Jump to content
 

Soldering help required


Recommended Posts

Morning all

 

Out of curiosity, and if I asked really nicely, is there anyone in the Cheltenham area who would be able to spare a couple of hours over a weekend to teach a lemon how to solder? reading about it n watching YouTube videos doesn't help in the slightest, I learn much better with practical work!

 

Tea and biscuits can be provided :-)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Would love to help but unfortunately I am in wales. I hope you find someone to help.

 

But what I will suggest is you get some scrap brass,solder and flux and give it a go. I use a 40w antex iron, liquid and paste flux, and tin lead solder. Seems to work ok for me. As they say practice makes perfect!!

 

Good luck Steve

Link to post
Share on other sites

That's a good point actually, it's kits that I'm looking to start with :-) n I have tried to do it on my own, I just seen to end up with 2 separate bits of metal n a blob of solder on one of them...

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

That's a good point actually, it's kits that I'm looking to start with :-) n I have tried to do it on my own, I just seen to end up with 2 separate bits of metal n a blob of solder on one of them...

Hi

 

Are you using a separate liquid flux. I could never manage to solder brass kits until I discovered flux then it was very easy and straightforward.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

Link to post
Share on other sites

A 40W iron at least, and pay a few bob, don't get the cheapest. (The best thing is to get a 50W soldering station with adjustable tip temp.)  Gaugemaster and DCC Concepts do soldering supplies.  I use a non acid flux these days (the phosphoric acid type rots bits and gets up my nose) and I've just ordered solder from DCC concepts (I've used Carrs almost exclusively in the past).  A couple of fiberglass pens are useful for cleaning the work before and after soldering.  I cut a tiny amount of solder off the solder and pick that up with the iron.  This helps control the amount going on.

 

Everyone seems to have their own ideas about the topic.

John

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree with Bossard when soldering anything brass nickel or white metal cleanliness is next to godliness.

D5541 if you end up with a blob of solder either the work pieces are not clean, there is not enough heat from the iron or not enough flux to allow the solder to flow.

Good luck and keep trying

Steve

 

P.S I forgot to say don't rely solely on the flux in cored solder.

Edited by stevejjjexcov
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

 

P.S I forgot to say don't rely solely on the flux in cored solder.

Except when soldering electronic parts to printed circuit boards. Nothing else should be needed, just make sure surfaces are clean.

Link to post
Share on other sites

What about joining a local club? There will be someone there to offer advice and help. Your options are Gloucester Model Railway Club or Cheltenham GWR Modellers Group. Or if you are into P4, the Glevum Group of the Scalefour Society.

Link to post
Share on other sites

When I first started attempting to solder I really struggled despite following all the advice. Iron hot enough for the job, correct solder, clean the parts etc....Turned out that I had not got the parts clamped together tight  enough. Use small wooden clothes pegs, wooden blocks in the vice  or blu tack, but the tighter the gap between the parts you are trying to join the better the solder will flow. It was Phil at Hobby Holidays who pointed out to me that "solder loves small gaps".... Phil's courses would be another option but I don't think he is doing any this year. See the Hobby Holidays website.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...