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The Circle and the Stores (T-CATS)


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  • RMweb Gold

Some more progress this morning. 

 

The upper board has been adjusted to fit between the two end screens, and various point configurations played with ( though not shown in the photo).

20190907_142341.jpg.0bfe69e46bb662ba1cf2864915c5d74a.jpg

The first point will be on the bridge over the left cutting, with the longest siding along the front.  The other route will lead to another point, one siding will be parallel with the 1st, the other will be straight off the point at a shallow angle to the others.

 

A 2nd bridge over the right cutting will allow room for a visiting loco to park, awaiting removal of the incoming train by the local pilot.

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  • RMweb Gold
On 06/09/2019 at 11:46, Stubby47 said:

Side panels and one rear beam added. A 2nd higher beam will be added to connect the supporting guy wires for the loop.

 

20190906_114014.jpg.65975daa6646c07248f5fc01b40a021b.jpg

I like the concept of the folding half circle.

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  • RMweb Gold
17 minutes ago, john new said:

I like the concept of the folding half circle.

 

It works well, now I've changed the hinges for some of the firedoor variety.

I didn't want to have a separate board with just a loop on, and the temporary loop for DM4MS was not really good enough.

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  • RMweb Gold

Today I have taken delivery of some items from MERG, which will ebable the point operation to be electronically operated.

 

I've not used servos before, so this will be interesting. The intention is to mount all the gubbins behind the backscene above the baseboard height, to allow easy access for set-up and adjustment.

 

I still need to determine how to fix the pcbs to the baseboard, I've seen little plastic legs before, or clips holding the pcb's edge.

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  • RMweb Premium
34 minutes ago, Stubby47 said:

Today I have taken delivery of some items from MERG, which will ebable the point operation to be electronically operated.

 

I've not used servos before, so this will be interesting. The intention is to mount all the gubbins behind the backscene above the baseboard height, to allow easy access for set-up and adjustment.

 

I still need to determine how to fix the pcbs to the baseboard, I've seen little plastic legs before, or clips holding the pcb's edge.

Nails.

 

If you can't nail it down with an 'ammer then it is meant to move.

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1 hour ago, Stubby47 said:

I still need to determine how to fix the pcbs to the baseboard, I've seen little plastic legs before, or clips holding the pcb's edge.

 

I use nylon spacers like these off eBay. Then, I use small woodscrews into a wooden baseboard, or nuts and bolts to metal or plastic cases. A spot of superglue to attach them to the PCB first makes things easier to assemble.

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  • RMweb Gold

Thanks Ian, very helpful.  I've also noticed the PCB has pre-drilled holes for fixing, which the stripboard version didn't have (although I've just noticed there were indications where to drill fixing holes).

 

A spot of close-up soldering is on the agenda very soon - good job I got my new glasses today (and went to KMRC and managed to walk out without buying anything).

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On 03/09/2019 at 16:55, Stubby47 said:

Meanwhile, The Circle is complete.

More testing has revealed I need hinges with less movement - the gate hinges have too much slop meaning the two levels ( baseboard & loop) are not aligned.

 

 

 

 

add in some sliding door / gate bolts to force them to align.

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  • RMweb Gold

Y'know, sometimes it's easy to overthink / overdesign something.

 

I had intended to use a simple on/off switch on the control panel, to operate the MERG servo board, which would operate the servo to both move the point tie-bar and activate a micro-switch which would change the frog polarity.

 

I have the servos, I have the MERG servo mounts and microswitches.

 

However, instead I will use a 2-pole On/On switch on the panel instead. Again, this will indicate the direction of the traffic flow, but the 2nd pole will be used to directly switch the frog polarity.  Much, much simpler.

 

So, wiring-wise, I'll need one feed from each of the two point's frogs, plus a +'ve and -'ve feed to the track.  And an extra feed to the isolating section at the end of the longest siding. 

 

The power will come from a Gaugemaster Walkabout, needing a 16v ac feed in.

 

The servos' power will be fed from either a 9v dc battery, or a 12v dc regulated supply.

 

Keeping it all very simple. :)

 

I'm not even sure I'll need a control 'panel' - just a row of 3 switches should be adequate.

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  • RMweb Gold

Contemplating the point configuration. 

The lead point needs to be across the bridge to give the length to the sidings. But this puts the correct location for the servo over the lower track.

I need to find some skewers which are long enough (12") and then attempt to fit the servo to the side of the track.

 

20190913_192935.jpg.a20b54600777373879f7cda4b29dfa36.jpg

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  • RMweb Gold

Overthinking again.

 

The lead point position doesn't give much space for track for it exits off scene.

Moving the point so the tiebar is on the bridge means I then have to disguise the operating mechanism. 

 

I might look at some sort of pipework for this - there is a lot of water moved around in the clay pits area.

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