Manning Wardle L Class 0-6-0 (Agenoria Kit)

[Simond]

Roof has been attended to - as you say, just a gentle bend with the fingers. The buffers I will smooth out - gonna be away for the next few days if all goes to plan, but will get onto it when I get back. Thanks for all your help and advice over the last few months!

It’s a pleasure to be involved if a few words can help someone achieve something of which any of us would be proud; your loco looks great.

 

(Congratulations on the baby, too!)

 

All the best

Simon

[fredwrekin]

Craking job on the paintwork & weathering, you can be very proud of your first build.

I have just started in the paint shop with my 'Canal Class' loco, unlike you I did not fit the filler plates between the tank tops & boiler (I prefer the way it looks) but it don't half make it difficult to paint !!

 

Steve B

[jdb82]

Craking job on the paintwork & weathering, you can be very proud of your first build.

I have just started in the paint shop with my 'Canal Class' loco, unlike you I did not fit the filler plates between the tank tops & boiler (I prefer the way it looks) but it don't half make it difficult to paint !!

Steve B

I can imagine it would! I think with my next project, I’ll make as much of it detachable as possible to make painting easier. One of the reasons I choose Hamburg to model is that it didn’t need lining. Several other Canal class locos were lined - I found just a simple black coat enough of a challenge! Maybe I’ll try lining next time....

 

Incidentally, do you have a thread for your canal class on here?

Edited April 4, 2018 by jdb82

[jdb82]

Forgot to say in my previous post, but hats off to Pete Stamper for designing an awesome kit - I can't think of very much that I had to alter or change; everything went together beautifully! 

[N15class]

Forgot to say in my previous post, but hats off to Pete Stamper for designing an awesome kit - I can't think of very much that I had to alteration or change; everything went together beautifully!

 

Well done nice looking loco you have there. Yes the Pete Stamper locos are a pleasure to assemble. I also built a canal a long time ago for a customer.

[fredwrekin]

I can imagine it would! I think with my next project, I’ll make as much of it detachable as possible to make painting easier. One of the reasons I choose Hamburg to model is that it didn’t need lining. Several other Canal class locos were lined - I found just a simple black coat enough of a challenge! Maybe I’ll try lining next time....

 

Incidentally, do you have a thread for your canal class on here?

[doilum]

Well done nice looking loco you have there. Yes the Pete Stamper locos are a pleasure to assemble. I also built a canal a long time ago for a customer.

Loved my PLA/NCB so much, I cloned a sister!

[fredwrekin]

I can imagine it would! I think with my next project, I’ll make as much of it detachable as possible to make painting easier. One of the reasons I choose Hamburg to model is that it didn’t need lining. Several other Canal class locos were lined - I found just a simple black coat enough of a challenge! Maybe I’ll try lining next time....

Incidentally, do you have a thread for your canal class on here?

Sorry no thread on here, I'm having enough problems replying with some pics. Hopefully they should be here, still in primer awaiting some attention before the black goes on.

 

As you say the kit goes together well although the instructions were a bit vague!! Your thread was very helpful as a reference.

Edited April 8, 2018 by fredwrekin

[jdb82]

Sorry no thread on here, I'm having enough problems replying with some pics. Hopefully they should be here, still in primer awaiting some attention before the black goes on.

 

As you say the kit goes together well although the instructions were a bit vague!! Your thread was very helpful as a reference.

 

Looks great! Good to see another version of what I built, as they seem quite few and far between. I wish I'd have added the coupling chains on before painting - mine will be really tricky to fit without scratching the paintwork

[N15class]

I always add couplings after paint. There is generally a bit of soldering to close the links etc. A lot of cleaning and a dunk in the blackening flued.

[fredwrekin]

I always add couplings after paint. There is generally a bit of soldering to close the links etc. A lot of cleaning and a dunk in the blackening flued.

With all the rolling stock & other loco I have built, I did put the couplings on after painting but this didn't have couplings that were sprung ie. had to be soldered in place. My pet hate is seeing superbly built kits with open links, so I always solder them closed, this ment they have to be painted. Time will tell if the paint chips/wears off.

[N15class]

With all the rolling stock & other loco I have built, I did put the couplings on after painting but this didn't have couplings that were sprung ie. had to be soldered in place. My pet hate is seeing superbly built kits with open links, so I always solder them closed, this ment they have to be painted. Time will tell if the paint chips/wears off.

No need to paint coupling. Use blackening flued. That won't chip.

[jdb82]

Manning Wardle L Class 0-6-0

 

And so to the next project! When I bought my previous kit, the Hudswell Clarke canal tank, I also purchased a Manning Wardle Class L 0-6-0. It was billed as another fairly straight forwards kit, which would be great for building my skillset. I also have an increasingly voracious penchant (if such a thing exists) for a Manning Wardle loco, so needed no further persuasion to add this to my shopping basket whilst I was doing.

 

The loco I intend to model will be no.1394, 'Bamburgh', and will be in 7mm scale. Bamburgh was the original, and for some time only locomotive on the North Sunderland Railway. The NSR opened in the 1890's, serving just a handful of small communities alongs it's 4 mile stretch. It was hoped that a combination of tourism and fish from the busy port at Seahouses would keep the line profitable, but this was never to be, and it suffered constant financial difficulties until it's eventual closure in 1951. 'Bamburgh' was used throughout this time to haul short passenger trains, as well as an assortment of freight wagons.

 

Harman describes in his book the livery as being a "light green, lined out with broad black lines edged in white. So that'll be interesting when I get to that stage!! Thoroughly looking forward to this one, and hopefully some of the experience gained from building the canal tank will make parts of this one more straightforwards! 

