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Springsbury Croft.'O' gauge 1977-'87 era depot.


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Is that the original colour? ........I don't ever remember seeing a MK1 that wasn't orange? :)

Look Mk1's up on t'internet Phill' It's deffo' an original colour, called Horizon Blue! I always liked the Mustard coloured Mk1 Choppers but they were rarer!  Look 'Hymek' up whilst yer at it!  :jester: ....only joking!  :mosking:

Edited by Owd Bob
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Many thanks Chaps! all helpful info' is most welcome and taken into my thick bonce! I'm not sure if i'll need any more brick papers on this project yet, i think i've enough left over for a retaining wall all along the back scene but most walls from now on will be stone built....famous last words! I got the base for the shed cut, glued and all squared up and the paper stuck on last eve' there's still a lot to do but at least it's come out nice and square and level. I also got more detailing done on the fueling point, and i painted up the storage tanks again, i'll have a few days off now as its nearly 'detailin' & 'weathrin' time.   :O  So it's best to stop for a while and think about those jobs. :D Anyone know what the maker & type of wagon this is please? I got it the other day from the model shop in with a lot of bits & bobs, i thought it would be ok for hanging around the depot and being filled up with rubbish.  :)

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Edited by Owd Bob
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Guest ShildonShunter

Bob really nice work on the engine shed and tanks and I love the refuelling depot great modelling a really interesting thread.

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Rain stopped my plans of playing trains outside today, so i stayed in and cut and glued the inspection pit on the loco' shed base this morn' ;) Made a breeze block type looking walls for the insides of the pit out of some thick (scored with a Stanley blade) plastic card. I'll prime it up in Grey etch later. Used up my plasticard sheet of bricks on the inside shed walls, it's only going to be White washed or painted a pale Green anyway.

I would like to put some working lights in the pit and in the shed and fueling point roofs, if anyone can please point me towards some nice small ones...maybe LED's??? :good:

 

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Hi Bob

 

Have a look at:

 

https://scalescenes.com/product/r002c-inspection-pit/

 

The inspection pit "kit" is a free download and there is a link to suitable rectangular leds.

 

To use for O gauge at 7mm scale, download the OO version and print at 175% size.  It's easy to tailor the prints to your own needs.

 

Another option for fluorescent type lights is:

 

http://www.expressmodels.co.uk/acatalog/FLUORESCENT_TYPE_LED_LAMPS.html

 

Regards.

Edited by 66C
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Wow! 66C, there's some lovely links there! Many thanks for posting them! Looks like it's time to start a list of detailing wants now :mail: I got the fueling point and shed started with the weathering, there's still a lot to do in the detailing, especially inside and outside of the engine shed. ....but i'm getting there :derisive: I mixed 50/50 pound shop matt Black(Blackboard type) with Humbrol Matt Brown No. 68. to use on the fueling point. What i thought was a pale Grey was used on the shed but in daylight it looks to be a very pale Green, but its a mistake i like and can leave and work around. :)

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I'm only using any Humbrol products i get for free or cheap these days...and its a real risk using them. Up to now i've been lucky, their matt stuff often comes out shiney even after stirring 'till mi arms drop orf! And the Gloss stays sticky and never dries.  :threaten:   

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Hi bob use acrylics I use them all the time .weathering powders add that little extra too .And when you can get an air brush phil

An air brush is being bought as we speak but collected in 'bits at a time' phil' :jester:  The only shop local to me sells Tamiya paints..mainly military colours, are they any use phil?  :scratchhead: Edited to ad latest pic' now with track fitted and Black paint done.

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Edited by Owd Bob
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Like Pete 75C and others - I never particularly liked Brick papers in the past. I used to prefer embossed plastic card sheets, because I like the relief of the mortar courses
However, there are some great brick and stone papers out there these days. They really do look as if there's some relief in there (when we know there actually isn't)
I think it's down to the photo-realistic appearance of newer brick papers, and the fact that they've broken up that all over, even look that appeared in older materials

Fabulous work there in your building too Jim Read. I've seen photographs used to make low-relief buildings before, and yours looks as good as any I've seen :)

Nice work on the fuelling point and depot building too Owd Bob. I'm really liking the fact that your depot is the all too common OO Peco loco depot, but re-purposing it has given it such a different look!
It really looks the part too, and that brick base has really set it off nicely. Great work Bob

BTW. I was converted to Acrylic paints several years ago. I had been a dyed in the wool Humbrol Enamel paint user, but on visiting the Games Workshop with my son, they ran a free workshop, to introduce people (mainly kids)
into how to build and adapt their range of kits, and how to paint them. Their range of paints is great. Though they have odd names like "Goblin Green" "Graveyard Earth" and suchlike, their paints are safe, non-toxic, don't smell like the old enamels used to,
they mix easily, and they dry so quickly compared to Enamels. It used to take me days (sometimes weeks) to paint buildings and even figures - whereas with acrylics I can complete painting and weathering in hours....
It's also fun to weather with Acrylics and weathering powders, and as long as you're quite quick - you can easily undo any painting you don't like, as they're water-based....

