Jump to content

Kevin M

Bemo display Layout

Recommended Posts

Thank you for the offer but I have the Sommerfeldt instructions on order. I agree that moving catenary does look nice. Maybe if I build another layout.

 

My trains will be a bit mixed up. The set I have has Rhb, FO and BVZ passenger wagons in it.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a question about catenary.  I am not sure where or if I should use a Mast for pull-offs on my track plan.  I have the  new Sommerfeldt instruction book and the answer is probably right in front of me but I am missing it.

 

Thanks,

Kevin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The RhB use them quite a bit on sharp curves, go to google street view and have a look at the Landwasser Viaduct which just has pull ofs. I guess they are a fair bit cheaper and where their linespeed / spacing of masts mean a full mast isn't needed to govern the height.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Next question. What lengths Overhead wire should I be using. Most of my curves are tight so I know I will have to keep those to 180mm. Or do I used longer wire and pull-offs in between mainline masts? (Pull-off masts are cheaper.) Do I use the same lengths on all my curves for use longer wire where possible? How about straight track? For this layout I will not be using multiple track catenary. I want to keep this as simple as possible.

 

Thanks,

Kevin

Edited by Kevin M

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

See page 36 items 140-147 (180-360mm), recommended for HOm.

https://www.sommerfeldt.de/images/download/sommerfeldt-katalog.pdf

I bought a selection after roughly laying out where the masts would go and then customised them to fit.

Start at the station then work away from it ;) I'd ascertained I could use the full width of the track with the RhB pantographs so I drew a line across the track at 90° then used a rule to measure the next one to the nearest section available. You could mark the lengths on a steel rule then just keep the straight edge inside both rails but do mark the next mast with a line at 90 so your measurements don't slip out.

 

Basically I cut the formed ends off their sections so I could vary the lengths +\- 10-15mm meaning the exact placements weren't so critical. I then curved the end of the lower contact wire at the post so there were no ends to snag.

Where possible use long lengths with pull offs on gentler curves but they do seem to use full masts on some sharp ones, I guess for stability. Note the RhB used the mast with a curved end to the arm, 381, a fair bit on the inside of corners so either the view wasn't compromised or where there wasn't enough ground to anchor the mast.

Edited by PaulRhB

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've mocked up how I did it.

post-6968-0-24662600-1505909861_thumb.jpg

 

post-6968-0-41941000-1505909928_thumb.jpg

 

So I wrote down what I needed but don't forget the overlap of the wires ;)

post-6968-0-20518700-1505909946_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you Paul.  I am slowly putting together a list of items I need to order.  I want to try to get everything I need in one order.  Hopefully the store I order from has it all in stock.  Should I also order some Contact wire such as item 119? 

 

I have been watching a lot of Youtube cab ride videos trying to get a better idea how catenary is placed.  I wish they would pan up at tunnel portals so I can see how the support wire is attached.

 

Kevin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You could at crossings on points but most seems to have the carrier wire too so I used the normal catenary pieces inserted through the first wire on their side then turned upright and anchored the end either to an existing mast, gantry or a separate pull off mast.

 

Again Google streetview of the RhB is your friend for catenary as you can study the arrangements in a fair amount of detail, as an example here is the west tunnel entrance of the Landwasser Tunnel with it's catenary fixing.

 

Image belongs to google used here to show the opportunities ;) , just drop the little yellow man at the rough point on the track, station or viaduct etc and then you can move around and look up. Much easier than the cab ride dvd's I had to use to figure it out.

post-6968-0-29038200-1505936786_thumb.jpg

Edited by PaulRhB
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the photo.  I have a very slow high speed internet so google street view can be very slow for me.  Most of the time its slow enough that I download videos at night while I'm asleep so I can watch them latter without the constant buffering.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Kevin,

 

There was always a saying that there is a prototype for everything. There is even a prototype for using a solid rail for the catenary instead of overhead wires - On the new tunnel into Samedan from St.Moritz. It's also used in the first tunnel below Bergün. The RhB appear to be installing it in the new tunnels and when they complete refurbishment of existing ones.

 

IMG 20170819 151152

 

I've uploaded some catenary photos to the site if they are of use to you.

 

 

Andrew

Edited by akirkby

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I guess its about time I update this topic a bit.

 

Andrew, thank you for the photos.

 

Since my last post I was talked into taking my unfinished layout to our local train show/swap meet October 14-15 .  With less than two weeks to get ready I had to do some very quick scenery work.  None of the scenery is complete.  The trees are temporary, the two stone bridges are set in temporarily and of course the cardboard viaduct is temporary until I carve a stone one.  Construction is on hold now while I wait for the rest of my catenary order plus it is getting to cold in the garage to work.  The skirting is recycled from a portable HOn3 layout that I built almost 40 years ago.

 

The weekend went great.   The only problem I had was the track cleaning fluid I use (CRC 2-26) leaves a bit of lubrication on the rail.  It was not a problem until I tried to add more passenger wagons to the train and the drivers started to slip.  Next time I'll use something non lubricating to clean the rail.

 

There was also a group of guys from the Pacific Northwest chapter of the ETE with a Marklin layout next to me.

