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Ian's 7mm workbench - recent photos


Hal Nail
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9 minutes ago, woodyfox said:

Have you tried pva dabbed on instead of salt? There's some good guides on You Tube using this method on old cars. I've used it on a 16 tonner myself. 

Im pretty happy with the salt effect now and like the jagged edges you get although I still prefer my other way of applying acrylic paint over a hard finish and removing most.

 

It's the rust colour that isnt there. The dark is fine as a base but it needs more fresher "orangey" stuff but I've not cracked that tone yet.

 

Im out of wagons but will stock up when they re-run them. With hindsight should have bought in bulk when you used to get a discount as they go for stupid money on ebay now.

 

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When I've used salt (perhaps I should have used the coarse stuff instead of table), removing it is pretty brutal, sometimes taking off the underlying paint.

 

To fix that and improve the look of some rust spots, I dabbed on some rust paint and sprinkled rust powder while still wet.  Then use a dry brush to streak it.

 

So, how many steel mineral wagons do you need?  I've got 4 (all different) and I think that's enough.

 

John

 

 

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1 hour ago, brossard said:

So, how many steel mineral wagons do you need?  I've got 4 (all different) and I think that's enough.

 

The salt was still damp when I sprayed the grey enamel over and I brushed most of it off before the grey was really hard.

 

I've only actually kept one. I made the fatal mistake of adding up what my stock had cost so decided not to buy anything new for a while and have fun doing up what I had, before selling things on.

 

I've kept one riveted that I rescued and will do a welded for me eventually.

 

Edited by Hal Nail
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You don't want to be adding up the cost of your stuff, you'll scare yourself.  I don't think about it and, like you, just enjoy the experience.

 

I did do a Parkside 1/108.  I also did three, including a 1/109 (rivetted) and 2 ex LMS, from MMP.  I did manage to build the bodies OK but the underframes defeated me :angry:.  I susbstituted Peco underframes which are very good IMO.

 

John

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11 hours ago, brossard said:

You don't want to be adding up the cost of your stuff, you'll scare yourself.  I don't think about it and, like you, just enjoy the experience.

 

I did do a Parkside 1/108.  I also did three, including a 1/109 (rivetted) and 2 ex LMS, from MMP.  I did manage to build the bodies OK but the underframes defeated me :angry:.  I susbstituted Peco underframes which are very good IMO.

 

John

I found the MMP mineral chassis highly accurate in terms of etches interlocking. The major issue i had was that i buckled the fine etches due to excess heat from the iron and couldn't keep the build flat enough. All my own fault. If i do MMP wagons again I'll use the iron on about 250 instead of 350!

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56 minutes ago, woodyfox said:

I found the MMP...

Now for many years I have been convinced that mr mmp has an extensive spy network - like a sort of modelling secret police - that picks up whenever his kits are discussed. 

 

We shall soon see if I have a mole :)

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I totally agree that MMP kits are superb.  :drinks:I have a lot of experience with etched kits so thought I could tackle the MMP underframes.  I was wrong and it all went pear shaped when I tried to make the leaf springs work.  I felt that using the Peco underframe would get me where I needed to be.  I'm happy with the results.

 

John

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The small fleet of Dapol/Lionheart mineral wagons is finished. I ended up very carefully repainting over the grey using a fine brush, as the JLTRT rattle can I had used didn't look right to me. I have a old Peco kit to build which will make an older bottom door variant but will be finished in pretty good nick, based on a photo I found of one at St Blazey.

 

DSC_0009s.jpg.68ddca7993c69de667cb06ce9ae64d45.jpg62633156_DSC_0013(2)s.jpg.a8d07d32f7117661e152b013520cc54f.jpgDSC_0018s.jpg.6a0ed138e29446431580579ffeed8e4e.jpg1659749703_DSC_0022(2)s.jpg.e49562760d1aa3860791e8b7ec70559c.jpg

Edited by Hal Nail
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Continuing with the theme of 9 foot wheelbase mineral wagons, I have finally kick-started a project to build a rake of china clay wagons by adding end doors and altering the strapping buffers and brake levers on the old Cooper Craft 5 plank. I will also be doing the BR version.

