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SECR P Class 0-6-0T in OO Gauge from Hattons


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Well P class 27 in SECR Wainwright livery arrived today. This is my 6th P class and one which means one member of the class is duplicated so this will be the one to be sound fitted at some point.

 

Here are some pics:

 

27 with itself BR days 31027, the BR version has grills on the rear cab windows where as the SECR does not but physically it is the same.

 

post-15098-0-09569800-1533748955_thumb.jpg

 

Here she is with all the other SECR coloured Ps, 27 has tapered buffers whereas the other two full Wainwright liveries have the bottle type.

 

post-15098-0-24205700-1533749116_thumb.jpg

 

Colourful Bluebell engines together, the brass dome colour is much more consistent and better on this latest release. Previous brass domes were on a par with Bachmann, which had a bit of variation (it could look dark or black in certain light, places).

 

post-15098-0-57314500-1533749263_thumb.jpg

 

Here you can compare dome colours with Hornby's H which is brighter and shiny (plated plastic?)

 

post-15098-0-94493800-1533749467_thumb.jpg

 

Overall another great model from Hattons. Hopefully an SECR Maunsell green at some point...

Edited by JSpencer
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  • 2 weeks later...

I received number 27 last week, was a little disappointed the motor was disengaged from the gearbox due to a wire which was over the top of the motor, pushing the worm of the motor upwards.

 

Secondly 27 being preserved like 178 from the earlier batch I was hoping Hattons would of included the SR buffers to help modelling flexibility.

 

So before I send it back would anyone like to swap buffers?

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  • 4 months later...

Several months later how are people finding the performance of these Ps? I ask because my 2 were flawless straight out of the box but have progressively got worse worse and worse and worse. To the point they were both bucking all over the place, bending out the pick ups of 1555 seemed to fix the issue for about 6 laps of my layout before it went back to bucking. Having less luck with the pick ups on 1558, it's very frustrating because they're almost £200 of unused model at the moment and I really like them... I just wish they worked properly...

 

Any suggestions? I *could* send them off for repair but if there is an easy fix I can do myself? I am almost entirely illiterate when it comes to the internal workings of an electric scale model train though...

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Several months later how are people finding the performance of these Ps? I ask because my 2 were flawless straight out of the box but have progressively got worse worse and worse and worse. To the point they were both bucking all over the place, bending out the pick ups of 1555 seemed to fix the issue for about 6 laps of my layout before it went back to bucking. Having less luck with the pick ups on 1558, it's very frustrating because they're almost £200 of unused model at the moment and I really like them... I just wish they worked properly...

 

Any suggestions? I *could* send them off for repair but if there is an easy fix I can do myself? I am almost entirely illiterate when it comes to the internal workings of an electric scale model train though...

 

Several months on, all my 6 Ps are running fine. Maybe the grease in the gear boxes of yours has hardenned a little (drop of oil there?).

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Several months on, all my 6 Ps are running fine. Maybe the grease in the gear boxes of yours has hardenned a little (drop of oil there?).

Thanks for the heads up. I will check mine tomorrow. I have not run it for a few months but it was fine then

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
On 03/01/2019 at 21:49, GreenGiraffe22 said:

Several months later how are people finding the performance of these Ps? I ask because my 2 were flawless straight out of the box but have progressively got worse worse and worse and worse. To the point they were both bucking all over the place, bending out the pick ups of 1555 seemed to fix the issue for about 6 laps of my layout before it went back to bucking. Having less luck with the pick ups on 1558, it's very frustrating because they're almost £200 of unused model at the moment and I really like them... I just wish they worked properly...

 

Any suggestions? I *could* send them off for repair but if there is an easy fix I can do myself? I am almost entirely illiterate when it comes to the internal workings of an electric scale model train though...

 

 

Was having another look at my pair today, it seems they run absolutely fine on curves, but on any straights they just stutter and stop. Most likely a pick up issue right? If I bend the pick ups back against the wheels they'll run fine for about 2 laps and then go back to stopping on straights where the pick ups have un-bent themselves. At the moment I'm only bending out the pickups where I can access them underneath, do I need to take the top off and go in on them from above? 

