Pete Goss Posted October 19, 2017 Author Share Posted October 19, 2017 I have started converting some figures to give specific activity purpose to some cameos. This includes men pushing barrels, coopers hammering, foremen in bowlers, railway shunters with poles, sweepers, and a couple of lamp lighters. Some more work to do before undercoating. These figures are from our own range and simply have had new hats applied, bodies cut and re-angled, a few heads swopped, and some equipment added. Later conversions will include some from Andrew Stadden's Edwardian figures range. . 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Goss Posted November 8, 2017 Author Share Posted November 8, 2017 The next trance of buildings are under way. These are the smaller ones for the rest of board C and some for board B. Engine shed, workers cottage and out-houses, stables, boiler house, coal store, gatehouse, engine house and steam cooperage. All these will be made up into carcase frames before adding loads of profile detailing and painting. 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 What drive / interface system are you going to use for the servos? Gordon A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
black five Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 What drive / interface system are you going to use for the servos? Gordon A Gordon, as I've been co-opted (press ganged! ) into doing the electrics for Peter I shall attempt to answer your question although I have to admit I'm no electronics expert as just have a very basic understanding. The servos are Tower Pro SG90 Mini Servo obtained from Rapid Electronics. These will be controlled by MERG Four Cannel SERVO4 driver boards. To program the boards to operate the servos there are two options. The first is to use the MERG Servoset2 Servo Setting Box which has the advantage of being small so can be transported with the layout should it be required at any time to reprogram the board. The second is using a computer software program of ServoSetPlus V3 that is downloaded from the MERG site but on modern computers it will require the additional hardware of a USB to 9pin serial port plug to connect with the 9pin serial socket on the board. I've attached some images showing the driver board and setting box as they came in component form and as finished and under initial testing with one of the servos. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Goss Posted January 28, 2018 Author Share Posted January 28, 2018 Been working on the chimneys recently. Eight sided chimney stacks tapering towards the top. After drawing up from survey notes from the real chimney (see Andy York's photo on earlier post) I broke them down into small components and worked through the stages slowly. Timber strip wood basis to each chimney. Mount board strips create the taper and eight sides. Plastic card shapes added over with plain plastic card and half round plastic creating the stone detailing. Polyfilla at the top to the underside of the chimney top capping piece. They are now ready for painting. 13 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Pete Goss Posted January 29, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 29, 2018 Board E (Maltings) building structures are now ready for their walls to be painted. 18 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woebegone-by-sea Posted February 20, 2018 Share Posted February 20, 2018 (edited) Excitement grows every time I see an update on this Peter! Looks superb! Edited February 20, 2018 by Woebegone-by-sea Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Goss Posted February 20, 2018 Author Share Posted February 20, 2018 Excitement grows every time I see an update on this Peter! Looks superb! I am just battling with the Ind Coope brewing house at the moment and its associated racking building structures. The amount of detail and layers to be applied to the brickwork on this centre piece is making the model very interesting. Trying to keep everything visually tidy is tricky. I will post some pictures shortly when it has been brought up to the same level as the above pictures and is ready for painting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted February 20, 2018 Share Posted February 20, 2018 How are you making the brick arches on all the windows? It's something I always struggle with and you seem to be doing a good job with them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Goss Posted February 20, 2018 Author Share Posted February 20, 2018 How are you making the brick arches on all the windows? It's something I always struggle with and you seem to be doing a good job with them. I tend to use Slaters plasticard or similar. I draw out the full elevation in HB pencil using a set square on a small A2 drawing board with a parallel motion. And repeat with the mount board card base or trace the brick elevation onto the card once cut out. Anyway, then I draw an arc on the plasticard with a blade compass but not too hard otherwise the curve distorts. Using a Stanley knife I then finish the cut right through the plasticard by hand carefully going over the cut several times softly. That gives me a nice curved brick head clear opening to play with. The brick soldiers themselves are then made from plasticard strips (say 3mm wide for 9" brick soldiers for example), the strip should be longer than required so it can be trimmed to fit the opening. Partly cut through on one side only with the Stanley knife. The strip will start to curve naturally in one direction. Trim to suit. Job done. On the example building photographed you can see single soldier course's at the top, double one's in the middle and quad one's at the bottom. Most building's won't be this extreme of course where just a single course will suffice. I am just showing what is possible using the same technique. many thanks Pete 8 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Thank you very much Pete! I just tried a short strip of curved bricks and it worked very well. I'm amazed by the simplicity of the solution. Time to revisit my stalled building projects. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted February 21, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 21, 2018 (edited) That's a great how to thanks Pete and your patience doing so many is incredible Edited February 21, 2018 by PaulRhB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
