F-UnitMad Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 (edited) Always interested in a few Atlas 70- & 100ton Roller Bearing trucks myself - gotta love those rotating bearing caps!! Plus the price of new ones from the US skyrocketed a few months ago!! Edited May 12, 2017 by F-UnitMad Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAMO Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 Jason, can you show us the parts and stuff you have in stock and prices on this forum please? I think you'll find enthusiasts! Thank you Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted May 12, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 12, 2017 Very long time ago, I rummaged a brass hood for a diesel out of Jason's lucky dip collection. (£1) Looking at drawings it looks like it's off an old kit for a GP7 Noah was building. Contemporaneous (thank you, spell checker) with the CLW stuff I've been going on about. If you get a detailed list of all his bits and pieces it will be very long. Dug the said hood out recently, and sized it up against an Atlas Plymouth diesel.... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasond Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 Jason, can you show us the parts and stuff you have in stock and prices on this forum please? I think you'll find enthusiasts! Thank you I'm not sure I'm allowed to show prices, etc on this forum, but I'm not doing this as a business any more so .... And if I end up with leftover money I have 2 diesel kit masters I ought to dust off, an MLW M420 that Russ Briggs created and a Whitcomb 20-ton 0-4-0 (needs one piece of the etch changed) - any other nutters craftsmen out there? The ZWT trucks on the M420 are lovely OK Jacky - pictures of the stuff, eh? How about the Winchester Meet this year (October)? Quite near France. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasond Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 Very long time ago, I rummaged a brass hood for a diesel out of Jason's lucky dip collection. (£1) Looking at drawings it looks like it's off an old kit for a GP7 Noah was building. Contemporaneous (thank you, spell checker) with the CLW stuff I've been going on about. If you get a detailed list of all his bits and pieces it will be very long. Dug the said hood out recently, and sized it up against an Atlas Plymouth diesel.... As you well know, Noah had 2 of everything on the Ark, so 2 x GP7s! Point me at where you were talking about CLW stuff, when I was working with Mike Calvert with the Gilmaur kits (we used CLW and later Weaver gearboxes, ec), we had the odd failure with folding long hoods up, etc and they're still in the Can't-Throw-This-Away box. Should I transfer a couple to the 'lucky dip collection' for TVNAM? Jason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 I'm not sure I'm allowed to show prices, etc on this forum, but I'm not doing this as a business any more so .... Don't show prices then ...if we like something you list, we can discuss it via PM. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAMO Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 I'm not sure I'm allowed to show prices, etc on this forum, but I'm not doing this as a business any more so .... And if I end up with leftover money I have 2 diesel kit masters I ought to dust off, an MLW M420 that Russ Briggs created and a Whitcomb 20-ton 0-4-0 (needs one piece of the etch changed) - any other nutters craftsmen out there? The ZWT trucks on the M420 are lovely OK Jacky - pictures of the stuff, eh? How about the Winchester Meet this year (October)? Quite near France. Can you send us a listing by MP please? I know Winchester meet. I went to Winchester and to Southampton there is a long time ago. That's far from my home: near 300 miles and the Channel to cross X2. It's too much for a day. I did this when I was younger. For me it's cheaper to pay the shipment to France. Sorry. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted May 12, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 12, 2017 The CLW stuff was the epic on PAs that's been going on on my Englefield thread, which you drop in on and give valued contribution to. At present I'm running three superstructures and two chassis, so you can see where I'm going. I'm hoping to try for the Armitage do, otherwise Winchester, catch up sooner or later and have a rummage. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielB Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 (edited) Sorry for the lack of updates to this thread, I've been working on my HO layout so I've not had the time to post my latest work on my O scale projects. I've progressed the 50' boxcar some more; fitting the door runners, adding definition to the roof and starting work on the ladders. I've also developed the underframe, though that's not yet finished - it needs air tanks and other details. What I have done is start working on some pallets and oil drums to add to the inside to simulate a load. A lot more work to do there too. Finally, I started work on a Quality Craft Models kit of a bulkhead flat car. Having never built a freight car kit before, I'm really impressed with these wooden craftsman kits, and I'm enjoying the build so far. More to come as work progresses. Edited May 17, 2017 by DanielB 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielB Posted May 18, 2017 Author Share Posted May 18, 2017 Not much of an update today, however I have both a progress report and a bit of news. Progress report first... I've spent some time working on the QCM Bulkhead flat kit - now it's actually starting to look like a freight car now! After I took these photos, I've added some Kadee couplers to the car, and permanently attached the trucks. Hopefully there'll be some updated pictures later this weekend. Now, thanks to Neil at The Little Layout Company, I've traded a Kato, HO scale U-boat which is surplus to requirements, for 5 freight car kits of various parentage: They might be bordering on the old considering the layout will be set in the 70's, but I'm thinking of Shortline patching them and seeing what happens. At least one is getting turned into a B&A style woodchip hopper. