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Changing Sector Logos on Bachmann Railfreight Liveries?


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Hi all,

 

I've seen and tried various different techniques for renumbering models, including careful use of scalpel, eraser pencils, fibreglass brushes, IPA on a cotton bud, and T-Cut on a cocktail stick. 

 

Which of these, if any, would work on a larger detail like a Railfreight Sector logo? I presume these are printed, rather than painted (as they have a slightly glossier finish etc) so the same kind of approach should work? 

 

I know different manufacturers use different methods - the model I want to re-sector is a Bachmann\Farish 37/4. I'd like to go from Railfreight Distribution to Petroleum sector, so I'd need to get rid of the red quite thoroughly, rather than just covering over with the alternative decals directly.

 

Cheers

 

Justin

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Patience and perseverance with T-Cut usually works.  For any areas which remain particularly stubborn then I have had success using very fine Micromesh (used wet), or even very, very fine wet or dry paper (again used wet) both used very lightly and carefully. 

 

In all instances patience is key.   ;)

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Thanks - I'll give the T-cut a try. I think I have some micromesh sticks in medium, fine, and extra fine - so I'll keep the extra fine to hand.

 

Has anyone tried masking the area to be removed when trying to T-Cut a larger area like this?

 

It wouldn't be the end of the world to have to mask and re-spray the two grey bodyside sections, but I'd rather avoid if possible.

 

Cheers

 

Justin

Edited by justin1985
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The bonus with t-cut is it buffs the area to be removed up to a shine which helps with getting the new decal flat! Fox sector symbols come with white patches to place underneath the decal too, which helps with coverage.

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Just a thought, if the logos are all the same size, could you not just place the new transfer over the existing one?

 

Not tried this, but may be easier than possibly ruining a paint finish.

 

Rob

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Thanks - I'll give the T-cut a try. I think I have some micromesh sticks in medium, fine, and extra fine - so I'll keep the extra fine to hand.

 

Has anyone tried masking the area to be removed when trying to T-Cut a larger area like this?

 

I'd be more inclined to opt for the Micromesh sheet as its flexible and thus more controllable - the problem with sticks is that they are rigid and you are quite likely to end up sanding bits you don't wish to sand while missing the areas that you do wish to.

 

I've masked around printed nameplates before now, as quite often nameplates can prove stubborn to remove around the edges, and yes it does naturally help protect the surrounding paintwork.  You can just peel it back as you get toward the end of removing the print/transfer, as by then you'll most likely only need light pressure anyway. 

 

As mentioned before either T-Cut, Micromesh or wet and dry paper (used wet).  When you get into it a bit you can even use very fine wet and dry paper moistened with T-Cut as opposed to water, seems to work quite nicely.

 

More than anything just go lightly and take your time. 

Edited by YesTor
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Hi Justin

I have just removed nameplates and RFD decals on Grainflow using cotton buds and Brasso.

I do all my decal removal using this method and only had a problem with a Heljan class 58 as I think the paint is thinner than other manufactures!

Just rub gently and all decal soon starts to come off and you end up with a polished gloss area ready for your new decal.

I re-numbered all my Bachmann Metalair cement tanks using this method and, after applying the excellent railtech decals and blowing over satin varnish with my airbrush you would never know that they have been renumbered.

Regards

John

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Justin,

 

I use Model Strip, it's a paste that comes in a small white tub with a blue lid.

I mask off the areas around the markings to be removed then apply as per instructions, leave then wash off, some small residue of paint can be left but this comes off with a tooth brush or a finger nail. As below doesn't remove the base paint. I also used it on a Hornby 60 in sector livery with the EWS yellow/maroon Beasties, this came off in two goes.

37428TTGa

 

Regards

 

Roy

 

Edit: spelling

Edited by MrB
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  • 3 years later...
On 05/07/2017 at 09:20, MrB said:

Hi Justin,

 

I use Model Strip, it's a paste that comes in a small white tub with a blue lid.

I mask off the areas around the markings to be removed then apply as per instructions, leave then wash off, some small residue of paint can be left but this comes off with a tooth brush or a finger nail. As below doesn't remove the base paint. I also used it on a Hornby 60 in sector livery with the EWS yellow/maroon Beasties, this came off in two goes.

37428TTGa

 

Regards

 

Roy

 

Edit: spelling

 

Looking to try this method - How long do you leave it in situ before wiping off? 

 

Cheers

 

James

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On 05/02/2021 at 13:33, jamesC37LG said:

 

Looking to try this method - How long do you leave it in situ before wiping off? 

 

Cheers

 

James

Usually over night in a fridge, or about 8 hours.

You need to find the model strip paste first, it's not made anymore.

 

Regards

 

Roy

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