 

post-31644-0-49335600-1509128170.jpg

 

post-31644-0-58957400-1509128171.jpg

 

I was lucky enough to purchase the ABe 4/4 and three passenger wagons from a gentleman that was thinning out is trains. 

 

post-31644-0-27497300-1509128340.jpg

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks great. You are aware however the Bernina set you bought is from an earlier era? (1940/50's IIRC) Doesn't look out-of-place though ;) :no:

Thank you and yes I was aware of that. I am not one to stick to any era and tend to go with what catches my eye. Plus my wife likes it. Can't argue with that. :-)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm still puttering away at my little layout.  I am installing overheard wire now.  It has been a new learning experience for me.  It is probably a good thing that I was not planning on running with the pantographs up.

 

Question:  I want to paint the wire but am unsure what color it should be.  From photos it appears to be a dark grey or black.  Opinions please! 

 

Thank you,

Kevin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I went for dark grey with a bit of green mixed in to represent copper oxidisation.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I went for dark grey with a bit of green mixed in to represent copper oxidisation.

Me too - except mine is ready mixed and described on the German label as "Moos"... However you might want to experiment with how light or dark it is depending on the background - what looks good against open scenery can be invisible against a rock wall which sort of defeats the purpose..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I mixed some paint to get a dark grey.  I won't know for sure how it will look until I get the layout into a room with better lighting.  I have the layout in a spare bedroom for the winter so I can work with some heat.  It does not have the best lighting though.  Sometime in the next week or so I'll have a friend help me move it into my garage/shop where I have much better lighting.  I am trying to get it ready for our local train show next month. 

 

A few lessons I have learned building my first layout with catenary:

 

    Make the baseboard a little bit wider to accommodate the mast mounting.  I had to cut some scenery out so I could add some wood pieces to mount the mast to.

 

    Don't space the masts out to far on curves.  If I had wanted to run with the pantographs up I would probably have some problems.

 

    Have all masts located (but not installed permanently) before starting scenery.  Its really hard to get static grass close to the masts.  Plus I used foam board for the scenery contours and I had to carve out underneath to get the nuts on the mast stud.

 

    Paint the overhead wire before mounting.  (except the very ends that will be soldered)  I had 3/4 for the wire installed before I thought of that.

 

When I started this I did not plan on having overhead wire.  I was just going to mount some wooden poles around the track to represent catenary.  Maybe mount a horizontal arm and string a single wire.  That plan didn't last long.

 

Here is a quick cell phone picture.  It gives you an idea of the poor lighting I am dealing with.  I still have a lot of scenic material to add and the trees of course.  I see I need to lighten the tunnel portal to closer match the color of the viaduct.

 

Kevin

 

post-31644-0-24046300-1521859982_thumb.jpg

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Isn't catenary fun ;)

It has caused more of what little hair I have left to fall out. I should have started with a simple loop to experiment with. Although overall I am pleased with this layout.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I managed to get my layout presentable in time for our local train show.  It still lacks more details but I will add them in the next few months until our next show.  It will probably never be as detailed as well as those I've seen from the UK and Europe.  That is beyond my abilities.  I was surprised at how well it was received.  The youngsters really liked it.  They were excited to see which tunnel the train would appear from next.  The lower loop kept them guessing. 

 

 

post-31644-0-69674700-1523241751.jpg

post-31644-0-53963200-1523241764.jpg

post-31644-0-42417100-1523241784.jpg

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

More photos at the train show.

I have found that it is very easy to overdo it when applying static grass.  I need to get some cows and sheep to eat some of it down.  :)

 

post-31644-0-57707700-1523241955.jpg

post-31644-0-94937600-1523241968.jpg

post-31644-0-45804000-1523241982.jpg

post-31644-0-25546700-1523242002.jpg

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well it looks like the RhB to me :) Very nice indeed. Detailing can go on for years there were still things to do when I scrapped mine ;)

Lots of nice opportunities for close up pictures where you'd never guess it's relatively small :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, I have just bought some Bemo HOm stock and am now building a small RhB/FO layout.I don't have a lot of space for an oval type scheme so I'm building a simple station set in the mid 1980's (3 tracks on loops with 1 or 2 sidings) on 12" wide baseboards with turntable fiddle yards at either end. Trains are limited to 3 foot long = loco plus 8 wagons or 3 coaches. (very British Finescale layout approach!)

 

As I have never built a Swiss layout or used catenary before I'm finding your exchange of experiences really useful. Very Inspiring layouts by the way.

I picked up 4 x Sommerfeldt 380 masts on eBay so I have made a start. The Sommerfeldt website shows a more modern type of RhB mast. Not sure whether to go for 0.7mm or 0.5mm O/H wires. I will be ordering the Sommerfeldt catalogue and the instruction book later this month.

 

I can see from your postings that I need to set the catenary post centres 29mm from track centre but how high is the pick up wire above the rail head please?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used the 0.7mm wire for durability as my layout was in sections, for a fixed home layout where you can tension it properly I'd go for the 0.5mm. Sorry can't remember the exact height of the contact wire but the lower arm was angled very slightly down so it couldn't snag on the pantographs as they passed the mast. Kevin should be able to help as his looks good and it still exists unlike mine ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.