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Ernies 7mm Wagons - 21 ton MDV


The Bigbee Line
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I finally found something to make some wheel bearings.   I'm sure I have lots of pieces of small tube, these are hiding somewhere...

These are what I can find, some bootlace ferrules. 

 

D16195BC-E06B-48C4-A325-EC80D4A883B4.jpeg.9f9eae7d7b06459d7509b4dbeb9d6567.jpeg

 

F94AC096-2D6D-4DAB-9A50-4936B922051D.jpeg.50ff11757f9e612909bc5cef4fe72c79.jpeg

 

A short piece is cut off for the bearing and it slips over the axle end quite nicely.

 

FAF3C1C4-AD70-4B28-9C07-542109AC4291.jpeg.2b0863e5f6316f5c0e6af31e27f17a06.jpeg

 

2A0F4454-73BF-4078-99D0-8DEAB8B32DFE.jpeg.6a764ead984169961de4c1500418921a.jpeg

 

There is scope to vary the position in the axle guards.  I will 'blank off' the inner end with a wrap of thin foil from a Kit-kat wrapper, then when ready to 'set up' put a small blob of solvent/plasticard mix into the hole on each axleguard and push the bearings in with the axles, the quickly assemble the solebars to the wagon, adjust the axle to be level and at the right height (In this case I want it at the bottom of the hole to lift buffer height slightly), then leave for at least 24 hours.  Providing it is OK, an voids between the bearing and axleguard can be filled.

 

 51CD3F99-FAC7-4C39-8703-949914782E41.jpeg.cab92fbcf58fc068442ed0a9aed2760e.jpeg

 

BE51EC5A-C8F6-4246-AA0B-905D89DD5DCE.jpeg.6526c355555e7337422a674965a59e78.jpeg

Edited by The Bigbee Line
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Here is a table of AWG showing wire diameters.  The Bootlace ferrules are available in 'even' AWG sizes....  They are plated copper, so we will see how they wear.  I've no mileage turns, so should be OK as a stop gap, plus they will be greased before operation (To lubricate and prevent any tendency for the bearing journal to rust).

 

AWG.jpg.a5a7f160c648ec8f182069f86a00568d.jpg  199875137_AWGFerrules.jpg.d37b97caf6ac82c11a25962f079fb3f3.jpg

Edited by The Bigbee Line
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I put my chosen wheelsets (with thinner than usual journals) into a battery drill and gave them a Polish. Also de-rusting the rims and axle. 

Having a brainwave I took some of the kit-kat foil and placed two small circles on a cut section of tube and smoothed the outside around the tube. That thickness when pushed into the axleguards was “just right”.

 

The wheels turn but have the right amount of resistance. 

 

40D9D1D7-EAF7-4D3D-BF20-FA156374B7F1.jpeg

 

Starting to look the part now. 

Edited by The Bigbee Line
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Interlude. 

 

I have wagons that that just require minor tweaks. One of which is an LMS van that looks like a D1664. 

I have added rain strips. Then noticed that the uprights of the metal framing bent under the sides, but the model continued straight down.

 

F85103D1-4E83-4ED9-80EE-421D66C92E70.jpeg.f8a8d79558d341ca15e0095e87952cb0.jpeg

 

So they were cut off and the scrap trimmed to form the portion under the sides. They need some filling and filing....

 

55B96806-90C3-4AF3-A5E1-07C935E81FEC.jpeg.39056868d09c3ac224e5b981d68dc1d3.jpeg

 

E534286F-0A80-4EAE-A5FD-019EA29CCC1B.jpeg.52a2f237850f87e5b643b51db56a611e.jpeg

 

 

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50 shades of grey. 

 

I had had picked up a couple of Games Workshops shades of Grey. I had given each a stir with a wooden coffee stirrer. When they had dried out, the shade reference was written in each stick. 

I’ve had a test run with Ulthuan Grey.  It was applied as a thinned coat over some Tamiya, slightly darker grey. 

 

35C7983A-56B6-4A3A-8002-C9B3813382A9.jpeg.91df28455ccef98a9d8cbf9ba4eab7bf.jpeg

 

2614B939-87E8-46F0-B9A8-7889598B7BDC.jpeg.47f042e018fd6b6d422fb62c94c3cb37.jpeg

 

I applied some black Micro-Scale decal sheet. Then found the nearest number decals from the same manufacturer. 

 

D6753003-2B9A-4D22-806B-E29783A8CC2C.jpeg.97539265e822fc47046e09462692e6e8.jpeg

 

AF569AB5-E263-426B-8880-E8FD17672BC2.jpeg.5d75e175a68631eaaf09c76a0a53bf37.jpeg

 

 

Edited by The Bigbee Line
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  • 2 months later...

The cold weather is here...

 

I always seem to be sorting out stuff. There’s so much of it...

 

Work has been quite intense, but interesting. I’ve had a couple of trips to the Mendips so cannot complain. 

 

On the modelling front l have re-activated my LSWR van in card. The intention was to use a wooden core, for stability and weight.

 

33D647FB-9F85-4BFE-B174-6E6DE0F5F008.jpeg.56363142afca5d2111c534699825e6e9.jpeg

 

As my woodworking skills are poor, I improvised. 

 

BF713B7A-0261-48EB-ADA5-74FECBDE30E1.jpeg.b3e7b2746665b21c0e79c0f0c8096a5c.jpeg

 

These 3 parts will form the core. 

 

B6153F66-F54D-4DF7-A551-B4CBB95B15E3.jpeg.bd3ab086adfe9c1b489ac11fb1a42880.jpeg

 

Craftily joined with card to create a solid with square corners. 

