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When TT3 was the next Big Thing


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Someone had asked about the turntable where it had come from and size so it is a London Road models LNWR 50' 00 model. I have cut the sides down in width but everything else is as per the kit. I had to go for one I could fit in the location and I knew a Britannia and M/N would fit I was unsure about an A4 and Duchess so checked last night and as you can see there is about 3mm in total spare on the deck for their wheelbase. 

 

Garry 

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Double or single track that is the question. I have found my Bachmann 00 coaling tower and it is a good possibility for use here. They were very high so scale wise it is not an issue. If double track I will probably have to add a coal direction chute underneath as it is made just for a single line with the hoppers in the centre. This would then not need me to cut the legs down which I don't really want to do. I did look at a bid on the Hornby one just now but then discovered it is the Bachmann one under the Hornby label, it even had the same slightly bent leg as well as identical hoppers (including rivets), doors, windows and ladders, one of them must have made some models for the other.

It will be NON operational as it is a resin cast model although who knows what could be done later.

 

 

Garry

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Garry, 

Single for me looks less cluttered and more space between legs. Certainly it cuts  presence that tall is it much over scale as a lot of the buildings tend towards  HO sizing in the way the N stuff is 1:160, a normal N person has to duck for doors...

Good work regardless - and just ordered an AC railbus from Lenny.

Robert  

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28 minutes ago, Robert Shrives said:

Garry, 

Single for me looks less cluttered and more space between legs. Certainly it cuts  presence that tall is it much over scale as a lot of the buildings tend towards  HO sizing in the way the N stuff is 1:160, a normal N person has to duck for doors...

Good work regardless - and just ordered an AC railbus from Lenny.

Robert  

I am going with single track, as you say less cluttered and loosing one loco space is not too bad. As for size I have not found any dimensions for these things but it will have do as there is no alternative. The ratio one just does not do anything for me even though it is prototypical.  I have no idea which coaling tower this was based on but its shape does not help the overscale. 

 

I thought long and hard about a railbus but in the end decided no. 

 

Garry 

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4 minutes ago, rockershovel said:

Changing the wheels from those Triang sintered solid things make an enormous difference to the overall appearance, doesn’t it? 

The open spoked wheels are still Tri-ang TT and most have been in the chassis to start with and not changed. I do prefer the Tri-ang ones and used their solid Jinty ones in my WR 2-8-0.  I will be using the solid ones in my 8F and WD also.  A handful of locos which are scratchbuilt have Romfords but no matter what they look like I think the Tri-ang ones run better.  Most Tri-ang locos seen have Tri-ang wheels but I try to be selective and use the ones that had the open spokes fitted from new not changed.

 

Garry

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Someone had asked about the turntable where it had come from and size so it is a London Road models LNWR 50' 00 model. I have cut the sides down in width but everything else is as per the kit. I had to go for one I could fit in the location and I knew a Britannia and M/N would fit I was unsure about an A4 and Duchess so checked last night and as you can see there is about 3mm in total spare on the deck for their wheelbase. 

 

Garry 

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The turntable having its first test and worked well. I only showed our little one once how to line the tracks up and she managed without issue. Until I get the coaling tower I cannot do much more track laying yet. Hopefully I may be able to motorise it with the Tri-ang XT60 unit they used in  their turntable.  Due to the baseboard design and location no idea on wiring yet for all the sections. 

 

Garry 

 

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One retaining wall done, just awaiting the coping stones. The incline access track has been ballasted. At the moment it is a separate unit so baseboard to incline will be temporary as I still need to remove the shed board. I cannot do more track as awaiting a possible 3mm coaling tower kit.  

 

Garry 

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Made a good start on the scenery at the cutting end finishing the wall and getting some grass laid. Hopefully this end will be finished within a week, providing I can get some decent sky wall paper that is. I know in my mind what I want, I do have some very nice sky wall paper but hopeless at glueing it on to get a smooth finish. 

 

Garry 

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This is as much as I can do in this area for now until 1), a new back sheet is made as it is only 3mm hardboard so I want to replace with 6mm mdf, and 2), I work out how to cover the removable section to the retaining wall gap. The right hand side and over the tunnel mouth is fixed so no problem gluing material in situ over the join.

A few other areas to keep going at yet though.

 

Garry

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5 hours ago, Silverfox17 said:

how to cover the removable section to the retaining wall gap.

