RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted October 6, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 6, 2018 Should've known "Sir" would have a way! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted October 31, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 31, 2018 Back off holiday Did manage a little bit of train stuff on hols - 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted November 6, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 6, 2018 This took a while - but I'm reasonably happy with the lining up of them - 1 is very slightly high but hopefully not really noticeable. Medium knobs were a little short, long ones too long so I went for mediums. The smokebox is now permanently on the boiler. Getting there... 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted November 6, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 6, 2018 Amazingly this is only the second attempt at bending the handrail. I tried nickel silver wire for the first one but it was too springy for me. The front right hand knob has popped hence it sticking out a bit that side - need to remove some of the tension and re-solder as well as the front top one. Quite pleased with it assuming I can tweak the last bit of shape without wrecking it. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 Rich Looking good Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdb82 Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 Amazingly this is only the second attempt at bending the handrail. I tried nickel silver wire for the first one but it was too springy for me. The front right hand knob has popped hence it sticking out a bit that side - need to remove some of the tension and re-solder as well as the front top one. IMG_20181106_171448.jpg Quite pleased with it assuming I can tweak the last bit of shape without wrecking it. Nicely done! Took me ages and many attempts before I got mine right..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted November 7, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 7, 2018 I wouldn't call it right - but I'm going to stick with it as I'm not sure I could improve on it. Loose knob now soldered back on (It's a shame I can't access the rear to solder it that way), front knob soldered in and a little bit of tweaking done. I'll do a tiny bit of straightening when the boiler is permanently attached to the body. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted November 7, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 7, 2018 Nicely done! Took me ages and many attempts before I got mine right..... You're working in 7mm - so wire twice the thickness? I would think that's a lot harder to create curves etc. - I just pulled it round a handy round thing slightly undersize 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted November 7, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 7, 2018 Picked up one of Guy Rixon's new buffer setting jigs - Looks to be a great way of setting them evenly The proper length is 20" but I'm thinking of using 21" to give a tiny bit more spring that shouldn't be noticable. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted November 9, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 9, 2018 Made the pipe that goes down the side of the boiler and into the smokebox. I found a suitable(ish) flange on an MJT W iron etch. It's supposed to be for the plate that a coupling hook goes through. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted November 20, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 20, 2018 (edited) Does anyone know if brass westinghouse brake pipes are available? They seem to be missing from the kit Thanks Edited November 20, 2018 by Bucoops Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted November 26, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 26, 2018 Apparently if you drop it on the floor it bends. Who knew? Hey ho, could have been worse - nothing actually fell off! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted November 26, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 26, 2018 (edited) Just hope I can straighten it to as good as it was - with the boiler on and on a flat surface there was no rock at all. Now there's a couple of millimeters. C'est la vie Edited November 26, 2018 by Bucoops Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted November 29, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 29, 2018 (edited) Thanks for the support folks Mostly back to where it was - I can still see a slight curvature of the plate at the front splasher. Will keep working on that, and hopefully that should clear the couple of thou rock. As for why I dropped it - my fault - was soldering the boiler to the rest of the body and it got too ruddy hot. Fortunately I managed to "steer" the drop so it was the right way up. I think if it landed upside down serious damage would have happened. I've slathered loads of solder on to try and get the boiler solidly attached - LOADS of cleaning up to do now! Meanwhile I've been converting the wakefield lubricator from the kit into a pedestal one. Drilled and soldered some 1.5mm brass in the base, and have slid some 2mm brass tube over that. Just need something to make the fixing bracket where it attaches to the raised lip behind the splasher. Edited November 29, 2018 by Bucoops 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted November 30, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 30, 2018 Struggling to find a closeup of a lubricator so going by the one on page 10 of this - http://www.bestt.org.uk/LM8-Pipework_and_Fittings.pdf It won't be a perfect match and certainly won't have the actual oil lines! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted December 24, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 24, 2018 Work has been manic and now I'm not in until next year so no modelling done for a while now Happy Christmas and New Year everyone - thank you all for your tips, guidance and support. Will 2019 be the year I actually finish something? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted January 13, 2019 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 13, 2019 Nothing much to report at present - I've been doing the odd but of attempting to clean up the excess solder after reinforcing the boiler fixing. Very itchy from scratch brush bits! I happened across a signalling diagram for the Shenfield 1933 resignalling. I've been half-heartedly looking for one for a while. Dang there's a lot of signals in the Shenfield area - ~40 primaries (for want of a better word) and a similar number of shunt, calling on etc. The primaries are an expected mix of 2, 3 and 4 aspect Searchlights, the shunt etc. seem to be a mix of rotating disc and miniature semaphore. I assume (without having access to an earlier diagram), that the miniature semaphores were in place already - e.g. 6 and 7 on the below pic, and the disc were new with the searchlights - any thoughts on that (I guess I should be posting this in the signalling section...). I also believe that the strange shape on the bottom of some posts signifies a telephone (red oval on the below)? Thanks 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted February 4, 2019 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 4, 2019 Struggling a bit at the moment I can't get this tank to stay attached to the boiler - just wondering if anyone can offer any ideas? Thanks 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 Cannot help with the soldering question other than try a high wattage iron. But great to see threads I like appearing again 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdb82 Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 Maybe a daft question from someone who knows nowhere near enough about loco anatomy, but are they meant to be attached to the boiler? If everything is straight and square, then there should be no reason for it to pull away from the joint surely? Is it pulling my away after the solder has cooled? 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium AdeMoore Posted February 5, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 5, 2019 (edited) I’m rubbish at soldering but could it be under tension from the footplate? Are you clamping the tank to take up the gap then releasing the clamp and it comes apart. If so maybe release the tank from the footplate and see if it still happens. I’m probably wide of the mark and certainly out of my depth but two heads are better than one they say! nice work by the way. Cheers Ade Edited February 5, 2019 by AdeMoore 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jol Wilkinson Posted February 6, 2019 Share Posted February 6, 2019 (edited) On the LNWR (I am not sure about other designs) the tanks were bolted to brackets on the boiler. These passed through the boiler cladding. There would probably be a small gap between tank and boiler. On models I don't bother to attach the tanks to the boiler (usually because I prefer to make the boiler unit removable for painting and lining) . Soldering the tanks to the footplate and cab front provides a sufficiently rigid and strong assembly, so I would suggest leaving it at that. Edited February 6, 2019 by Jol Wilkinson 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted February 6, 2019 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 6, 2019 Thank you all - I'm trying to remember how close it was before I dropped it - I am thinking it may not quite be in line from that perhaps? There is no inside wall to the tanks (not sure if more modern kits have a full box for side tanks?) so i was hoping to have it attached to the boiler for strength. I think (when I've had a good night's sleep) I'll see if I can get it to sit a bit more straight without the support. Thanks again, the support from people on the forum is great Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Nickey Line Posted February 6, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 6, 2019 Is it presumptuous of me to ask if you still have the instructions? ☺ On the loco I'm working on (sporadically!), the tanks are not attached to the boiler directly. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted February 6, 2019 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 6, 2019 The instructions are rather vaugue - boils down to build the footplate and valance, put the sides, cab sheets and bunker on, build the rest in any order. 3 paragraphs covers the whole body 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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