Peco points and Hoffmann motors

[clecklewyke]

Is there experience out there of using Hoffmann motors with Peco points? 

 

I've used Hoffmann motors satisfacorily with hand-built P4 points but I have ad to convert to OO and have replaced the P4 points with Peco Streamline points. I now find that the motors do not have enough power to drive the points. I think the springs in the points are too strong for the motors.

 

I suspect that I could overcome the problem by removing the springs but am loathe to mutilate the points in this way.

 

Any other suggestions>

 

Ian

[66C]

Hi Ian

 

Have you tried a heavier (stiffer) spring wire instead of that supplied?

 

I have used this successfully with Conrad motors to operate Peco points when the over-centre spring is still in situ.

 

A minor modification to the Peco points that may help is to loosen the retainer for the over-centre spring cover and move the cover out a bit to reduce the pressure on the over-centre spring.  Then tighten the retainer to keep the cover in place.

 

Regards.

Edited August 6, 2017 by 66C

[Lenny]

Hi 

 

I am also experiencing a simlars issue, any help would be noted, my only difference is I use code 100 points .  Some difficulties with my points,  a number of them that are starting to stick, I have replaced the point motors (PL-10E) , the points and the PL -10 switch the points work fine on the test bench but as soon as I install them they stick.

 

I have 20 pus points its become expensive is there a point/or point motor that will work. 

 

Problems encountered so far

 

Points sticking

Points only moving in one direction

Points not moving

 

Rectifications carried out so far

 

Replacement on all items including the points

Installed two CDUs

Replaced electrical wiring

Replaced push bottoms

Checked alignment and adjusted

Checked base board for movement non observed.

 

Noted that this is P4, but there must be a way to fix all point issues, 

 

Cheers

 

Richard

[clecklewyke]

It's reassuring to know it's not just me.

 

I also am using code 100 as they comprise the "throat" of the fiddle yard so appearance is not critical. It's odd - some work fine but others not, including the three-way. I suppose the fact they are second-hand might be important but they seemed to work fine manually,

 

Ian

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

.. I think the springs in the points are too strong for the motors.

 

I suspect that I could overcome the problem by removing the springs but am loathe to mutilate the points in this way.

 

Any other suggestions...

 

Removal of the springs is the way forward. Think of this as modification - it is fully reversible - so not a 'mutilation'.

 

... the points work fine on the test bench but as soon as I install them they stick...

There is nothing intrinsically wrong with the points or the motors or the motor control equipment then..

 

Now here's the rub, and it is fairly brutal truth time. Logically one or more aspects of what you do to install them must therefore be leading to the sticking. A few 'top suspects':

 

Deforming the point base by pinning down. Double sided tape is 'kinder', but note what comes below.

 

Undersize hole in baseboard to fully clear drive pin action. A half inch dia. hole is good, no fiddly alignment. Once motor is in place and tested, to conceal the hole slide in a strip of thick brown paper with a precut drive pin slot between point base and baseboard, (needs this area clear of double sided tape) and repeat test of full function.

 

Fouling the action of any of the moving components with scenic treatments involving glues, ballast and paint. Test at completion of every stage, and if previously working points fail, you may have to significantly revise the cosmetic treatment applied.

 

 

... they seemed to work fine manually...

A biggie for me with the version of the code 100 of some years ago, the little contact tab formed as part of the point blade pressing. If these are slightly high so they can hit the rail foot at least some of the time, then manual actuation will usually be fine, because the finger generally pushes the tie bar down. Try the troublesome points with a pin through the drive hole (you may have to drill a new one as the point motor actuator will be through the regular drive hole) and if there are 'refusals' there's your problem.

[steve45]

Is there experience out there of using Hoffmann motors with Peco points? 

 

I've used Hoffmann motors satisfacorily with hand-built P4 points but I have ad to convert to OO and have replaced the P4 points with Peco Streamline points. I now find that the motors do not have enough power to drive the points. I think the springs in the points are too strong for the motors.

 

I suspect that I could overcome the problem by removing the springs but am loathe to mutilate the points in this way.

 

Any other suggestions>

 

Ian

 You can remove the spring and replace the cover, therefore there is no 'visual' mutilation