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Improving the Oxford Rail Dean Goods


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It's taken a lot of flack, but the OR Dean Goods is such a good runner it is well worth some effort to make it look like its namesake. 

 

My plan is to turn lined green 2309 into BR Black 2538 as an example. If you've followed the thread in the suppliers section, you'll know that options for the OR Dean goods are limited based on its cab profile and footplate style to the following locos:

 

2538, 2540, 2543, 2549, 2550, 2555, 2569. That's excluding other detail variables which exclude them as possibilities, though they are all more or less modellable depending how much effort you want to go to!

 

For 2538, I'll be doing the following:

 

Replace Smokebox Door

Replace Chimney

Remove Lining

Replace Tender filler with Correct dome and separate filler. 

I also plan on doing something about the firebox profile and washout plugs. 

Add characteristic repair plate to tender. 

Remove moulded cabside numberpltes.

 

Currently it looks like this: 

 

35157008960_ec9d2c4c93_b.jpgDSXT8518 by Alan Jones, on Flickr

 

 

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Do you think it is possable to convert the Mainline body to fit the Oxford chassis.

 

Generally, for an inter-war DG, I'd agree.

 

I assume the intention is to represent the last DG in service; 2538 in her final condition. 

 

This makes her a well-photographed example.

 

Both photographs from this period and a very good shot taken in GW days show 2583 to be one of the very few class members that retained a very shallow space between the cab roof and the cut-out to the side-sheet.

 

I could not say whether the line of the cut-out scoop or the radius of the roof are correct for this variant on the Oxford model, but I assume that the narrow band between cut-out and roof line is is the basis of Alan's choice.

 

Otherwise, although lacking in detail and refinement, the small splashers and the better cab-sides would make the Mainline body shell the better base for an upgrade.

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Hi

 

Firstly, thank you for all the trouble you took to post all those photos on the other thread. I found them really helpful.

 

You mention removing the "moulded number plates". I will be renumbering mine so any advice you can give about the most effective way of doing this will be much appreciated. I was hoping I could just prise them off but I guess from your description that will not be possible

 

Thanks again for all the photos

 

John

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Hi

 

Firstly, thank you for all the trouble you took to post all those photos on the other thread. I found them really helpful.

 

You mention removing the "moulded number plates". I will be renumbering mine so any advice you can give about the most effective way of doing this will be much appreciated. I was hoping I could just prise them off but I guess from your description that will not be possible

 

Thanks again for all the photos

 

John

 

I used an old no.11 scalpel where the end had bent and just kept gently carving it away until it was about right then finished off with 800 grit then 1500 grit emery. Same with the washout plugs. I had hoped they were separate fittings but no, part of the cabside. 

 

Beware removing the handrail - it's glued into the rearmost of the knobs on the smokebox, the rest are loose. I think mine is bend beyond repair.

 

2538 has a particularly large plate on the firebox which is ideal for altering the profile - I took a file and filed down the moulded one and popped a suitably sized sheet of nickel silver in there, some thin plasticard would have been better but I had none thin enough. I might actually do a small etch with replacement plates for doing just this, a bit more filler round the front edge to then I need to source some new washout plugs and drill suitable holes. 

35380732932_3781cfbf0b_b.jpgDSXT8527 by Alan Jones, on Flickr

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Glad to read your timely remark in the OP and to see a positive thread emerge on the Oxford Dean Goods. I don't know when the version with later smokebox door will hit the shelves but its the one I'm waiting for seeing as i currently have enough to do with building a layout. Already it looks like you are prepared to go to more trouble than I. I was thinking of making washout plugs but if you come across some neat castings, let us know.

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Glad to read your timely remark in the OP and to see a positive thread emerge on the Oxford Dean Goods. I don't know when the version with later smokebox door will hit the shelves but its the one I'm waiting for seeing as i currently have enough to do with building a layout. Already it looks like you are prepared to go to more trouble than I. I was thinking of making washout plugs but if you come across some neat castings, let us know.

 

Washout Plugs are part of the 3D printed kit I'm waiting on.

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/GD99FL2PX/washout-plugs-4mm-scale-00-em-p4

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That looks great Alan. The parts make a big difference, they're really convincing. Can't be easy to get a tapered GWR chimneys right.

 

I wish I needed one of those tender fillers, they're superb. Looks like youve' chosen FXD for yourself, any particular reason for that choice over the Hi Def acrylate?

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Nice chimney. 2538 had lamp irons mounted on the toolboxes, btw:

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/monthly_02_2015/post-13142-0-95191300-1423219666_thumb.jpg

 

Oh well, that's one thing mine will have to omit. I'm, not faffing about with lamp irons! 

 

 

That looks great Alan. The parts make a big difference, they're really convincing. Can't be easy to get a tapered GWR chimneys right.

 

I wish I needed one of those tender fillers, they're superb. Looks like youve' chosen FXD for yourself, any particular reason for that choice over the Hi Def acrylate?

 

Very pleased with the chimney too, your Parallel one shouldn't be too far off now either. I have a BHDA version too, but it warped slightly causing the filler not to make contact with the tender top and there are some support remnants between the dome and filler which won't be possible to remove. I also have BHDA and FXD chimneys, and a BHDA tender top that's right up your street, though the support placement is infuriating! 

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Oh well, that's one thing mine will have to omit. I'm, not faffing about with lamp irons! 

That's a shame....They are very noticeable and more especially in ¾ and side views. Surely no more difficult than mounting the same irons on the face of a bufferbeam.

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That's a shame....They are very noticeable and more especially in ¾ and side views. Surely no more difficult than mounting the same irons on the face of a bufferbeam.

 

Not to me. I couldn't care less about lamp irons full stop to be honest, not in 4mm scale.

 

I did however have a go at removing the splasher rivets. Ended up going a bit deep in places and not deep enough in others. Easier to do on a non lined one I suspect as the lining is right over them and makes it really hard to see where they are! 

 

The handrail did straighten up pretty nicely in the end, so that's now back on too. The paint has been removed from the nickel silver firebox panel to aid marking for new washout plug holes. 

post-21854-0-86793600-1500071923_thumb.jpg

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That really does improve the splashers, I think. Very impressed that you managed to get the handrail straight again, looking at mine I would have thought it impossible.

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That really does improve the splashers, I think. Very impressed that you managed to get the handrail straight again, looking at mine I would have thought it impossible.

 

Same here! I've never had any wire as easy to straighten as this - I'll have to find out where Oxford are getting it from! 

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