Manning Wardle L Class 0-6-0 (Agenoria Kit)

[doilum]

Build a small well insulated cabin at the end of the garage. Add windows and power. You are now set for the long haul.

[jdb82]

11 hours ago, doilum said:

Build a small well insulated cabin at the end of the garage. Add windows and power. You are now set for the long haul.

 

Haha! Clearly our minds work in similar ways :-) Although I was thinking more along the lines of a large, well insulated cabin with a windows and power. There must be at lease 3 or 4 meters between the end of the garage and the end of the garden! 

[jdb82]

At risk of appearing as though something might happen soon, Bamburgh has been masked up ready for the first round of paint. I had a rare day today - one without being at work or needing to entertain the daughter. DIY projects have been put to one side for Christmas, and so I set to work taping up any area that's not going to be black. Thanks to my own lack of foresight, I didn't make all the rods, handrails and pipework removable, and so it took an absolute age. If I'm quick with domestic duties on Wednesday, I might actually get some paint on! 

 

[Guest Isambarduk]

On 21/12/2020 at 18:53, jdb82 said:

Bamburgh has been masked up ready for the first round of paint.

I'm interested: if this is going to be 'the first round of paint', why have you started masking off already?

 

David

[jdb82]

1 hour ago, Isambarduk said:

I'm interested: if this is going to be 'the first round of paint', why have you started masking off already?

 

David

 

I asked myself that once I'd got about half way through 

I think I thought I'd get a better finish on the areas which will be green (i.e. the masked areas) if it was painted straight onto the primer. In reality, I'm not sure it would make the slightest difference. It was quite therapeutic just to do something that wasn't work for a change!

[Guest Isambarduk]

43 minutes ago, jdb82 said:

I asked myself that once I'd got about half way through

I see, oh well, nothing lost except some workshop time

 

For what it's worth, my routine for painting a loco (that is not just all black) is:

• Prime and undercoat all over in grey
• Spray buffer beam(s) - red oxide followed immediately with the red
• Spray inside of the cab upper and roof - cream and/or white
• When dry (after a day or two), mask off buffer beam(s) and cream/white areas inside the cab
• Spray all the black areas
• When dry, mask off the black and spray the livery - undercoat (could be grey, red [oxide], brown, green, etc.) to achieve a uniform, dence colour
• Apply just a thin mist of the railway colour as a gloss top coat
• Remove all the masking - any blemishes are most likely in the black, which can be easily touched-up
• Go around all the red/black and the livery/black borders with a lining pen, loaded with black, to achieve crisp demarcations between the colours.

 

When all is throughly dry, I proceed to apply the lining, if appropriate.

 

GWR Saint David by way of an example

 

It's just my way, but I hope it gives you some ideas and thoughts.

 

David

 

 

[jdb82]

Thanks David - very helpful!

[doilum]

Just don't leave the masking tape too long!

[jdb82]

3 hours ago, doilum said:

Just don't leave the masking tape too long!

 Couple of days OK?

 

[Simond]

not much longer!

[Guest Isambarduk]

5 hours ago, doilum said:

ust don't leave the masking tape too long!

The thing is to use low tack masking tape that is designed for jobs such as ours, rather than using conventional masking tape, as used in the automotive trade, for example.

 

I always use Tamiya 6mm wide masking tape and I've left it on for 'many' days without any problems. Humbrol Maskol, on the other hand, can be a bit 'recalcitrant' after a few days; it has to be removed in little pieces, rather than one great springy chunk.

 

 

David

[jdb82]

26 minutes ago, Isambarduk said:

The thing is to use low tack masking tape that is designed for jobs such as ours, rather than using conventional masking tape, as used in the automotive trade, for example.

 

I always use Tamiya 6mm wide masking tape and I've left it on for 'many' days without any problems. Humbrol Maskol, on the other hand, can be a bit 'recalcitrant' after a few days; it has to be removed in little pieces, rather than one great springy chunk.

 

 

David

 

That's good news.....exactly what I used :-)

[jdb82]

Main livery on now  - reasonably happy with it, although it will need a satin coat at some stage. I used a Vallejo ready thinned airbrush paint, which although it's a very 'smooth' matt, it's still not the finish that's right. Very much looking forwards to the weathering stage to tone everything down!

 

 

 

The book I've been referring to for the livery makes no mention of the colour of the wheels. From the black and white photos, they look the same as the frames and footplate, but obviously it's not easy to tell. Debating whether they might be green though? Any thoughts?

 

Lining next, which I am looking forwards to immensely. 

Edited January 3, 2021 by jdb82

[Daddyman]

I've always assumed they were green. If you look at the nearest wheel you can see that the tyre is darker than the centre, with a light line separating the two, which suggests green centres, white line and black tyre - just like an NER or LNER loco. 

[jdb82]

3 hours ago, Daddyman said:

I've always assumed they were green. If you look at the nearest wheel you can see that the tyre is darker than the centre, with a light line separating the two, which suggests green centres, white line and black tyre - just like an NER or LNER loco. 