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Owd Bob

 

Good to see some good model making rather than cheque book modelling. You are showing some excellent skills and by the looks of it enjoying every minute. Keep up this lovely bit of model making, a pleasure to dip in and out of this thread 

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Thanks  Hayfield, i do try and make everything i can out of free or cheaply bought parts, i don't mind re-using second hand bits and half made or demolished stuff even from the smaller scale parts, i especially like rummaging through the scrap box at my local model shop for bits which costs just a few pennies, of course there's always something you just have to buy brand new but i try to make anything myself within my capabilities. I have a bangin' head and a stiff neck at the moment through all this weeks close-up work and efforts. I'll have this weekend off modeling, but hopefully snow fall permitting i'm off to the ELR on Sunday at Bury to see 40 106, a loco' i have'nt seen for about 30 years, it always was a fave' of mine in the '70's when still in it's battered Green condition before they repainted it.  :derisive: The last time i did see it was on the GCR at Loughborough, and just as it went into preservation.  :D Thanks for all the paint info' Marc i'll give them a try when i next see some.  :good:  

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Stuck indoors all day yesterday due to the Snow, so i got stuck into making the banking along the back out of foam board which was cut up into rough squares and stuck down and together with PVA woodwork glue, it had dried by the evening so i carved it up to shape and started laying the paper-mache ground surface using pound shop Kids coloured card, i cut the card into two inch squares which were then left to soak in an old washing up bowl containing water and PVA glue mixed at 50/50, when all was soaked through it was laid on and over the foam framework which was first all coated in undiluted PVA. All has set nice and solid this morning, i'm stuck in again today so i'll try to get the stone walling cast using car filler in my home made mold....i best open the windows or swmbo won't stop moaning about the smell!  :jester:

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A few hours later and the car filler has come out ok and the detailing has come out a treat, i'll need a few more strips making up later this week but this lot should keep me happy scraping and cutting away at the mortar lines for a few evenings. I smoothed the car filler out into the mold at a rough depth of about 8-10mm with a broad wallpaper scraper, i first smeared the whole mold with a thin coat of petroleum jelly to act as a release agent. I then cut it into the strips i need with the angle grinder fitted with a thin metal cutting disc.

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Edited by Owd Bob
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I would like to put some working lights in the pit and in the shed and fueling point roofs, if anyone can please point me towards some nice small ones...maybe LED's???

 

Bob,

 

Have you looked at the strip LED's?, they are useful as they can be cut into lengths of 3 and run from 12v without any other work, alternatively the surface mount LED's can be unsoldered and re-used with new wires soldered on, but they are fiddly, they will also require current limiting resistors in this configuration.

 

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If you think they might be worth considering, and knowing you like to make things and re-cycle stuff, PM me with an address and I can send you a selection of the offcuts left after I fitted them to the kitchen to play with.

 

Peter

 

P.S. loving the thread!

Edited by peter220950
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Wow! Peter thanks they'll be great!  i'll pm you later  :) I can deffo' re-cycle them, and if you ever need any walling? :D Nowt on the telly box last eve' so i set about scraping out the mortar lines and they came out ok using just the sharp pointy end of a needle file.

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Not much to report today only i did manage to get the base layers of paint on the car filler walls. After scraping out the mortar lines i sprayed them with some old spray cans i had..the expiry date was April '15. thankfully they still worked ok!...i then painted them with a 50/50 mix of Matt Black and Humbrol Matt Brown No.29. which was later when fully dried rubbed down with 1200 grade grit paper. A long way to go on these yet weatherin' wise so next job is to cut them to length and glue them into position first.

