brossard Posted July 10, 2017 Author Share Posted July 10, 2017 Mike, I just saw your pictures, great! I actually found a good picture from Chriss Higgs' album and have been working on rectifying the errors. TBH I didn't pick up on it because I assumed the kit was right. I also discovered as I scrutinized things that the inner V hanger was in the wrong place and spent quite some time re-positioning it. While I don't fully trust CA, it can be annoying effective when you need to remove things. In the event I had to rebuild the V hanger. It's taking a long time because glue has to dry and I can only do a step at a time as I feel my way. So anyway, I just folded and soldered the steps. They do seem kind of fragile and it crossed my mind to reinforce with wire. What have others found/done? John 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshall5 Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 John, Hope you don't mind my asking but did JLRT get the buffer spacing correct on the CCT as it was half a hole out on my JLRT Fruit D and LMS 12t van? I'm starting a Westdale bogie GUV at the moment and quite fancied a CCT to go with it. Cheers, Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 10, 2017 Author Share Posted July 10, 2017 Not entirely sure what you mean Ray. I put the buffer housings in yesterday so when I post the next picture you will see. They look OK to me. I am NOT impressed with the instructions. There are tiny colour photos that I can barely see. Just vague instruction like stick this to that without any advice on the best way to do it. I've been doing some trial fits and I am pleased with how well the body sides and ends seem to fit the roof snugly and there is provision for securing the roof with screws. However, I think every kit has its foibles and it's up to the modeller to make a go of it. If you want a CCT I think this is the way to go. I've seen a kit listed on the MMP site but you have to be very OCD to do those. https://www.djparkins.com/product.php?productid=18282&cat=321&page=1 John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted July 10, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 10, 2017 Talking of the body sides, I assume the kit allows the 1 inch overhang on to the flat edge of the gussets? Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 10, 2017 Author Share Posted July 10, 2017 Well you've thrown the cat among the pigeons again Mike. The gusset is flush to the side. I wouldn't have known so I suppose I'll have to glue some microstrip on. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Reid Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 (edited) Personally, I'd leave well alone. When the side is applied to the underframe unit the body extends beyond the edge of the underframe and the corner of the gussets by 1.88 mm, On the real thing it scales to 1.20 mm. In below there, I doubt anyone will notice the gussets are marginally too far in. Edited July 10, 2017 by Bob-65b Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 10, 2017 Author Share Posted July 10, 2017 Now that I'm aware, I do see the 1" roof overhang on photos. We are talking the roof right? Or did I get the wrong end of the stick? 1" = 0.6mm so I think someone is talking about a different thing. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Reid Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 Further down than that John - top of the underframe / bottom of the bodyside.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 10, 2017 Author Share Posted July 10, 2017 That's a great drawing Bob. I got my gusset mixed with my cantrail. As for the cantrail being flush to the side, I think it could use a 0.5mm piece of strip. John 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Reid Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 I often get my gussets mixed up. But that's a story for another day Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted July 11, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 11, 2017 I often get my gussets mixed up. But that's a story for another day I gave you the f/s rating as, if you're having trouble with your gussets, it's support you need! Mike. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
djparkins Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 (edited) brossard wrote - <<I've seen a kit listed on the MMP site but you have to be very OCD to do those. https://www.djparkins.com/product.php?productid=18282&cat=321&page=1>> Courtesy of your informed diagnosis, I'm sure that my customers will be very pleased to learn of the complaint from which they must all be suffering! DJP/MMP Edited July 11, 2017 by djparkins Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 11, 2017 Author Share Posted July 11, 2017 Glad to hear from you David. My comment was not meant as criticism but an acknowledgement that your kits are at the top of their game as far as detail is concerned. Something I'm very interested in and I would say that any OCDness, in this context, is a condition to be embraced and not a complaint or something to be suffered. I have to confess that I have tried one of your mineral wagons but came unstuck at the springs. A conjunction of inexperience with your kits and my mistakes. In getting as far as I did my soldering skills definitely improved. Any project that we undertake, whether successful or not moves us forward I think. Cheers John 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 11, 2017 Author Share Posted July 11, 2017 (edited) I think I got the dynamo support done: P1010001-006 by John Kendall, on Flickr This is my second attempt. My first try involved plastic and lashings of glue and was very weak. I just nudged it this morning and it broke. I therefore resolved to use brass and it worked so much