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Extension to a small OO gauge layout


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I am planning on making a new extension to my small OO shelf layout.

The maximum space I have for this extension is about 70 x 30 cm.

 

I thought instead of filling the whole place with a lot of stuff I rather keep it quite simple.

It will only have a bit of curved rail a small bridge and a farm.

 

On holiday in Northumberland I saw a farm on which the model is loosely based on.

As the bridge will cross a small river this will give me the opportunity to model streaming water.

Just to get going I will start with the Farm as this actually gave me the inspiration to build.

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In my first post I did not show you to which layout the extension is meant for. I added a couple of photographs to show you.

Also I have to admit that what I am building is actually a replacement of the right hand side of the layout.

The layout is quite simple. It is a Inglenook with a branch line between the sidings.

The total size of the layout is 160 cm long and 30 cm deep.

 

Overall view:

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Detail of right hand side:

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Detail of left hand side:

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Progress on the farm

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A very nice looking layout. It is full of atmosphere. Not sure why you want to replace part of it though. Farmhouse is progressing well.

Thank you for the compliment.

The reason for building a replacement is based on limited space. The only space I have for having a model railway is a shelf of 160 x 30 cm.

As I like to build something new this means either building something completely new or replacing part of the layout.

The shelf is in our living room and I like to look at something that is attractive to look at. So a half finished layout is actually not an option.

 

Instead of starting with the framework for the layout which I normally would do I started with the farm.

The building can be put in a drawer when I do not work on it. Once finished it will help to get something interesting to look at once I start with the framework and tracks.

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This weekend I painted the stones of the walls in different colours brown and started with weathering the farm.

 

Left hand side

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Front

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Back

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As I will add interior lighting to most of the rooms I decided to make to room interiors as well.

The lighting will be two or three white LED's with a resistor to control the amount of light they give.

 

The living room

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And both interiors in place.

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The other windows will get curtains so one would not be able to look inside.

Next job will be to make the lighting and make sure that it does not have any unwanted light leaks.

Once this is done I will add the windows, doors, roof and other details.

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The first thing I did this weekend is making the lights for in the farm. I soldered a LED and an 560 ohm resistor to a piece of experimenting board.

 

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This is glued into a light box made of white 2mm cardboard. The places I wanted the light to 'escape' from are covered with opaque plastic so that the light is more or less evenly spread into the area.

On the photo you can see the two light boxes but in place.

 

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The doors and windows were put into place next and all the curtains were glued in place. The doors still do need to be painted.

I will probably go for a blue tint matching the colour of a lot of farm doors Northumberland.

 

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I just could not resist to start with the roof.

 

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Obviously the next on the list is to finish the roof and add the chimney.

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I was a bit too optimistic about making this roof. Especially the roofs joins proved more difficult to make than I first thought.

I do realise that I added a challenge for myself as I wanted to have 'proper' lead valleys between the roofs on the joins.

This meant making some extra interior walls to support the roofs as they could not run through the whole length of the farm.

The valleys are just visible. For those wondering how I made them: with a bit of folded aluminium foil.

So the roof is not finished yet and will still take some time to finish.

 

Just to get a bit of frustration out of me I started with the chimney. It is not glued in position yet as I first want to paint and finish it before I do so.

 

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Also the roof is not painted in the right colour yet. Especially the red ridge tiles stick out and need to get a more appropriate colour and weathering!

 

Pieter

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This weekend i spent most of the time on finishing the roof and fitted the gutters.

 

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The chimney is still not finished yet and it also needs flashing. The downpipes and the dormer are next on my to do list.

Also some more small details will follow before the farm is finished.

 

Pieter

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The chimney is finished (at last) and I made the dormer and put it in place.

 

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Painting the flashing and weathering the farm are the last things on my todo list.

I am quite happy with the farm so far.

 

Next week I will on design the baseboard and just maybe buy the wood or other lightweight material to construct it.

I have not decided yet on the material I will use for it. I also have just made a "small" adjustment to my original plan.

 

In stead of building a replacement for my layout I am going to build a new one. The farm will still get a place in it and the planned idea for its situation will still be the same.

The only difference will be the part it will attach to on the left hand side will be a new station.

 

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The idea is a simple terminus station with one platform and a bay platform. Total length will be 3m and the depth 40 to 45 cm.

