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Ernies 7mm Wagons - 21 ton MDV


The Bigbee Line
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Good morning

 

Just finding my way around the new RM Web...

 

Now the shock open is almost finished I thought I'd sort my various Kits to choose the next victim.  A Parkside GW van fitted the bill.  Assembled easily and I have a picture of an example seen during a 1980's visit to Three Bridges.

 

It is a GW V21 Lot 999 114080

 

Seen here with a base coat of Humbrol 19 Gloss Red.....  Recommended by Steve Farmer, so I'm giving it a go.  Steve is no fool when it comes to modelling, so his advice is appreciated...

 

2000191762_WagonGWVansV21Lot999inHumbrol19.jpg.f36900a712ed53104e31bfb219b680b8.jpg

 

Detail of the ironwork that wraps under the body and the goes down to join the solebar. 

 

363446931_WagonGWVansV21Lot999114080EPDetail02.jpg.f609d9211ea6724c15663b0f3396e39b.jpg

 

Detail of the brake slide, no pin and holes..  just a set of teeth....

 

603061411_WagonGWVansV21Lot999114080EPDetail01.jpg.8481ee78cf91b3c1caacc774d52c7d00.jpg

 

Buffers, Screw couplings and vacuum pipe detail.

 

1260331237_WagonGWVansV21Lot999114080EPDetail04.jpg.76832db61bc6bdba6243af67393a0857.jpg

 

Detail of the metal angle that forms the end of the roof...

 

288381020_WagonGWVansV21Lot999114080EPDetail03.jpg.1eb763dae5d18058c16bb35adce322ec.jpg

Wagon GW Vans V21 Lot 999 114080 EP SMALL.jpg

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I won’t blame you Steve....

 

I’ve given the body various washes. Today a light brown wash in a Matt finish. Then a couple of darker patches as the base for the lettering. Tonight I’ll mask these off and give the whole thing a satin brown wash.....

 

 

 

 

 

12AE192A-C378-4D32-8227-55205C769F96.jpeg

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This is an eBay ‘badly built’. In the shop to come out as a ‘Chas. Roberts’ 10’ WB. Wooden framed unfitted. It will have a 2 block Morton Brake. Should really have the “Doncaster strapping” on the bottom corners. 

First coat of the black patches, again to be masked off for the bodies next wash. 

23FAC7DD-80E4-42FF-8309-CDE9FFAABA9D.jpeg

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The GW 12 ton box has received another wash, and the body colour is almost there.  The roof has been painted with body colour on the underside and cemented to the body.  The vents are open at the bottom, so the fumes should dissipate OK.

 

I have added a number on one side.  I have various decal sheets, but have a big gripe with most UK ones...  I can't see the lettering, it is white on white backing paper.   I have tried the trick of using a dark felt tip on the back of the sheet as a contrast, but is a pain...

 

The lettering used here is Microscale, the actual sheet is a Norfolk Southern Diesel sheet in N scale.  The backing sheet has a bluish tinge so the lettering is visible.......

 

For me the font looks right.  Although this will be a fitted van I have a couple of pictures where a patch of body colour has been applied as a background to the lettering.  Just need the 12 T now....

IMG_3706 E150.jpg

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Know what you mean about the colour of backing paper. I use a magnifying glass and get in good light by a window to see what’s what. 

Wagons are looking good Ernie 

leave the E as it is as it adds interest to the number. Let’s say the apprentice painter was allowed to number the wagon. 

 

Thanks Steve. 

Edited by sf315
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44 minutes ago, sf315 said:

Know what you mean about the colour of backing paper. I use a magnifying glass and get in good light by a window to see what’s what. 

Wagons are looking good Ernie 

leave the E as it is as it adds interest to the number. Let’s say the apprentice painter was allowed to number the wagon. 

 

Thanks Steve. 

It's only when I look at my pictures can I actually see what's going on.........

 

Must get the magnifier out....

 

The Big E has gone,,,,,

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  • 2 weeks later...

Good evening

 

Life and work have inhibited modelling this week.  I did make a purchase of some buffer shanks from ebay, I got 24 which will be useful as some of my purchased spares and repair items are without buffers.

 

IMG_4390.jpg.769a507539ee582f73452f72ebb9b467.jpg

 

I am not a fan of the spring that goes in the shank..  So I thought of mounting them without the spring and screwing them into a block of some kind.  A quick search found a bit of round sprue, roughly cut to length and a hole in the end...

 

IMG_4384.jpg.19336332b9c74a9b3713f5f243d35364.jpg  IMG_4386.jpg.5b201b48f997c5bbe4a762492bcce8d5.jpg

 

The buffer will tap its own thread, then mounted on the wagon..

