RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted August 11, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 11, 2018 Further wiring activity on this rainy afternoon has seen both points within the tandem turnout operable from the control panel. Here is a temporary arrangement for testing: 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted August 11, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 11, 2018 Great! I look forward to seeing this come to light in due course...... Well, I'll have to build something for the 7mm stuff to run on, they don't fit on my existing layouts: 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
south_tyne Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 Well, I'll have to build something for the 7mm stuff to run on, they don't fit on my existing layouts: blogentry-57-0-60496100-1471181604.jpg I can see the problem In the words of Father Ted.... OK, one last time. These are small… but the ones out there are far away. Small… far away… Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted August 13, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 13, 2018 All points now wired up and connected to the control panel. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted August 13, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 13, 2018 All points now wired up and connected to the control panel. But are the correct points connected to the appropriate parts of the panel ? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted August 14, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 14, 2018 But are the correct points connected to the appropriate parts of the panel ? Yes they are and apart from a brief kerfuffle with the DC polarity on the main track feeds, the tandem turnout is now fully wired up and I had a pannier running over it yesterday. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted August 14, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 14, 2018 Setts.. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted August 16, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 16, 2018 Almost there with the wiring now, apart from making it look tidy, of course: 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted August 17, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 17, 2018 The whole layout from the tandem turnout is now wired and fully operational. The next task will be to lay the single line across the board joint and into the fiddle yard, complete the associated wiring and ensure the track height is correct to match the cassettes with aluminium angle. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted August 17, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 17, 2018 The layout has now been re-configured with the fiddle yard, to enable the short piece of straight track from the tandem turnout into the fiddle yard to be laid. This will need to link up to my existing aluminium cassettes. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted August 18, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 18, 2018 (edited) I've now started to lay the track across the board join between the main scenic board and the fiddle yard. This will incorporate reinforced arrangements using two copper clad sleepers on each side, plus some copper-clad paxolin where the track meets the aluminium angle track on the cassettes. It is only a short section of track. This is what it looks like with the section of track cut to length but without the various C&L sleepers removed, to make way for the copper-clad sections: Next, some spaces were cut out of the cork underlay, which is approx 1mm thick, to allow for some rather more solid plasticard to be epoxied in place: Some plasticard (40 thou at the board join and 60 thou at the interface with the cassettes) was cut to shape and placed in the gaps: The copper-clad was then placed on top of the plasticard. The holes are of 0.7mm, which will allow cut-down Peco track pins to be added, for additional strength: Next, some of the plastic C&L sleepers were removed and the section of track put back in place: Having established that the piece of track fitted OK and that the right number of plastic sleepers had been removed, the piece of track was removed and the plasticard was then epoxied into place. A little while later, I then glued the sleepers onto the plasticard, had some lunch and then came back after lunch and pinned the copper-clad down. One tip here, learned a few years ago the hard way, is to gap the copperclad on the underside as well as the top surface (assuming it's double-sided copper-clad), as otherwise the insulation on the track pins can wear away and induce a short circuit. Edited August 18, 2018 by Captain Kernow 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted August 18, 2018 Share Posted August 18, 2018 Very neat and tidy work CK, coming along nice and steady. G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted August 18, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 18, 2018 The section of track has now been glued and soldered in position. When the glue has fully gone off, I will disc cut the rail across the join and wire up a connection from the fiddle yard to the main board. I will also need to complete a 'docking station' for the aluminium angle cassettes. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted August 20, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 20, 2018 I spent a satisfactory afternoon tweaking 'Bethesda Sidings', now that all the track is laid and the layout is fully wired up and operational. A couple of snags on two of the points were attended to and several locos tested on the layout. Predictably, the Dapol B4 (on loan from BR to the Vale of Radnor Light Railway) ran superbly, it's one of the best running RTR locos I've ever had. Pleasingly, the Dean Goods ran well and will now be weathered and put into service, in due course. Both my Mainline/Bachmann panniers have been tested before and also pleasingly, my Bachmann 64XX, that is to be converted to a 74XX, has also turned out to be a rather sweet and controllable runner, after having had quite a lot of running-in. Ex-LNER J72 'Jennifer', who's refurbishment featured in some of my blog posts a few months ago, needed some of her pick-ups tweaking, but is now running nicely again. I may yet fit a flywheel in her, there's plenty of room. While all this was going on, the loco that was supposed to be one of the key performers - the Hattons/DJM 14XX - was having some further running-in on the rolling road. To my surprise, it's almost good enough and controllable enough at slow speed, to be considered for the role I had originally envisaged for it - as 1420, working the Prestigne and Kington goods, now extended to Bethesda yard. I think I'll need to tweak the pick-ups, as that seems to be a slight concern, but I'm hoping that I won't have to rip the innards our and substitute an etched chassis. I may now be able to use that chassis kit on the spare Airfix body that I have. The one loco that failed testing (which I knew it would), was my 22XX. This is because the tender wheels that I fitted several years ago, to replace the old Mainline ones, are running in the original Mainline axleboxes. This doesn't give enough lateral movement of the axles when passing over one of the points and it derails. What is needed is a replacement etched tender chassis kit, which will provide a little more flexibility. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted August 21, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 21, 2018 Here's a photo showing one of the smaller loco cassettes, temporarily lined up with the track into the fiddle yard, the other day. The 'docking station' bits of aluminium angle have since been glued and bolted in position: 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted August 21, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 21, 2018 Well, I've now finished cutting all the plastic webbing from between the sleepers: With this thin-sleepered C&L track, once the track has been painted and weathered, I normally apply the ballast by painting between 4 or 5 sleeper bays at a time with PVA and then sprinkling the ballast on, and vacuuming up the loose stuff when the glue is dry. I've always thought that the plastic webbing just gets in the way, so I normally remove it prior to track painting and ballasting. It's not a job you can really do prior to gluing the track down, though, as the webbing is pretty much essential for maintaining the sleeper spacing etc. Meanwhile, the 1420-to-be is getting some more hours in on the rolling road: 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 Coming on nicely Tim, I like it. However (there's always a 'however' isn't there!), if your cork is 3mm or an eighth inch thick, then this equates to approx. 120 thou so I'm a bit surprised that you have only used 40thou plasticard under the copper clad sleepers at the baseboard joint and 60 thou at the cassettes. There must have been quite a gap between the underside of the rail and the copper so have you just filled this with solder? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted August 21, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 21, 2018 Coming on nicely Tim, I like it. However (there's always a 'however' isn't there!), if your cork is 3mm or an eighth inch thick, then this equates to approx. 120 thou so I'm a bit surprised that you have only used 40thou plasticard under the copper clad sleepers at the baseboard joint and 60 thou at the cassettes. There must have been quite a gap between the underside of the rail and the copper so have you just filled this with solder? There are also slivers of brass shim there, Paul. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 There are also slivers of brass shim there, Paul. Ah, OK, I understand now. Good thinking Captain! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted August 21, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 21, 2018 Well, I've finally run out of patience with the Hattons 14XX mechanism. After further running in this afternoon, it actually ran worse than it did before, just like the first example I had from them, before I sent it back and got this one. Enough is enough. As I've posted on the Hattons 14XX thread, in due course I shall remove the Hattons chassis and all the permanently-fixed internal workings, leaving the lovely body shell only. I shall then build and fit the Perseverence chassis kit that I have and consign the Hattons/DJM mechanism to the place it belongs - the skip. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 Well, I've finally run out of patience with the Hattons 14XX mechanism. After further running in this afternoon, it actually ran worse than it did before, just like the first example I had from them, before I sent it back and got this one. Enough is enough. As I've posted on the Hattons 14XX thread, in due course I shall remove the Hattons chassis and all the permanently-fixed internal workings, leaving the lovely body shell only. I shall then build and fit the Perseverence chassis kit that I have and consign the Hattons/DJM mechanism to the place it belongs - the skip. Any chance of a picture of the 14xx's inards please? Gordon A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted August 21, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 21, 2018 Any chance of a picture of the 14xx's inards please? Gordon A I'll take some when I dismantle mine, but Paul Marshall-Potter and Larry Goddard have posted some over on the main Hattons 14XX thread, Gordon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 Well, I've finally run out of patience with the Hattons 14XX mechanism. After further running in this afternoon, it actually ran worse than it did before, just like the first example I had from them, before I sent it back and got this one. Enough is enough. As I've posted on the Hattons 14XX thread, in due course I shall remove the Hattons chassis and all the permanently-fixed internal workings, leaving the lovely body shell only. I shall then build and fit the Perseverence chassis kit that I have and consign the Hattons/DJM mechanism to the place it belongs - the skip. Brings this to mind ....... Of good money that is ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted August 23, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 23, 2018 I've now cut the foundations for the goods shed out of the cork underlay. This involved positioning the goods shed (built by Paul Iliff a few years ago) very precisely and testing some locos and rolling stock into the shed itself. Once I was happy with the positioning, I marked all around the base of the walls and cut the cork underlay away: The goods shed was then test fitted: I've also added a second set of check rails at the end of the goods shed siding, where the access road will cross two lines to get to the goods shed. These short sections of in-laid track will feature setts, scribed on tile grout: 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerner Posted August 23, 2018 Share Posted August 23, 2018 Sorry to hear about your travails with the 14xx Tim, I'm glad I went to the early diesel era with my small layout. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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