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Ian's 7mm workbench - recent photos


Hal Nail
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Agree about the wall thickness with brass.  The glazing pops into the apertures on the Dapol coach so you do get flush glazing.  My intent was to provide an idea of the interior.  Lights are not planned for this coach either.

 

The seats in the coach are kind of crude too.  I made the moquette by printing a pattern I found on line onto sticky address label paper.

 

I got seats for my Gresley coaches from Invertrain.  These look pretty good to me.  Pricey things though.

 

John

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If you were doing any alterations to a 14xx or 58xx,I would definatly buy/steal/read through "Petos Register Of Great Western Locomotives"as it givesany amount of photos and detailsincluding what boiler was fitted when and when topfeeds were fitted.Also allocations and dates.

 

ATB

Phil.

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1 hour ago, 34006 said:

If you were doing any alterations to a 14xx or 58xx,I would definatly buy/steal/read through "Petos Register Of Great Western Locomotives"as it givesany amount of photos and detailsincluding what boiler was fitted when and when topfeeds were fitted.Also allocations and dates.

 

ATB

Phil.

Hi, 

Many thanks - yes I've never seen it but have had the odd fact looked up

 

Fortunately 1419 was relatively easy as loads of photos around and it stayed the same all through BR!

 

Ian

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On 16/05/2020 at 22:11, brossard said:

I did some interior detailing on the coach I have:

 

I didn't think about thickness though. 

 

John

 

John,

 

If you still have this coach to hand could you please tell me the measurement outside to outside of a pair of the larger side windows? I like these older auto trailers but there were only actually 5 or 6 of this diagram. I think I could turn one into a more common diagram L 70 footer by adding in a pair of windows in the rear vestibule so been playing around with that idea.

 

Is the chassis "base" metal? It is for the B sets but dont know if these were the same. 

 

CPL make etches for the L so might actually be easier to just build theirs but i quite fancy the idea of bashing one from this model for something a bit different. Theoretically the donor could make 3 which would make it a little more palatable! 

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I make the large windows 26 x 15mm, if that's what you mean.  There are toplights above.

 

I can't say with certainly that the underframe is metal.  Lionheart make a lot of use of metal and Dapol's RTR wagons (since the merger) tend to have diecast underframes.

 

I got some CPL compartment interior kits for my Kirk coaches.  My coaches are not GWR but I think the CPL stuff is close enough.

 

John

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51 minutes ago, brossard said:

I make the large windows 26 x 15mm, if that's what you mean.  There are toplights above.

 

I can't say with certainly that the underframe is metal.  Lionheart make a lot of use of metal and Dapol's RTR wagons (since the merger) tend to have diecast underframes.

 

 

Thanks. so two of them would be 52mm plus say 10mm in between and to one side = c62. The Lionheart/Dapol one is a 60 footer so i'd need to be adding 70mm - its not going to be too far off

 

They were built a year apart and basically the same window arrangement with one having 2 extra windows so i was guessing they are generally the same dimensions but I should invest in a book before i get too far into this! 

 

Suspect the biggest problem would be the roof rain strips which id have to carve off and replace with the right curve.

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You're a braver man than me to go hacking up a rather expensive coach.  Of course, the one I have I have in my possession belongs to a friend.  I'm supposed to weather it.  Good luck.

 

John

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I've been watching a used autocoach on eBay all week with this conversion in mind. It was just over £100 this morning and since they are currently going for £160 new from Rails, I thought i might pick one up at a price I could justify the conversion if I sold off the spare bogies and buffers etc.

 

It eventually sold for £204. Words fail me!

Edited by Hal Nail
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1 hour ago, Hal Nail said:

I've been watching a used autocoach on eBay all week with this conversion in mind. It was just over £100 this morning and since they are currently going for £160 new from Rails, I thought i might pick one up at a price I could justify the conversion if I sold off the spare bogies and buffers etc.

 

It eventually sold for £204. Words fail me!

I'm lucky that the Dapol factory is not too far away and I visit when I'm off to the Borders MRC  monthly running day (not at present I hasten to add).

 

There are often bargains to be picked up.

 

My blood and custard autocoach cost £100 because it was missing the front footsteps. (they were subsequently found loose in the box).

 

I suspect that when the lock down is over that there will be a lot of returns and seconds up for grabs.

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18 minutes ago, Happy Hippo said:

I'm lucky that the Dapol factory is not too far away and I visit when I'm off to the Borders MRC  monthly running day (not at present I hasten to add).

 

There are often bargains to be picked up.

I might e mail them and ask if they ever get badly damaged ones given I only need half a body.

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I picked a Lionheart brake composite on Ebay which arrived today and it has already yielded a couple of buffers and bogie steps to finish the brake third that I did a while back.

 

The plan is to turn the new one into K40 full brake. Near enough the same chassis but body 3 inches narrower so I need to investigate if the profile was the same or slightly less bulged at the waist.

 

A cut and shut would need 3 brake ends and a lot of joining so I've ruled that out and similarly resin casting probably isnt worth it.

 

I had originally intended to try thin plasticard overlays but as soon as I have to move the underlying windows, the relative ease of that is lost. Since there is merit reusing the old sides for something else (eg c61 all third, if I can get yet another single coach), I think replacement scratch built sides is the answer and I'm tempted to design an etch.

