Jump to content
 

A forum area specifically and only for recording ideas and progress of individual's challenge entries in accordance with the challenge.

Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Gold
On 08/04/2019 at 20:29, drduncan said:

Done a test piece of camping mat and foam board using unibond impact glue to make sure the adhesive doesn’t melt/destroy either part.

 

This sounds interesting, DD. Have you drawn any conclusions yet?

  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

So today, with the help of no1 son (aged 5), I have been making the mixed gauge cassette connector for the layout baseboard.

 

4BFC56D4-0979-4176-A7E6-E3BB76C8A4AE.jpeg.402a326000883a540d72a7ca277f10fe.jpegHere it is with a BG cassettes mated to it on the work bench.

 

1B8B700D-2B82-43EF-9EFA-A9FDE4BFFAEF.jpeg.4e570ea41b5ce4180281b3ee4596f559.jpeg

 

And here it is with a SG cassette.  I still need to add the SG rail to it- much grinding needed to get a bit of aluminium strip to the correct max width and allow the BG flange way.  I also need to add a brass wire spring to help provide a positive location for the SG cassette. I intend the bit of bent brass rod to emerge from under one of the locating screws and it will bear on the outside of the SG cassette, but it will need to be clear if the BG  rail when the SG cassette is not used... careful adjusting will be needed I think!

 

Oh and I’ve also added lots more cosmetic chairs.  Just one point and a few sleepers in plain track left to do on the first board. 

 

DrDuncan

Edited by drduncan
  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Added the SG rail for the cassette socket.

 

9E576A76-5299-4C6E-A767-EF4319ED8C32.jpeg.0133f1c783375d1857b2b1f555249c06.jpeg

 

I also managed to stick down the camping mat underlay.

 

8B7C5A12-B0B3-47C7-A631-9D43D5561F35.jpeg.f3e25362a7c4dc6d8d278551cf23ada8.jpeg

 

And yesterday I managed to do yet more cosmetic chairs, so I now have just 1/2 a turnout left to do.

 

The next jobs are:

1. Add electrical droppers from 1/0.6 wire. These will be routed above the baseboard to the main bus behind the back scene.

2. Add cosmetic fishplates.

3. Paint rails.

4. Fit the electro magnet bolts (the bolt heads are inset into the underlay and the electro magnet hangs off them, allowing a defective magnet to be replaced if needed).

5. And then I can install the track panel!

 

Regards

DrDuncan

Edited by drduncan
  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
6 hours ago, drduncan said:

4. Fit the electro magnet bolts (the bolt heads are inset into the underlay and the electro magnet hangs off them, allowing a defective magnet to be replaced if needed).

I do this the opposite way. I make the magnets from metal sewing machine bobbins and screw them to the boards from below, with the machine screw cutting its own thread in the wood,

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
On 11/04/2019 at 23:22, drduncan said:

Hi Mikkel,

 

I had a look at the test piece this afternoon and there was no sign of distortion or damage.  The bond between the pvc foam board and the camping mat was good too!

Duncan

 

 

 

Thanks Duncan,  I see it is now well in place too.  Sleeping bags for scenery next? :D

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
Quote

I do this the opposite way. I make the magnets from metal sewing machine bobbins and screw them to the boards from below, with the machine screw cutting its own thread in the wood,

 

D this is the same way we do it on Hope. If you put the bolt head on top it needs to be very positively anchored to prevent the head spinning. The posh way is to put a 6 mm tee nut in the top of the board instead of letting the bolt cut a manky thread.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

 Chaps,

 

Many thanks for the comments and suggestions.  

 

I had had thought long and hard about screwing in from the bottom, but using foam insulation as the baseboard and pvc foam board as the track base seem to preclude this - I have doubts about self tapping screws lasting beyond one removal of a coil, hence my thoughts about hanging them from above, which would also allow a bigger area for weight distribution.  I completely agree about the importance of stopping the bolt spinning.  I had been thinking about either using a lock nut between the coil and the track base, or a lot of expoy adhesive!  

 

I confess I hadn’t thought of a tee nut, which is an excellent idea if I can force them home into the foam board. I shall experiment and report back!

 

Regards

 

Duncan

Edited by drduncan
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, Mikkel said:

 

Thanks Duncan,  I see it is now well in place too.  Sleeping bags for scenery next? :D

 

Well carpet underlay makes very good long grass, so not quite sleeping bags but close (ish)!

D

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I have finished adding cosmetic chairs to the first baseboard, so I’ve moved on to adding the power supply droppers.  It’s my intention to run two separate leads to each piece of rail, however the amount of short rail sections in the common and k crossings in the points and diamond may limit this.  On the plus side the common crossing components were all electrically bonded in construction so I hope just two leads will suffice.

 

I also took delivery of the above board servo mounts for the points.  

