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Hi Rich,

 

Nice to see the chain box on the Loriot. I'm thinking of adding one to mine as we have one in the P-Way dept on the DFR and I'm frequently driving an excavator on or off it.

 

Did you do the chain box from a drawing or just guestimate it, and what plasticard did you use?

 

Cheers,

Wayne

 

PS: enjoy the Sturgeon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi Wayne,

 

Total guestimation I'm afraid! On reflection I think it might be about 1mm too wide, but I can live with it. Many excellent pictures on Paul Bartlett's excellent site here, but also found some nice clear ones on Your Model Railway Club here. Plasticard was all from the offcuts box. Approx 1mm thick for the box itself - made 'square' and then filed to get the angle of the box lid. The lid itself is a much thinner piece, hinges small sections of rod about 0.3mm diameter (probably a touch too big).

 

I don't think there were many Loriots, and I think there were actually a couple of different diagrams, but they all seem to have the chain box at one end and after the fun of trying to interpret the instructions I can live with mine how it is. I do need to find a nice tracked excavator at some point - if nothing other than to give it a bit of weight. I picked up an old Matchbox one that will do for now.

 

I really need to come and have a good explore of the DFR when all this chaos is over. I'm pretty sure I've been on it - but about 30 years ago!

 

Will get on with the Sturgeon when I've found the wheels.

Hope you're well.

Rich

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Good Afternoon All

Some bits and pieces on the workbench this week. Not that much done as still working through the half term list of home improvements.

 

Sturgeon build has started. Not much progress yet. Always takes me a while to figure out the parts and the instructions, but fairly confident I know which bit is which now.

RMWB230.jpg.03698a660c1092298066392035d81fdc.jpg

 

Also been having a play with some Hunt Couplings this week. Given that Brio has been around for more than 50 years, and Lego trains have had them for a similar amount of time, it is surprising that nobody has though of these before. Got some of the Elite ones to play and experiment with. Potential I think for fixed rakes of coaches - certainly within the rake. A little concerned about build (or should that be print) quality so far, but I suppose it is early days. I accidentally fitted one upside down to a Heljan 47, and snapped the tail off trying to remove it. Also broke one trying to fit to a Bachmann Mk1 - they're quite brittle. Also, all seem to have a distinct curve to the 3d printed 'body' of the coupling.

RMWB231.jpg.19d9cb84b294c62f9b5bc8421bc321c0.jpg

 

Quite unobtrusive though, and massive potential for exhibition use to save time. Picture below shows one of the buckeye type on the 47 on the left, and a cranked plain one on the Mk1 on the right.

RMWB232.jpg.7c021f0861d8a66ce86bfe00935fc64f.jpg

 

Also been playing around with some bits of plastruct trying to see if I can put together a suitable signal for the back of the station. Still a work in progress.

RMWB233.jpg.80ed7873eee9a0fa522f430b8e91d2fa.jpg

 

Stay safe everyone.

Rich

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On 21/02/2021 at 16:09, Markmiller2008 said:

Hi Rich

 

That Signal looks very good!

 

Mark

Thanks Mark. Just working on the building next to where it's going. When I have enough wiring to warrant getting the board out I'll add the heads and finish it off.

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Good Evening All,

Much fiddling with Sturgeon this week (no, not her). I so enjoyed building the one kindly sent by Wayne37901 that I picked up another to go with it. Unfortunately, despite being new, a more recent release, and sealed it turned out to be in a bit of a bad way. For starters both solebars were banana shaped:

RMWB235.jpg.c2c4cf372f3f2bf5689b789818edf27d.jpg

 

I initially thought that they had just been bent in the packet or through the post, but closer inspection showed that they had slightly melted, fortunately most noticeable on the inside face. Got over that by clamping one side to a steel rule while assembling, and then found there was a part missing, so had to fabricate myself an axle box.

RMWB236.jpg.c07230567af34d35cf973803d113a2c3.jpg

 

Much filler later, quite pleased how they've turned out though. Just had first blast of primer this afternoon - first time its been warm enough to spray anything this year.

