shellshock Posted June 26, 2017 Author Share Posted June 26, 2017 I have now made the keeper plates and the front pick up using 0.22mm Phosphor Bronze wire rubbing against the wheel outer flanges. The rear set all I have done is cut out the pick up plate and after I have painted the chassis and fitted the wheels I will make up the pick ups to suit as it is mounted with a 10BA screw I can remove as many times as required so as to get the pick ups correct. For the front pick up I have worked out a suitable routing for the wires. Also I have made up the High level Gear box and extender and laying against a drawing to approximate size it looks as though it will work. Anyway whilst I am painting the chassis I am now going to get on with building the body. If I run in to the problems that Brassy has raised I then have the choice of a 10/20 or 10/24 but time will tell when I get there 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shellshock Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 I have now done the basic building of the loco body as well as painted the chassis. Thanks Brassey for the tip about size of motor I am going to fit Mashima 10/24 in to it as from my trial assembly it does fit in to the boiler even though it will be interesting to see how the fire box back head mates up as according to the instructions it is a pull out sub assembly which allows the the chassis with motor to be fitted to the body. So I am now going to assemble the wheels and in the case of the crank axle I think I will make up some suitable spacers to temporally fit between the crank webs when I press the wheels on so as to reduce the chance of ruining the assembled crank axle. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shellshock Posted July 5, 2017 Author Share Posted July 5, 2017 (edited) Bad News when fitting the wheels to the crank axle fro the final push to get the axle home I did a very stupid thing I forgot to fit the crank web spacers I had made up and successfully used for the initial press fit using the GW press tool so I broke the axle. To say I was not pleased with myself is an understatement the air around me was bluer than blue! Anyway I am calming down and I have already ordered a replacement inside motion set from Brassmasters which they say should be going in to the post tomorrow. Also I contacted Colin from Alan Gibson and explained my C--- Up and very kindly he is going to post me a replacement axle free of charge. In the mean time I am going to make a start on the tender which is a Dean 2500 Gallon version. Edited July 5, 2017 by shellshock Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 If it was going to happen, better that it happens now rather than later on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shellshock Posted July 8, 2017 Author Share Posted July 8, 2017 (edited) Whilst waiting for the replacement Motion Kit from Brassmasters I have started to build the tender. So far I have got the basic chassis built and made a good start on the body.One thing I noted is that for the Martin Finney design the centre axle is 26 mm long parallel bearing not pin point and Alan Gibson do not make this type of axle whilst last year when building the Hall tender I used Ultrascale wheels and Ultrascale provided one of the axles as required for the Martin Finney Kit as when I ordered the wheel set I told them I was building a martin Finney tender. So I used some spare 2mm dia steel rod left overs from the many High Level gearboxes I have built for this axle. Also I found them easier to assemble. So maybe for the next Martin Finney tender I build I will use Ultrascale wheels for the tender.Anyway I will now slog on with the tender and as soon as the replacement Motion Kit arrives go for Inside Motion MK2! Lastly thanks for all the supportive remarks. Edited July 8, 2017 by shellshock 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted July 8, 2017 Share Posted July 8, 2017 One of the things about the original designs that made me a bit unhappy was that there was no facility to drop the wheelsets out after you had built it..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted July 14, 2017 Share Posted July 14, 2017 One of the things about the original designs that made me a bit unhappy was that there was no facility to drop the wheelsets out after you had built it..... You can bolt the two halves of the tender together quite easily using 10BA bolts through the holes edged into the frames and the ventral well. The brakes get tricky to assemble but a fully sprung Finney tender with removable wheels is quite easy with some custom made Bill Bedford style carriers. I have done three this was so far. When it comes to pushing the axles onto the crank axle I usually put an old knife blade or another stiff thin piece of metal into the crank slot so that when I push the wheels on the load is reacted directly onto the metal plate held by my fingers and not through the crank, which even if it doesn't break is quite likely to bend under assembly This means that the GW models Wheel Press is probably not the best tool to use for this operation. Also if you fit and quarter the wheels before you assemble the crank axle, you can mark the wheels and axles to get the quartering spot on when you reassemble them. A permanent black marker pen can be used to just draw a line on the end of the axle onto the wheel boss. As long the line has a crisp edge you just have to align the lines again on reassembly. Once you have tested the quartering you can dismantle everything and go through the steps to assemble the crank axle. It worked for me! Regards Mark Humphrys Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted July 14, 2017 Share Posted July 14, 2017 I have now done the basic building of the loco body as well as painted the chassis. Thanks Brassey for the tip about size of motor I am going to fit Mashima 10/24 in to it as from my trial assembly it does fit in to the boiler even though it will be interesting to see how the fire box back head mates up as according to the instructions it is a pull out sub assembly which allows the the chassis with motor to be fitted to the body. I made the back head and cab floor assembly (complete with crew) as a drop out unit (as per instructions? I can't remember as it was nearly twenty years ago!). It comes out every time the body is separated from the chassis. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shellshock Posted July 21, 2017 Author Share Posted July 21, 2017 At last after 3 attempts I have got the inside Motion built and working. After this experience I think I am beginning to get good at building crank axles and inside motion. When I assembled this one that works I remembered to insert the packing pieces between the crank webs. Also I have finished the Tender and Primed the body as well as painted the chassis black. Whilst waiting for the paint on the chassis to dry I have fitted the coupling rods and Loctited the nuts in place so tomorrow I will start on the pick-ups for the chassis which I am sure will be fun and games as I will have to route pick-up wires in such a way that they do not foul the motion and any other moving parts and also be as inconspicuous as possible. I will add a separate post showing a dodgy video of the motion working! 