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Hi Peter

A happy new year to you and your family.

Nice work on the Peak. You've brought your weathering skills and the ability to personalise locos from 00 to 0 gauge - small details like the open cab windows and the silver window frames which 45036 had towards the end of her career.

 

Regards

Alan

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Happy New Year everyone.

Still no work on the layout though I have moved it into the garage and hopefully will set up a board this week to start some wiring although I still have another board to build.

 

I have almost finished my Peak though. decals are DRD  Thanks Alex they went on a treat. 

 

Cheers Peter.

Ooohhh don't, :nono:  :nono:  that looks rather nice Peter. :sungum:

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Hi Peter

A happy new year to you and your family.

Nice work on the Peak. You've brought your weathering skills and the ability to personalise locos from 00 to 0 gauge - small details like the open cab windows and the silver window frames which 45036 had towards the end of her career.

 

Regards

Alan

Thanks Alan,

Happy New Year to you and our family too. I did the weathering over a number of days as there is more area to cover. The open cab window was how it came, Heljan do open windows on a few of the loco's My 4mm class 33s have them too. It is a nice touch.

 

Cheers Peter.

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Ooohhh don't, :nono:  :nono:  that looks rather nice Peter. :sungum:

Ha ha sorry Andy hope it doesn't tempt you. Though I must admit I keep eyeing off those Dapol Jinty's. The weathering on yours is great.

 

Cheers Peter. 

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  • 1 month later...

So still no progress on the layout but I have finished weathering up this VAA.

 

A quick question while I am here. I have an NCE powercab for my 00 layout. Will a Powercab be ok to use with 7mm?

 

Cheers Peter. 

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So still no progress on the layout but I have finished weathering up this VAA.

 

A quick question while I am here. I have an NCE powercab for my 00 layout. Will a Powercab be ok to use with 7mm?

 

Cheers Peter. 

Very nice and subtle weathering Peter.

 

Re your NCE Powercab, I use my Gaugemaster Prodigy 2 for my stuff with no issues, even on the Clubs 60+ft Dornoch Branch, so you should be fine I would have thought.

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I use an NCE Powercab without any problems on Cwm Bach and I like the ease of programming. We use the Powercab to test all Minerva locos that we fit with DCC sound equipment. Previously, I used a Gaugemaster Prodigy 2, but the handset has packed up after many years of good service. 

 

Regards,

 

CK

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I plan to use NCE for my 0 gauge layout.  Mine is a bit big (but not as big as some) and will have all sound equipped locos.  I've read here that sound draws quite a bit of current so, to be on the safe side I bought a booster but haven't set it up yet.

 

John

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Pete, my NCE power cab will happily run a sound fitted Heljan diesel along with a Dapol 08 which does me. I think running two or more Heljans would require a booster.

 

Paul

Thanks paul, I am only going to be running one loco at a time thats good news.

 

Cheers Peter.

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Very nice and subtle weathering Peter.

 

Re your NCE Powercab, I use my Gaugemaster Prodigy 2 for my stuff with no issues, even on the Clubs 60+ft Dornoch Branch, so you should be fine I would have thought.

Thanks Andy, I quite enjoy weathering the 7mm stuff. 

 

When I was first looking into going DCC I was looking at getting the Prodigy but the price of the NCE won me in the end.

 

Seems like the NCE should do the trick.

 

Cheers Peter.

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I use an NCE Powercab without any problems on Cwm Bach and I like the ease of programming. We use the Powercab to test all Minerva locos that we fit with DCC sound equipment. Previously, I used a Gaugemaster Prodigy 2, but the handset has packed up after many years of good service. 

 

Regards,

 

CK

Hi Chris, Thanks Nice layout by the way. My worry was that the Heljan draw a bit more power. It seems that a few 7mm guys are using the Powercab so it should be ok for my little shunting layout.

 

Cheers Peter.

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I plan to use NCE for my 0 gauge layout.  Mine is a bit big (but not as big as some) and will have all sound equipped locos.  I've read here that sound draws quite a bit of current so, to be on the safe side I bought a booster but haven't set it up yet.

 

John

Thanks John,  I plan to put sound in a few loco's at some point. I will see how I go and it I have problems will get a booster.

 

Cheers Peter.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi All,

I have made a start on wiring, and have put a few droppers in. I have also modified my Peco points a bit more as I have decided to use a few Tortoise point motors. The slight problem is I have googled how to wire these up. There seems to be different ways of doing it so any advice would be great. What I am not sure about is what terminal to wire the frog too, as I only have the one wire coming from the point and some wiring diagrams have two. also I am going to use a DPDT switch but some of mine are, on on and some are on off on. 

