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Finsbury

Motorising the Dapol railbus

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Not sure if this version has been done before? More than likely, mods delete if superfluous.

Here I hope to give a rough description of adding a little motive power to a railbus I'm sure everyone has tucked away somewhere. DCC will also be involved. Detailing will not be bothered with, this is only proof of concept.

 

Many thanks to @CloggyDog for finding the motor, without his effort this wouldn't be happening.

 

Anyway.

post-31145-0-33393500-1503424427_thumb.jpg

Here we have the motor fitted with the Dapol wheels. These are insulated - only one wheel is insulated on the set supplied with the motor. I used the Dapol axle too, as I had been a bit lively when dismantling and scored up the one supplied with the motor. The original smaller wheelset is shown for comparison.

 

 

Here we can see the rough layout of components I'm butchering at the moment.

The chassis end has been severed to accommodate the motor, offcut to the left. The scalpel points to the beginnings of a hole, this I felt was needed to get the axles central. This may not be needed after all, we shall see.

post-31145-0-98400300-1503424962_thumb.jpg

 

More tomorrow!

Edited by Finsbury
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I think Branchlines did a motorising kit for this in the 90's ?

And it is still available. I bought one at Warley last year.

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Branchlines are still trading and regularly advertise in model press. According to my 2013 dated leaflet, its £40 with motor.

 

Interested in how you are going about it though. 

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Currently £61 for the full kit with interior detail, etc..

 

 

Or you could just buy the Heljan version. ;)

 

 

But where's the fun in that?

 

 

 

Jason

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Carry on, Finsbury.  There is more than one way of skinning a cat and the motor you are using may have other applications.

 

Chris

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Many years ago there was an article in Model Trains magazine showing how to motorise this using the chassis of a Roco East German railbus (possibly a VT98?).  It filled most of the interior but had the right wheelbase and being Roco, ran beautifully.  However it was never the most common model and not cheap.  The article is worth hunting down, though.

 

For years I have had a part-built/dismantled Airfix Railbus in my box(es) of projects and not so long ago, one of these Roco railbuses turned up in one of my eBay job lot purchases.  The body had been poorly repainted but since I effectively paid a tenner for it, I won't feel any qualms about discarding it.  (What am I saying, of course I won't throw it away.  I throw nothing away, as my wife will confirm). 

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Would it be possible to have some details about the motor? It looks really useful

 

Tim T

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Would it be possible to have some details about the motor? It looks really useful

Tim T

Hang on in there, Tim! It might not work, yet!

It is a bit dear, moneywise. I would not ever have bought a motor at this price. The cost was ok, but customs and excise made it really dear.

If you absolutely need it, the details are here

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/123592-axle-hung-motors/

Post#7 cloggydog

I don't know how to clicky linky..

 

edit, it seems clicky linky did it all on it's own!

Edited by Finsbury

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Chassis offered up to floor

post-31145-0-38955300-1503446640_thumb.jpg

I am hoping the tabs will be hidden under seating. I pray they will be less visible than my other lash up, anyway!

Does not resemble anything like the wonderful products from Branchline.

Edited by Finsbury
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By the bye, can a clever bloke tell a thick'un how to make pictures small, like? ipad thing.

Edited by Finsbury

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post-31145-0-94535300-1503447239_thumb.jpg

 

Possibly unnecessary hole from above floor.

The motor seems to now sit flush on the base of the floor. hmm. We'll see, but it's starting to look like that cut into the floor was unnecessary. hmm.

A splodge of silicone fixative could easily cure that, but I think some pretty curved bracing will work (unprototypically, of course).

Like we care..

Now to find some plastic stuff in 'Nam.....

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G'Day Gents

 

I like a lot of others used a Lima LWB shunter chassis.

 

manna

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post-31145-0-03286400-1503448829_thumb.jpg

Clearing out some flashing and good to go.

 

Help with interior (in for a d, in for a L) required, ie; colours, of.

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There will be a delay to proceedings as I think I will go for best effort. The interior is on order from Branchlines as cal.n and Steamport Southport have both alluded to.

Initial priming has shown up some minor imperfections, some #2500 grit has dealt with this.