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAMO Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 Nice cars! But too old for the 70's. The letterings have to be modified. If you don't want them I can exchange yours against some of mine who are too recent for me but ok for you... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tove Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 Nice cars! But too old for the 70's. The letterings have to be modified. Jamo/Daniel, A good way to see if you can use a car in the 70`s is to look for ACI labels in photo`s https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KarTrak and if`s it`s a clear enough photo then the re-pak dates (when the car last shopped for repairs/up-grades) will also be a good indicator.... NYC jade green 40ft....early to mid 70`s? http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/nyc/nyc87185awb.jpg And as for your two intermountain boxcars,if your modeling the southern in the 70`s then how about a couple of their home made wood chip hoppers?. http://southern.railfan.net/images/archive/southern/freight/wood/22943.jpg This one has 5/5W ends,but they did rebuild quite a few older cars with 5/4W ends as well,(pic below) http://southern.railfan.net/images/archive/southern/freight/wood/cofg20122.jpg There`s also a nice picture in the Morning sun book Colour guide to southern freight/passenger equipment of a converted boxcar and that`s in the 13xxxx series. And the hopper car could be turned into a Southern -- Central of Georgia lettered car with these decals from high ball.Just need to alter the end ribs on the side`s for a closer match!. http://highballgraphics.com/IMO-103.htm As for the BAR car...that`s anyones guess if that livery is right for it. Brian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielB Posted May 22, 2017 Author Share Posted May 22, 2017 Thanks Brian. I've actually pinned the layout down earlier now. I was going for the 1970's as I've got a GP35 coming from Nick Palette, but looking at timescales, they are delivered to the Southern in 1963-1964, so I figure if I set the layout in 1965, I could still use my green Weaver RS3 without having to repaint it into black tuxedo, and I could still have a big mix of mostly 40' cars. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAMO Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 Sorry for my stupid idea of exchanging our cars Daniel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted May 22, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 22, 2017 If you look next to the "LT WT" figure you get an idea of when the car is dated to. This is the 'light weight' in pounds for the car, what we'd call the tare. After every major shopping or repair, the car needs to be weighed light on the weighbridge, so it gets updated say every three years or so. (My experience is British, I'm assuming it was a similar period in America) you'll see on the B&M car there's a letter code for a shops doing the weigh and a date, month/year. Normally you'd see the figures and code have been painted out in slightly different paint and overpainted with a new weight figure. The other cars just have "new" and a date, so the car hasn't been reweighed since built. The date should also match the "BLT" date, which is just a record of when the car was built, and remains the same through the cars life. If you want to be picky, you should set a date for your line, and all the cars "LT WT" dates should go back in the range of no more than three years previously, if needs be making up a depot code and date to fit. The NYC jade green car is a slightly later job than the rest. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAMO Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 If you look next to the "LT WT" figure you get an idea of when the car is dated to. This is the 'light weight' in pounds for the car, what we'd call the tare. After every major shopping or repair, the car needs to be weighed light on the weighbridge, so it gets updated say every three years or so. (My experience is British, I'm assuming it was a similar period in America) you'll see on the B&M car there's a letter code for a shops doing the weigh and a date, month/year. Normally you'd see the figures and code have been painted out in slightly different paint and overpainted with a new weight figure. The other cars just have "new" and a date, so the car hasn't been reweighed since built. The date should also match the "BLT" date, which is just a record of when the car was built, and remains the same through the cars life. If you want to be picky, you should set a date for your line, and all the cars "LT WT" dates should go back in the range of no more than three years previously, if needs be making up a depot code and date to fit. The NYC jade green car is a slightly later job than the rest. That's interesting to know! Thanks to share! That's a good idea to modify the LT WT on some of my O scale cars depending of the BLT date. Great! