DJLC Line No16 Ripple

[D869]

A couple of questions for those who've had success with metail foil for corrugated sheet - whether bought or made (and sorry for diverting the thread)...

 

1. How do you cut it to size without squashing the corrugations?

 

2. What do you stick it to and with what glue... without the glue either coming adrift, warping the whole job or spoiling the corrugations as its sets.

 

My questions arise from a previous lack of success with this method. My least bad effort was to cut the foil before corrugating it but then you end up with nothing to hold on to when you are corrugating.

 

I never really found a good answer to question 2 so have used Evergreen 'car siding' which is not the right profile at all but fools the eye if you don't inspect too closely.

 

Regards, Andy

[Caley Jim]

A couple of questions for those who've had success with metail foil for corrugated sheet - whether bought or made (and sorry for diverting the thread)...

In reply:

 

1)   I cut it in strips the length of a 6ft sheet. In fact this was dictated by the fact that the bottle tops I was using only had 14mm of ribbing on them.  I cut them longer than I needed, but remember that corrugating them will take up length.  I found that a 10cm length came down to 9cm when corrugated (I only need 81mm). They were cut to length freehand using the corrugations as a guide.  I didn't make any effort to simulate the joints between sheets.

 

2)  I glued them to a sub-roof of 20thou styrene using Easitrac glue, spread on the roof and then the strip laid on top.  I applied the glue quite generously with the theory that once set it would help give the foil some rigidity.  it is still very delicate where it overhangs the walls and is therefore unsupported.

 

Results can be seen on my layout thread.  The building is now fixed down on the layout, so won't undergo any more handling.

 

HTH

 

Jim

[nick_bastable]

A couple of questions for those who've had success with metail foil for corrugated sheet - whether bought or made (and sorry for diverting the thread)...

 

1. How do you cut it to size without squashing the corrugations?

 

2. What do you stick it to and with what glue... without the glue either coming adrift, warping the whole job or spoiling the corrugations as its sets.

 

My questions arise from a previous lack of success with this method. My least bad effort was to cut the foil before corrugating it but then you end up with nothing to hold on to when you are corrugating.

 

I never really found a good answer to question 2 so have used Evergreen 'car siding' which is not the right profile at all but fools the eye if you don't inspect too closely.

 

Regards, Andy

Andy

 

I have slowly been covering a hop pickers hovel hut ignoring the instructions I have found a sharp scalpel blade works quite well  the easitrac glue is working for me on a card base  hopefully I may get it finished this weekend and will post a picture, so far its looking ok but painting may reveal a different story

 

Nick

[nick_bastable]

Jim/Mark/Jerry  indeed anyone who has made used  "tin strip"

 

A slight plea for help   painting the foil/strip  is been frustrating in as much as achieving a  suitable depth of coverage is at the expense of details  did you use a primer / undercoat ? 

 

I'm using acrylics perhaps this is a mistake

 

thanks

 

Nick

[queensquare]

I cut the foil gently with a sharp scalpel and stick it down with double sided tape which is quick and clean but you only get one chance. I may get some easitrac glue and try that in future. For painting I always prime with a spray of Halfords and then paint in the normal way - I prefer Humbrol enamels.

 

Jerry

[Caley Jim]

Like Jerry I painted it with Humbrol enamels.  I just applied a patchy thin coat of grey allowing the foil to slightly show through (I glue the foil matt side up).   You could apply a second thin coat.   I then dry bush with a 'dark rust' mix.

 

As with all painting jobs, it is best to apply several thin coats in order not to smother the detail.

 

Jim

[nick_bastable]

given the advise from the Maestro(s)  it is likely I have made a bit of a faux pas 

 

time to build Mk3    still they get better with every attempt

 

Nick

Edited January 28, 2018 by nick_bastable

[2mmMark]

A couple of questions for those who've had success with metail foil for corrugated sheet - whether bought or made (and sorry for diverting the thread)...

 

1. How do you cut it to size without squashing the corrugations?

 

2. What do you stick it to and with what glue... without the glue either coming adrift, warping the whole job or spoiling the corrugations as its sets.

 

My questions arise from a previous lack of success with this method. My least bad effort was to cut the foil before corrugating it but then you end up with nothing to hold on to when you are corrugating.

 

I never really found a good answer to question 2 so have used Evergreen 'car siding' which is not the right profile at all but fools the eye if you don't inspect too closely.

 

Regards, Andy

 

I prefer to  cut with scissors which don't seem to deform the foil too much and it can always be reformed using the coffee jar lids.

