drduncan Posted April 9, 2019 Author Share Posted April 9, 2019 Thanks! I will! D Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Mikkel Posted April 11, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 11, 2019 On 08/04/2019 at 20:29, drduncan said: Done a test piece of camping mat and foam board using unibond impact glue to make sure the adhesive doesn’t melt/destroy either part. This sounds interesting, DD. Have you drawn any conclusions yet? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted April 11, 2019 Author Share Posted April 11, 2019 Hi Mikkel, I had a look at the test piece this afternoon and there was no sign of distortion or damage. The bond between the pvc foam board and the camping mat was good too! Duncan 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted April 14, 2019 Author Share Posted April 14, 2019 (edited) So today, with the help of no1 son (aged 5), I have been making the mixed gauge cassette connector for the layout baseboard. Here it is with a BG cassettes mated to it on the work bench. And here it is with a SG cassette. I still need to add the SG rail to it- much grinding needed to get a bit of aluminium strip to the correct max width and allow the BG flange way. I also need to add a brass wire spring to help provide a positive location for the SG cassette. I intend the bit of bent brass rod to emerge from under one of the locating screws and it will bear on the outside of the SG cassette, but it will need to be clear if the BG rail when the SG cassette is not used... careful adjusting will be needed I think! Oh and I’ve also added lots more cosmetic chairs. Just one point and a few sleepers in plain track left to do on the first board. DrDuncan Edited April 14, 2019 by drduncan 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted April 16, 2019 Author Share Posted April 16, 2019 (edited) Added the SG rail for the cassette socket. I also managed to stick down the camping mat underlay. And yesterday I managed to do yet more cosmetic chairs, so I now have just 1/2 a turnout left to do. The next jobs are: 1. Add electrical droppers from 1/0.6 wire. These will be routed above the baseboard to the main bus behind the back scene. 2. Add cosmetic fishplates. 3. Paint rails. 4. Fit the electro magnet bolts (the bolt heads are inset into the underlay and the electro magnet hangs off them, allowing a defective magnet to be replaced if needed). 5. And then I can install the track panel! Regards DrDuncan Edited April 16, 2019 by drduncan 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted April 16, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 16, 2019 6 hours ago, drduncan said: 4. Fit the electro magnet bolts (the bolt heads are inset into the underlay and the electro magnet hangs off them, allowing a defective magnet to be replaced if needed). I do this the opposite way. I make the magnets from metal sewing machine bobbins and screw them to the boards from below, with the machine screw cutting its own thread in the wood, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Mikkel Posted April 16, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 16, 2019 On 11/04/2019 at 23:22, drduncan said: Hi Mikkel, I had a look at the test piece this afternoon and there was no sign of distortion or damage. The bond between the pvc foam board and the camping mat was good too! Duncan Thanks Duncan, I see it is now well in place too. Sleeping bags for scenery next? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold kipford Posted April 16, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 16, 2019 Quote I do this the opposite way. I make the magnets from metal sewing machine bobbins and screw them to the boards from below, with the machine screw cutting its own thread in the wood, D this is the same way we do it on Hope. If you put the bolt head on top it needs to be very positively anchored to prevent the head spinning. The posh way is to put a 6 mm tee nut in the top of the board instead of letting the bolt cut a manky thread. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted April 17, 2019 Author Share Posted April 17, 2019 (edited) Chaps, Many thanks for the comments and suggestions. I had had thought long and hard about screwing in from the bottom, but using foam insulation as the baseboard and pvc foam board as the track base seem to preclude this - I have doubts about self tapping screws lasting beyond one removal of a coil, hence my thoughts about hanging them from above, which would also allow a bigger area for weight distribution. I completely agree about the importance of stopping the bolt spinning. I had been thinking about either using a lock nut between the coil and the track base, or a lot of expoy adhesive! I confess I hadn’t thought of a tee nut, which is an excellent idea if I can force them home into the foam board. I shall experiment and report back! Regards Duncan Edited April 17, 2019 by drduncan 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted April 17, 2019 Author Share Posted April 17, 2019 15 hours ago, Mikkel said: Thanks Duncan, I see it is now well in place too. Sleeping bags for scenery next? Well carpet underlay makes very good long grass, so not quite sleeping bags but close (ish)! D Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted April 29, 2019 Author Share Posted April 29, 2019 I have finished adding cosmetic chairs to the first baseboard, so I’ve moved on to adding the power supply droppers. It’s my intention to run two separate leads to each piece of rail, however the amount of short rail sections in the common and k crossings in the points and diamond may limit this. On the plus side the common crossing components were all electrically bonded in construction so I hope just two leads will suffice. I also took delivery of the above board servo mounts for the points. And put in position on the left hand baseboard. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted April 30, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 30, 2019 6 hours ago, drduncan said: I have finished adding cosmetic chairs to the first baseboard, so I’ve moved on to adding the power supply droppers. It’s my intention to run two separate leads to each piece of rail, however the amount of short rail sections in the common and k crossings in the points and diamond may limit this. On the plus side the common crossing components were all electrically bonded in construction so I hope just two leads will suffice. I also took delivery of the above board servo mounts for the points. And put in position on the left hand baseboard. Two wires per rail isn't really necessary. If one fails you won't know until the second fails too, so you haven't actually got any redundancy. Save time, space and wire by just using one! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted April 30, 2019 Author Share Posted April 30, 2019 Good point! Thanks. D 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted May 11, 2019 Author Share Posted May 11, 2019 A hopefully minor disaster. Went to stick down some pvc foamex track bed on the second board and watched the knauf sub base surface dissolve into something like a lunar landscape! Seems the new evostick impact adhesive wasn’t the same as the old tin I used up a couple of weeks ago... Im sure I can salvage the baseboard, just not sure of the amount of work it will take or how much further it will put me behind schedule. Duncan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold kipford Posted May 12, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 12, 2019 Duncan, I used Copydex on Brighton, available from Wilko in 125ml bottles. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted May 12, 2019 Author Share Posted May 12, 2019 Hi Dave, im going to use copydex for the track to camping mat. Just struggling to work out how I managed to get a non solvent free evostick. I’m thinking of cutting out the damage and either turning the damaged bit upside down and sticking it back to the remaining undamaged bit or constructing a replacement sub base of ply/pvc foamex D 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold kipford Posted May 12, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 12, 2019 Try a test piece with PVA. Also did I ever show you this, 3D WL model best I could do from the shonky lines drawings of the Briggs schooner. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted May 12, 2019 Author Share Posted May 12, 2019 Hi Dave, No you hadn’t shown me the 3D of the Brigg. It certainly look better than my attempts with other drawings so far. Is it worth getting it printed/cut or not in your opinion? D Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold kipford Posted May 12, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 12, 2019 D I am tempted to slot and tab an internal frame kit, get Jonathan to cut them out in thin ply or mdf, then plank it with balsa. Any discontinuity could then be sanded out. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted June 9, 2019 Author Share Posted June 9, 2019 Dave, As discussed at the club a while ago (sorry not checked this thread for a bit), that sounds like an awesome plan. Duncan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted June 9, 2019 Author Share Posted June 9, 2019 So work/life has prevented much physical progress over the last few weeks. I have however been busy CADing a GWR U9 and U10 6w composite. Yes, I know they aren’t BG or convertible stock but they only have a tumblehome at the sides not sides and ends which has made them easier to cut my teeth on. Once finished I’ll move on to convertible 6w stock. Today, I got 45mins in the attic and continuity tested the l/h board track. My soldering was both neat and effective hopefully disproving Chris S’s view that I shouldn’t be allowed near electrics after he spent last Thursday club night repairing the rushed bodged soldering on my portable test track. I think he was wondering just what had happened to ordinary solder! DrDuncan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted August 20, 2019 Author Share Posted August 20, 2019 (edited) So since the last update I’ve painted the track for the left baseboard, removed it from the work board and temporarily installed it to mark out the wiring runs and turnout operating runs. To lift the track off the work board I used a very thin cake slice. Kate is currently wondering where it went. I’ve also (finally) cut the hole for the fold up control panel. My prevarication was ended by Kipford taking pity and lending me a plunge cutter to do the job. This led me to think about the Powercab panel position and the plunge cutter made light work of it. It also occurred to me that the empty space when the control panel is down could be used to make a holder for the Powercab handset. Some final finishing of the edges is still to be done. Finally, with the work board clear the track plan for the right baseboard has been stuck down and I’ve started cutting sleepers to length ready for staining. Duncan Edited August 20, 2019 by drduncan 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie586 Posted August 21, 2019 Share Posted August 21, 2019 (edited) The track looks excellent. Have you got an overall track plan? Edited August 21, 2019 by Charlie586 typo 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Mikkel Posted August 21, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 21, 2019 Good to see progress. The cake slice is an excellent idea for moving track. Must see if I can sneak ours out of the kitchen :-) 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted August 21, 2019 Author Share Posted August 21, 2019 9 hours ago, Charlie586 said: The track looks excellent. Have you got ano overall track plan? 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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