RMWB238.jpg.5aa51bba69b37d30d74ca15e24d7103b.jpg

 

Did deviate from the instructions slightly with the couplings. I found that using Bachmann straight NEM couplings, I could attach the coupling pocket further in than the innermost set of pips and still easily negotiate 2nd radius reverse curves with them.

RMWB237.jpg.2e6df1f8446993efd9f0a11aa7efe548.jpg

 

Will probably brush paint as there's no need for any masking and looking at pictures the real things were clean for all of a week after painting at best. Planning on fitting lengths of scrap rail to act support for track panels, but may detail the deck and run them empty.

 

More soon hopefully. Stay safe.

Rich

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No, they go on the outside as separate parts once you've got the bearings in. Not a problem - by the time it's rusty and weathered I won't be able to tell which one it was anyway. Loriot painting next. From what I can tell it's a layer of black, followed by a layer of dirt.

 

Rich

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On 23/03/2021 at 19:09, Rich Papper said:

No, they go on the outside as separate parts once you've got the bearings in. Not a problem - by the time it's rusty and weathered I won't be able to tell which one it was anyway. Loriot painting next. From what I can tell it's a layer of black, followed by a layer of dirt.

 

Rich

 

Rich,

 

Yes you're right about the Loriots. Looking at ours most still have their paint and markings from the early 90s when in BR engineers traffic, so yes a mix of black and dirt.

 

How did you find the Loriot kit? I've got one to do at some point, and just in case I measured up the chain box although I'm not too bothered about it being to scale.

 

Chere's,

wayne

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Hi Wayne

Not a bad kit once I had deciphered the instructions - the ones I had made it more like a 3d jigsaw puzzle! I think Cambrian might have updated some of their instructions though - the Sturgeon I recently bought to go with the one you sent had a completely different instruction sheet with much clearer diagrams. If you got eyes on a real one it should be easier anyway. The Loriot went together as three sub assemblies - the two ends with the wheels underneath and the central floor. I think I replaced the coupling hooks on mine with something out the spares box from Lanarkshire (probably this as I had some), other than that it only needed bearings and wheels. I had some Hornby 3 hole that fitted - may not be correct but were to hand.

The ends were fiddly, but I still managed to get a couple of bits of wire to represent some of the brake equipment, and still have space to get a NEM pocket and a short cranked Heljan coupling between it and the buffed beam. The instructions do say the wheels will be captive once put together, but I managed to get mine out for painting fairly easily.

RMWB239.jpg.858aedd2b547015b7326d1a86e38c1b1.jpg

 

It's had a quick blast with a satin black (looking at the pic above possibly a bit too much - the top is neater, honest!). It will all disappear under weathering anyway.

RMWB240.jpg.88025ee6f1a8f66dc50747b9a47b88e9.jpg

 

Runs very nicely but does need something on it for weight.

Stay safe.

Rich

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Hi Rich

 

The Loriot looks very good, Might have to try get an NEM Socket and coupling on mine too now i've seen its possible.

 

I've got a Digger to go on mine from Kibri but i need to get the sprues painted before i can build it as its green instead of Yellow!


Mark

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Thanks Mark, hello all. I've just picked up one of these:

RMWB241.jpg.cfae40da39a5b6080f4c8a3bae3d3160.jpg

 

Not a great fit, but I'm sure I've seen these loaded on a Loriot before. Front and back mechanisms are a little chunky too - although impressively with all the right movements. Don't really mind as Thing 1 likes it and it was on offer. Will do until I find something on tracks that's a bit more suitable. Wagon needs some transfers now, I think I have enough bits to make up what I need.

 

In other wagon news, Sturgeon painting is going on:

RMWB242.jpg.c3ca2d81768b361db1e4dad3173f9604.jpg

 

And have now got to 6 HAAs in progress:

RMWB243.jpg.f3405e96c229be1deb471f46a17db4da.jpg

 

Still perfecting my method on these. I know the new Cavalex and Accurascale ones will be very good, but cost for a full rake (I think I can fit 22 but will probably limit to 18) is a bit much and I already had these and all the detail bits amassed over the years. So far: remove hopper, a few target points with superglue under the chassis to avoid bits pinging off during handling, then wheels out, buffers off, file bufferbeams, fit replacement buffers (these I think, but a while since I ordered them), then a coat of weathered black. Will be weathered when back together. Trying various things with the hoppers themselves. Have stripped a couple back to plastic, a couple have just been sprayed over with silver (decals go in same position anyway), and for the last couple have attempted to just remove the numbers. Will bring them to the numbered and varnished stage and then see if I can see a difference.

