Trains printed in color (1:160)

[SpoorObjecten]

Hey all,

 

Just wanted to share some pictures of trains I've 3D printed in color!

These are static models, nice to add to stations (they include seats so there wasn't any room for a motor in the current version, might change in the future).

 

Renders.

 

With windows 3D printed.

 

Latest version prints, without windows.

 

Latest version, left with windows created using Krystal Klear (some kind of glue that is transparent when dry)

[Joseph_Pestell]

A thumbs up for "like" does not do justice to that. Even "craftsmanship/clever" does not seem enough.

 

To be ultra critical, the division between the colours does not look quite as crisp as it might be but that will no doubt come.

[ian]

How?

[SpoorObjecten]

Thank you Joseph!

The material isn't as crisp as the other materials.

 

However this material does allow for something really cool:

Customized trains for a low budget (I'd sell them for roughly €45 per set)

Customer A wants a dirty train? Done, just change the textures and add dirt

Customer B wants a clean train? Done, just change the textures

Customer C wants graffiti? Done, just let me know which "art" and I'll add it.

 

It also allows people that can't (or don't want to) paint to still get these "exclusive" trains that aren't made by the big companies.

 

So yeah, definitely not crisp, still a great alternative.

 

@Ian, it's 3D printed in Full Color Sandstone:

 

 

Next train is being "painted" in photoshop as we speak:

[grahame]

Very interesting and effective.

 

I assume there is not a clear/transparent print facility and windows are just 'holes' that need to be glazed.

 

G.

[SpoorObjecten]

Correct Grahame!

I use Krystal Klear to create the windows.

 

[rue_d_etropal]

I have found the similar clear window product Glue n Glaze from Deluxe very good. In effect it is PVA glue with an extra element. I did get some transparent material printed to compare, and it is not transparentenough for windows. I wonder if anyone has tried 3D printing with a PVA glue type material, as it should dry clear.

[njee20]

They look great, very impressive!

[SpoorObjecten]

Rue_d_etropal,

Did you happen to have tried Krystal Klear as well? Would love to know if there is any difference.

 

Here is one of the trains with newly added windows that are still waiting to become transparent

[ian]

That is really good.

 

Thanks for telling us about it.

[rue_d_etropal]

Rue_d_etropal,

Did you happen to have tried Krystal Klear as well? Would love to know if there is any difference.

 

Here is one of the trains with newly added windows that are still waiting to become transparent

have not been able to compare, but I think both are PVA based, with an art additive(can't remember the name but artists use it). PVA could be used itself. I have heard of people doing so. possibly not as strong though.

Although only recommended for small openings(only so far can you stretch the bubble), I have used it on bigger openings by fitting a thin piece of celephane or similar on back. Not as clear but better than frosted glass effect using more traditional methods. I use it on all my 3D printed models. Just have to remember to paint model first, as the clear glaze will absorb liquid and you then have to wait for it to dry again.

 

The coloured sandstone looks good, not surprised at the slight fuzzing of the colour. It is something that will get better, and eventually I will have to try it. At the moment I actually enjoy having to paint my models, although I don't attempt any complex colour designs.

[SpoorObjecten]

Thanks for the information Simon!

-

 

Yeah the fuzzing is actually both the material and my phone camera.

You can actually read "Sprinter" with the naked eye, but not really on the picture.

 

Though it is indeed not as crisp/sharp as using decals.

 

For the printing price of roughly €30 for the 2 of these, it's not bad and a fun alternative.

I mean, i can't paint, but I can do the basics in photoshop, so for me it's fun to finally have "ready to go trains" instead of having a full cabinet of 3D printed prototypes without colors.

 

 

This bad boy is ready to be printed btw:

[SpoorObjecten]

This morning:

 

This afternoon:

 

Now:

[ian]

A couple of questions if I may:

 

Do you apply the colour on top of the 3D render as a separate (and presumably final) stage or as you build the various surfaces up?

 

On the printed model do you just get a coloured top layer or does the colour run the whole way through the side?

[SpoorObjecten]

Hey Ian,

 

The trains i've modeled a few years ago, which is why i can come up with new colored models so quickly.

So the hard part is done already, now it's just adding textures.

 

2 pictures will show it:

I use the online tool called Pixlr to add textures on my uvw wrap.

 

Which is wrapped around the model

[gelboy45]

This looks very exciting. maybe we could have UK MUs currently unavailable and unlikely to come from our major manufacturers.

 

Of course I'm only really interested in DC emus! 

 

Gerry

[ian]

Thank you.

 

That looks like a really powerful technique. I suspect that with N scale models the 3D printer can probably produce a better paint-job than most people!

[ian]

This looks very exciting. maybe we could have UK MUs currently unavailable and unlikely to come from our major manufacturers.

 

Of course I'm only really interested in DC emus! 

 

Gerry

 

I was having similar thoughts about some AC EMUs.

[SpoorObjecten]

Anything is possible.

Keep in mind that the trains are currently made to be static, they are filled with seats, so no room for motor.

 

Still nice to have it parked somewhere on your track (station or yard).

 

With pantograph, still waiting for the bogeys

[rue_d_etropal]

I presume this colouring technique can be used on any 3D designed models. I am currently working through as many DC(and AC) electric trains as I can. Fortunately within each company there tends to be a certain amount of standardisation. I tend to use slightly bigger scale, but I have already successfuly taken  some designs down to N scale.

Looking at the demo screen above, it sounds like you in effect create another 3D design, which is just the top layer or the original, and this you can colour, and then wrap around original design. Sounds like a slightly moreadvanced version of component system in the software I use.

Edited July 21, 2017 by rue_d_etropal

[SpoorObjecten]

First test print of the dutch Plan V (Mat '64)

 

[SpoorObjecten]

And while I've finished the train above, the train below is still in the workshop.

 

First car is ready though!

 

 

 

EDIT:

Done

Edited July 25, 2017 by SpoorObjecten

[bluemattersoda]

Thanks for sharing your techniques - I've been experimenting with coloured sandstone recently (here), and have been considering converting some of my N scale trains on Shapeways to coloured sandstone. Could you explain how you did the windows in a little more detail? did you have an acrylic sheet behind before adding the "krystal klear" (by the way, what is it?). Thanks!

[SpoorObjecten]

I saw the topic, nice coloring work done on that tram!

 

You can find a video of Krystal Klear here:

 

I don't use an acrylic sheet behind the windows purely because the inside is sealed off It's a ready to go static train with seats inside, you can't take the inside apart.

The model uses Print It Anyway as it has 1mm walls (so leaving the seats and chassis would probably warp n break the model).

 

The krystal klear is added with a toothpick, just adding the glue around the sides of the window and then use a bit more glue to add a film layer in the window

[rue_d_etropal]

As I mentioned I used Glue n Glaze myself as it is easier to get hold of here. There are some small videos online (possibly Gaugemaster themselves), which show how to use it. It comes with a very fine dispencing tube, which , if you keep clear works very well.

I only use a backing if the windows are to obig. On the whole N gauge windows are small enough.