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 Very glad to see you managed to press the wheels on without mishap this time. I bet you're both relieved and very happy! Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shellshock Posted July 22, 2017 Author Share Posted July 22, 2017 As promised a dodgy video of the chassis on the rollers and yes I was well pleased when I got the wheels on to the crank axle with no mishaps!. Before I start to fit the pick ups I am having to do some fettling of the body so that it sits down at the front due to the inside motion cylinder assembly. Dean Goods 4_WMV V8.wmv 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassey Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 As promised a dodgy video of the chassis on the rollers and yes I was well pleased when I got the wheels on to the crank axle with no mishaps!. Before I start to fit the pick ups I am having to do some fettling of the body so that it sits down at the front due to the inside motion cylinder assembly. Unfortunately my Mac won't play the video file. I have one of these to build with the same gearbox configuration. Which motor is that and does the gearbox rest on the compensation pivot beam please? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lyonesse Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 Unfortunately my Mac won't play the video file. I have one of these to build with the same gearbox configuration. Which motor is that and does the gearbox rest on the compensation pivot beam please? Doesn't play for me either (Win 7.1). Maybe the OP could upload it to Youtube? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shellshock Posted July 28, 2017 Author Share Posted July 28, 2017 I have now fettled the body so that it clears the Motion Cylinder assembly really I should have modified the cylinder assembly as per the instructions but anyway I now have the body a snug fit to the chassis. I have now made up the wiper pick ups for the middle and rear wheels I then temporally fitted the wires to the motor and low and behold it worked. Regarding the front pick ups wires I carefully routed them around the inside motion and across what I call the front firebox chassis spacer. This took time as I used gel super glue for each section of the routing and made sure that it had set before commencing on gluing the next section. Also for the routing across the front firebox spacer I filled groves so that the wire was not above the top of the chassis and thus interfere with the body to chassis seating. Also I have made up the removable back head as well as the brake gear. Lastly regarding the motor gear box combination I am using Mashima 10/24 with a Roadrunner + and D1 Drive stretcher 60:1 ratio also the back on the drive stretcher rests on the compensation beam when running as a chassis alone. However when the body is fitted the motor gearbox is slightly lifted and thus just clears it. From some of the comment above I will have to get on with sussing up You Tube and see If I can load some of my dodgy videos there first and then link to this site. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 Going great guns there, by the looks of things. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shellshock Posted August 6, 2017 Author Share Posted August 6, 2017 I am now on the basic painting stage as can be seen from the photos all I have to do now is to tidy up the paint work and then gloss varnish the body’s ready for the transfers and number plates to be fitted. Also the second photo shows how I have in effect removed what I would call the bulk head between the smoke box and boiler this I hope will make it easier to fit the decoder and stay alive unit as well as all the other connectors and wiring. Whilst waiting for paint to dry I have got the Zimo Decoder MX649 loaded with sounds for a Collet 0-6-0 as I did not realise that they also had slide valves so as Digi Trains do not have any specific sound files for a Dean Goods this in my blasphemous opinion will do. Also I am painting working DCC Concepts LNER loco lamps red. I think I will fit the decoder to chassis whilst waiting for the final coat of varnish to dry as once the final coat of Satin Varnish has dried I will then have the job of first fitting the lamps and suitable connectors. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 .... in my blasphemous opinion will do. ..... "Down With This Sort Of Thing!" Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shellshock Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 At last I have finished the loco. Fitting the decoder was fun as it was a case of carefully feeding the decoder, stay alive and lighting connector through the firebox in to the boiler and then the motor. As the smoke box door was not fitted I was able to using tweezers pull these components through. I had to tape the various wires from the pick ups , firebox LED and wires to the speaker in the tender to the sides of the motor so as to make installation as easy as possible. Even though I have noticed that all these wires do tend to stiffen up the compensation of the chassis. As you can see from the first photo with the smoke box door not fitted there is very little room in the smoke box. In fact when I fitted the smoke box door I removed as much of the inside ledge of the door as possible so as not to over compress the wiring/components on to the back of the motor. Anyway I got there and have had the loco running very nicely on the rollers. For the connection to the speaker in the tender I used connectors supplied from Digitrains Soundtraxx Mini Micro Connectors so as to give a single micro pin and plug connection either side of the draw bar. Lastly I have uploaded a compilation video of this loco on you tube and I will in a separate post try and provide a link to it as well as some further thoughts on this kit. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shellshock Posted August 20, 2017 Author Share Posted August 20, 2017 See if I can embed the file At last I seem to have got it to work they way I want hope you like it . The film consists of short segments filmed with my digital camera and then pasted together. Later this week I will post some more photos of the Dean Goods plus comments on what I have learned from this build 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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