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One railway wanted to do something for was the Mersey Railway. Drawings are difficult to find, but I do have one publication with some small scale drawings. I was then sent some Skinley drawings,, and not only were these a better size, but appeared to be correct. I set about doing the original 1903 stock as modified with enclosed ends. Only two designs required, and no alterations for the drivers cabs inserted. Thus a standard 3 car unit could be made up of one motor car and two trailers. These lasted into the 50s and there are some very nice photos in colour. They worked alongside the LMS Cl503s units.

 

mersey-railway-1903-motor-coach-1a.jpgmersey-railway-1903-trailer-coach-1a.jpg

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One railway wanted to do something for was the Mersey Railway. Drawings are difficult to find, but I do have one publication with some small scale drawings. I was then sent some Skinley drawings,, and not only were these a better size, but appeared to be correct. I set about doing the original 1903 stock as modified with enclosed ends. Only two designs required, and no alterations for the drivers cabs inserted. Thus a standard 3 car unit could be made up of one motor car and two trailers. These lasted into the 50s and there are some very nice photos in colour. They worked alongside the LMS Cl50s units.

 

mersey-railway-1903-motor-coach-1a.jpgmersey-railway-1903-trailer-coach-1a.jpg

Have a picture of these somewhere in a family photo album - probably around 1959.

 

By then, they were only used IIRC on the Rock Ferry service.

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started on the 506.

motor coach first

cl506-luggage-motor-coach-1a.jpg

Only detail not 100% certain is the roof vents, as not on drawings, and most photos are not that clear.

Also the sister units , the class 306 before conversion to AC, are close enough. I think only visual difference in body is trailer coach, as one was a composite, so had a partition where one roof vent would be. It should bealso possile to change design to suit the modified version assuming I can get a drawing.

 

just added the motor trailer and centre coach.

 

cl506-trailer-coach-1a.jpg

cl506-motor-trailer-coach-1a.jpg

Oh i give up...

 

post-4034-0-93628700-1511724056_thumb.jpg

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Oh i give up...

 

attachicon.gifIMG_2556.JPG

 

Sorry!

 

Might be worth adding that I plan to do models of most EMUs. pre and post 1948, but nothing later than Mk 1 era. I now have drawings for the Midland Railway electric units, so I will probably have to find the missing info I need for the original LNWR Siemens units. 

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Sorry!

 

Might be worth adding that I plan to do models of most EMUs. pre and post 1948, but nothing later than Mk 1 era. I now have drawings for the Midland Railway electric units, so I will probably have to find the missing info I need for the original LNWR Siemens units. 

It was never going to be a viable model. It was more of an exercise to find the best method of construction etc. Has anyone had one of these printed yet? I'm rather tempted.

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I was chatting to chap on LMS society stand at Manchester today(sorry I am hopeless remembering names). Anyway when he realised I had done a design for the L&Y steam railmotor , he asked if it could be done in O scale for Inkerman Street( I was led to believe that is about to re-emerge again). I said it would not be cheap, but when I got home, I thought I would see how much it would cost. I tested out the coach part as it was biggest part, but without details such as buffers, rain-strips or roof vents, which I thought would be better added by the modeller. I was surprised that it actually was cheaper than expected. Probably other mods to do. 

One thing though, it is too big for FUD so no need to ask. 

It has therefore given me an idea to resize other models. All my designs actually start out at 1/43 so main alteration might be to thin down the plastic. 

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Sorry to sound dull, your thread title caught my eye, being an O Modeller, but I gather from what’s been said that nothing is available in O due to production problems and costs?? Ah well, back to sleep again, you had me going for a minute. I must compliment you on your output, it is totally phenomenal.

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To answer both questions, I only just started to try an O gauge version, following discussion at Manchester today. I will want to make sure everything is OK before general release( I can supply drawings for anyone interested in O scale version, and would really want feedback before releasing).

My initial test was to check price and any design problems. Both were positive. I would prefer to do something more basic than in other scales, as in O gauge separate fittings would be better than 3D printed ones. Any large coach body in O scale will have to be WSF, but it might be possible to do the loco part in other plastics. 

The 506 is done, and available in OO, HO, TT and N gauge I am also looking at the modified 306 version. 

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One thing I don't want to do is a kit of parts. It defeats much of what 3D printing can do. My philosophy is that the roof and sides should be attached as that is the angle most people view models, and it is where most mistakes are made.  Also it can be more difficult to make sure parts fit together. In effect it would have to be a completely new design which would take a lot more time to design. 

As O gauge is big, there is not much wasted space so cost of bits is no cheaper than complete model. The cost is mainly based on how much space is used in machines and Shapeways can easily fit another item inside an O gauge coach body. I may tweak the design to make that even easier. 

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I see where you’re coming from. It’s a totally new way of doing things to me, even though I’ve seen the odd thing such as axleboxes being done at shows.Youve got me now thinking of Russian dolls, with a N gauge wagon inside a OO loco inside a O coach. Still, good luck with the your design work.

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Someone with their own printer at home might prefer to design in parts, but it would still take a long time to print, and printer might still not be big enough. 

It is getting the concept of 3D printing being somewhere between kit/scratch building and r2r. For O gauge I would leave off detail as mentioned, possibly only to the coach body. The loco part is more solid, as needs more thought. 

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Something completely different! Well it is steam, and it is a railcar, but it is double deck and also French. An OO version might look good on Wantage though. 

 

EST-Double-deck-steam-railcar-1a.jpg

Not that clear, but it has carriage wheels under the coach part, and a single driving wheel, mid way along the loco end. it is all one piece, no articulation. 