 

Sticking - Evostick works quite well and so does PVA.  It is a somewhat fragile material and possibly best suited to represent less well maintained structures.

 

Mark

[bécasse]

Nearly 50 years ago, I made the serendipitous discovery that, if you made corrugated "iron" from thin baking foil and stuck it down with a very generous layer of pva adhesive, once everything had thoroughly dried (several days minimum) it was possible to pull off the corrugated foil leaving a remarkably fine representation of corrugated iron formed of dried pva glue - which takes paint remarkably well.

[nick_bastable]

Life has seriously been getting in the way so I have achieved very little the corrugated Iron shed has been built but I'm unhappy with the paint finish so has been put to one side  however I have managed to obtain a Rokuhan   Shorty Powered Chassis which was very cheap and quite nicely constructed if very fast.

 

Thinking on this today I modified a previous design for a Rye and Camber coach to fit given this push pull coach

 

 

 

Test version prior to wasting what little time I have free on a blind alley

 

now the question is does this intrude to much into the windows ?

 

I invite opinions

 

Nick

Edited December 22, 2019 by nick_bastable

[Caley Jim]

now the question is does this intrude to much into the windows ?

 

I invite opinions

I my book, having a loco (or coach) with the motor intruding into the cab/windows is better than no loco/coach.  The Faulhaber motor in my 2-2-2WT pretty much half fills the cab, as does the minitrix one in my 439 class 0-4-4T, but there was no other way to get a motor in either of them at the time.

 

Jim

[bcnPete]

 

now the question is does this intrude to much into the windows ?

 

I invite opinions

 

Nick

Not for me...I find the rapidos more offensive

[nick_bastable]

lasers out of action awaiting a replacement part so no progress on the coach, likewise I find myself short of wire to finish the shuttle feeds 

 

in a rash fit the following was ordered from shapeways with a  few other parts

 

 

 

the plan been to push it via a motorized van   ( we shall see )  

 

Nick

Edited December 22, 2019 by nick_bastable

[Mim]

lasers out of action awaiting a replacement part so no progress on the coach, likewise I find myself short of wire to finish the shuttle feeds 

 

in a rash fit the following was ordered from shapeways with a  few other parts

 

20180403_162524.jpg

 

the plan been to push it via a motorized van   ( we shall see )  

 

Nick

Looking forward to seeing this. I also looked at making a 2mm model of Gazelle. I wondered if it would be possible to build it in its original 2-2-2T open/no cab form, rather than the 0-4-2T it was converted to for the Shropshire and Montgomeryshire railway. Just for added fun I wondered if it was possible to have it self powered, rather than by a separate coach, or van. I found a 3.2mm motor that could fit in the boiler, with a little bit of adjustment for gear meshing. The very smallest CT DCC decoder might just fit in the well tank area at the rear. DCC was needed to restrict power to the 3V motor. I've made no allowances for wiring and wires are a significant part of the internal volume. Thought of making the footplate in PCB for combination wiring and split frame isolation. An association 21:1 single stage gear set would have the worm protruding from the firebox, but this could be hidden by the crew. How the worm might be supported so the end thrust didn't destroy the tiny motor I don't know. I suspect that whitemetal crew and passengers would be a major part of the overall weight! If this could actually be built and work I doubt. The torque from the motor at realistic speeds would be tiny, but the engine was built as a gentleman's private conveyance, so it wouldn't have to haul anything. The buffers and draw gear were too low for connecting to conventional standard gauge stock. If it is actually practical then I don't have the skills to do it!

 

I did put together a 3D model of the major components to see how they fitted. Engine body in blue, DCC decoder in green and wheels, axle muffs, gears and motor in red.

Mim

Edited April 4, 2018 by Mim

[nick_bastable]

Looking forward to seeing this. I also looked at making a 2mm model of Gazelle. I wondered if it would be possible to build it in its original 2-2-2T open/no cab form, rather than the 0-4-2T it was converted to for the Shropshire and Montgomeryshire railway. Just for added fun I wondered if it was possible to have it self powered, rather than by a separate coach, or van. I found a 3.2mm motor that could fit in the boiler, with a little bit of adjustment for gear meshing. The very smallest CT DCC decoder might just fit in the well tank area at the rear. DCC was needed to restrict power to the 3V motor. I've made no allowances for wiring and wires are a significant part of the internal volume. Thought of making the footplate in PCB for combination wiring and split frame isolation. An association 21:1 single stage gear set would have the worm protruding from the firebox, but this could be hidden by the crew. How the worm might be supported so the end thrust didn't destroy the tiny motor I don't know. I suspect that whitemetal crew and passengers would be a major part of the overall weight! If this could actually be built and work I doubt. The torque from the motor at realistic speeds would be tiny, but the engine was built as a gentleman's private conveyance, so it wouldn't have to haul anything. The buffers and draw gear were too low for connecting to conventional standard gauge stock. If it is actually practical then I don't have the skills to do it!

