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You might speed it up a bit if you spread your ballast or whatever, dry, and get it spread nice and level with a dry brush and lightly tapping the board. When it’s to your liking, go round with PVA diluted with about 2-3 times as much water and a little squirt of washing up liquid thoroughly mixed, and applying this with a cheap eye dropper from the chemists. Oh, and plug round any oversize wiring holes in the baseboard before you start or it runs through.

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1 hour ago, Stubby47 said:

 

How deep it the ballast? If the only glue you use is 'painted' on first, it doesn't sound very thick.

 

The correct question here is 'how deep are the sleepers?'

 

C&L sleepers are not very thick, so the ballast comes almost to the top of the sleepers, as per Engine Wood and Bleakhouse Road.

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1 hour ago, Northroader said:

You might speed it up a bit if you spread your ballast or whatever, dry, and get it spread nice and level with a dry brush and lightly tapping the board. When it’s to your liking, go round with PVA diluted with about 2-3 times as much water and a little squirt of washing up liquid thoroughly mixed, and applying this with a cheap eye dropper from the chemists. Oh, and plug round any oversize wiring holes in the baseboard before you start or it runs through.

That's how I ballasted 'Callow Lane', in fact, as I used P4 Track Co track, with scale depth sleepers. If anything, I found it took even longer!

 

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On 21/08/2019 at 21:35, Northroader said:

You might speed it up a bit if you spread your ballast or whatever, dry, and get it spread nice and level with a dry brush and lightly tapping the board. When it’s to your liking, go round with PVA diluted with about 2-3 times as much water and a little squirt of washing up liquid thoroughly mixed, and applying this with a cheap eye dropper from the chemists. Oh, and plug round any oversize wiring holes in the baseboard before you start or it runs through.

Thanks for the comment, Northroader, meant to respond before.

 

The reason I use the paint brush method to apply the PVA directly to the baseboard surface is that it gives me far more control over where the ballast ends up. Also, with the thinner depth of the C&L sleepers, this method does work better (for me) than putting the ballast on dry and then applying dilute glue, as you have suggested above.

 

I have used a method similar to what you suggest on my P4 layout 'Callow Lane', where the sleepers are full depth (in that case I initially secured the ballast in place with Johnson's Klear and then droppered dilulte PVA plus a bit of washing up liquid on top of that (once the Klear was dry). The reason for the second method of gluing was because I found that the ballast secured with Klear on it's own tended to be a bit brittle, but with the dilute PVA added, it is now nice and solid.

 

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Thanks for the comments, Tim, I agree that dilute PVA does give a much firmer hold on the ballast and track. Then it’s just wether the PVA spread on the board will rise up through the ballast sufficiently to give an even penetration, which, as you say, depends on sleeper thickness. It does look good now it’s down, and I do like those paving setts.

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1 hour ago, Captain Kernow said:

Thanks for the comment, Northroader, meant to respond before.

 

The reason I use the paint brush method to apply the PVA directly to the baseboard surface is that it gives me far more control over where the ballast ends up. Also, with the thinner depth of the C&L sleepers, this method does work better (for me) than putting the ballast on dry and then applying dilute glue, as you have suggested above.

 

I have used a method similar to what you suggest on my P4 layout 'Callow Lane', where the sleepers are full depth (in that case I initially secured the ballast in place with Johnson's Klear and then droppered dilulte PVA plus a bit of washing up liquid on top of that (once the Klear was dry). The reason for the second method of gluing was because I found that the ballast secured with Klear on it's own tended to be a bit brittle, but with the dilute PVA added, it is now nice and solid.

 

 

I used the same method for the C&L shallow sleeper track. Using traditional pva just didn't seem to work as the ballast ended up everywhere. It takes longer, but i to like the additional control of painting in between the sleepers.

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55 minutes ago, Brinkly said:

Lovely work CK: the back scene is brilliant. I definitely need to go down the photographic route on my layouts. 

 

Best wishes,


Nick

 

 

I am/had considered it for Balcombe but for the lengths needed the cost would probably be prohibitive! 

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44 minutes ago, Captain Kernow said:

2538 from Oswestry shed has just worked a short goods to Bethesda Sidings from Leominster, having called en-route at Kington and New Radnor:

20191009_161156.jpg.1d1a6c0d3d57b525e2a424496711f284.jpg

 

20191009_161137.jpg.3ed520087e2984a7ca2c29231672fd85.jpg

 

 

 

20190815_063251.png

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1 hour ago, Pteremy said:

Is that Hergest Ridge on the back scene?

 

 

Ah yes! Dear Hergest. Now alas, his many post war discoveries have been forgotten. 

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