 

Edit: I thought I fixed one of them just now but after a few laps it's back to stuttering, I think it might be time to send them back for repair or  replacement... 

Edited by GreenGiraffe22
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43 minutes ago, GreenGiraffe22 said:

 

 

Was having another look at my pair today, it seems they run absolutely fine on curves, but on any straights they just stutter and stop. Most likely a pick up issue right? If I bend the pick ups back against the wheels they'll run fine for about 2 laps and then go back to stopping on straights where the pick ups have un-bent themselves. At the moment I'm only bending out the pickups where I can access them underneath, do I need to take the top off and go in on them from above? 

 

 

5

It is most likely the pickups, had to tweak mine on the P's, but the Barclays are the worst for stalling and attention to the pickups.

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On ‎12‎/‎03‎/‎2019 at 11:03, GreenGiraffe22 said:

... If I bend the pick ups back against the wheels they'll run fine for about 2 laps and then go back to stopping on straights where the pick ups have un-bent themselves. At the moment I'm only bending out the pickups where I can access them underneath, do I need to take the top off and go in on them from above? 

 

Edit: I thought I fixed one of them just now but after a few laps it's back to stuttering, I think it might be time to send them back for repair or  replacement... 

Sounds like the metal the wipers are made from is too soft to maintain springiness. If it is a copper alloy - it usually is - then the answer is work hardening, if you can get good access by taking whatever they are mounted on off the model in order to work it. Sometimes just a few rubs applying pressure with a steel rod is all that is required.

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14 hours ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

Sounds like the metal the wipers are made from is too soft to maintain springiness. If it is a copper alloy - it usually is - then the answer is work hardening, if you can get good access by taking whatever they are mounted on off the model in order to work it. Sometimes just a few rubs applying pressure with a steel rod is all that is required.

 

Gents if you have a look back to Nile's post and mine a couple of pages later we have a look at getting the pick-ups to work properly, it requires a steady hand and a good pair of fine tweezers.

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I pre-ordered 323 Bluebell at a stockist a while back, and phoned them recently  to see progress and was told the had not recieved any from Hattons in their latest stock delivery. Looking at the Hattons website, 323 is Sold Out (so not surprised retailers are not getting any).

Hopefully I've found one elsewhere which is now on its way to me.

 

If not, is another batch planned?

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On 15/03/2019 at 16:20, G-BOAF said:

I pre-ordered 323 Bluebell at a stockist a while back, and phoned them recently  to see progress and was told the had not recieved any from Hattons in their latest stock delivery. Looking at the Hattons website, 323 is Sold Out (so not surprised retailers are not getting any).

Hopefully I've found one elsewhere which is now on its way to me.

 

If not, is another batch planned?

I'm also trying to source a 323 Bluebell version. Can you tell me where you managed to source one?

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Frizinghall, but it was their last one in stock, sorry. It seems to be the only one Hattons have sold out of.

Might it be worth calling Hattons to see who they are now supplying stock to, and calling around?

Rails and Kernow list them as 'on-order', so presumably they won't have stock.

 

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On 17/03/2019 at 17:01, G-BOAF said:

Frizinghall, but it was their last one in stock, sorry. It seems to be the only one Hattons have sold out of.

Might it be worth calling Hattons to see who they are now supplying stock to, and calling around?

Rails and Kernow list them as 'on-order', so presumably they won't have stock.

 

 

FWIW Of the 16 models done, 6 have sold out.

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Hey guys, 

 

I currently have the Wartime black 1558, and i'm looking at renumbering it to either 1178, or 1557, if either of them would be appropriate?

 

I've checked the reference book on the P's that I've got and it seems that 1557 would be ok - is anyone able to advise otherwise?

 

Cheers!

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On 14 March 2019 at 21:19, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

Sounds like the metal the wipers are made from is too soft to maintain springiness. If it is a copper alloy - it usually is - then the answer is work hardening, if you can get good access by taking whatever they are mounted on off the model in order to work it. Sometimes just a few rubs applying pressure with a steel rod is all that is required.