 

Stay safe folks.

Rich

 

 

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Happy Friday All,

A little more progress this week, much of it small steps but good to see things moving now it's warm enough to paint again. Just in that happy window when it's warm enough to work in the shed, but not quite warm enough to have to work on the garden!

 

First batch of HAAs has taken another step forward. Hoppers are now in silver and gloss varnished ready for transfers. This batch will take a little longer as they are in effect three different approaches, two of each, until I decide which methods work best. All chassis have now had coats of weathering: mostly sleeper grime and frame dirt, but with some weathered black included to darken some of the areas underneath (and disguise where the weight isn't well hidden!). I was 50:50 on whether replacing the buffers was worth it but seen them next to an original now and suddenly they look like they should. Will do the silver shank last as might add a little overall mist of weathering to bring the chassis, cradle and hopper together.

RMWB244.jpg.14b70479b9db648b4f620b866394f3fa.jpg

 

Motive power for this lot is coming along well too. Cheap and cheerful 58 has been apart for all sorts of weathering, but is nearly ready to go back together. Have particularly enjoyed various layers of muck around the bogies. There's a Mk2 in bits in the background here - test car 6 in progress.

RMWB245.jpg.6745628d74cd8c5b6fa2b2bf6ad02b4b.jpg

 

Loriot and sturgeons have made it into gloss varnish for transfers, but no change other than that.

 

Stay safe.

Rich

 

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Good Morning All,

Had a spare half hour yesterday to get 58014 back together, and very happy with it. This started life as 58045 picked up new but quite cheap. Cab doors were painted in black, renumbering and name plates on because I've always wanted 58014 Didcot Power Station purely as I grew up with the real thing on the horizon. Then a couple of detail switches to match pictures of the real thing, cab handrails switched for plated in version etc.

RMWB246.jpg.72099f56149ae8ae0a5701f742bf0f3c.jpg

 

Body and chassis weathered separately as I wanted it to have a look of 'used, but not filthy'. I'm aiming for 1988/89 ish when it was still pretty neat. Body just has a light dusting of frame dirt wafted up from below to blend with the bogies, with a little weathered black around the grilles and a mix of weathered black and Humbrol gunmental metalcote around the exhaust. Bogies are slightly darkened frame dirt as they seemed to pick up some of the coal dust in the mix, with cab steps dry-brushed with metallic silver to show the wear. Wheels are a slightly lighter shade, as low level pictures seem to show that brake block dust seemed to adhere more to the wheels than the bogies, not sure why - could just be because of the sheer bulk of the bogies themselves. Underframe tanks have an additional going over with Tensocrom smoke and oil washes. Buffers have a mix of matt black and gunmental blobbed on with a cotton bud and then polished slightly when dry.

 

RMWB247.jpg.9cf9d588622c940cdcde463366865378.jpg

 

RMWB248.jpg.314cdca23012be3291c13ba4beaf11e6.jpg

 

I did think about adding cab lights, but I think these would just serve to highlight the lack of depth in the cab interior moulding. Full marks to Heljan for the glazing on this one though - no glue at all: the windscreen piece is held in place by the cab side windows, which in turn are held in place by the cab moulding. It's so nice to have design that someone has really thought about.

 

Quite happy with this one. Need to get on with all those HAAs now.

Have a good day folks.

Rich

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Not the most successful weekend.

 

First this arrived:

RMWB249.jpg.21e95197f9f47a86997b4e3ea48ea848.jpg

 

Marked 'FRAGILE - DO NOT BEND' in a red box three quarters of an inch high. It has been heavily creased twice, impaled through from one side to the other in two places, had mud on top corner and all over the back and was delivered wet on a dry day. Top marks Royal Mail. Credit to John for the plastic inside though, I think what I need from the sheet is still viable.