 

I have accumulated three made up 5 planks, one 7 plank I could convert and 4 unmade kits. This particular one was one of my first kits and I'll probably do the works on this in terms of bolt heads (not sure yet whether rod through holes, or just slivers of rod) but I think the rest will have tarps so I'm only going to sort the bottom couple of planks worth.

 

I do like these Peco self contained buffers but they aren't cheap. On that note, I'm missing 2 plastic shanks. These are unused parts in Peco's 4 plank and permanent way wagons I think, so if anyone has a couple spare please let me know!  

 

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Edited by Hal Nail
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On 27/10/2020 at 12:29, brossard said:

I totally agree that MMP kits are superb.  :drinks:I have a lot of experience with etched kits so thought I could tackle the MMP underframes.  I was wrong and it all went pear shaped when I tried to make the leaf springs work.  I felt that using the Peco underframe would get me where I needed to be.  I'm happy with the results.

 

John

MMP kit with real rust from Delux Materials20201108_125313.jpg.9c9ef29ecef3d72e6afb793e71a529f8.jpg

Nick

Edited by Nicktoix
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Nearly there on the first 013 china clay. I saw some of these on a layout years ago and the guy said it was a lot of work: he wasn't exaggerating. The bolts on the door banger straps were carved off another wagon but I lost the will to live and drew the rest on! The brakes and end door hinges were all from the spares box - will need to find a load more for another 6 wagons (anyone know a source of 9ft brake levers?). I just need to put in a false floor with the planks running lengthways in this one.

 

Paint shop next. 

 

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Edited by Hal Nail
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  • Hal Nail changed the title to Ian's 7mm workbench - china clay wagons
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58 minutes ago, 2ManySpams said:

Nice work. Are the Peco self-contained buffers available separately?

Thanks! Yes see photo. As an aside, the plastic bit showing is just cut from one of their chassis sprues which makes both me and my spares box weep at the wastage.

20201112_130423.jpg.b8787a67ce9c96cdd279630c2d0d4f5d.jpg

Edited by Hal Nail
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38 minutes ago, brossard said:

The wagon really looks good, as usual.  You didn't say which kit it is.

 

The wagon appears to be unfitted yet has tiebars, I'm curious about that.  Y'see I do notice stuff sometimes.

 

John

Cheers!

 

Its the old Cooper Craft 5 plank, now sold by Slaters. The original bagged ones had moulded buffers and since I needed to replace with self-contained anyway, I've been picking the kits up whenever I saw one going cheap. I must have had this particular one over 30 years and the hinges came with my first ever wagon before that!

 

Yes oddly these did have rod type tie bars. They were built with those unique to GWR (?) brake levers right at the end but did have tie bars even back then. I cant remember which exact flavour they were to start with but they ended up with independent brakes and normal levers. That said the best photo I have is a rare one with a Morton clutch.

 

Decent photos are quite scarce and aside from the very similar BR built fitted version, I'm pretty sure there were some similar ex private owners kicking around as well which didn't have tie bars. With a cover on and the whole lot white, it's often hard to identify what type you are looking at in photos taken from any sort of distance.

Edited by Hal Nail
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I get that, I built a Coopercraft GWR 3 plank some time ago.  I actually drilled out the buffers and used spare buffer heads to get them working.  I should have got better ones to save some effort.

 

Interesting that these had tiebars.  There never seem to be hard and fast rules in this business.

 

John

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2 minutes ago, brossard said:

Interesting that these had tiebars.  There never seem to be hard and fast rules in this business.

 

John

Just occured to me, I wonder if its to do with them being operated on end tippers at Fowey? That would probably have put additional strain on the underframe?

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