hayfield Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 I don't know is Mark is unwell, certainly 2 years ago he said he was visiting a hospital and took it that he was visiting someone else rather than attending him self. He was always hard to contact and orders took a week or so. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted October 25, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 25, 2017 I think I've been waiting 6 weeks now Meanwhile - some progress, even if it doesn't look like much. I've done some gentle tweaking of the valve gear and also tried out my rollers. I wouldn't say it runs like a sewing machine, but there's no sign of tight spots and I can run it up to full speed in either direction. It does wobble a little bit. There's no lubrication anywhere so not going to run it too much. I need the extra bits from markits to finish the motion off, hence the hanging down bits... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdb82 Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 I think I've been waiting 6 weeks now Meanwhile - some progress, even if it doesn't look like much. I've done some gentle tweaking of the valve gear and also tried out my rollers. I wouldn't say it runs like a sewing machine, but there's no sign of tight spots and I can run it up to full speed in either direction. It does wobble a little bit. There's no lubrication anywhere so not going to run it too much. I need the extra bits from markits to finish the motion off, hence the hanging down bits... IMG_20171025_141433.jpg Looking good! Hats off to you for tacking valve gear.....not ventured that far yet. Another week or so, and I'll be onto the chassis of my loco - been putting this off for a bit now Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted October 26, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 26, 2017 Looking good! Hats off to you for tacking valve gear.....not ventured that far yet. Another week or so, and I'll be onto the chassis of my loco - been putting this off for a bit now I keep telling myself not to give into the temptation to put this kit aside and start something simple like a 9f I've been really busy at work (damn them!) and have been getting a bit despondent with the lack of progress but having another go at the moment to get it on the move again. While I'm (still...) waiting for the Markits stuff I will be looking at getting the rather wide motor to fit into the boiler next. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdb82 Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 I keep telling myself not to give into the temptation to put this kit aside and start something simple like a 9f I've been really busy at work (damn them!) and have been getting a bit despondent with the lack of progress but having another go at the moment to get it on the move again. While I'm (still...) waiting for the Markits stuff I will be looking at getting the rather wide motor to fit into the boiler next. the motor I have is rather wide and long.......just too big really. A bit of extra trimming of the boiler might be needed.... My boiler beachhead I think I have made a bit too deep (I had parts that I'm still waiting for too, so made my own in the end), but this might work to my favour for fitting the motor in Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted October 31, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 31, 2017 (edited) Yes I'm not sure where I got the idea to use a 16xx Mashima - from what I've seen it should be a 14xx series for this size loco? Still, I can't see any reason I can't use it - I need to pop a couple of bars across the frames to hold the gearbox in place so it doesn't torque itself round the axle and bash into things. Think the footplate needs to come down at the back a bit. After some abuse with a file (heavy abuse too to wasn't surprised when a splasher departed!) the footplate is a sliding fit over the motor. The splashers are a bit thinner now but most of them are covered by the boiler anyway. Still plenty of room in the firebox area for a DCC module at some point. Edited October 31, 2017 by Bucoops 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted November 1, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 1, 2017 That looks a bit better (so I need to put the spacer back on that I took off...). I need to widen the slots in the footplate a little as the wheels can touch so a short is very likely. Not sure what to do with the smokebox saddle as it's not the right radius Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdb82 Posted November 5, 2017 Share Posted November 5, 2017 That looks a bit better (so I need to put the spacer back on that I took off...). I need to widen the slots in the footplate a little as the wheels can touch so a short is very likely. Not sure what to do with the smokebox saddle as it's not the right radius IMG_20171101_084117.jpg Although not perfect, something like Milliput could work if the gap between the saddle and the smokebox is not too big - that way you could form the radius by simply pressing the boiler into the Milliput, trim off the excess, smooth with water, file and sand. I've just done something similar with my saddle, but it was only a small gap, but too big to fill with solder. It is a bit of an experiment, and one which for my loco is mainly out of sight... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted November 6, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 6, 2017 Hmm, that sounds like a possible solution - not ideal as would prefer to be able to solder the boiler to the saddle. Managed to get the bit of wire about 1mm too far forwards. Whoops! Easily fixed though. I need to swap the screw for a countersunk one to avoid the wheel, but at least I got that in the right place Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted November 13, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 13, 2017 Small update - countersink screw obtained and the head thinned down. Really need to give markits another call... 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted November 20, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 20, 2017 Snaffled some more crankpin nuts, and so finally...FINALLY... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EE3uHbYDU6Y Rather surprised it doesn't bind up. It looks like the centre axle isn't quite right, probably one of the wheels is ever so slightly wonky. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted November 22, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 22, 2017 Turning my eye to pickups - what's the minimum number reccomended? I'm thinking leading and trailing drivers, and then leading and trailing axles on the tender making a total of 4 pickups? Is that sufficient or do I need to do more? Thank you Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowanj Posted November 23, 2017 Share Posted November 23, 2017 Nice to see a Jamieson kit being built to such a good standard. It's years since I built one and they are a challenge, but great fun. Re pickups, I think it's a case of " the more the merrier " Personally, I'd be inclined to fit all 3 sets of drivers and see if that's enough before fitting tender pickup's. The A3 wheelbase should be long enough not to hit dead spots. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted November 24, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 24, 2017 Hi John, thank you for the kind words! Not the best idea doing one as a first "real" kit - the old DJH J50 being my first other one and that was 20+ years ago and nothing since! That sounds like good advice - I've got no layout at the moment so can't easily test the effectiveness but I guess that can always be added later if I consider the wiring route when building it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowanj Posted November 24, 2017 Share Posted November 24, 2017 Hi John, thank you for the kind words! Not the best idea doing one as a first "real" kit - the old DJH J50 being my first other one and that was 20+ years ago and nothing since! That sounds like good advice - I've got no layout at the moment so can't easily test the effectiveness but I guess that can always be added later if I consider the wiring route when building it. Tony Wright hates loco - tender connections, and tends to break them if possible, relying on loco pick-ups. If you use electrofrog points, this wont be a problem, and on my layout, with insulfrog I still manage without them. Other folk seem to fit tender pick-ups as a matter of course. I do suggest you will need a short test track including a turn-out to check running. Sorry if I'm teaching granny to suck eggs. John 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted November 24, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 24, 2017 I will gladly read and digest any tips - I do sometimes have a habit of ignoring things though - e.g. starting with a complex kit I have a couple of sets of Hornby points and a straight to just check how things run over them. I do like the look of the new Peco bullhead stuff however for any layout I do eventually build. It would be a lot easier to not do tender pickups so that's good! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted December 8, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 8, 2017 Been a bit busy to be doing modelling, but have no managed to start the fitting of pickups - There's a shim of plasticard under each one. The tips stick out ever so slightly - this is intentional so they don't try and touch the non-insulated inside part of the wheel. Hopefully. Next step is to solder two lengths of wire to make a kind of bus bar which also helps to prevent them moving etc. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowanj Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 Rich Re your comment that you haven't yet built a tender, I suggest you at least get a running tender chassis and the tender footplate ready at the same point as you build the loco footplate. You will need to check that they both look level and have a gap which will get round your tightest curves without the fireman needing to be a longjumper. I responded to your post on mythread. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted December 13, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 13, 2017 What curves? Very true I do need to get something of the tender done. The rolling part is two bits of u channel - one for the front pair of axles and one for the rear so it has an element of steering. These then screw to a flat piece of brass that is then fixed to the footplate of the tender - pretty basic! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted December 14, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 14, 2017 Quickly threw together the chassis for the tender - looks like it's about the thickness of the footplate high - should be pretty easy to drop that 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted December 20, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 20, 2017 (edited) I've been plucking up the courage to build the tender tank for a while - but as I'm *still* waiting for the bus bar wire (not got anything thick enough to be rigid enough) I though I'd best crack on. Nervous of it as the parts were very... wavy... and I've still not done a lot of seam soldering. But I think I did ok The footplate seems a bit short compared to images of the real thing but I guess that will give clearance on sharper turns. I wonder if I had the iron too hot as it went a bit brown straight away. There's still hints of wavy on the tank top but hopefully that can be hidden with coal. Interesting that it's just flat, not even a remote attempt at adding some depth to the coal space. Makes for an easier build I guess. I should add there are a few detail pieces to go on the top - it's not just flat and done. But nothing under that level. Edited December 20, 2017 by Bucoops 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted December 20, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 20, 2017 (edited) Hmm, just noticed that every tender picture I look at has the rear handrails in a different position. I guess I really should have selected a suitable prototype by now and checked... One thing the kit makes no mention of, but has on the drawing, is the coal rails. That might be an interesting part to do. Edited December 20, 2017 by Bucoops Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted December 20, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 20, 2017 I don't suppose these will look like brake rigging - especially as I am very unliekly to be fitting brake shoes, but it's worth a go!? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowanj Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 Nice to see the progress, Rich. Jamieson tenders were always a bit "bare", but the parts to detail them are readily available if you want to go down that route. I suggest you do have a go at adding brakes. I'm actually going back to kits built years ago and adding brakes to those I didn't bother modelling. Believe me, it's easier to do it at the time. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted December 20, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 20, 2017 Yargh don't do that to me go on then I'll bite - where sells suitable bits? I don't think I want to scratch build brake bits.... Still not promising I'll fit them - I do want to actually finish this thing! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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