 

Then managed this today:

RMWB250.jpg.61947181e15dc968787f70fa985d7291.jpg

 

Really not the finish I was after. Army Painter varnish seems to have reacted with the gloss I used for the transfers. Not sure why - not had a problem before. Possibly didn't leave it long enough - about 6 days. Fortunately noticed it immediately on the first one I was spraying before picking up any of the other five. 

 

In short, b****r.

Rich

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One success this weekend in fairness. Another set of magnet couplings arrived from Westhill Wagon Works. Run all over the layout with a short rake of chassis. Seem to have more than enough flexibility to deal with all corners and changes in gradient. 

 

RMWB251.jpg.fd6b2a3d98f045bf84a3d773e7706550.jpg

 

Chassis for the first six are essentially complete, just need buffer shanks picking out in silver. Will do this last in case they need an overall blast to tie in weathering of hopper body with chassis (assuming I can matt varnish them first!). Quite pleased with the look of the disk brakes (Stenson Models) - but not sure they're not too shiny...

 

More when I've finished cleaning up this mess.

Stay safe.

Rich

 

PS One other plus - jab 1 today. Feel fairly awful but top marks to the army of people making it happen.

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Now looking at the picture above I'm thinking I should paint those couplings. I suppose with no moving parts I could fit them before weathering the chassis and just blend them in. Some experimentation needed.

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52 minutes ago, Rich Papper said:

Not the most successful weekend.

 

First this arrived:

RMWB249.jpg.21e95197f9f47a86997b4e3ea48ea848.jpg

 

Marked 'FRAGILE - DO NOT BEND' in a red box three quarters of an inch high. It has been heavily creased twice, impaled through from one side to the other in two places, had mud on top corner and all over the back and was delivered wet on a dry day. Top marks Royal Mail. Credit to John for the plastic inside though, I think what I need from the sheet is still viable.

 

Then managed this today:

RMWB250.jpg.61947181e15dc968787f70fa985d7291.jpg

 

Really not the finish I was after. Army Painter varnish seems to have reacted with the gloss I used for the transfers. Not sure why - not had a problem before. Possibly didn't leave it long enough - about 6 days. Fortunately noticed it immediately on the first one I was spraying before picking up any of the other five. 

 

In short, b****r.

Rich

Hi Rich, sorry you’re having a crap weekend - I’ve just decided to redo two 56s cos I just wasn’t happy with them...on your HAA did you use different paints as I have had similar problems using Tamika paints over enamels. Hope you get it sorted!

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Thanks - I suspect I have inadvertently used an enamel gloss varnish for the transfers and then tried to spray an acrylic matt one over the top. I'm sure I've done this before but I must not have allowed enough time for it to properly dry. I think it's had six days, but in the shed and it hasn't been especially warm or dry. Luckily it was just the one of them. 

Good luck with the 56s.

Rich

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Just a quick massive Thank You to The Army Painter people. I emailed their customer services after the second can of anti-shine varnish I've had began to exhibit the same signs of bulging at the bottom mentioned earlier in this thread. Not only did they send me a free can, they also gave me some advice on how to shake it side to side rather an up and down - and not for as long as I thought it needed. Also (something else I've learned today) the balls inside are glass. I had always thought they were ball bearings. Apparently vigorous shaking can cause them to splinter, which would cause the nozzle blocking I experienced with the first can.

All in all top service though. Now I just need to finish some things that need varnishing!!

Rich

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Good Evening All

A few updates on things littering the workbench.

 

First up: HAA progress. Before anything else, I'll admit I'm not going for absolute fidelity with this one. I have always wanted a decent rake and had been collecting the more modern Hornby examples where I found them cheap for a few years, and already had all the detailing bits to add before the Cavalex and Accurascale announcements. A quick bit of maths proved that I wasn't going to be able to afford to replicate in number what I already had, and I have fears with modern batch production that if one doesn't commit to all you want up front, you might not see any others for years. Long story short, if you want a more accurate job see how to do it properly with the excellent Mr Makin here.

