calvin Streeting Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 hi. nice layout, but can i ask about track, i am looking for tight radius turnouts and track for a small canal wharf area on my layout, Many thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 (edited) It's Tillig Luma Tram track. Hope that helps. https://www.tillig.com/dateien/Downloads/Prospekte/368610_Tipps und Tricks.pdf Edited February 19, 2019 by Guest Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted February 19, 2019 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 19, 2019 Yep it’s the Luna stuff which is ok but the flat insert with printed cobbles just doesn’t quite look right amongst the better detailed buildings and stock to me. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Hilton Posted June 22, 2019 Share Posted June 22, 2019 Paul what were your issues with the Tillig track? I wondered about a dock scene utilising it as it looks quite neat - especially the short bladed point that reminds me of wandering around Bristol docks as a child. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted June 22, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 22, 2019 On 19/02/2019 at 13:29, PaulRhB said: Yep it’s the Luna stuff which is ok but the flat insert with printed cobbles just doesn’t quite look right amongst the better detailed buildings and stock to me. (Puts on revolting pedant hat) I think you'll find, Paul, that these are printed setts, not cobbles. Cobbles are round. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted June 22, 2019 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 22, 2019 2 hours ago, James Hilton said: Paul what were your issues with the Tillig track? I wondered about a dock scene utilising it as it looks quite neat - especially the short bladed point that reminds me of wandering around Bristol docks as a child. The printed cobbles/setts just look too flat and shiny. I’m considering either hand laying points to match the bullhead rail or replacing the plastic inserts with Das cobbles. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Hilton Posted June 22, 2019 Share Posted June 22, 2019 12 minutes ago, PaulRhB said: The printed cobbles/setts just look too flat and shiny. I’m considering either hand laying points to match the bullhead rail or replacing the plastic inserts with Das cobbles. So nothing mechanical or electrical? I was looking at Tarmac infill anyway... the point radius is what looked promising... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted June 22, 2019 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 22, 2019 The points are ok but it’s folded strip so it does require gentle persuasion to get smooth joints. I’ll take some pictures tomorrow and try to link up the controller to show what I mean busy on the FR today 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted June 23, 2019 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 23, 2019 Here we go, the video shows how bumpy it is even screwed down. You don’t notice it with bogie trams but the Pecketts lose contact and the wagons derail too much to make it fun at home let alone at a show. I had to remove couplings at one end to minimise derailments. On the point this step causes some of the derailments. Followed by this bump where the rail meets the crossing. Joining up the inset pieces leaves gaps, some you can close up using inset pieces but joining another point on means chopping up the longer sections to exact lengths. And you still get bumps like this. So overall a nice try at rtr but it just needs loads of faffing around to run reasonably and then doesn’t look great close up. To be honest I think it’s as quick to lay inset track with Das clay on plain track but it’s not so easy on points and no one offers such good radii for works trackage. 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted June 23, 2019 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 23, 2019 Having used the Kato and Tomix N gauge inset track, which are far better looking and just snap together, I just lost enthusiasm for it and it went on hold until I’m in the mood to try building track again or redesign it completely to use larger radii points. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoarCrossovers Posted June 23, 2019 Share Posted June 23, 2019 What modelling software did you use to design the layout? I know this question is a bit off-topic, but the information would be helpful to myself and others when it comes to designing and planning out track lengths. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted June 23, 2019 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 23, 2019 42 minutes ago, MoarCrossovers said: What modelling software did you use to design the layout? I know this question is a bit off-topic, but the information would be helpful to myself and others when it comes to designing and planning out track lengths. Microsoft Word! I use the drawing tools and lay it over a grid picture. The three way split is just the Tillig drawing scaled and inserted as a picture with the white erased. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted February 8, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 8, 2020 With Peco announcing the medium bullhead points I’ve tried out some new ideas for the layout. Rather than squeeze the loop onto the main board I’m thinking of a fold down 1x2 flat board hinged to the end so the return half is off scene. Here’s a test on 8” radius 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted February 8, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 8, 2020 I've use R4 curves on the fold down loop on T-CATS. I also used a pair of fire-door hinges to ensure no unwanted movement of the trackbeds. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted February 9, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 9, 2020 I’ll look up the hinges thanks but I think I’m going to have to bend my own track as it must be R(-1)! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wandering blue Posted February 15, 2020 Share Posted February 15, 2020 On 23/06/2019 at 16:38, PaulRhB said: Here we go, the video shows how bumpy it is even screwed down. You don’t notice it with bogie trams but the Pecketts lose contact and the wagons derail too much to make it fun at home let alone at a show. I had to remove couplings at one end to minimise derailments. On the point this step causes some of the derailments. Followed by this bump where the rail meets the crossing. Joining up the inset pieces leaves gaps, some you can close up using inset pieces but joining another point on means chopping up the longer sections to exact lengths. And you still get bumps like this. So overall a nice try at rtr but it just needs loads of faffing around to run reasonably and then doesn’t look great close up. To be honest I think it’s as quick to lay inset track with Das clay on plain track but it’s not so easy on points and no one offers such good radii for works trackage. Hi Paul. Can I ask, presumably you fitted the little metal in-rail connectors at the joints? I’ve been wondering about this track for a yard , seems like it will need a lot of fettling for smooth-ish running. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted February 15, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 15, 2020 Yes the connectors are in which is why you can see the bump in the second photo goes up in three stages! Tram bogies manage it but the longer wheelbase of the wagons and Peckett randomly derail. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
puck Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 Hi Paul Have reread this thread. Just wondered if the two Pecketts have different running numbers from new? Regards Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveyDee68 Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 I'm glad Paul asked the question about your locos, as it meant your layout came back to my attention again. The problems you had with the Tillig track is a revelation/cautionary tale, but reading back through your thread it is the general industrial look with low height buildings which is making me have a little rethink about my own micro 'Castlebrook Sidings' and how I might finish the scenics on a very small baseboard. I'd be interested to see what you've done with this since you last posted. Steve S Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted January 31, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 31, 2021 1 hour ago, puck said: Just wondered if the two Pecketts have different running numbers from new? They have letters rather than numbers C & D, and yes they are the as bought, the initial release and from the set including three wagons. 40 minutes ago, SteveyDee68 said: . I'd be interested to see what you've done with this since you last posted. Er, nuffin with the release of the bullhead range I waited hoping for smaller points and the medium radius ones will be ideal so hopefully they will soon arrive and progress will restart. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted May 4, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted May 4, 2021 Two code 75 points put aside with the bullhead medium points announcement have prompted another mini project for the Pecketts while Paradise waits. Paradise Mine, there’s a narrow gauge line bringing the loads in and across a bridge to the shed. The standard gauge emerges from the exchange sidings under the bridge and trains reverse into Paradise Mine No1 while the line continues to the right to No2 I’ve used one of my 009 modular ends on the other end in case I feel like extending it one day. The hill will slope down towards the track. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted May 5, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted May 5, 2021 Paradise mine ready for testing. The points are controlled by a 9mm dowel through the board and 3mm narrower so it never sticks out. A simple brass wire goes through the tiebar and sits in the dowel. I’ve put magnets, all the same pole facing out, in both ends so a wooden ball with another magnet in a dowel can attach either side to move them. 5 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted May 5, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted May 5, 2021 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted May 6, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted May 6, 2021 Properly wired now with four isolating sections to give more flexibility on dc, they’ll all just be on for Dcc. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted May 7, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted May 7, 2021 A dowel running under the board is 3mm shorter than the width so it never sticks out. The handle can attach either side and is just two 3x10mm neodymium magnets in the end of the dowel and handle. A spring steel rod runs from the point tiebar to the dowel. 5 1 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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