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When TT3 was the next Big Thing


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Finished putting the transfers and the "247 Developments" nameplates on the B17 and Lord Nelson, just need a sunny warm day to varnish them. I do not like the Fox N gauge transfers and will be using 00 again in the future. The Lord Nelson plates need touching up as they do not have the raised beading the paint has chipped a little, plus I need to draw and get etched some valve gear for it.

 

Garry

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8 hours ago, Golden Fleece 30 said:

I do not like the Fox N gauge transfers and will be using 00 again in the future.

 

Why not use my 3mm. / TT transfers; all listed on the Cambridge Custom Transfers website?

 

John Isherwood.

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43 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

 

Why not use my 3mm. / TT transfers; all listed on the Cambridge Custom Transfers website?

 

John Isherwood.

You once told me a long time ago you did not do loco lining as there were too many different types of curves to produce a sheet.  I have seen some wagon transfers but these seem to show a carrier film around them which I don't like. Maybe the ones I saw needed cutting closer but I am not into cutting around transfers. 

 

If what I saw was something done wrong by the builder can you guarantee their is no trimming to do (apart from lengths) and no carrier film seen? 

 

Garry 

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54 minutes ago, Silverfox17 said:

You once told me a long time ago you did not do loco lining as there were too many different types of curves to produce a sheet.  I have seen some wagon transfers but these seem to show a carrier film around them which I don't like. Maybe the ones I saw needed cutting closer but I am not into cutting around transfers. 

 

If what I saw was something done wrong by the builder can you guarantee their is no trimming to do (apart from lengths) and no carrier film seen? 

 

Garry 

 

I don't, as you say, do loco lining - for the reasons that you refer to.

 

There is absolutely no need for waterslide transfers to show the carrier film, IF they are applied correctly; (my transfer instructions give detailed instructions.

 

Many modellers insist on trying to apply such transfers to matt or satin surfaces - these MUST be gloss - after sealing the transfers, whatever surface finish you require can be applied.

 

As to trimming around transfers - it's totally unnecessary! Just cut a rectangle around the chosen transfer and apply it; there will be no visible carrier film if the correct procedures are adopted.

 

The choice is yours, of course, but I offer what must be by far the widest range of transfers for 3mm. / TT models; (and all the other scales too). They are used by some of the most well-known names amongst 3mm. / TT modellers.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

https://www.cctrans.org.uk/products.htm

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44 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

 

I don't, as you say, do loco lining - for the reasons that you refer to.

John, please don't take this the wrong way and I am not being rude but your initial post to mine seems very wierd and not applicable. 

 

I was talking about lining my locos and going back to 00 from the N ones used here and you said why don't I use your 3mm ones yet you admit you don't do the lining so what was the point? 

 

The numbers and crests I use are 00 and no problem anyway. 

 

Garry 

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2 hours ago, Silverfox17 said:

John, please don't take this the wrong way and I am not being rude but your initial post to mine seems very wierd and not applicable. 

 

I was talking about lining my locos and going back to 00 from the N ones used here and you said why don't I use your 3mm ones yet you admit you don't do the lining so what was the point? 

 

The numbers and crests I use are 00 and no problem anyway. 

 

Garry 

 

Garry,

 

That may be what you thought you were talking about, but you didn't actually mention lining : -

 

"Finished putting the transfers and the "247 Developments" nameplates on the B17 and Lord Nelson, just need a sunny warm day to varnish them. I do not like the Fox N gauge transfers and will be using 00 again in the future."

 

You can perhaps see why I might have been mislead?

 

John Isherwood.

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Just received some wheels and crankpins for the WD, 8F and Z locos from the 3mm society spares. I also got a couple of the etched replacement motion brackets for the Britannia and was surprised they are all made up and painted, very good value for £5 for this item where the original does break easily.

 

Garry

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Shows the value of 3mm soc membership and the long levity of Triang parts - A big thank you to the staff of the long lost Margate factory - hours spent building batches of TT wheels , I wonder if they could imagine that the first use in "anger" would be 2021.

 

The brackets - really good I did not know they existed but next time I know where to go. 

Happy modelling.- Today could in poor taste be regarded as a "Fred West day "- been pottering with 12 bodies in the work room. - painted several bodies in 3mm and 2mm/ N today.

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19 hours ago, Robert Shrives said:

A big thank you to the staff of the long lost Margate factory - hours spent building batches of TT wheels , I wonder if they could imagine that the first use in "anger" would be 2021

I don't think these are spare Margate wheels Robert but from non runners where they get the spares from.  I am not one for people scrapping good models for profiteering but these are sold to members at very cheap prices just to help keep Tri-ang running. 

 

Garry 

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Another decision, do I put the coach roof boards above or below the cantrail? On BR Mk 1's they were on the sides above the windows, on Bulleid/Maunsell they were on the roof although higher than here. I think because they are 00 and a little over size the above cantrail would be better.

