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Teaky's attic


teaky
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As well as doing a whole load of non modelling work I have had a period of very low motivation.  Despite this I have completed the wood butchery for the storage roads.

 

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It isn't obvious from this photo but the furthest section is a traverser.

 

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The angle at the other end allows for the curved feeder road connecting the storage to the elevator.

 

The tall sides and cross bracing are intended to support a dust cover.

 

Just (ha!) the track to add now.

 

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Keeping the excitement level ...

 

A test track to check rolling stock on.

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Yes, it's a length of track on not one but two pieces of MDF !  :locomotive:

 

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I'll post this here for completeness.  I also repainted the budget rolling road I made a while ago.

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That's probably enough excitement for one day.  Don't want to over do it.

 

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MDF + graph paper + glass + duct tape.  Won't stop me building wonky rolling stock but might help me spot it early on in the build process.

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I'm not sue how much use this will get since the workbench is pretty flat anyway, but I had all the materials in stock so it is no loss if it doesn't prove useful.

 

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Next thrilling instalment.

 

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MDF + fire proof board.

 

The untidy paintwork is down to me concentrating on sealing the edge of the fire proof board.  It has already started to look scruffy after the first bit of soldering anyway.  The reel of solder sits around a screw to keep it still and the other items are secured with double-sided tape.

 

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Paint mixer.

 

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MDF base + small metal pot + motor with eccentric flywheel (inside a plastic case) + connector + 9V battery + battery holder with switch + self-adhesive foam.

 

The pot sits on top of a stack of foam which allows the pot and motor to wobble about.  Total cost: less than £10.

 

Having tried this out on a 14ml tinlet of Humbrol gloss enamel I am not totally convinced it functions as desired.  The tinlet was recently purchased but had been sitting on the shelf for a while and I put a couple of haematite beads in the tinlet to help with stirring but I still had to loosen the thicker residue by manually stirring before finishing using the mixer.  I can see the mixer working well with paint that hasn't separated too much.  Perhaps I was asking too much to expect it to sort out the enamel?  I did try a pot of Docrafts Artiste acrylic which seemed to work well but that wasn't obviously separated to begin with.

 

If I can find one, I may have to experiment with a spring instead of the stack of foam to see if allowing more movement for the pot works better.

 

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6 minutes ago, Flying Fox 34F said:

All the creativity with helpful devices for making models, should jump start your Mojo. I know the feeling well. I haven’t done anything myself for a month.

 

Paul

Thanks Paul.

 

In reality, the key items are the soldering board and a bench for it to sit on.  I have a substantial number of droppers to solder to lengths of track.

 

I'll get going eventually.

 

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30 minutes ago, Stubby47 said:

@Chubber, of this parish, created a small tin holder that would fit in the the jaws of a powered jigsaw...

 

From what I remember, it seemed to work.

That was one of the ideas I considered.  It seemed too fierce though.  I might have revisit that option if I encounter more of the separated paints.

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typo
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Can you turn the tins on their sides? I had an Acme paint tin shaker and it worked well.. then it stopped working and I had to throw it away. I now use an impellee attached to a minidrill. It works ok but turn the drill off before taking it out of the pot ..a very messy result if you don't. 

 

Baz

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3 hours ago, Barry O said:

Can you turn the tins on their sides? I had an Acme paint tin shaker and it worked well.. then it stopped working and I had to throw it away. I now use an impellee attached to a minidrill. It works ok but turn the drill off before taking it out of the pot ..a very messy result if you don't. 

 

Baz

I tried the Humbrol tinlet upright, upside down and sideways but it made no difference.  I reckon the movement is insufficient for the more badly separated paints.  I think I have a small spring somewhere and as soon as I find it I'll see if I can rig things up differently.

 

If this is an occasional problem I can live with it though.  Currently my intention is to try to standardise on Vallejo acrylics and because these will be new I am hoping separation will be minimal.

 

An alternative I have yet to try is a converted coffee frother fitted through a spare tinlet lid via small hole.  I suppose this would be a low power version of your current method.

 

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Latest instalment in the series of tasks designed to avoid actually doing anything layout related.

 

A loco servicing cradle.

 

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Credit must go to Steve Howe on this one.  I pinched it from one he posted a couple of years ago.

 

All off cuts and leftovers apart from the nuts and bolts: 18mm MDF base, 9mm MDF back, wooden angle, self-adhesive foam lining the inside and base.

 

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I realise I may be pushing the excitement boundaries here but I'm going to risk it.

 

A paper towel holder.

 

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Bits and pieces again, this time a circle of plywood and an off cut of old curtain pole.

 

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Probably the final item for the time being.

 

A cradle to hold coaches whilst applying lining.

 

188191332_workbenchliningcradle.JPG.f1d41ebf1958f6bf580fbf935c539a90.JPG

 

MDF base and some blocks with a central slot lined with self-adhesive foam.

 

There are two additional layers of foam on the base of the slot which still have the backing on them so that I can tweak the height of the coach body with the aim of bringing it up to a fraction below the top of the side rests such that when a ruler is placed across the gap it is close to the coach body but not touching it and thus not smudging any wet paint.

 

I have wrapped a block of 18mm MDF in foam and another block of 9mm (not shown) and these go inside the coach body to hold it in place.  The elastic band provides enough pressure to keep everything still.  The whole lot sits on some squares of foam in order to provide space for the elastic band without any rocking.

 

Credit for this idea goes to Mike Trice who, in his series of posts and videos on painting and lining teak coaches, used a selection of books.  I have simply substituted MDF for books.

 

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