 

It's a shame you cant get the brake thirds quite as easily or as cheaply as the composites, as they are more useful having evenly spaced compartments and roof ribs.

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Brake 3rd nearly finished. At some point I will replace the fogged guards window - its surprisingly tricky dropping the window bars in place but I didn't notice until today. The rest are just the light catching them - the camera may never lie but my eyes don't always agree with it! In respect of the proposed full brake though, I don't think i'll bother to reuse the Dapol glazing so it's increasingly looking like brass makes sense.

 

DCC supplies have just said they do sell autocoach bodies separately but at £90 and I'd need glazing so I think I'll hang on for a 2nd hand coach. I have learned that the underframe is part of the body moulding which hadn't occurred to me as I've got used to the B set design of sides screwed to a separate chassis. Might be a help in the case of extending the autocoach if i'm not too picky about rivet positions.

 

DSC_0024s.jpg.670642459f09d9e8c57b36c4adfd833a.jpgDSC_0041s.jpg.49fe58469e114ee5ede4e2fd5865fbaa.jpgDSC_0033s.jpg.ab74b8e297316d612de5756187d8c126.jpg

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Quick project from last night and today. 

 

Step 1 - Citadel "Typhus corrosion" dabbled on

479344981_S13small.jpg.a2701acf4318630105cb8180db7583a7.jpg

 

Step 2 Cryla acrylic "Burnt Umber" roughly painted over

913891976_S24small.jpg.9db91fb7020f178668cd532c1d2fac3e.jpg 

Step 3 cotton bud dipped in enamel thinners used to remove the above layers. Some comes off easily some sticks which is what you want but go steady to test. I roughed it a little with sandpaper as well.

289410878_S33small.jpg.457cdc95998ee21474bb1e36c60f591e.jpg

 

Step 4 - a wash of your usual underframe colour (even thinner on the body). I use precision frame dirt but black and leather mixed is the same.

1925519390_Fin1small.jpg.f5bc0a462f50c12c9640a9cd2ffaaca2.jpg 

475509550_Finsmall2.jpg.fdc61deea3b0cb4295ac49b8da4e08a2.jpg

 

174388762_Finsmall3.jpg.0dd9eb9823f4ea89d1196e6ed6005868.jpg

 

Edited by Hal Nail
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Been putting pressfix transfers on a pig iron wagon I've had for years which was incredibly fiddly - suspect i need new glasses for close up - but did a pretty pleasing job. Then sealed with matt varnish which dried milky and in trying to work thinners into it, I shifted all the transfers (and broke one of the brake guides off). Quite annoyed to put it mildly. Have got the numbers roughly back in position and will touch up with black paint and then weather it. I hadn't thinned the underframe wash enough either so will have to do something about that too. 

 

Had been rained on all morning seeing my sister for first time since lockdown as well. Perhaps getting a bad day out of the way and Albion with thrash Birmingham tomorrow!

 

pig_iron.jpg.6024882d0df7bfb13e40ecf1f4d95f4c.jpg

 

 

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Testor's Dullcote is pretty reliable and I've used it for years without mishap.  May be a moot point because I hear Testor's products are going to be discontinued.  No idea what I'll do without the varnishes.  :(

 

John

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Bit of black paint has helped and doesn't look so bad in natural light. Will do some light weathering later to hide the rest. I quite like this little wagon and must be one of the first kits I made but it doesn't really fit in to my late 50s Cornwall theme!

 

1270169875_pigiron0062small.jpg.083abe05264b4e54a4f422408f8c557a.jpg561621010_pigiron63small.jpg.d54701615240eb0bc10b65ec4efc660f.jpg

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As Eric said to Ern, you cannot see the join.

 

Humbrol varnish has taken a lot of stick for a while now I think for yellowing etc.  Probably since production moved to China.  I've had some bad paint , no thinners in the tin just pigment, wrong colour, it's quite frustrating when you just want to finish something off.  Its a shame because I would always prefer something made in the UK.

 

Testor's is now my goto and Revell is easily available.  I now have a good selection of Vallejo, its a shame Humbrol have fallen so far behind, although I am sure many will disagree.

 

Looking very nice.

 

ATB  Phillip

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Thanks guys. Will try some others - Humbrol is just a habit since childhood Airfix days. I really ought to explore acrylics as well.

 

As I usually have to chuck half the tin away of most of the ones I use, I should probably should look into decanting into screw jars. Having said that I opened a brand new screw jar of rust the other day and it had set, so maybe makes no difference.

 

To be fair matt varnish tends to be gloopy at the best of times and since I only ever use it to seal transfers, I just thin it right down and put the bare minimum on. This was a typical case of rushing and has reminded me why we develop techniques that work!

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Yep I did the same, went out and bought a selection of Humbrol enamels just like I always did.  Most of my painting is now precision for the railway colours and Vallejo for the rest. So far Vallejo hasn't settled, it is in a nice eye dropper bottle, I just get a tiny droplet on a palette ( bit of plastic packaging).  It mixes easily with water for a wash and if it does settle in the future I will try adding a ball bearing to the bottle.

 

The heart just sinks when finish goes tits up.

 

Phillip

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I've had some fun with rattle cans over the years. Primer invariably fine, first main coat nearly always goes on like a dream, the "i'll just dust over a nice top coat" either splats out like frozen treacle or forms a lake somewhere.

 

To be fair this hasn't happened for a while and the problem might have been on the other side of the can to the model!

 

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