The Bigbee Line Posted April 10, 2019 Author Share Posted April 10, 2019 Good morning, In Cardiff for a meeting. I've now got a 'travel kit' to enable some modelling tasks to be completed in the hotel. Last nights efforts were cutting some holes in wooden planking to create a wagon used for laying cables during third rail electrification on the former Southern Region of BR. The donor wagon is a Parkside SR 8 Plank. Big hole for the cable to run through, plus foot / hand holds. Pilot holes for the other end. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted April 11, 2019 Author Share Posted April 11, 2019 (edited) Today Matthew I adjusting ride heights........ On my 'red body, was wooden solebar' version, the second hand axle guards seemed to sit very low on the wheelsets. The bearings had been fitted to the holes as moulded. See image showing location. Looks OK. As I had enlarged the holes to take the bearing, it was visible at the front, see below: Notice how it sits towards the top of the axlebox.... With a trusty needle file I have elongated the hole, moved the bearing and added some bits of scrap styrene and solvent to give in a new housing. Hopefully that will sort out the ride height... More later Edited April 11, 2019 by The Bigbee Line typo.... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted April 12, 2019 Author Share Posted April 12, 2019 Tonights episode, is to report on some painting. Here with a first coat of Tamiya acylic... Here is one showing a comparison of door and body proportions 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted April 13, 2019 Author Share Posted April 13, 2019 (edited) CHARICATURE MODELLING I would describe my modelling style as 'Caricature Modelling'. I want the wagon to look right, proportionally correct. As the real things soon get 'lumps and bumps' I use the 'near enough / life's too short' ethos. So today I have gardening tasks to perform. In between I need to detail up another couple of minerals to get them to the point they can have the bodies 'first coated' in grey. Here is an example of my crap caricature style. On the left is a Lionheart door This door has been detailed with evergreen strip of a convenient size (what was easily to hand) plus small pieces of coffee cup lid. When the solvent has hardened it will get a fettle with one of Linda's emery boards.... This mineral is at the East Anglian Museum. Good access for measuring and pictures. Look at the picture on the right of the door catch. The rivets do not line up exactly. Edited April 13, 2019 by The Bigbee Line formatting 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted April 13, 2019 Share Posted April 13, 2019 it doesnt matter if it isnt perfect as long as it looks right, is also a doctrine i work to, keep it up 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted April 13, 2019 Share Posted April 13, 2019 9 minutes ago, sir douglas said: it doesnt matter if it isnt perfect as long as it looks right, is also a doctrine i work to, keep it up Agree completely. Rule 1 - If it looks right, is it right; as the Hawker Hunter so elegantly attests. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted April 13, 2019 Author Share Posted April 13, 2019 (edited) Whilst doing garden and shed work, I did a test run for cable drums. Usual source, coffee stirrers. I’ve found a couple of manufacturers websites. One shows the wooden drums being made. Very interesting. I’m planning one full drum with the wood staves hiding the cable, one showing the cable and one empty. Thinking of a reel of the 33kv cable used on the former Southern Region. Edited April 13, 2019 by The Bigbee Line 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted April 13, 2019 Author Share Posted April 13, 2019 I’ve found this picture showing 6 drums “British Insulated Callenders Cables Limited”. Any cable experts out there who can comment. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted April 13, 2019 Author Share Posted April 13, 2019 (edited) I came across some strainers I had been looking for. I also had a handy piece of coal from 60009, collected after it had spent the night in the yard at Norwich. After being crushed in a in a tin I used the various sieves to grade the crushed coal. I ended up with the ‘dust”: then some pieces .5 - 1mm. Finally the biggest pieces The question is. What size coal was carried in the 1960s. Edited April 13, 2019 by The Bigbee Line formatting 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted April 14, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 14, 2019 Having taken to a hammer to a piece from big pit (mine run better on real Welsh stuff) I was wondering the same thing. Looking though photos it seems to vary anyway from huge lumps to dust. I wonder if it naturally sieved itself in the coaling stage so some locos got the dregs? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted April 14, 2019 Share Posted April 14, 2019 thats a topic we could go on for ages. at collieries the coal was graded and different sized coal and qualities were separated before dropping into the wagons. at least on the lner, the top link expresses got the good quality and the bottom of the pile, goods locos got the crap and dust leading to the infamous un reliability of the garratt because it wasnt designed to work with that bad quality 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 14, 2019 Share Posted April 14, 2019 You will also find the hand dug coal was generally in larger lumps than machine dug. Placed like gas works and power stations wanted consistent sizes. Power station would also take dust. As that is what was used to fire their boilers it was injected in like you would oil. It will be around somewhere when the change to machine digging took affect. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted April 16, 2019 Author Share Posted April 16, 2019 I've had a couple of days away, the only modelling was in my head. I'd been researching the BR Iron Ore Tipplers and looking for info on the Chalk Tipplers.... My reasoning was I could convert my last 3 Big Train / Lima models without having to worry about doors. Cowards way out, but they would add a little variety. I did wonder if they ever to loaded with coal for destinations that had a rotary tippler.. All I need to do is to make the end plain. I hacked of most of the detail with a rotary tool, then added a thick layer of Tamiya acrylic paint to act as a filler before it is rubber down and the end stanchions fitted. Here is the original, quite crude, end, Here is the end with the primer/filler added.. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted April 16, 2019 Author Share Posted April 16, 2019 I gave my cosmetic axle box overlays a flash over of paint to check on the effect (just call me Mr No Patience...) The original 'hacked' box Now with a simple cosmetic overlay 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted April 19, 2019 Author Share Posted April 19, 2019 The first 2 tipplers have been cut and shut. I drilled out the axleboxes in a Big Train underframe. I cut the frame in half and added some Peco wheels for a height check. the solebar / axlebox relationship is wrong. I add a false solebar.