 

 

 

Edited April 30, 2018 by jdb82

[N15class]

Whose kit are you going to use? I built a L class a few years ago. from a very basic Jim Harris kit.

[jdb82]

After a check of the contents revealed everything was present, it was down to work. I even scored Browny points with my wife as she saw me actually reading the instructions first. I then promptly ignored them. Or at lease re-ordered them.

 

 

Following the advice received from my last build, I decided to start with the coupling rods and get a working chassis before starting the body.

I laminated the rods which are of a 3 layer laminate design, soldered, filed and polished. The kit supplies brasses for the joints as a brass etch, but these are way too small, and so I made some larger versions from some waste etch. These were then soldered on, although the one in the top right in the photo needs straightening up. 

 

 

I find setting little targets is a good way to improve - having looked at numerous threads on RMWeb and WT, I will be striving to solder and clean up to a higher standard this time round. The work I see in photos from people such as PAD, Jazz, Nick Dunhill & Sandy Harper to name but a few (please don't be offended if you are not listed here!!!) is something I aspire to, so where better to start attempting to achieve this than here?! 

[jdb82]

Whose kit are you going to use? I built a L class a few years ago. from a very basic Jim Harris kit.

 

 

This is another Agenoria kit - number 23, so one from the Pete Stamper era. I'm hoping it will go together as well as the Hudswell Clarke

[wagonman]

 

I find setting little targets is a good way to improve - having looked at numerous threads on RMWeb and WT, I will be striving to solder and clean up to a higher standard this time round. The work I see in photos from people such as PAD, Jazz, Nick Dunhill & Sandy Harper to name but a few (please don't be offended if you are not listed here!!!) is something I aspire to, so where better to start attempting to achieve this than here?! 

 

 

An admirable policy. I'm afraid I've tended to work on the basis that a coat of paint covers a multitude of tins...

[Regularity]

Bamburgh had 3’6” wheels rather than the usual 3’ or so.

[MarcD]

Wheel size was listed as an option by M/W. I wouldn't like to say if 3ft or 3ft6 were the most common size on the L. I'm drawing out Bamburgh/Calwood The plan is for it to be 3D printed on an etched chassis.

 

Marc

[doilum]

Should that be "Cawood"? Google Cawood & Wistow light railway.

If you look on the pages regarding the new RTR K class, you will find I have listed some useful references.

I took over 20 years to build Slaters K class. If I was to repeat this I would use plunger pickups. Given the space available I might try 4mm units.

Just from interest, are the axles the usual 7mm items or the thinner ones produced for their K class.

Good luck anyway.

[MarcD]

Typo

 

Marc

[jdb82]

Bamburgh had 3’6” wheels rather than the usual 3’ or so.

 

Yeah, I noticed this when I was reading about the loco in a couple of different books. A rarely these days, but the kit was supplied with the wheels (upon my request) to make the buying of things easier whilst not in the UK. There was a certain amount of naivety in this, as at the time I didn't know any different. There are a few small bits and pieces I need, so I think I'll have a look on Slaters website and see if there's a 3'6" version available and get them and the other things I need shipped out. I'm always a bit reluctant to do this though, as the only reliable method of getting them to Brunei is by courier, which costs a small fortune. Standard post takes about 8 weeks out here, and even then there's a good chance it won't arrive at all! 

 

I took over 20 years to build Slaters K class. If I was to repeat this I would use plunger pickups. Given the space available I might try 4mm units.

Just from interest, are the axles the usual 7mm items or the thinner ones produced for their K class.

Good luck anyway.

 

Just standard 3/8inch, 7mm axels - although I'll be using Slaters wheels, it's an Agenoria kit, not a Slaters one :-) I like the idea of the plunger pickups though - not having used them before, it would be a good time to experiment.

[Regularity]

⅜” axles? In 0 gauge?

 

Do you mean 3/16”?

[jdb82]

⅜” axles? In 0 gauge?

 

Do you mean 3/16”?

 

 

Haha...it was very early this morning I wrote that! Yes 3/16"......

[doilum]

This is another Agenoria kit - number 23, so one from the Pete Stamper era. I'm hoping it will go together as well as the Hudswell Clarke

Yeah, I noticed this when I was reading about the loco in a couple of different books. A rarely these days, but the kit was supplied with the wheels (upon my request) to make the buying of things easier whilst not in the UK. There was a certain amount of naivety in this, as at the time I didn't know any different. There are a few small bits and pieces I need, so I think I'll have a look on Slaters website and see if there's a 3'6" version available and get them and the other things I need shipped out. I'm always a bit reluctant to do this though, as the only reliable method of getting them to Brunei is by courier, which costs a small fortune. Standard post takes about 8 weeks out here, and even then there's a good chance it won't arrive at all! 

 

 

 

Just standard 3/8inch, 7mm axels - although I'll be using Slaters wheels, it's an Agenoria kit, not a Slaters one :-) I like the idea of the plunger pickups though - not having used them before, it would be a good time to experiment.

In some ways that's a pity. Whilst the 1/8 wheels were not self quartering, the smaller axle would have facilitated the use of one of the multistage gearboxes intended for 4mm locos.

The choice of motor will dictate how you approach every thing else and needs to be an early decision.

Are the wheels a correct Manning Wardle pattern with twin crankpin bosses?

Have you access to some scrap lead? This little loco needs every gramme you can squeeze in. Back in a less health conscious day, I cast a weight to fill the boiler tube.

The coupling rods look like an excellent start.