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Like Pete 75C and others - I never particularly liked Brick papers in the past. I used to prefer embossed plastic card sheets, because I like the relief of the mortar courses

However, there are some great brick and stone papers out there these days. They really do look as if there's some relief in there (when we know there actually isn't)

I think it's down to the photo-realistic appearance of newer brick papers, and the fact that they've broken up that all over, even look that appeared in older materials

 

Fabulous work there in your building too Jim Read. I've seen photographs used to make low-relief buildings before, and yours looks as good as any I've seen :)

 

Nice work on the fuelling point and depot building too Owd Bob. I'm really liking the fact that your depot is the all too common OO Peco loco depot, but re-purposing it has given it such a different look!

It really looks the part too, and that brick base has really set it off nicely. Great work Bob

 

BTW. I was converted to Acrylic paints several years ago. I had been a dyed in the wool Humbrol Enamel paint user, but on visiting the Games Workshop with my son, they ran a free workshop, to introduce people (mainly kids)

into how to build and adapt their range of kits, and how to paint them. Their range of paints is great. Though they have odd names like "Goblin Green" "Graveyard Earth" and suchlike, their paints are safe, non-toxic, don't smell like the old enamels used to,

they mix easily, and they dry so quickly compared to Enamels. It used to take me days (sometimes weeks) to paint buildings and even figures - whereas with acrylics I can complete painting and weathering in hours....

It's also fun to weather with Acrylics and weathering powders, and as long as you're quite quick - you can easily undo any painting you don't like, as they're water-based....

Hi Marc,

 

I echo what you have said, brick papers have improved no end and Im inclined to use them towards the back of a layout - painting brickwork takes an age even with speeded up drying times (there are umpteen methods for painting embossed or carved brickwork).

 

For acrylics, I use retarder to help with using acrylics for weathering, I also tend to use three brands, basic colours are Humbrol, their black/weathered black is more black than GW brush on Chaos Black as that has blue notes within and can affect my 'three colour' weathering mix. I use Lifecolor (sic) for one off finishes, whereby the colour is right out of the tin and thus saves wasting a mix of separate colours, provides consistency and coverage. I also use LC special effects - for special effects, such as mould etc.

 

I now tend to use enamels for those effects that need to be washed off again quickly and for specific washes used with odour free thinners which, like with acrylics, makes for a safer and more pleasant working environment. Also the use of enamels in the airbrush makes for an easier life re issues like 'dry tip' etc, although retarder and certain brands of acrylic thinner help no end too.

 

Ive used the Tamiya weathering products and MIG powders for a many, many years now and they are the finishing touch as far as I am concerned, they add depth and texture so often needed in 7mm.

 

'Bob's work, like yours is superb Marc - very inspiring!

 

A little liberty of a few photos (please forgive photo quality) demonstrating what I have written herewith, resin into rust and corroded galv, using acrylics, powders etc. 

 

ATVB

 

CME

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Edited by CME and Bottlewasher
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I've only just seen and read this thread.

 

I am fortunate in having seen, in the flesh so to speak, Owd Bob's work first hand when I visited his garden railway. He is an inspiration and a craftsman with an eye for detail. 

 

Cracking stuff as usual from a very modest modeller.

 

Ian

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Hi Marc,

 

I echo what you have said, brick papers have improved no end and Im inclined to use them towards the back of a layout - painting brickwork takes an age even with speeded up drying times (there are umpteen methods for painting embossed or carved brickwork).

 

For acrylics, I use retarder to help with using acrylics for weathering, I also tend to use three brands, basic colours are Humbrol, their black/weathered black is more black than GW brush on Chaos Black as that has blue notes within and can affect my 'three colour' weathering mix. I use Lifecolor (sic) for one off finishes, whereby the colour is right out of the tin and thus saves wasting a mix of separate colours, provides consistency and coverage. I also use LC special effects - for special effects, such as mould etc.

 

I now tend to use enamels for those effects that need to be washed off again quickly and for specific washes used with odour free thinners which, like with acrylics, makes for a safer and more pleasant working environment. Also the use of enamels in the airbrush makes for an easier life re issues like 'dry tip' etc, although retarder and certain brands of acrylic thinner help no end too.

 

Ive used the Tamiya weathering products and MIG powders for a many, many years now and they are the finishing touch as far as I am concerned, they add depth and texture so often needed in 7mm.

 

'Bob's work, like yours is superb Marc - very inspiring!

 

A little liberty of a few photos (please forgive photo quality) demonstrating what I have written herewith, resin into rust and corroded galv, using acrylics, powders etc. 

 

ATVB

 

CME

 

That van body looks great, I'd love to know some more about your techniques.

Steve.

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