An engine shed is planned at the bottom left-hand siding and a goods shed on the top siding.

Just as in the original idea the line will pass a stream and will disappear behind  the farm on the far right.

 

Pieter

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Yesterday I actually made the baseboard after a couple of weeks building a Comet carriage and planning how to continue with my small layout.

The carriage is far from finished but this is how far I have got until now.

 

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I am thinking about starting a other tread with progress on it.

 

But back to the farm. I finally finished it.

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The baseboard is quite simple. The holes at each end are for the connectors and cables to the next part of the layout.

 

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I just realised that I will have to make a hole in the bottom to be able to reach the servo which will operate the signal.

 

Just to give an idea where the farm goes:

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Obviously the bridge is missing. I am thinking about what kind bridge will suit the situation best.

A girder bridge has the advantage of being able to see trough it and see the scenery behind the bridge.

On the other hand a stone bridge with one or maybe two arches probably is more realistic in a countryside setting.

To decide on the number of arches I will have to make a 1:1 drawing to see which fits best.

 

Next job will be putting the baseboard in primer and start with making the landscape.

 

Pieter

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  • 3 weeks later...

I put the the baseboard in a white primer and also started with making the landscape.

 

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I am still searching for a suitable bridge and just stumbled upon drawings on Internet of the bridge over River Greta on the Penrith and Keswick Branch.

It is a upright bowstring which gives height as well the desired see through effect I like.

 

The drawing and information about the bridge I found on http://happypontist.blogspot.nl/2013/09/cumbria-bridges-9-ckpr-bridge-75.html

With some small adjustments it will fit in the space I left for it.

Have not decide yet if this will be the bridge to build, but I think it will fit nicely.

 

 

 

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To find out how I can make the stream I made a test diorama with two streams.

I mostly was interested how I could make a nice edge on the layout as the water will end on the edge of the layout.

 

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I used the new Water system from Woodland Scenics for making the water. To prevent the water from pouring out I used a piece of cardboard as a temporarily end. In the first test I also covered the cardboard with kitchen foil but this caused a very irregular shape on the edge. Not what I had in mind. In the second test I only used the kitchen foil to seal the gap between the bottom of the stream and the cardboard. I made sure that the kitchen foil was not above the streambed. After the water product cured I used a fret saw to cut of the cardboard and surplus of water product. After a bit of filing and sanding the edge it is even transparent.

 

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I also started on getting colour on my layout.

 

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I also started with the river bed on the layout. With the experience with the tests I still have some work to do on the stream.

The farm, piece of rail and signal are just put there to see how it looks like.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Since the last entry I added a lot of rocks to the river bed and its shoreline.

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Most of the rocks I added are above the waterline. In my previous test I discovered that I will not be able to model the shoreline once the water is in.

Half immersed rocks cannot be added without looking unnatural. So just to be sure I added more rocks than necessary on top of the ones already in place.

Plants and scrubs should be added afterwards because they otherwise will soak up some of the water product.

When the rocks were drying I started on the abutments.

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After adding rail beds I wanted to see how it looked like so I added a piece of rail:

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After everything was dry I added a temporary end for the water.

But before adding the water I 'played' surveyor on the layout measuring the distance between the abutments and all the important dimensions of the bridge.

 

The current state with the water in. Has to dry under aluminium foil for at least 24 hours until it is cured.

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This leaves me time to start on designing the bridge.

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When I decided on building this kind of bridge I was not sure which material to use.

Especially the curved part is quite challenging to get right when building from scratch.

I wondered if 3D printing could solve the problem.

The first attempt on 3D printing the bridge.

 

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In this design I left out the trusses as I first wanted to find out how sturdy it is and if the details I want can be printed.

The profile can be printed as I would like to see it. I still have to test if it is capable of holding a heavy model locomotive.

If this is a problem I will have to re-enforce the bridge with two brass girders and use the print to hide them.

 

Pieter

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The water has cured quite right and I managed to cut the temporary end and get a nice and clear water edge.

 

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I started with getting bushes and trees "planted" on the left bank of the layout.

 

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To my taste the foliage of the trees are not realistic.

I will redo it next week and take a bit more time and patience to get them right.

 

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Just to see how this bank looks like with the test print of the bridge in place:

 

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Pieter

 

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