better, quicker too. The inner V hanger has been moved to be on the near side of the piping. As designed it was fixed to the far side of the pipes and you can see the remains. I had to move it so I could attache the bracketry for the adjusting screw that I think you can make out - brass wire and a 16BA nut. I made a channel from some brass strip, scribing score lines in order to bend it to shape. The swinging brackets were made from strip and another piece of channel after measuring and scaling the photograph. It seems to my eye to match the pictures I have. Another question, I noticed in the picture a red painted box attached to the solebar. I thought that as we were being silly I would add it and you can see the white box. I don't know what it is, I'm guessing something to do with fire protection, or even if it is appropriate for 1962. There's a wire connected to the back and I'll put that on next. John Edited to add a couple more pictures: P1010001-007 by John Kendall, on Flickr P1010002-003 by John Kendall, on Flickr Edited July 11, 2017 by brossard 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted July 12, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 12, 2017 Voila, one orange box! Mike. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 12, 2017 Author Share Posted July 12, 2017 Thanks for those Mike, I scaled mine from the photo so I might have got that slightly wrong. I'll double check. Still don't know what it does. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Reid Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 (edited) It's the Battery Charging Socket - one on each side and connected across the battery +ve & -ve allowing you to connect a 24v battery charger to the vehicle in the event of flat batteries. Also doubles as an Emergency Lighting Point allowing a 24v Hand lamp (kept in the emergency cupboard of the brake vans) to be coupled to the vehicle in an err.. emergency. It uses the same RCH plug fitted to the jumpers seen on the ends of passenger carrying coaching stock. Whatever you do don't paint it orange, it should be red. Bob Edited July 14, 2017 by Bob-65b Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 12, 2017 Author Share Posted July 12, 2017 Thanks Bob, worth getting out of bed today. John 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 14, 2017 Author Share Posted July 14, 2017 I rechecked the box I made - way too big so that's been corrected and a wire added. The roof is done and both that and the underframe have been primed: P1010001-008 by John Kendall, on Flickr I'll leave these for another day before doing the final paint. Body has been assembled and it is in paint. John 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 15, 2017 Author Share Posted July 15, 2017 As my thoughts turn to finishing, I wonder about proper livery. Pictures I've seen of W. E and M prefixed vans depict them with passenger style lining (central yellow/black/yellow (could be straw) and a yellow/black line under the cantrail). I always thought that the post 1956 maroon livery for NPCS vehicles was unlined. Any comments on this? Thanks John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshall5 Posted July 15, 2017 Share Posted July 15, 2017 There's a photo in Parkin which shows the prototype CCT (built 1955) in what looks like unlined crimson but AFAIK the production CCT's were all in lined maroon with black ends up to being repainted in rail blue. Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 15, 2017 Author Share Posted July 15, 2017 Thanks for that clarification Ray. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted August 4, 2017 Author Share Posted August 4, 2017 Well chaps, I got it finished today: P1010003 by John Kendall, on Flickr P1010004 by John Kendall, on Flickr P1010006 by John Kendall, on Flickr P1010005 by John Kendall, on Flickr I am well pleased with how things came out. I used HMRS transfers and, in hindsight wish I'd used Cambridge Custom - sorry John. There is no wiggle room with HMRS and you need to position them just right before wetting. The lining is OK and passes the "riding past on a bike" test. I graunched the paint in the first picture when cutting the line for the lettering. My patch repaint doesn't quite match which is weird because I used the same. I guess the colour underneath was too pale - just goes to show the importance of undercoat when painting red. I left the roof loose. I tried the fixing screws but the rounded heads fouled the coupling. Steps were fragile so I soldered some 0.020" wire on to reinforce. I also drilled and soldered wire to the attachment tab. Holes were drilled in the sides to insert the wire. It think it would be a miracle for the steps to stay on simply glued to the sides. I wonder how others dealt with that. I cut the vacuum and steam pipes and used Slaters springs for flexible hose. I made a bracket for the vac pipe and attached the QR connector with black tack. I made a small hook and chain from twisted wire for the steam pipe. John 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chelagasa Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 A few pics of the nether regions of the CCT if they help. 086-IMG_5386.JPG 085-IMG_5387.JPG 084-IMG_5388.JPG 076-IMG_5396.JPG 070-IMG_5402.JPG 068-IMG_5404.JPG 066-IMG_5406.JPG 064-IMG_5409.JPG 06-IMG_5429.JPG 10-IMG_5425.JPG 04-IMG_5434.JPG 03-IMG_5435.JPG 037-IMG_5436.JPG 01-IMG_5437.JPG Mike. Just building a JLTRT CCT kit now & with the useless instructions provided these pictures have proved very useful, thanks for posting. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 I'm happy to have provided with some useful info. The instructions are pretty horrible. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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