 

Any help would be great cheers Peter.

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Hi All,

I have made a start on wiring, and have put a few droppers in. I have also modified my Peco points a bit more as I have decided to use a few Tortoise point motors. The slight problem is I have googled how to wire these up. There seems to be different ways of doing it so any advice would be great. What I am not sure about is what terminal to wire the frog too, as I only have the one wire coming from the point and some wiring diagrams have two. also I am going to use a DPDT switch but some of mine are, on on and some are on off on. 

 

Any help would be great cheers Peter.

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Hope this is of some help Peter.

Edited by Andrew P
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Thanks Andy. Yes that is helpful and it shows what I have done so far is right with regards to the point wiring. I am still not sure what terimal on the tortoise I wire the frog wire too though. 

 

Cheers Peter.

Nor am I Peter, and as I'm considering Tortoise next time / for the first time, it would be good to know. I also need to know the depth of the Tortoise Motor.

Edited by Andrew P
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Nor am I Peter, and as I'm considering Tortoise next time / for the first time, it would be good to know. I also need to know the depth of the Tortoise Motor.

Hi Guys,

 

The Tortoise motors are three and a quarter inches long in old money as the saying goes. In the photo below the green wire goes to the frog, the red and black go to the running rails and the two outside wires ( blue and yellow ) are for the switch itself. The additional terminals are for directional lighting if I remember correctly. I run all the wires to a chocolate box in case I have to replace the motor and also it's easier to swap the wires over if the black and red are the wrong way round .

 

post-7101-0-80609200-1521917640_thumb.jpg

 

All the best,

 

Martyn.

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Martyn make sure those wires soldered to the board off the Tortoise are secure.  If they can move you might get a short - ask me how I know - and at a show as well - aaaarghhh!  I would use D connectors now.

 

John

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Hi Guys,

 

The Tortoise motors are three and a quarter inches long in old money as the saying goes. In the photo below the green wire goes to the frog, the red and black go to the running rails and the two outside wires ( blue and yellow ) are for the switch itself. The additional terminals are for directional lighting if I remember correctly. I run all the wires to a chocolate box in case I have to replace the motor and also it's easier to swap the wires over if the black and red are the wrong way round .

 

attachicon.gifIMG_0485.JPG

 

All the best,

 

Martyn.

Thanks for all the info Martin, There to tall / long for my project, my boards are only 2 1/2 inches deep, so I will stick to the Traintronics TT300 that are DCC Ready if reqd. There a tadge noisier and faster than the Tortoise but are very reliable, I used them on West Shed.

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Martyn make sure those wires soldered to the board off the Tortoise are secure.  If they can move you might get a short - ask me how I know - and at a show as well - aaaarghhh!  I would use D connectors now.

 

John

Hi John,

 

I know the feeling, I had a dry joint on one a while back and let's just say it took a long time for me to track down the loose wire....  

 

Thanks for all the info Martin, There to tall / long for my project, my boards are only 2 1/2 inches deep, so I will stick to the Traintronics TT300 that are DCC Ready if reqd. There a tadge noisier and faster than the Tortoise but are very reliable, I used them on West Shed.

Hi Andrew,

 

I'm fairly certain you can buy an adapter so that they can still work laying on there side, no doubt someone will help out with the suppliers name...

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Hi John,

 

I know the feeling, I had a dry joint on one a while back and let's just say it took a long time for me to track down the loose wire....  

 

 

 

 Yes the short was a swine to track down, I thought the weekend was a goner.  Happily a solution was found but it was scary.  :scared:

 

John

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Thanks for the help Andy  Martyn and John. 

I managed to fit two motors tonight and have soldered wires to the point motor, I like the idea of wiring them to a connector block so will get some tomorrow. I also need to find a 12v power supply so any cheap idea's welcome. 

 

Cheers Peter. 

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 I also need to find a 12v power supply so any cheap idea's welcome. 

 

Cheers Peter. 

 

 

I've had a couple off Ebay recently, one to power my Megapoints board and the other to power tyhe signal LED's. I've3 also just ordered a 6A one to power my control panel which will include switching my Cobalt IP's.

 

Jinty ;)

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I've had a couple off Ebay recently, one to power my Megapoints board and the other to power tyhe signal LED's. I've3 also just ordered a 6A one to power my control panel which will include switching my Cobalt IP's.

 

Jinty ;)

Thanks Jinty, I had a look the other day but tried 12 volt transformer rather than power supply and got some better results. It does bring up another question though, and that is what Amps do I need ? There was quite a lot to choose from.

 

Cheers Peter.

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