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GWR goods brake vans page on gwr.org


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Thankyou Corneliuslundie, I found a copy via the dreaded ebay after going down lots of dead ends with booksellers websites. Usual thing, advertise stuff you sold ages ago, but anyone browsing will probably buy something else instead. I might just be awkward, but that sort of thing usually has the opposite effect on me. It only works when I can ask a seller to keep an eye out for something for me. I believe that has been rebranded as "networking" :good_mini:

If I can create a passable AA16, I will share the process with you all.

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On 12/01/2020 at 09:41, gwrrob said:

Can I double check here that Hornby have the GW and number placement correct on the R6921 release. I believe some toads had no branding as a wartime precaution but I'm not sure of the number position.

 

toad.jpg.f2716694539e00b54f0fce8f064bb90f.jpg

 

A bit like buses. You wait for one and another one turns up....

 

https://railsofsheffield.com/products/39955/Bachmann-33-300h-oo-gauge-gwr-20t-toad-brake-van-gwr-grey

 

 

 

Jason

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1 hour ago, mike morley said:

P1010731.JPG.465ed29052b400e313145bd2bc10fcf9.JPG

 

Outer thirds standard ABS.  Middle third scratchbuilt.  (Scribed plasticard planking with Evergreen strip framing)

The kit might have been designed with the specific intention of making the conversion easy.

 

Mike,

 

Knowing how Adrian Swain (ABS) liked his variant kits, I'd guess that the kit was designed to allow him to produce a road van variant kit - perhaps he did?

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

Edited by cctransuk
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7 hours ago, mike morley said:

108_2387.jpg.151a3d22be0f98a77f7769d6af72b7c2.jpg

 

Another picture of it under construction

Eek!  Dates from 2011!

Nice work and an interesting conversion. Last time I built one was ten years before that! Judging by what the AA16 kit is fetching now, nobody is producing one anymore. That said you photographs are much clearer than 90 year old originals so give me more motivation to scratch build one.

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And I thought I would be the first to build one! Really useful, thanks.

I have an ABS kit but already made up and painted/lettered as designed. I think hacking it about would probably be worse than starting from scratch. So when the current batch of 7 mm wagons for the club layout is off the workbench (kit built AA16 van already done), this will be the next project.

Jonathan

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I wasn't aware that the K&ESR had an AA16.

Does anyone know any details of the AA16 that ran as brake van No1 on the Bishops Castle Railway? I have seen photographs of it in service dated 1928 and it worked on the demolition trains in September 1936. I don't know what happened to it after that. Presumably it was cut up in the yard at Craven Arms as was Kitson 0-6-0 "Carlisle" ? It's difficult to tell from the photographs if it's a timber framed example.

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11 hours ago, corneliuslundie said:

There is a photo of brake van no. 1 on page 50 of Lucas. It looks to me like an iron underframe. So like no. 2.

Jonathan

I think you're right, there are several photos of it in the E. C. Griffith book of 1948, which appear to show an iron underframe, the natural light highlighting the lower flange of the channel section. No mention of the number it carried on the GWR or when the BCR acquired it unfortunately.

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  • 2 months later...
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As threatened I have built a model of no 12022 as seen at Abermule. It is difficult to see the extra doors but I decided against planking, making them more like Iron Mink doors. I may be wrong, but it's done now. Unfortunately the varnish has let me down, and I shall have to try again, either a different varnish or a repaint. And i need to sort of the Dean Goods to haul the train, in the absence of a 2021 class saddle tank. I am also not sure about the colour of the footboards.

Jonathan

PICT0042.JPG

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Jonathan, please tell us more about the varnish.

About a year ago I was doing a PO wagon for a friend (Powsides on Slaters) that the waft of Humbrol varnish I used to fix the transfers made them crinkle badly.  Not nice when its your own wagon, but far more embarrassing when it's someone else's!  I only got away with it because the friend had exactly the same thing happen with the last wagon he'd built using Humbrol varnish, so he was prepared to forgive me.

I'd already agreed to do an identical wagon for another friend and a bit of investigation on here revealed that no one had a good word to say about modern-day Humbrol but that no one could speak highly enough of Testors Dullcoat.  I soon discovered that its not the easiest stuff to get hold of but I eventually obtained a tin, only to then discover that when it was first used it had exactly the same crinkling effect as the Humbrol varnish!  Even worse, within a couple of days the transfers began to yellow badly- which the Humbrol wagon, despite more than a months head start, has still not done.

So, what varnish did you use?

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5 hours ago, mike morley said:

Jonathan, please tell us more about the varnish.

About a year ago I was doing a PO wagon for a friend (Powsides on Slaters) that the waft of Humbrol varnish I used to fix the transfers made them crinkle badly.  Not nice when its your own wagon, but far more embarrassing when it's someone else's!  I only got away with it because the friend had exactly the same thing happen with the last wagon he'd built using Humbrol varnish, so he was prepared to forgive me.

I'd already agreed to do an identical wagon for another friend and a bit of investigation on here revealed that no one had a good word to say about modern-day Humbrol but that no one could speak highly enough of Testors Dullcoat.  I soon discovered that its not the easiest stuff to get hold of but I eventually obtained a tin, only to then discover that when it was first used it had exactly the same crinkling effect as the Humbrol varnish!  Even worse, within a couple of days the transfers began to yellow badly- which the Humbrol wagon, despite more than a months head start, has still not done.

So, what varnish did you use?

 

Mike,

 

Two varnishes of widely different origins; same effect - this suggests that it is a function of the transfer material rather than anything else.

 

I would enquire of Powsides as to what varnish(es) are safe to use over their transfers.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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I've used Railmatch varnish over POWsides transfers and it neither yellowed nor ate the transfers. When I airbrush this, I thin it with Tamiya acrylic thinner which is propanol and butanol and has no aromatic component (c.f. enamel thinners). By extension, I expect Tamiya's own vanishes with their thinner would be OK. I know that they are OK with Fox transfers, which mix badly with Humbrol vanish.

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I usually seal transfers that I think may be vulnerable (eg POWsides) with Klear before spraying with Testors. It provides an acrylic barrier which is quite effective. Any unwanted glossing  disappears under the Testors.

 

Tony

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2 minutes ago, Prometheus said:

I usually seal transfers that I think may be vulnerable (eg POWsides) with Klear before spraying with Testors. It provides an acrylic barrier which is quite effective. Any unwanted glossing  disappears under the Testors.

 

Tony

 

Exactly my own method - and as recommended in the instructions that accompany my transfers.

 

John Isherwood,

Cambridge Custom Transfers.

https://www.cctrans.org.uk/products.htm

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At about the same time as I was using Klear to stick down the ballast on the layout I was building a few years ago, someone on an earlier incarnation of RMweb was revealing that Klear could also be used to glaze cab windows.

As a friend of mine remarked incredulously, "Is there anything that stuff can't do?"

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