 

I did put together a 3D model of the major components to see how they fitted. Engine body in blue, DCC decoder in green and wheels, axle muffs, gears and motor in red.

Mim

I did consider the 2-2-2 arrangement but the print is solid so would require considerable modification to alter

 

I can just about manage 2d but 3d CAD defeats me  nice work

 

NIck

[nick_bastable]

Almost a year since a update complete modelers block  aka Black Dog   however have got the narrow gauge running again and looked again at the buildings

 

 

 

 

the rooves of the Oast took several attempts  and covering with tiles may be a challenge however first real modelling I have done for many a long month and slowly getting inspired 

 

Nick

 

 

Edited December 22, 2019 by nick_bastable

[nick_bastable]

Slight progress tiling the conical rooves was beyond me so Oast has been redrawn as a square kiln together with   a couple of thunder boxes a revised hoppers hut and kitchen 

 

Oast needs gutters,  down pipes and flashing and all need touching up and weathering ,  I can not put it off any longer and need to commence ballasting  next    I have a plan ( we will see) for the fields themselves but these are very much a last stage 

 

 

 

Nick

Edited December 22, 2019 by nick_bastable

[bcnPete]

Good progress Nick

[Yorkshire Square]

Very nice. What did you use for your tiles?

[nick_bastable]

28 minutes ago, Yorkshire Square said:

Very nice. What did you use for your tiles?

thank you

 

tiles are scalescenes printed on a laser to prevent ink runs

 

Nick

[nick_bastable]

A little progress I have drawn and started to cut the back boards and facia  although I do not wish to add them yet, however wanted to cut the rebates for the tongues of the end board prior to proceeding further,  these proved easier than thought.  The station building is a copy of Chichester station building on the Selsey Tramway (  plan via CSS) 

 

 

 

starting to get a feel for what I wish to try to achieve

 

Nick

Edited December 22, 2019 by nick_bastable

[bcnPete]

That’s looking good Nick

[nick_bastable]

Finally got some motivation going and spent most of the day hooking it all up, the difficulty been the N6.5 runs 8.2v DC while the standard gauge is DCC   using multiple cheap relay boards and some luck I have succeeded in keeping the two apart and arranged it that if the N6,5 is switched to the dual gauge section DCC is cut to these rail,  a thorough testing with a meter showed no issues.   Having spent several  evenings last week   going through my  locomotives,  having realized that JMRI was on my old laptop, reloading JMRI  identifying locos I was ready to test.   It works a bit rough in places but  basically there ( although a class 24 derails at the toe of the point in one direction but  not when turned round   any ideas uses association drop in wheels and B2B looks good ? ).  Still have the uncoupling servos to fit but they are straight forward.

 

And now the bad news after quite successful testing the tie bar broke  as ever  two steps forward and one back think I will replace with a simple pcb version as retro fitting a Easitrac version will  be tricky

 

 

 

 

 

Nick

Edited December 22, 2019 by nick_bastable

[DavidLong]

Hi Nick,

 

Occasionally I have had a similar problem with locos using both conversion wheels and also the turned-down variety from Gordon. You need to be sure that other items pass through the point ok before being certain that it is a loco problem. There can be a problem with the wheels not centring properly so you need to check that the pick ups are applying even pressure to the wheels. The pick ups will have needed to be bent out further as our b-to-b is wider than N.

After that I generally resort to shuffling the wheels around and testing the loco through the offending point.

I use DG couplings single-ended so if the loco passes through pointwork in one direction but not the other then that is the way round it will always run with the couplings fitted appropriately. A bit of a cop out maybe . . .

 

David

[nick_bastable]

I have managed to replace the tiebar and it was not quite the drama I expected.   I may well adopt David's con of running the 24 the right way round.  Now having  successfully repaired the point its back to track testing with a lot of stock which will never run or even fit ( CEP's )

 

 

Nick

Edited December 22, 2019 by nick_bastable