 

I decided to go for the above cantrail only because of the depth too close to the windows, and, I like the look above. Looks okay and will be easily seen when it is a stopper in York South. Headboard from 247 Developments, coach boards Fox 00 transfers on etched plates.

 

Garry

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The J52 is now awaiting its numberplate from 247 Developments then a coat of flat varnish and it will be complete.  Bodies are available from lennyapplegreen on Ebay. 

 

Fox 00 small crest and numbers were just a little too big for this so large N gauge ones were used.  The numbers and crests are far better to apply than their N gauge lining.  The number looks odd in its place high up the bunker but is as prototype.

 

Garry

J52 awaiting number plate.JPG

BR J52 68855.jpg

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Butler Henderson "completed" with the 247 Developments name and number plates. The Precision Satin varnish looks to glossy to me (as the J52 did). I may respray one day with Railmatch satin, as in the locos above, but it will be fine for now. The wheels may need touching up but it is a lovely model, especially as I was given it for nothing. I was told that this loco was never lined out in BR black during steam days although it was in preservation so I have gone for unlined.

 

Garry

Butler Henderson comp.JPG

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Fingers crossed everything fits as I planned and I should have a busy weekend with these chassis kits. With 3 to do though it might be longer than the weekend as I only get a couple of hours or so a night.  These are an SR Z class 0-8-0, 8F and 2-8-0 WD.  Lenny Seeney who does the 3D bodies has made both the 2-8-0 and 2-10-0 WD's.

 

Garry

Z class chassis etch.JPG

8F chassis etch.JPG

Z class chassis etch.JPG

Edited by Golden Fleece 30
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On 25/03/2021 at 15:31, Golden Fleece 30 said:

Butler Henderson "completed" with the 247 Developments name and number plates. The Precision Satin varnish looks to glossy to me (as the J52 did). I may respray one day with Railmatch satin, as in the locos above, but it will be fine for now. The wheels may need touching up but it is a lovely model, especially as I was given it for nothing. I was told that this loco was never lined out in BR black during steam days although it was in preservation so I have gone for unlined.

 

Garry

Butler Henderson comp.JPG

Lining must have been selectively applied to English D11s; the Scottish ones with painted names rather than cast plates appear to have all carried lined BR black. Years ago I built a model of "Princess Mary" around a Rovex 2P footplate and chassis and that too was lined black in real life so painted accordingly.

 

David

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Many years ago a friend was into TT, he was offered quite a bit of stuff form someone at work who was packing it up. This must have been 1969-1970. The collection included a load of kit-built locos and some modified pannier tanks. I don't know what happened to that lot, but my pal ended up marrying my cousin! I'll have to ask him where the stock went after all these years.

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7 hours ago, David_Belcher said:

Lining must have been selectively applied to English D11s; the Scottish ones with painted names rather than cast plates appear to have all carried lined BR black. Years ago I built a model of "Princess Mary" around a Rovex 2P footplate and chassis and that too was lined black in real life so painted accordingly.

 

David

Thats what I was told David, all Scottish ones lined and all English ones unlined.  I tried to find if any English were ever lined but no luck so went along with what I was told. 

 

Garry 

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Started the chassis's tonight and looking good so far. Hopefully get one set of valve gear done tomorrow night. Also managed to do some steps folding up on piece of nickel, the solder is to just strengthen the joints and still needs cleaning up. It will certainly make steps easier, and stronger.

 

Garry

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For those of you who model with Triang TT, can I ask a question please?  Do the Triang models run reasonably on the Peco H0m/12mm track? I have a few Triang bits I'd like to get running, but the only proper Triang track I have is pretty rusty and horrible.  

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A few minutes spare before lunch and I have modified Leonard Seeney's WD body for my Tri-ang style chassis and it fits a treat.  I do need to get some plain wheels for the tender but looking okay so far.  The tender wheels do line up but the frames are not screwed to the body yet.

 

The motor screw mount at the back will be removed and therefore nothing protruding as the motor is held in using the screw through the pole pieces and magnet.

 

Garry

WD with tender.JPG

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26 minutes ago, Ben B said:

For those of you who model with Triang TT, can I ask a question please?  Do the Triang models run reasonably on the Peco H0m/12mm track? I have a few Triang bits I'd like to get running, but the only proper Triang track I have is pretty rusty and horrible.  

The answer is loco wheels not straight away.  There are two different ways to do this. 1) move the wheels out on the axles approx 0.5mm but that can stop them going around Tri-ang track although if Tri-ang track is not going to be used again no problem.  I modify the points, straight ones are very easy and it just needs about 0.25 to 0.5 removing from the plastic checkrail only.  Double slips and curved points need a little extra work but if you look up GarryHall on YouTube you should find one or two of my videos.  My locos are nearly all Tri-ang based but if not the 00 Romfords are used.

 

Some Jinty's, and all open spoked, wheels will hit the chairs so need the flange depth reducing slightly.  

 

The stock wheels should be okay if you put a 0.5 washer in the gap.

 

 

Garry

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