 

IMG_4379.jpg.a41869b3662ab7a5e8364bb238765777.jpg

 

 

 

 

So on the left it is fully compressed, on the right extended...

 

IMG_4381.jpg.b8fb2ac4e92779d41da9a315fe4b485b.jpg  IMG_4380.jpg.542628509d5c3ff62562cd024ca9aa60.jpg

 

Not sure what to spring it with yet...

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Yesterday was a sorting out day. 

810D1491-1856-4DB7-AB6F-036D87382C4E.jpeg.e855fed566379278b8d906d9e1628102.jpegfound some floor under the junk. I fought the carpet monster and retrieved a couple of buffers and axle bearings.....

I also found a piece of Evergreen Tube, from an assortment pack. The hole was the right size to take the threaded end of a buffer. Just need to see what it is sold as and get a pack. I also found a biro spring. Might be able to use some. 

At the Churnet Valley today so it will be Tuesday before the next instalment. 

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It's buffers and couplings on the G W van.  My plan for a central spring won't work on this one as the brakework is in the way.  So I used the as purchased spring, but really struggled to get the nuts on.  In the end I resorted to a strip of 'post it' and a coffee stirrer....  Little bleeders did not want to go on.  If I had to go under the table I must have gone down at least a dozen times to retrieve bits.........

 

IMG_4752.JPG.ac10c89ac985e331a7e638a655d7de30.JPG

 

 

IMG_4754.JPG.d188f9c6c2489115495a7114a18d8a73.JPG

 

I then checked the size of a fitted buffer, using my conversion chart a 1'8.1/2" buffer scales out at 11.96mm.  the nuts were screwed on to achieve this projection.

 

IMG_4758.JPG.e0b4d99b9c1263da5ba26f7eb6999986.JPG

 

I opened the headstock to take some Dapol Screw Couplings.  I wanted to have these hanging from their 'rest hooks' so roughed one up from a small piece of wire.  Because the tommy bar is fixed, I had to reverse the coupling in the drawhook.  To aid this I filed a gedges flat on the coupling (quite crudly I'm afraid...)

 

IMG_4759.jpg.a5ffecc4bcffa71af9acdafc890035f4.jpg

 

Here the flat is lined up with the slot and the coupling removed, flopped over and re-fitted..

 

IMG_4760.jpg.38ecba15b57aaa080de58d2485f035c1.jpg

 

Here is the finished product, I'm quite pleased with the effect and the ease that the rest hook can be fitted.

 

IMG_4765.jpg.ac0b85df954a0e4ae1af2ac4359d4403.jpg      IMG_4767.jpg.820b30943d54722c123431b4c41fa9f1.jpg      IMG_4768.jpg.41bae5b1d013facc5819926d9200b2f0.jpg   

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  • 2 weeks later...

Big trains have occupied my time plus a trip to the office (in Paris), no fun when French Customs were working to rule, a 3 hour wait.....

 

Never mind have been having a monster sort, but did look at my conversion program on Big Train Minfits...

 

I was thinking about the buffers and wondered if there's any mileage in using the existing shanks...right

 

On the left 'as it comes',                                              On the right 'drilled out and metal head inserted'

 

IMG_4884.jpg.651a091c34511a9aed175575aaa9fab3.jpg        IMG_4891.jpg.20f4551312e82570349c999874a0516a.jpg

 

 

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Good morning,

 

Before my head gets filled with the many things I need to do today.  I was thinking about wagons, specifically the number that I have in an incomplete state and the number of projects that I have in my head.  When I think about this it can all get a bit jumbled and I think to myself will I get them all finished... 

 

So I had an idea to give me some control.  The principles will be:

 

The wagons quickly get to the stage where the structure is complete; wheels, buffers and couplings are fitted and it is weighted to enable it to run.

 

It may be, the buffers, wheels and couplings can be exchanged if required.

 

My current themes are.....

 

A number of LNER Vans, generically the same but will have 9' or 10' wheelbase, wooden or steel under frames, be fitted or unfitted, plus the odd fruit vans

 

Minerals.  I have a number of Big Train / Lima models that get a basic cut and shut (Shorten, wider door, raised in height), they are a tad narrow, but I'm ignoring that.  I have various options for under frames, but bearing in mind the accuracy, or lack of it, with the body, I am quite forgiving, as long as the wheelbase is correct and they look OK from a viewing distance of 24".  With the under frames a brake handle of brass bent to the correct shape goes a long way to improving the general appearance.  I have one of the 10' wheel base re-bodied versions, actually a bit late for my period, but I have a picture of one that I detached from a Betteshanger coal train in Tonbridge West Yard so it has a kind of sentimental value.