 

5AE4B6F8-895F-40C1-9498-473D75F2A8D3.jpeg.8930ef0d56e090266d29cfea447894d4.jpeg

 

It’s amazing what you can do with PVA and a load of clamps. 

 

97696186-4D92-4F6F-8AB7-9AEED1F8CD23.jpeg.11462a567f7ae80528f48c3b2529069f.jpeg

 

Tomorrow the sides and ends go on. 

 

 

 

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While the body is assembled I was thinking of the underframe.  I had a Slaters Midland Railway Van, a bit short and maybe a touch too early for me.  It was an ebay purchase with defective buffers.  The underframe timbers were quite deep, but it would be my donor.

 

I stripped off the underframe and reviewed the parts.  The wheels stood quite a way off the axle boxes, so snipped a bit off each axle stub and cleaned the ends with a file.  The sole bars are moulded as a channel, so the lower web would form a good location for a new part to join the solebar sections.

 

IMG_9468.jpg.03ba80e19d92d0877e97303d9411b860.jpg

 

I had a measure and drew up a plate that would give a nice set the underframe timbers at the correct width and allow the increase in wheelbase from 9' to 10'6".

 

IMG_9469.jpg.ebac859de70d941cd7c454670ee2814e.jpg

 

The first axleguard has been cemented onto the base and the parts rest on a square to harden.

 

IMG_9472.jpg.a903a8a3dc4e9d723d054c87baf66958.jpg

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The Underframe had some fettling to allow it to be fitted to the body.  Although the Slaters underframe had wooden solebars, I have decided to recreate a diagram 1408 steel underframed version.  The front of the solebar will be smoothed off and a cosmetic steel solebar added...

 

IMG_9485.jpg.dde8166aa42b81231fe73965bcb2eaa8.jpg       IMG_9486.jpg.338185b33966f1a9399dda1649673082.jpg

 

The underframe assembly will be split down the middle and each section screwed in place to the body.   First dry run against the part built body..

 

IMG_9490.jpg.04872e31cb11a2a47bdb326e289e6a8d.jpg     IMG_9483.jpg.a6a3b08c8790fea3e2f1abae48de6d9e.jpg

 

I need to check the ride height as the buffer height is very important.

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Also on the workbench this evening was the trial fitting of some brass sprung UIC buffers to a Lima Ferry wagon.  I need to add some correct sized wheels, then re-set the buffer heights and widths.

 

Here is the before picture..

 

61400918_111IMG_0069.jpg.fb8e78a46cdd890871504137ca768a2f.jpg

 

Now the 'first draft' with the replacement buffers...

 

484651737_111IMG_0067.jpg.7fb95b8febe0a6f9361ba19920d93454.jpg

 

Some additional fettling is required..

 

 

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On 16/11/2019 at 22:25, The Bigbee Line said:

Also on the workbench this evening was the trial fitting of some brass sprung UIC buffers to a Lima Ferry wagon.  I need to add some correct sized wheels, then re-set the buffer heights and widths.

 

Here is the before picture..

 

61400918_111IMG_0069.jpg.fb8e78a46cdd890871504137ca768a2f.jpg

 

Now the 'first draft' with the replacement buffers...

 

484651737_111IMG_0067.jpg.7fb95b8febe0a6f9361ba19920d93454.jpg

 

Some additional fettling is required..

 

 

Firstly Ernie where did you get the buffers from and secondly we spoke about wheels I might leave my wheels as they are as I’ve been running up and down with mine and it been fine. 

Ive completed the body and can now concentrate on the chassis see pic below. 

Steve. 

 

66BAF3C9-2BDC-4A81-8E2F-AB68A9E1A329.jpeg

Edited by sf315
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On 19/11/2019 at 15:57, sf315 said:

Firstly Ernie where did you get the buffers from and secondly we spoke about wheels I might leave my wheels as they are as I’ve been running up and down with mine and it been fine. 

Ive completed the body and can now concentrate on the chassis see pic below. 

Steve. 

 

66BAF3C9-2BDC-4A81-8E2F-AB68A9E1A329.jpeg

Steve

 

I will message you about the buffers. My next thing with the Lima van is a new roof. I have another project for the Lima one. 

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The wooden solebar is a lamination of 3 pieces of sheet (I've used up all my chunky evergreen).

 

Here is a plastic axle guard in position.

 

1290082527_IMG_0125axlebox.jpg.995d45d3dc0db799510fd774d1f5d4b7.jpg

 

That is now set up, so the second side is now being added.  The assembly sits of the greaseproof type paper that is the backing on sticky labels.  The support is a plated brass 'earthing' block.  Very handy as the are heavy and square...

 

822625350_IMG_0129secondside.jpg.4fe51b25579ae8ef597f4790db9891eb.jpg

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The second axle guard is now cemented in place, set up at the correct 10'6" wheelbase.  I seem to have slipped up a bit as the are not symmetrical on the solebars..  That will easily be corrected when fitting.  You can see that I have used odd pieces to laminate the solebar.

 

Tonight I can fix the other 2 axle guards, the tomorrow have a test run, I'd better have got the ride height correct..  The underframe with the 'too deep' solebars is destined for an LBSC twin bolster.  These made it just into BR days on the mainland, but into the 60's on 'The Island' (The Isle of Wight) a couple were converted to crane runners, so not a problem for me...

 

928944289_IMG_01402ndaxleguard.jpg.6d892a65a924a73b2acc76f3fd57ec7f.jpg

 

 

 

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