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Andrew Barclay 14" & 16" 0-4-0ST in OO Gauge


Hattons Dave
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Because it’s very very scary

No, it isn't. You don't even need anything so fancy as an airbrush. Really, have a go, save yourself some money, rather than pay any of those so-called weathering experts, such as TMC, to do it. All they do is blow some dirty-coloured paint all over with an airbrush and charge an arm and leg for something you can do yourself for nothing.

 

Yes, you have to buy the materials but they will last for many locomotives, wagons and anything else and still come in cheaper than these so-called experts.

 

There's a whole section of this forum where you can see how it's done and pick up tips. Every railway modelling magazine has features on it every so often and you can even buy books on the subject!

 

The Art Of Weathering, by Martin Welch, Wild Swan Publishing - it'll cost you about fifteen quid. I bought a copy years ago and it was worth every penny.

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Axe wielding maniacs are scary.  :butcher:  :jester:

 

 

Weathering not so much. Try and get some cheap models to practice on, you don't need to jump in at the deep end by messing about with £100 models. Old wagons are ideal and can be picked up for a couple of quid.

 

There have been a few good guides available as well as the Welch book. Some might even be in your local library. Always worth a look.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=sr_pg_1?rh=n%3A266239%2Ck%3Aweathering+for+railway+modellers&keywords=weathering+for+railway+modellers&ie=UTF8&qid=1531694568

 

There's also an entire sub forum on this website full of weathering techniques.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/forum/29-weathering-painting-transfers/

 

 

 

Jason

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My pair are now beginning to look less like fairground engines and more like workers, Name and worksplates are from Narrow Planet

 

Fantastic weathering 92912, they really look the part. How did you get that look?

Steve.

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Axe wielding maniacs are scary.  :butcher:  :jester:

 

 

Weathering not so much. Try and get some cheap models to practice on, you don't need to jump in at the deep end by messing about with £100 models. Old wagons are ideal and can be picked up for a couple of quid.

 

There have been a few good guides available as well as the Welch book. Some might even be in your local library. Always worth a look.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=sr_pg_1?rh=n%3A266239%2Ck%3Aweathering+for+railway+modellers&keywords=weathering+for+railway+modellers&ie=UTF8&qid=1531694568

 

There's also an entire sub forum on this website full of weathering techniques.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/forum/29-weathering-painting-transfers/

 

 

 

Jason

 

Absolutely. I possess no airbrush and largely rely on weathering powders - or to be more specific crushed artists pastels - Rowney do a very nice little box containing black, brown, grey and black - all you'll every need. As the man says, my blue Barclay no longer looks like it belongs in a fairground

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Fantastic weathering 92912, they really look the part. How did you get that look?

Steve.

Cheers, I more or less follow Tim Shackleton's methods which are basically

 

Hand brush a layer of grime on then wipe most of it off leaving dirt in hard to reach areas behind handrails etc (photo of Eastfield at this stage with some rust)

 

Then airbrush a grimey mix of dirty black/rust brown/roof dirt particularly on horizontal surfaces and wheels/frames

 

Finish off by highlighting "working" areas with weathering powders/washes (both Barclays need this doing)

 

As others have said weathering isnt scary or difficult with a little practice, and if it doesn't look right meths on a cotton bud will take most of it off and leave a recently cleaned effect

post-5311-0-91563800-1531734938_thumb.jpg

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Just fitted a Lenz mini gold decoder to my Barclay NCB No.10 today but I think it would benefit from a USP1 stay alive module as well. Has anyone managed to get one of these into this small loco? I'm really liking these pictures of weathered locos and I'm going to weather No.10 at some point.

In NCB days my father worked at Waterside, Ayrshire, where No.10 was based and I used to spend some of my school holidays getting footplate rides on the pugs. All of the Waterside pugs were kept fairly clean and dirt wasn't allowed to build up to a great extent so it should just be a fairly light weathering to portray a loco that is hard-working but cared for. 

Happily No.10 is still at Waterside today and is preserved in working order. Although its good to see her still running, my mind goes back to the mid-1970s when she moved her fair share of coal along with the other pugs!

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Yesterday I finally got around to ordering No. 6, having fired her at Bo'ness on various occasions during her many times of station pilot during galas!  The speed at which it arrived however, on par with what is clearly an excellent model.  Well done to Hattons, already seriously considering No. 10.....

My only question is, has anybody had difficulty removing the NEM couplings.  There's a real fear of snapping these off, so what methods have worked best so far that I could implement on my own?

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My only question is, has anybody had difficulty removing the NEM couplings.  There's a real fear of snapping these off, so what methods have worked best so far that I could implement on my own?

I just gripped the coupling between thumb and forefinger, and gave it a sharp tug. It came out of the pocket no problem. I replaced them with Kadee No.19.

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Can anyone tell me what the little detachable  valves on the sides are called .I have manged to damage them whilst stripping my Barclay down for weathering .I shall have to buy or make new ones

thanks in advance

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Can anyone tell me what the little detachable  valves on the sides are called .I have manged to damage them whilst stripping my Barclay down for weathering .I shall have to buy or make new ones

thanks in advance

 

Clack valves. I damaged one on my (ex-) Katie, but since it is all but hidden behind the ladder, I haven't stressed too much about it. 

 

Markits do some clack valve kits of parts that may help you, or you could fashion some new ones out of Milliput, depending on how fussy you are about the detail.

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  • 2 weeks later...

My NCB 6 converted to a 3ft gauge loco in 5.5mm scale. Sorry if this is a heresy!

 

That's actually really nice, it retains the look and feel of the original quite effectively even at the new scale. But that, of course, is precisely the sort of thing that a value-for-money industrial is good for. There's so much you can do with it as a conversion or customisation project.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Yesterday my former Burnley Gas Barclay arrived back from Steve at Grimy Times. Very impressed and he’s done a fabulous job (no connection, just a satisfied customer etc). Just nameplates (on order from NP) to go.
 

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Edited by Chris 66522
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Yesterday my former Burnley Gas Barclay arrived back from Steve at Grimy Times. Very impressed and he’s done a fabulous job (no connection, just a satisfied customer etc). Just nameplates (on order from NP) to go.

attachicon.gif441EE485-178B-4214-BDBC-A2036B681C23.jpeg

Can anyone help get the photo the right way up?

If you right click on the image in windows photo viewer, you should find an option to rotate the image.

 

scR

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