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted May 22, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 22, 2017 Here's a couple of examples. The first car was built in 1947, but the LT WT shows a weigh date for 1971 in Reading (RDG) shops. The second car is just to show the shops didn't bother too much about doing a paint match when painting out the old date, in this case a green car with red overpaint. You'll notice in this case that the painting out has been extended up to change the LD LMT and CAPY, (load limit and capacity). If LT WT is added to LD LMT, you get the rated load for the axle/ bearing design, so in this case it looks as if the wheel sets have been changed during repairs to something with a different rating. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielB Posted May 22, 2017 Author Share Posted May 22, 2017 And this is why I love this forum. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted June 4, 2017 Share Posted June 4, 2017 (edited) Daniel, being as how you borrowed/modified my plan, I've nicked it back for my current layout in HO - I trust you and Ford will forgive me! - My version may well remain as "West Box Street"- I tried yet another plan today and wound up dis-satisfied(AGAIN!), so laid out yours, and at least it looks sensible/workable. Edited June 4, 2017 by shortliner 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielB Posted June 4, 2017 Author Share Posted June 4, 2017 Hey Jack, it's your plan pal, we just had a go at tweaking it a bit! I'd be very interested to see your take on it, sir! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielB Posted June 4, 2017 Author Share Posted June 4, 2017 Progress on Piedmont Blues has stalled temporarily, but the layout was always intended to be a slow burner, so we can get it 100% bulletproof from the get go. I'm currently awaiting arrival of a new 3D printer, so I'm going to be spending my time experimenting on printing detail parts, truck sideframes, etc. I found a free download to 3D print an EMD SW1500 on GrabCad that I am going to have a go at. I've got a couple of old diesel trucks that could provide the wheels, then it'd just need motorising and away we go. Lots of cool things on the horizon, for sure. If I can 3D print my own window frames, I'll be doing that too. The possibilities this opens up for us is simply massive. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielB Posted June 5, 2017 Author Share Posted June 5, 2017 I realised today that I've not actually posted here a build I've been working on for the layout. I wanted to see what I could do with a small Clevermodels kit - in this case the Brick Garage with Loft - and changing it into something totally different. The idea is to use Clevermodels textures for the brickwork, and the roof, which will be sheet metal. The rest will be made from card and wood. At least, that's the plan. We'll see how it eventually turns out at the end! I'm not sure what industry this could be, though I doubt it will be a rail served structure. The layout is set in 1965 - any suggestions on what it could be would be most appreciated. The idea is that the original garage structure has been built on top of, the roof removed and a new, flat work area with an enclosed staircase up to both it, and the timber and clapboard tower structure. The intent was to build the structure in the way it would have actually have been built in "reality". So, the garage structure took centre stage at the beginning of the build. On top of that, I've added timber cross beams, and built upwards from there. This is as far as I've gotten to date: I'll post further progress photos as and how it goes. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielB Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 Yesterday's progress on the garage/tower building. Today I'm going to be building a few boxcar kits, so I'm not sure if I'll get any more progress done on the structure for a little while. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielB Posted June 8, 2017 Author Share Posted June 8, 2017 Today, I've been working on a Weaver kit of a NYC 40ft boxcar I got from Neil at The Little Layout Company. First up, some prototype photos of similar boxcars I'm using for inspiration: http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=1711787 http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=2385901 Now, here's what I started with: After assembling the kit, I gave it a blast of dulcote equivalent, then faded the car with a wash of watered down acrylic paint - a mix that was slightly whiter than the stock NYC Century Green scheme. Once this was dry the car got another blast of dulcote - in fact, it gets one after every layer of work is finished. I then added a wash of brown in places to give a base layer for the weathering. After this, the dirt was built up using various blends of black, brown, orange and red pastel powders. Once I was happy with the result, I sealed it with dulcote, then gave the whole car side a application of white pastel powder to tone the whole car down. Next, scratches and dings were added using brown acrylic paint, working as always from the prototype photographs.. Finally, for now, the scratches were all haloed using burnt sienna oil paint in a very light application. After this, rust streaks were added in a similar manner. Dab on a little paint at the main point of concentration on the real car, then repeatedly drag the paint down the car side to create streaks. Next comes the roof and car ends, which I will document in stages as I have done here so far. 5 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielB Posted June 8, 2017 Author Share Posted June 8, 2017 (edited) This morning I took a photo in natural light to give a better idea of the colour balance. Edited June 8, 2017 by DanielB 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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