 

Time for a respray of the wheels then :-) Personally, I think they'll look better in green.

[Mol_PMB]

On 03/04/2018 at 14:16, jdb82 said:

And so comes to an end(ish) my first kit build. There are still a couple of bits to do - altering some of the weathering in a couple of places that the closeup photos have revealed to be not as intended (although I didn't see these whilst I was painting it!), and also I still need to add couplings and vacuum pipes, neither of which I can purchase here in Brunei. I may attempt to make some from scratch at some stage.

 

For a first go, I'm pretty 'chuffed' with it to be honest! Thanks for all the help and advice from everyone who has contributed - I have learnt a huge amount (and still plenty to learn)! Painting and weathering still remain top of my skills list that I need to acquire - it looks great from a distance, but not sure it would pass muster against the pros......

 

Having worked on the wheels a bit, she runs really well, on the one piece of uninterrupted straight piece of track I have. Maybe one day it can have a go on a proper layout.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next up is a Manning Wardle L Class, also from the Agenoria range. With a baby on the way, I have a deadline of mid-September to get it completed by before modelling time becomes even more restricted than it already is!

I know I'm going back a couple of years here, but I've just been looking at this build thread and you've done a great job with the Canal tank, looks like a good kit too.

I've started off in the diesel era of the MSC Railway but some of these survived into the mid-1960s and this is certainly something I will consider for a future model.

Cheers,

Mol

[jdb82]

Cheers Mol, it is a good kit and generally goes together without many problems. They are now available from Ragstone Models I believe. The loco itself is still semi-preserved at Oxenhope as a static display - there's a bit of info about it here: https://kwvr.co.uk/locos/31-hamburg-060t/ 

 

[jdb82]

Finally the lining is done, wheels have been repainted green and the whole thing has had a coat of varnish. I ummed and arrred as to whether to varnish or not......I did various test sprays before deciding whether to give a coat to the model or not, as I found it quite difficult to get a good finish with the gloss varnish. Eventually settled on a good ratio of varnish to thinners, though next time I'll just use a gloss paint to start with. To be honest, I think a lot of the shine will be dulled down with some light weathering anyway, but I reckoned that out of the paint shop it would have been shiny anyway.

Weathering next - at the speed this project has slowed to, it will probably have naturally weathered itself by the time I get round to it!

 

[jdb82]

Had a session grubby-ing up the cab yesterday evening. Rather cruel closeups......whilst I don't claim to be any kind of whizz with a brush, it doesn't look quite as rough in reality!!

 

 

[MarcD]

Looks better than I could have done.

Marc

[jdb82]

OK, I promise I won't share every bit of the loco I weather, but I thought I'd share a small moment of joy this evening. Lets say I'm still developing my artistic eye - the only other loco I painted was the first one in this thread, the Hudswell Clarke canal tank. Parts of the weathering looked OK, and other parts looked awful. I was happy enough for a first attempt, but the aim for Bamburgh was to step it up a level or two. 

 

Over the last few weeks, I have been playing around with different ways of getting the effects I'm after - nothing new and innovative, but I just haven't done much of it before. I've used the airbrush, washes, weathering powers - all of which have their merits, but none that I was completely happy smothering my carefully crafted loco in, that's been 2 years in the making and travelled half way round the world! Today I experimented with oil paints (+thinners), as advocated by Neil Podbury in a video that was part of the O Gauge Guild virtual show a couple of weekends ago. A lovely medium to work with, which are very 'workable'. 

Nothing earth-shattering, but I was quite pleased  I put an un-weathered wheel next to the weathered one to show just how much the green is toned down. A couple of sand boxes too. Now for the rest of the loco......

 

 

Edited March 16, 2021 by jdb82

[jdb82]

This build has been glacially slow, but 3 years almost to the day since starting this kit (way back on page 9), Bamburgh is finally done. Ish. I think the painting and weathering is as good as I'm realistically able to do; she's depicted towards the end of her days in a somewhat unloved state, in contrast to most of her time on the Norther Sunderland railway where she was actually very well looked after.  The loco runs - not perfectly though, mostly due to me bending a coupling rod (page 10) from which it never properly recovered. One day I shall scratch build another, but at the moment I don't think I could build one any more accurately than the one I've already got. Given I have no layout to run it on, she'll do for now. 

 

Weathering in the end was achieved with a mixture of the oil paints described above, and good old weathering powders. Incidentally, it seems as though the powders have a certain amount of metal in them, as the powder is drawn to the magnets in the cab roof, forming annoying circular 'clumps'. I only noticed this after looking at photos I took of the model afterwards, and it's easy enough the spread back out with an old brush.

 

Once again, big thumbs up to Pete Stamper when he owned Agenoria models for designing such a beautiful and easy to put together kit. Now onto the the next project - a manning Wardle Old Class i which I've had a go at designing my own etches and casting for. 

 

Let's indulge in some photos :-) 

 

 

 

[sir douglas]

i like the subtle weathering

[MarcD]

Very nice.

 

Marc

[doilum]

 I may have asked before, but has anyone got basic drawings for the M or Q class?