 

The first conversion took ages, I cut the body into 5 sections, Ending up with ; End, part of door, filler section, part of door, end.  All requiring lots of filling as my cutting is normally slightly on the wonk.  Now it is either 2 parts to create the correct body length and a replacement door.  I an working to recycle the door sections that are removed to create wide door from the same parts.  The second option will be to do as stage 1, but splice in a re-manufactured door.

 

In the picture below are some examples:  Left to right, Conversion No.1  - shortened body with new middle door section, sitting on an under frame made from Parkside under frame,  Conversion No.2 - this was the convoluted 5 part job, sitting of a cooper craft under frame, finally Conversion No.4 - An as yet un chopped body sitting on a Cooper Craft under frame (This was from a partially completed GW 4 plank that I'm not sure will get finished..)  The DC bits on the end will go.  A plus point with the minerals is that most only have 2 brake blocks, so that is another economy...

 

IMG_4888.jpg.2cf59c14243c91c16a269283414812e3.jpg

 

In my 'Like to do' list are the following:

 

Southern Railway Ballast Hoppers.  A couple are being hauled by a Terrier on the KESR, seen in the excellent book  Steam in the Sussex Landscape", this has lots of inspirational stuff in the backgrounds of the pictures.  I have cast metal underfames and diamond framed bogies earmarked for the project.

 

      34038576_terrierplushoppers.jpg.56a6f27c8dd00f124f1851cb95b33c6c.jpg

 

In the same book is a picture of an Engineers train with 2 wagons, the first looks like a conversion of a coach under frame and the second wagon is a track relaying crane based on a Warwell wagon.  Just need a cheap Warwell now...

 

    419758776_tracklayer.jpg.61f852101603691c1116c4344080c01b.jpg

 

The aim is to avoid where possible any purchases, just to use what is on hand.  So I go to shows, look and hope to return without new stock, quite pleased when it all works out...

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Hello Ernie 

Myhead gets jumbled with rolling stock I would like to model but I’ve got my head round get the layout done first and worry about the rolling stock later. So I’ve not particularly done much rolling stock wise recently. 

Steve. 

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On 28/08/2017 at 11:13, The Bigbee Line said:

BUFFERS

 

Good morning.  During non modelling periods I quite often find myself thinking through various things....  One of these is buffers, the thoughts are:

 

Sprung buffers often have the mechanism gummed up or rusty

 

The coil springs are very fine and prone to jamming.

 

The shortness allows them droop, which I think looks naff.

 

I had a thought about making the heads and shafts myself so looked for a low tech method.  Last night I put one theory into practice using M2 bolts with the heads filed down and a thin brass washer soldered on....

 

Three variants:

 

post-2484-0-58813200-1503914588_thumb.jpg

 

Close ups:

 

post-2484-0-45538800-1503914591_thumb.jpg

 

post-2484-0-20774400-1503914594_thumb.jpg

 

post-2484-0-60173100-1503914595.jpg

 

post-2484-0-58836300-1503914603_thumb.jpg

 

post-2484-0-28182900-1503914610_thumb.jpg

 

Comparison with a Coopecraft head:

 

post-2484-0-74499900-1503914615_thumb.jpg

 

Head comparison with a Parkside whitemetal RCH:

 

post-2484-0-15725600-1503914621_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

post-2484-0-84636600-1503914568_thumb.jpg

post-2484-0-77788300-1503914583_thumb.jpg

Hi can you show me what sort of bolts you use and the washers sounds like good idea to me

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I’ll dig out some bolts and take pictures. 

 

In in the meantime I’m fitting couplings. 

 

Here’s one with a rigid mount. Odd bits of coffee stirrer glued round the shank. The plate is for function only. 

0D0C1226-CC50-4C90-9130-2C5AA881167E.jpeg.8a5ec9ed3515cac9504291282bc0e9a3.jpeg

 

This one uses the spring, but will get fixed solid when the front is filled around the drawbar to stop it flopping about. 

0F9C1BDE-8225-46DA-A94D-617011BC8895.jpeg.966ce5343f5d7d305341b2dda3888a96.jpeg

 

I have a Parkside Slope Sider. At the door end there is not a lot of room above the hook. Need to check some pictures. 

 

2E73E5B8-D589-4429-B1E1-190198503F24.jpeg.2d5069a7952e1dee7feb3200b72a697b.jpeg

 

4C1D698F-83C8-48C6-83F8-2FF5503B2B4C.jpeg.0f28df8382ad7ba604359392376727b6.jpeg

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