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A fireless loco without a chimney for santa to climb down would not sound very appropriate for this time of year, but my latest design is for one of the fireless locos which was at Huncoat power station.

I am expanding scales up to O scale and Gauge One(1/32). Small locos are still reasonably priced for bigger scales in WSF, but noticed FUD comes out about 5 or 6 times the price.

 

hawthorn-fireless-060f-1a.jpg

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I’ve always had a thing for Tyneside EMU’s and have got quite a long way down the line of producing some laser cut 1904 stock.

 

Seeing your comments on moving up to G1 would you be interested in producing the ends in 10mm scale as I think that may be more economic with laser cut sides than trying a whole coach print.

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I will stick with complete bodies as it fits better between r2r and kit/scratch building.A complete coach body comes out at between £200 and £300. Ends on their own  might be cheaper, but then using a laser cutting service for sides may not actually be that cheap and you then have to fit it all together, properly. A complete body in one piece means roof and sides fit properly, often a problem on many traditionally built models. Given the trend towards r2r models these days, I feel it is better to be nearer that than kits. It is r2r that is tempting more to try bigger scales.

I did originally think that I would have to do coach sdes via laser cutting, but then worked out how to do design easily for 3D printing. Getting drawings to correct scale is most difficult stage. It is better to stay on one path, rather than be ditracted and attempt to follow other paths.

 

For G1 I and mean 1/32 scale, but can also do 10mm/ft/. 

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My first ever desgn, and reason why I started was a WW1 classic, the Tin Turtle Simplex. I had known some were converted to run on standard gauge, but after WW1 Simplex changed the design, and enlarged it so it could be used as a standaed gauge loco. There had also been an experiment, with an armoured Tin Turtle body on a standard gauge underframe, but apart from ne promotional/test photo I have not seen any other references.

To start the new year I have designed one of the simplex locos,with open framework, as sold to industry and railways such as the LYR. As with other Simplex designs, no two were alike, depending on what the customer wanted, and were then often modified. I inted to do some aternation cabs .

As with other new designs, t is being done from N up to G1(1/32), and in the bigger scales more detail is included, but still basic.

sg-simplex-loco-1a.jpg

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My first ever desgn, and reason why I started was a WW1 classic, the Tin Turtle Simplex. I had known some were converted to run on standard gauge, but after WW1 Simplex changed the design, and enlarged it so it could be used as a standaed gauge loco. There had also been an experiment, with an armoured Tin Turtle body on a standard gauge underframe, but apart from ne promotional/test photo I have not seen any other references.

To start the new year I have designed one of the simplex locos,with open framework, as sold to industry and railways such as the LYR. As with other Simplex designs, no two were alike, depending on what the customer wanted, and were then often modified. I inted to do some aternation cabs .

As with other new designs, t is being done from N up to G1(1/32), and in the bigger scales more detail is included, but still basic.

sg-simplex-loco-1a.jpg

Ooh excellent - a SG tin turtle! Saves me having to try and scratch build one (or two!) in 7mm scale. Do you have a link to it on shapeways please?

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Hopefully will be updating Shapeways today, and link to my own website.

They are an interesting model to motorize. I want one in Gauge one(1/32), and wheelbase is shorter than any motor bogies available, so I am looking at some sort of drive maechanism, either based on an OO one or belt driven off a small motor. It won't have to be very powerful, just able to move very slowly without stalling.

I also want one for HO, which will be very difficult to motorize. In effect I will have to do something similar to what Bachmann did with their Wickham trolley, and have motor in a wagon. In OO it might be possible to squeeze a 24mm wheelbase SPUD into it.

The versions with proper enclosed cabs will be easier to motorize as motor can be hidden in cab.

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I have set them up on Shapeways.The O and G1 versions have a bit more detail, but some might find detail a bit chunky. If(a big if) I was to offer FUD, I would have to do quite a bit of redesign to get framework thinner.

Very nice. But although I am tempted, very tempted, I'd rather FUD. Thinking of the 'whole job' investment, the price upgrade to FUD is probably worthwhile. I have a lot of WSF items lurking in drawers that simply aren't worth the effort to try and get a de-Snowcemmed finish!

 

Might I suggest that you give wheelbases for the 4mm and 7mm versions so that prospective buyers can look at chassis options - to build, bodge, or buy.

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Very nice. But although I am tempted, very tempted, I'd rather FUD. Thinking of the 'whole job' investment, the price upgrade to FUD is probably worthwhile. I have a lot of WSF items lurking in drawers that simply aren't worth the effort to try and get a de-Snowcemmed finish!

 

Might I suggest that you give wheelbases for the 4mm and 7mm versions so that prospective buyers can look at chassis options - to build, bodge, or buy.

Much of what is said about WSF is just opinion. I have a lot of very happy narrow gauge modellers who have bought my models . Most industrial locos are not in pristine condition, so a roughish finish is not a problem. WSF can be smoothed down, you just have to approach it the right way. It won't file down easily, bu non clogging (green?) sandpaper works well, but also scaping usng a sharp blade on more difficult ridges.

WSF is a lot stronger, and easier to paint(any, yes ANY water based paints). I use emulsion matchpot paints which are good quality, and very cheap compared to small pots of acryllic.

For small detailed items which are not handled then FUD is possibly better, especially when in the sub 0.7mm thicknesses. I do want to experiment with some small items , such as platform lamps.

 

For wheelbase , it is 5ft 6in, in reality, not an easy length for modelling in any scale.

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