Hi, I was pointed in your direction by Truffy.  I've just bought the Hornby Terrier, and the pick up wipers are too soft to maintain the springiness- just as you say., I'm not sure what you mean by 'work  hardening'  though, I'd be grateful if you could explain please- sorry for being a 'numpty!'

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Asking a  question is not being a numpty. Many metals can have their physical characteristics modified by the application of enough force (stress) to permanently change their shape slightly (strain). Copper and its alloys is one of these. If you take a piece of soft copper wire and stretch it until it breaks, you will find it is lot springier.

 

We don't want to go that far with a pick up wiper! But placing the wiper strip on a steel surface, and then applying pressure while wiping a steel rod along it can produce the same effect, making it more springy.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Quick question, should 1555 have the number in small on the front buffer beam? I only ask because the model doesn't, but 1556 clearly did, but no one has said anything about it and there are members on this forum who would be all over it if it was wrong, so maybe it's right for 1555? 

 

Quite the survivor is SECR Wainwright 'P' class  0-6-0T No 1556 depicted here on Kent & East Sussex (KESR) metals circa 1938. The coach is 45' brake compo KESR No. 3, ex SR 6413 formerly LSWR acquired by the KESR in 1932. No. 1556  didn't acquire its BR No. 31556 until March 1950 during its twelve year spell at brighton mpd which ended in 1961. That was followed by sale to the "Pride of Sussex" flour mill at Robertsbridge and eventual preservation on the latter day KESR heritage railway.

 

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I don't watch out for new releases nowadays and I discovered this model at Ally Pally last month. So I am rather late to this topic. The model is the wrong period, the wrong subject and indeed the wrong scale for my layout, but somehow temptation won a few days ago and I now have this:

DSCF9305.jpg.d5a21ee3f1dac497d3f9331eb2a3a816.jpg

 

I think it will be best for me to complete the model as a "stand-alone" subject, if I start looking for a matching train I will get distracted. So I am looking inside the detailing pack.

 

I have added the screw couplers and the heating pipes.

I am imagining, the buffers on the model are for the loco as preserved, and the ones in the detailing pack are for the loco in original condition?

Also please, are the headcode discs supplied a purely Southern Railway thing or would they have an application for my model as a light engine in either its original or preserved conditions?

 

Many thanks and if these questions are answered earlier please accept the picture in lieu of me reading the whole topic. Hattons you really have done the hobby proud with this!

 

- Richard.

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I note that the side rods are one-piece, and not jointed (or even overlapped on the crank pin as per (for example) Hornby's new Duchess). This is a shame, but the only bit of 'made to a price' compromise I can find in the P class. It really is a fantastic model.

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On ‎20‎/‎04‎/‎2019 at 09:53, 47137 said:

I don't watch out for new releases nowadays and I discovered this model at Ally Pally last month. So I am rather late to this topic. The model is the wrong period, the wrong subject and indeed the wrong scale for my layout, but somehow temptation won a few days ago and I now have this:

DSCF9305.jpg.d5a21ee3f1dac497d3f9331eb2a3a816.jpg

 

I think it will be best for me to complete the model as a "stand-alone" subject, if I start looking for a matching train I will get distracted. So I am looking inside the detailing pack.

 

I have added the screw couplers and the heating pipes.

I am imagining, the buffers on the model are for the loco as preserved, and the ones in the detailing pack are for the loco in original condition?

Also please, are the headcode discs supplied a purely Southern Railway thing or would they have an application for my model as a light engine in either its original or preserved conditions?

 

Many thanks and if these questions are answered earlier please accept the picture in lieu of me reading the whole topic. Hattons you really have done the hobby proud with this!

 

- Richard.

 

Yes if want to revert back to original condition, the extra buffers help. You would need to remove the extra lamp irons to the sides of the smokebox door too. And maybe even fit motor train equipment (not supplied)!

 

The discs were used in SECR days as well as preservation. Often at  least one would have a painted black cross which is seen in some preservation pics too. Check some details here (this is post 1917 while the loco is in pre-1912 condition).

http://www.semgonline.com/headcodes/sheadcodes/07.html

 

Edited by JSpencer
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