B213DC55-FBB9-46E8-8C70-73B52E9414C3.jpeg.d8939e6238e4fd1228d9f8643aef5939.jpeg

 

12DD0719-326B-4C09-8832-57E153471279.jpeg.4d3eb98549c35e26734b67d79ff2e465.jpeg

 

And put in position on the left hand baseboard.

 

D3E22EE0-5F6E-4511-B2D8-3116ABB8D4EE.jpeg.0ab399b518668fcf67fc56f672905ab4.jpeg

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
6 hours ago, drduncan said:

I have finished adding cosmetic chairs to the first baseboard, so I’ve moved on to adding the power supply droppers.  It’s my intention to run two separate leads to each piece of rail, however the amount of short rail sections in the common and k crossings in the points and diamond may limit this.  On the plus side the common crossing components were all electrically bonded in construction so I hope just two leads will suffice.

 

I also took delivery of the above board servo mounts for the points.  

B213DC55-FBB9-46E8-8C70-73B52E9414C3.jpeg.d8939e6238e4fd1228d9f8643aef5939.jpeg

 

12DD0719-326B-4C09-8832-57E153471279.jpeg.4d3eb98549c35e26734b67d79ff2e465.jpeg

 

And put in position on the left hand baseboard.

 

D3E22EE0-5F6E-4511-B2D8-3116ABB8D4EE.jpeg.0ab399b518668fcf67fc56f672905ab4.jpeg

Two wires per rail isn't really necessary. If one fails you won't know until the second fails too, so you haven't actually got any redundancy. Save time, space and wire by just using one!

  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

A hopefully minor disaster.  Went to stick down some pvc foamex track bed on the second board and watched the knauf sub base surface dissolve into something like a lunar landscape!  

 

Seems the new evostick impact adhesive wasn’t the same as the old tin I used up a couple of weeks ago...

 

 

Im sure I can salvage the baseboard, just not sure of the amount of work it will take or how much further it will put me behind schedule.

Duncan

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Dave,

im going to use copydex for the track to camping mat. Just struggling to work out how I managed to get a non solvent free evostick.

 

I’m thinking of cutting out the damage and either turning the damaged bit upside down and sticking it back to the remaining undamaged bit or constructing a replacement sub base of ply/pvc foamex 

D

  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Try a test piece with PVA. Also did I ever show you this, 3D WL model best I could do from the shonky lines drawings of the Briggs schooner. 

Capture.JPG.99b9ec43f8d85f48ff29f3d0f20cc8c3.JPG

 

191915972_Image1.jpg.92cf9c6ddfb590b2f4065677b9814a8b.jpg

404163951_Image2.jpg.49bd3a7abbf17a887182487a58bb6375.jpg

 

712209465_Image3.jpg.24fab0eb8e5f21dc675ba6a3842cc487.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Dave,

 

No you hadn’t shown me the 3D of the Brigg.  It certainly look better than my attempts with other drawings so far.  Is it worth getting it printed/cut or not in your opinion?

D

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

D

I am tempted to slot and tab an internal frame kit, get  Jonathan to cut them out in thin ply or mdf, then plank it with balsa. Any discontinuity could then be sanded out.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

So work/life has prevented much physical progress over the last few weeks.  I have however been busy CADing a GWR U9 and U10 6w composite.  Yes, I know they aren’t BG or convertible stock but they only have a tumblehome at the sides not sides and ends which has made them easier to cut my teeth on.  Once finished I’ll move on to convertible 6w stock.

 

Today, I got 45mins in the attic and continuity tested the l/h board track.  My soldering was both neat and effective hopefully disproving Chris S’s view that I shouldn’t be allowed near electrics after he spent last Thursday club night repairing the rushed bodged soldering on my portable test track.  I think he was wondering just what had happened to ordinary solder!

 

DrDuncan

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

So since the last update I’ve painted the track for the left baseboard, removed it from the work board and temporarily installed it to mark out the wiring runs and turnout operating runs.

 

D42B5841-000E-44B2-B36D-F975F4BD409A.jpeg.8c6d79fbc9af4c66bf222d192f1de97c.jpeg

 

To lift the track off the work board I used a very thin cake slice. Kate is currently wondering where it went.

 

I’ve also (finally) cut the hole for the fold up control panel. My prevarication was ended by Kipford taking pity and lending me a plunge cutter to do the job.  This led me to think about the Powercab panel position and the plunge cutter made light work of it.  It also occurred to me that the empty space when the control panel is down could be used to make a holder for the Powercab handset.  

 

7F4B0F40-0203-4E6A-A778-7094E7582D5E.jpeg.c0bc8a80dea4fe0ca6d2bcf1dc29ec41.jpeg

 

Some final finishing of the edges is still to be done.

 

Finally, with the work board clear the track plan for the right baseboard has been stuck down and I’ve started cutting sleepers to length ready for staining.

 

Duncan

Edited by drduncan
  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...