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted April 20, 2019 Author Share Posted April 20, 2019 (edited) Seed sowing and potting is No.1 job today, with some modelling bits and pieces in between. A few bodies are having the stanchion extended downwards. On the left a couple of pieces of scrap cemented on, then on the right after a fettle with the file. Edited April 28, 2019 by The Bigbee Line Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted April 20, 2019 Author Share Posted April 20, 2019 Also on the go is a Lima version. It has a strange lip on the bottom of the body side and the underframe doesn’t want to come off..... as I will be adding a cosmetic solebar I might be able to slit it off. I already have 1 ex Palbrick 17’ 6” over headstocks version, this can be its brother. Just needs the wider door and the extra height to the body. The original door door has been removed. the door width comparison. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted April 20, 2019 Author Share Posted April 20, 2019 (edited) I found some time to fit in a little modelling. Here the potting bench doubles as a wagon shop.... I do find I get ideas at the strangest times. When I was hacking off the door detail for one of the tipplers I looked at the top edge of the end door. A Tri-ang compromise. The top edge being much too thick. As I will have to make a higher top when I create an MDV, I took the plunge Tomirrow I will add the other gussets....... Edited April 20, 2019 by The Bigbee Line 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted April 21, 2019 Author Share Posted April 21, 2019 (edited) Today it’s sweet peas.... plus the rest of the gusset plates in the end door. I hadn’t noticed but the originals are too close together. Now the rest are in place I’m quite please with the result. Here is the “before”... Here is the “after”, next to a Lionheart model. I’ve added its new bottom and sat it on its chassis. Edited April 21, 2019 by The Bigbee Line 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted April 21, 2019 Author Share Posted April 21, 2019 A lovely warm day today. Modelling has moved to the workshop (I can make a bit more mess and it doesn't have to double up as an office). My normal method is to cut out the old door and put is a fresh piece of plasticard or a door that had been widened. As this rebody of a 17'6" underframe would not have the top 'traders' door, I wondered if I could simplify that part of the construction. Taking a large (2" diameter) circular saw blade in my dremel at the slowest speed, I gently trimmed off the door and hinge detail. The shows the body with just a sheet added under the body to give the missing height: The stanchions have been added and some evergreen cemented in to allow the top rail to be formed: The top rail has been trimmed. The door will be a sheet of thin styrene and added hinge detail. The underframe has been screwed into place. The body is sitting a little low and will have a packer fitted to lift to the correct height before the cosmetic solebar is added. A side by side view of the end of my first 10' wheelbase version and the latest version. I might replace the moulded grabs for the fun.... Researching the prototype has been quite interesting. I think I'll do one with LMS style 8 block brakes (but luckily not fitted with the auxiliary rubbers..) the other will have the 4 block Morton style. I've also cut out some headstocks to take some white metal bodies RCH 'long' buffers. Just need to assemble them with a 'base' to allow them to be assembled to the models with screws. For some reason I'd shied away from the task, not sure why, just a confidence thing... These two wagons are a little out of my chosen period, but will allow me to purchase a Heljan OAA in early livery ( a favourite wagon for me)... Will need a blue 08....... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted April 22, 2019 Author Share Posted April 22, 2019 Amongst the seed sowing today I have raised the body height on the 10' WB, a washer was used as a spacer secured by the mounting screws. Three were used as a test and also added some nice weight... I also started a batch of doors.. Shown next to it's inspiration.. Here shown in position... Back to gardening now.... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted April 22, 2019 Author Share Posted April 22, 2019 (edited) Just sneaked in a fettle on the underframe. Originally the underframe was too wide, by setting the bearings in a slight recess I have gained valuable millimetres. there is mimimum end float on the axles. Might even thin down the edges of the guard irons. Edited April 22, 2019 by The Bigbee Line Cannot spell. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted April 23, 2019 Author Share Posted April 23, 2019 (edited) Just a quick half hour in the workshop tonight. First filled in the door that was un-necessarily removed... Then added the gussets to locate the cosmetic solebar. Cosmetic solebar added, with lower hinge detail added. Comparison, first the Lionheart door. Now the home made version. Note the gussets need to be trimmed. Edited April 23, 2019 by The Bigbee Line 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted April 26, 2019 Author Share Posted April 26, 2019 (edited) Very busy with proper work this week... Been thinking about buffers. I had purchased several sets of white metal shanked sprung buffers and decided to use these on the kit built Kirk vans. The plastic kit versions being cascaded to these minerals. So fettled a couple of headstocks to take the shanks. As they are ABS I needed something quite punchy to bond them, so once that was sorted, finished that part of the preparation. I thought I'd do the easy end first, so added the back part of the end stanchion. Tomorrow I will add some fillets of styrene for strength and to ensure the buffers are nice and level. I won't be springing the drawgear, instead using peco hooks as a temporary measure. Really looking forward to getting this one to the paint stage. Edited April 26, 2019 by The Bigbee Line Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted April 27, 2019 Author Share Posted April 27, 2019 I think the Palbrick Re-body is almost ready for paint. Added the other side door, and various bits and bobs. Here is a general view: In the pictures I can see a few things 'on the wonk'. I'll do a quick fettle in the morning and get a base coat of paint on. Then see what else jumps out. I am thinking of painting some spare decals with the body colour. These can then be decaled or printed and then stuck on. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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