Jump to content
 

Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Premium
18 minutes ago, NHY 581 said:

 

 

Here you go,  St E.

 

 

Ah, thanks Rob - so it was my ageing memory after all. That's what being another year older and deeper in debt than I was yesterday does for you.

  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
10 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

Very nice Captain. Please tell us, or remind us if you already have and I've forgotten, what is the provenance of the goods shed.

Rob has kindly provided you with the link. Yes, the goods shed, together with the matching small office building, were scratchbuilt by Paul Iliff a few years ago, for a model of Cadeleigh (Exe Valley line) that he had started at the time, but decided not to proceed with, due to a change to 7mm scale.

 

  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Good stuff CK. 

 

I must say those cobbles look an absolute treat. 

 

Seeing your 22 makes me wish I had picked up one when they were reduced.....

 

Rob

  • Thanks 1
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Splendid work CK. I do like the colour. It does look right.

 

I admire your application for a the task of consistently sized scribing. I get fed up with the task and it often goes wayward!

 

 

  • Agree 1
  • Thanks 1
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
On 28/06/2019 at 21:10, Asterix2012 said:

How did you do the cobbles?  They look really good

Hi Asterix,

 

The material for the cobbles is a layer of bog standard B&Q white tile grout, which is spread over the baseboard, a layer of PVA might help it to adhere, but I don't think it's vital to do this.

 

Once the tile grout has hardened off (smooth it as best you can while it's still wet), it will then need sanding to as smooth a finish as you can get. I use ordinary sandpaper for this, a fairly fine grain. This part can be messy, so a vacuum cleaner to take the dust away is helpful.

 

When the tile grout is smoothed off, mark pencil dots at 2mm intervals on both sides of the roadway to be scribed. Then draw a thin pencil line to join each dot up with that opposite.

 

Each pencil line across the roadway should then be scribed, with a steel pin held in a pin vice and using a metal straight edge. Keep removing the dust this generates, either blow it away (there's not so much as sandpapering) or use the vacuum cleaner.

 

You should then end up with a series of parallel, scribed lines at 2mm intervals across the roadway.

 

You can then begin to scribe the 'verticals' freehand, again using the pin in the pin vice. Each cobble (or granite sett) can be about 3mm long, but it's important to vary this slightly, to give a bit of variety.

 

There are photos further up this thread, showing some of the progress on 'Bethesda Sidings'.

 

  • Like 2
  • Informative/Useful 7
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
3 hours ago, Captain Kernow said:

For the last couple of days, I have mostly been sorting the yard crane for 'Bethesda Sidings' out, together with a small brick plinth for it to be mounted on. Photos to follow.

 

 

Would this be the Mikes Models GWR jobbie, CK? 

 

Rob 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

The yard crane is actually the very serviceable Wills plastic kit one. I have acquired another kit of a different pattern from a kind person on this forum, but that will now be used on a different project.

 

I built a small plinth from plasticard for the crane to sit on:

20190705_162510.jpg.19264e38bcfe47b6191494003527ffc4.jpg

 

I sprayed the finished crane and the plinth this afternoon with red oxide primer, as a precursor to further painting. The crane will be sprayed with a grey topcoat, yet to decide exactly which hue and the plinth will be brush painted:

20190705_183308.jpg.aaff61871a453e5f53e1327a07fbd836.jpg

 

I need to think about how to deal with the fuzzy nature of the 'rope' attached to the hook. I brush-painted dilute PVA on the bit hanging down from the jib, under tension, to ensure it remained more or less straight, but even that is still a bit to 'fuzzy' for my liking.

 

  • Like 9
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I used twisted fuse wire on Bleat 's crane CK. 

 

Despite several stern words, it will invariably dangle in an irregular fashion as demonstrated below. { still need to put the guard rails around the crane platform }

 

A nice chap recommended 'steel hawser' from Green scene as a suitable substitute.  If they are at Railwells, I shall be seeking them out. 

 

Rob. 

20190506_214111-02.jpeg

  • Like 8
  • Agree 1
  • Informative/Useful 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I've started the painstaking process of gradually de-fluffing the crane's 'rope' by careful use of a sharp scalpel and some tweezers. I have also got some of the remaining hairy bits to lie down flatter by applying some neat MekPak with a brush.

 

I am going to try, for now, to apply a little black enamel paint, let that dry and harden and then gradually and carefully sand it smoother. It does seem to be looking a bit better already after the start of that process, but I shall also seek out Greenscene, if they are at Wells!

 

  • Like 1
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I think Robs use of twisted fusewire is probably the best solution, I have used it to good effect on previous projects, even to the nerdy extent of creating a peg-board using pins and twisting it between them to get a final chain effect.

 

G

 

p.s. I've just had a rather nice Belgian Raspberry Beer !

 

Edited by bgman
  • Like 2
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I've just checked. It appears that Greenscene are not at Railwells. 

 

However, Black Lion Crossing is there, along with Farringdon.....

 

Whoop!, Whoop!!

 

 

  • Like 2
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
36 minutes ago, Re6/6 said:

Try running some 'thin' (liquid) cyano down the taut 'rope' or you could cheat and model the hook fixed/resting on or very close to the ground!

Add a load to the hook and some blokes discussing how best to load it - see Little Muddle's dairy scene for inspiration. 

  • Funny 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
7 hours ago, Re6/6 said:

Try running some 'thin' (liquid) cyano down the taut 'rope' or you could cheat and model the hook fixed/resting on or very close to the ground!

 In my case, it was intended that the hook would rest on the ground. However, due to being economical with the maths, this did not prove to be the case. 

 

 

Rob. 

  • Friendly/supportive 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
On 06/07/2019 at 08:30, Re6/6 said:

Try running some 'thin' (liquid) cyano down the taut 'rope' or you could cheat and model the hook fixed/resting on or very close to the ground!

I did that and ended up with a lumpy bit of so-called 'rope!'

 

I finally got tired of trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear this afternoon and replaced the cotton with a few strands of very thin electrical wire, wound round each other, attached to the crane, pulled taut and their shape retained by use of solder.

 

  • Like 1
  • Agree 1
  • Informative/Useful 1
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2
  • Funny 1
  • Friendly/supportive 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Captain Kernow said:

I did that and ended up with a lumpy bit of so-called 'rope!'

 

I finally got tired of trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear this afternoon and replaced the cotton with a few strands of very thin electrical wire, wound round each other, attached to the crane, pulled taut and their shape retained by use of solder.

 

 

There now, that wasn't too hard to do was it ! :clapping:

  • Like 1
  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Captain Kernow said:

I did that and ended up with a lumpy bit of so-called 'rope!'

 

I finally got tired of trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear this afternoon and replaced the cotton with a few strands of very thin electrical wire, wound round each other, attached to the crane, pulled taut and their shape retained by use of solder.

 

I cheated and rested the hook of my crane on the ground, I like the idea of twisted wire. Might try that in other places I need to model rope.

Steve.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
4 hours ago, Captain Kernow said:

I did that and ended up with a lumpy bit of so-called 'rope!'

 

I finally got tired of trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear this afternoon and replaced the cotton with a few strands of very thin electrical wire, wound round each other, attached to the crane, pulled taut and their shape retained by use of solder.

 

I only clicked "funny" to give you a full house of reactions...

  • Like 2
  • Funny 2
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...