 

Varnish issues notwithstanding, I am now on my second set of 6 hoppers. Tubs have been repainted silver (experiments with the first batch proved there wasn't any point in stripping them or getting the decals off beforehand - I couldn't tell). The three here will be yellow framed examples, the frames have been repainted with a Wilko spray can. I'm in two minds about the red colour Hornby have used for the others. I'm not sure it won't look brown when weathered - which I appreciate a great many did - but I am of a mind when weathering that things look most realistic when you start with the colours things should be. So might end up repainting them a brighter shade.

RMWB252.jpg.0c7775a0a6042433c1c42515f8e2cb8d.jpg

 

The 12 chassis have now all been weathered and had brake discs added. This disks still look a bit to shiny to me. Magnet couplings working well and have now been tested all over the layout being dragged or propelled over every dodgy bit of track I can find.

RMWB253.jpg.a01bcd19e5f0665cb0e9fa99526a8063.jpg

 

Loriot has now been varnished and gained the very few transfers it's getting. Just a pipe on the bufferbeam and some weathering to follow. Please excuse the 24 in the background. Have been intending to repaint it as 97201 for about 10 years and just as I start to get the stuff together Bachmann beat me to it. 

RMWB254.jpg.866ee63c2af6fe9c46aadcd645872309.jpg

 

Sturgeons are all but complete. They have been tested all over and seem happy, but could do with a little more weight. Varnished and transfers are on. The Sturgeon A and number transfers, and those for the Loriot, were put together by John at Precision Labels. Excellent service as usual - both are particularly small. Again awaiting a bit of weathering and a load - but not much of a load, I think they look good empty. Somewhere I have a Bachmann Brill wagon that may join them.

RMWB255.jpg.8363d1def6723533f2e67ac4889ca8e9.jpg

 

Hopefully more soon. Really should do something to the layout itself at some point.

 

Stay safe.

Rich

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Hello All,

Apologies for the summer gap, but the season is once more upon us so better get on with the list!

 

First up: Hornby class 50 buffer steps. Besides all those that have pinged off over the years (rarely have I seen a second hand one for sale that has all 4), I seem to have this problem:

RMCA314.jpg.fc6686bcb82b5f85f44c36b61832c76d.jpg

 

 

Cruel close up. Would struggle to argue that this was 'in gauge'. They seem to snag on everything when being handled and if they don't ping off they end up banana shaped. I have tried reshaping but to no avail. There are tales of etched replacements, and I have hunted for years, but I have yet to find any that a supplier can actually supply! Until I do, I have found these on eBay:

RMCA315.jpg.05399c5a8eb88e8b5431c7b7205d1b80.jpg

 

 

They're not perfect - steps are just under 1mm wider than the Hornby part - but I think they will blend in when weathered, and it is definitely an improvement on the above. 3D printed by the looks of it, so need a bit of filing to sit flat, but a more robust material whatever it is.

 

The pile of HAA pieces is edging closer to having some completed wagons. Hopper bodies and frames are currently being weathered. A few more passes and effects before they are reunited, and then a quick waft to tie them together with the chassis. Will still have 6 more to do, but not banking on those before Christmas.

RMCA317.jpg.2ddcd3d2177b2614b57f748f1905719a.jpg

 

 

And finally this chap arrived today courtesy of Derails Models. Top service (particularly as I'd forgotten I'd paid the deposit - thanks Dan!). Just running in before detail fitting.

RMCA316.jpg.c0db273c9e75915efcf51f1ff134d30b.jpg

 

 

Hope you're all well. 

Stay safe.

Rich

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On 27/09/2021 at 08:48, Squirrel Rail said:

Hi Rich, good to see you back posting, I agree 100% on the 50 steps, I use the etch from Brian at Shawplan always been available or do you know something I don’t!!! Cheers Jerry

 

Only that you're clearly more persistent with that website than I am! Thanks Jerry, there's a few other things I've now discovered that might be handy too. I did look - for an etching, for a class 50, under etchings and scrolled down to class 50 and there wasn't one listed. I now get that the others are a different range - but that could be a little more intuitive! Oh well, I know for next time if these ones ping off.

Rich

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