77philg Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Hi Pete are you going to infill the trackwork? with Cobbles ? concrete? phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Goss Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 Hi Pete are you going to infill the trackwork? with Cobbles ? concrete? phil Yes that is the plan. Some areas will be cobbles where the brewery work areas require hard ground surfaces and where entrances coincide with track work. Some of these areas are extensive so should look good. Other areas will be fine ash used as ballast as regular stone was not used in the inner town areas according to written words in books I am referencing. The problem is to do the cobbles very neatly as the OO gauge rail spacing doesn't allow for much un-slightly irregularity. There are other threads on RM web I am reading which demonstrate a couple of methods. One has been done extremely well done indeed. I will need to experiment. Unless you have some experience of this of course? Using plastic sheet cobbles could be used but will need a wet process and scribing to blend in properly. Just not too sure at the moment. I used DAS on The Worlds End for stone walls where it was stuck onto double thickness mount board then scribed with some success, but this is different. cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
77philg Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 When they dug up high street in the seventies they found the original tram lines and cobbles under the tarmac. What I would have liked to have seen is where the brewery lines crossed high street [in 2 locations] and the intersections of crossing the tram lines too .Although this has nothing to do with what you are doing. Agree they did use ash /cinders between the yards, but cobbled on the yards .I've seen cobbles done with das but pva was used under das and a jig was constructed and pressed into the das to create the cobbles. Bit like a linka brick mould, one made to gauge width , This was very slow and I don't think the layout was ever finished .phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
danstercivicman Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 Wow this is impressive Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Goss Posted February 23, 2018 Author Share Posted February 23, 2018 When they dug up high street in the seventies they found the original tram lines and cobbles under the tarmac. What I would have liked to have seen is where the brewery lines crossed high street [in 2 locations] and the intersections of crossing the tram lines too .Although this has nothing to do with what you are doing. Agree they did use ash /cinders between the yards, but cobbled on the yards .I've seen cobbles done with das but pva was used under das and a jig was constructed and pressed into the das to create the cobbles. Bit like a linka brick mould, one made to gauge width , This was very slow and I don't think the layout was ever finished .phil Coincidentally, board 'A' (as attached) will have a High Street scene complete with tramlines, single line crossing and overlapping gates. No designs for this yet and will be work in progress for later on. The book 'Brewery Railways of Burton on Trent' does talk of tram line crossings rattling as trains crossed them, and also the crossings being focal points for rail alignment issues. I believe they may have been simple bolted connections until they made them more solid. On RM Web under Scenery, Structures and Transport there is a thread titled Paved track in yards with DAS, and Red Devil has posted a couple of excellent paved model pictures using Wickes lightweight plaster. Absolutely superb pictures. Red Devil recommends using Wickes lightweight plaster or tile grout. I havn't tried either yet and is on the list to try out once I have the brewery building structures ready for painting. I have experimented with normal fine filler but am not that convinced at the moment. I will need to spend some time developing this. Luckily I am not doing any more to the ground works until all the electrics are finished and fully tested.layout plan Cc.pdf 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Goss Posted February 23, 2018 Author Share Posted February 23, 2018 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Goss Posted February 23, 2018 Author Share Posted February 23, 2018 T Layout revCc.jpg The blue shaded areas are proposed to be the setted areas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 I used Das for setts. It's a slow work, but the results are very good. Rather than carving the clay when dry, I used a punch made from an old paintbrush pressed into the wet clay. They were painted with a combination of brunt umber, ultramarine, and titanium white. Final result: Before painting and with the tool: 9 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Goss Posted February 23, 2018 Author Share Posted February 23, 2018 My goodness me that is good! ! Did you use ruler to get the lines straight? looks much better than scribing. Is this 4mm scale? I used DAS for walls as I mentioned, but this is completely different to that. I will give it a go. many thanks for the pictures. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
77philg Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 Hi peter http://www.burton-on-trent.org.uk/category/amenities/transport/transport2 Don't know if you have seen this about the trams. Pics of high street included > what it doesn't mention is that there was an abattoir on the high street and you would often see cows heading for slaughter wandering about . As a kid in the 60s must admit watching this was strange. To be honest not a lot of the buildings have changed in appearance over the years at station street end of the high street. The horninglow end they demolished to create bargates shopping centre ,which turned into a white elephant. phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
77philg Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 hi Pete try this as well http://www.burton-on-trent.org.uk/category/amenities/railway/railway2 phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 My goodness me that is good! ! Did you use ruler to get the lines straight? looks much better than scribing. Is this 4mm scale? I used DAS for walls as I mentioned, but this is completely different to that. I will give it a go. many thanks for the pictures. It is 4mm and I don't think I used a ruler, maybe for the first line, then just follow the previous course. The only thing I'd do differently is the thickness of the clay. This is full height from the bottom of the sleepers to the top of the rail and it shrank a bit while drying. I would fill in with something, styrene probably, up to the approximate height of the sleepers, then put the clay on top of that. The other thing to be aware of is that if you press the tool in too far the setts start looking more like loaves of bread than setts, another advantage of a thinner layer of clay. There's quite a bit of discussion of how to model setts, including all the trouble with the Wills ones, starting on page 2 of this tread: https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=4889&start=25 I've abandoned the layout, but the discussion is still useful. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium maq1988 Posted February 23, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 23, 2018 Excellent scratch building, there already feels a great atmosphere around. The buildings look imposing without feeling cramped. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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