A steel weight is at a local workshop being cut and drilled to fit above the chassis.

Holes have been drilled front and rear for lights, just need some lead people to add a bit more weight.

The glazing will have to suffice, as I don't have a clue on that front.

 

Take care,

Finsbury

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I think Branchlines did a motorising kit for this in the 90's ?

 

 

Harrow model shop did one in the 70's in whitemetal, works very well

 

I then built another one using a DS10 motor in a motor mount fitted to the axles, axles ran in pinpoint bearings in the axleboxes, I cut a hole in the floor and made a housing out of plasticard, also worked well but a bit light

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If I remember rightly the glazing is pretty good.  Mind you, that was on an original Airfix version 50+ years ago ...

 

Chris

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Cheers Chris F,

Your interest spurs me on. It's been a good many years since I modelled, yet so enjoyable are the memories. I have picked up so many tips from this site, as much as enjoyment. Many are the talents herein.

I wish I had the eyes I used to have, though!

 

I forgot to include Crispy Dave earlier-he mentioned the Branchlines people, too. Cheers Chris (laughing, Dave).

 

Mr Chrisf. ps the glazing reminds me I need to see the opticians! I'll see if it can be 'washed' down.

 

Happy modelling,

Finsbury

Edited by Finsbury
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Any idea what sort of speed it'll run at ?

I can already think of half a dozen uses for a Motor/box combo like that.

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Any idea what sort of speed it'll run at ?

I can already think of half a dozen uses for a Motor/box combo like that.

Good Lord, I have no idea.

 

It revs up to rpm beyond the human ear.

Possibly even dogs will say 'eh?' rather than yapping annoyingly.

 

In the '50's the Americans were busy designing nuclear powered aircraft. I hope my thick bonce can slow this thing down!

 

I will be using primarily with dcc, the start/v+-/pulsing does have a marked effect on slow running.

If I find a dc controller to test also, I shall use to help with findings. I only have a little spare room, I wish I had the space for express trains! Little items of interest is the order of the day, along with locomotives I like.. A bit of OO9 will make an appearance on the layout.

Rule #1, eh?!

 

To get back to your speed query, I shall supply all details as found, forthwith.

 

I've had a beer or two, hence the somewhat rambling reply!

 

All the best,

Fin

Edited by Finsbury
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Did a bit of fiddling while waiting for other jobs to get done/arrive.

Mainly the window frames.

 

They look awful. Took all afternoon to mask off and paint. Can anyone advise me how to get a better finish? It seems quite soft, I daren't touch them. Humbrol metallic #11.

post-31145-0-62371000-1503686156_thumb.jpg

Does it need a primer, rubbing down with emery...?

Edited by Finsbury

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Did a bit of fiddling while waiting for other jobs to get done/arrive.

Mainly the window frames.

 

They look awful. Took all afternoon to mask off and paint. Can anyone advise me how to get a better finish? It seems quite soft, I daren't touch them. Humbrol metallic #11.

attachicon.gifIMG_0346.JPG

Does it need a primer, rubbing down with emery...?

I'm currently building and motorising one of these using an EAMES chassis I won on Ebay. For the window frames I used a Sharpie (Silver metallic). I went off the line a couple of times, but I have plenty of spares. Dries in seconds.

post-24883-0-05004300-1509215601_thumb.jpg

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I went off the line a couple of times, but I have plenty of spares. Dries in seconds.

 

almost all of my detailing is done with sharpie's, most people dont seem to know that sharpies use alcohol based ink, therefore a permanent marker really isnt, because you can remove it with rubbing alcohol and a cotton bud, I used to refurbish pos (point of sale) computers in a former life, and this is what we used to remove all the sharpie and ballpoint ink on the keyboards and monitors, takes longer the more time the sharpie ink is on the plastic as it slowly leaches into it, but if you make a mistake whilst doing the detailing, simply rub it with a cotton bud dipped in 91% alcohol (9%water) and it will remove it instantly and the alcohol doesn't react with most plastics we seem to use.

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.....It revs up to rpm beyond the human ear.

Possibly even dogs will say 'eh?' rather than yapping annoyingly.....

 

I'm getting visions of dogs with ear trumpets.

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