How about some shrubs and bushes fixed to the removable part so that they overlap the gap?

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15 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

How about some shrubs and bushes fixed to the removable part so that they overlap the gap?

That is what I want to do but would like larger scenic pieces (bushes etc) than I have due to the wider gap. It worked well on the fixed side as you can see but the pieces are actually quite small and the larger ones break up.  I may look at using some hedging and build up on that as between the fence and wall it would be overgrown. 

 

Garry 

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Another lovely 3D printed body from Lenny Seeney, a BR 03. I was hoping to use Tri-ang Jinty wheels but they are too large so will use some Romfords but a good chance I can use the XT60 as it does fit inside the body easily. I just hope the worm wheel will align with an axle otherwise it will be a small Mashima which I am not keen on.  Due to the deep buffer beams and they are moulded with the side steps I cannot use a full Tri-ang coupling so will just use the loops and screw them to beams. 

 

Garry 

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22 hours ago, Silverfox17 said:

That is what I want to do but would like larger scenic pieces (bushes etc) than I have due to the wider gap. It worked well on the fixed side as you can see but the pieces are actually quite small and the larger ones break up.  I may look at using some hedging and build up on that as between the fence and wall it would be overgrown. 

 

Garry 


 

You can make good hedges using nylon (?)  green pan scourers as a base.

 

Foilage can be added using flock or the more modern alternatives...

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44 minutes ago, Sarahagain said:


 

You can make good hedges using nylon (?)  green pan scourers as a base.

 

Foilage can be added using flock or the more modern alternatives...

Great minds think alike Sarah, I have already asked my other half to get some on her next shopping trip. 

 

Garry 

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Went up to Vectis today to collect the T8 set and really impressed. It does look unused and like new as there are no tell tale marks on the wheels of which the wagons are extremely free running, and, the track is still highly polished and more so still tied together as bought. Even the box has only one corner split. A nice bargain that completes the type B track sets for me.

 

I don't count T3 and T6 as separate due to the fact it is only the coach colour being different maroon/brown and cream.  Also T2 and T9 are the same other than the Jinty and 08 swapped over as is T4 and T10.

 

T43 I also do not include as it was never marketed by Tri-ang or in any of their catalogues, this is the Gold coloured set made specifically for Kay's catalogue.

 

Garry

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The corner section from the retaining wall to the turntable has been made and a few more trees added. I have tried some clouded sky paper on the back wall which seems to look okay, just need to add some bushes on the dip in front of the back scene and that may be it for this corner. I am in the process of experimenting covering the gap on the removable top too which will be the last item to complete this area.

 

Garry

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Bought a couple of the Peco twistlock point motors to try out.  Was not too difficult to fit with points already laid and ballasted but I had drilled a large hole under the tiebar already.  A couple of positions have a baseboard cross member in the way but will look at various options as above mounting is out of the question. 

 

I will have to see if a neat bar can be mounted on top but the Peco ones are not nice looking. 

 

Garry 

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Hello Garry,

I've also bought one try out. I bought Mark Haynes Hemyock Road layout a few years ago which has manually operated points but a couple of the vulnerably mounted slide switches got damaged the last time that I moved it. I'm hoping that I can just get the twist locks into the tight narrow space, although the track base may not be thick enough to take the mounting peg screws but at least it offers another possible solution that may allow the layout to be operated from either side in future.

 

Enjoying your layout thread.

Cheers,

Ian.

 

 

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4 hours ago, 03060 said:

Hello Garry,

I've also bought one try out. I bought Mark Haynes Hemyock Road layout a few years ago which has manually operated points but a couple of the vulnerably mounted slide switches got damaged the last time that I moved it. I'm hoping that I can just get the twist locks into the tight narrow space, although the track base may not be thick enough to take the mounting peg screws but at least it offers another possible solution that may allow the layout to be operated from either side in future.

 

Enjoying your layout thread.

Cheers,

Ian.

 

 

Hello Ian,

 

These were the first two I have tried and was worried about the distance from the frame but thankfully there was enough room.  Hope you can get yours to fit and if the board thickness is not 12mm you should hopefully be able to fit smaller screws, let us know how you get on.  I have just ordered another 10 although I know the double slip at the end of the bays is directly on a frame member so will have to come up with a solution but at least these are easy to position and fit, and, no large holes to cut in the baseboard.

 

Garry

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