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22 hours ago, BoD said:

Any one know how to pebbledash in 4mm to the foot?

 

In Scotland it's called "harling".  Not yet tried replicating it in 4mm, though.

 

Alasdair

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When I painted Glenfinnan station building I used a testor pot from B&Q. It is a fairly thick consistency and using a small flat brush, starting from just under the gutter dab the paint on and work along lengthways, work your way down the wall , overlapping each time till you reach the bottom. Allow to dry overnight. It took 3 coats to complete the effect I needed. You can find a pic here on the forum.

Bill.

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Over the last few weeks life seems to have got in the way of things.  I have completed the house, after a fashion and its one of those 'it looks ok at normal viewing distance ones'  I'm afraid.  Its also one of those that I hope looks better when it is tidied up and 'planted' in its garden.

 

house4.jpg.2191f5b58b8f642ff769781f8cefc2c8.jpg

 

house2.jpg.317f8439bb558cad4c76874cdc1153c5.jpg

 

house1.jpg.e485d9d14a77ac9354445d6ddaae0fc0.jpg

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On 11/04/2020 at 15:37, gordon s said:

Ah, no wonder I was getting confused.....

 

I was always under the impression that they were switches, either illuminated or with standalone led's. I will want to operate all turnouts via the mimic panel as using the ECoS is not that easy for the reasons I have given. The ECoS track plan can only be constructed in straight lines as it works on a grid. It's small and my eyesight is not 100% and lastly, my fingers need to push things properly, not tap away like a fairy with a wand......

 

Here's what I mean...

 

ECoS...

 

828238131_DSCF0291(2).jpg.7bcddc9108a138f6af427c9307d190fb.jpg

 

Reality..

 

sketchboard_2020_03_27_1921_04.jpg.1f063dcc4fe1bceba7c178719ce7072c.jpg

 

Bear in mind the ECoS pic is nearly twice as big on my screen and the real track plan would be 50% bigger than the above pic on any mimic panel.

 

The whole point of setting up a mimic panel was to get away from playing around on the handset. ET was originally set up as DCC locos, but with an analogue panel controlling the pointwork. What I want is the flexibility of DCC in terms of setting routes and signals etc, but operated by an analogue look alike panel which is actually digitally feeding into the sniffer port of my ECoS.

 

Maybe I was getting confused with Megapoints as they seem to have a similar product. What put me off theirs was the non instantaneous response. You press a button and the leds flash for a second or two before staying on.

 

I've just seen a couple of PM's from Mick, so I'll read those and digest...

Dean Park Station has recently posted a video on YouTube that you should find helpful...

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Many thanks Warren. Just watched it from start to end. It certainly looks a lovely layout and the video was very clear and concise. Couple of differences I picked up though. He's using solenoids versus Tortoise motors and appears to have discarded the whole ECoS control/track plan diagram in favour of a complete DCC Concepts mimic and switching panel.

 

I can see that step creeping over the horizon, but still see some advantage in using the ECoS route setting system. The problem there is that you cannot add any text or numbers to the ECoS panel, so it's hard to know which route is which without a look up table and that really defeats the object. I found it interesting that flicking a toggle switch fed back through the sniffer panel into the ECoS and that changed the display within the ECoS.

 

I wonder if that could be done with routes? Have an external routing panel with a switch that feeds back into the ECoS and triggers the route switching.....

 

Still undecided about red/green led's. As you know I have the plain green ones, but can see the advantage of red/green as the red is more obvious than no light at all. Means returning them to Hatton's for exchange and it may be too late now.....

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if you make a grand station building in Midland style (or LNWR Style) and make a minor mistake BoD I know where you can chuck it out to!

Baz

 

just saying like...

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I’ve spent the last two days casting rock faces and outcrops.  I’m bored.
 

 

I’ll not post any pictures otherwise you would be bored too.

See how considerate I am?

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1 hour ago, BoD said:

I’ve spent the last two days casting rock faces and outcrops.  I’m bored.
 

 

I’ll not post any pictures otherwise you would be bored too.

See how considerate I am?

 

I know the feeling! Mind you I dont mind a few pics of rock outcrops ;)

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On 13/06/2020 at 20:32, BoD said:

I’ve spent the last two days casting rock faces and outcrops.  I’m bored.
 

 

I’ll not post any pictures otherwise you would be bored too.

See how considerate I am?

I keep looking at my mould and bag of plaster thinking I should make a start. I'm a long way from needing them yet but I don't want to get bored too.

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On 15/05/2020 at 09:07, Regularity said:

Is it actually the downpipe for the gutter? Zoom in, and it appears to crank outwards at the top, and there is what could be a mounting clasp towards the bottom.

I was just catching up with this thread and thought exactly that. There's definitely a downpipe and it looks like it's causing a shadow. It looks flush to my eye.

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4 minutes ago, mallaig1983 said:

I was just catching up with this thread and thought exactly that. There's definitely a downpipe and it looks like it's causing a shadow. It looks flush to my eye.

I should of kept reading before commenting. You have a very keen eye Sir as the later photos prove. Excellent modelling.

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Having completed the majority of the buildings it is time to take a break from them and work on somewhere to plant them all which means getting rid of the flat earth with holes in it and spending some time creating the landform and scenicky  bits.

 

I was lucky enough to win the £100 Hatton's voucher in the virtual exhibition a couple of months ago so I spend it on some woodland scenic bits and pieces.

 

P1060854.jpg.2724cd938c43cc0ba50618b141d52a91.jpg

 

Added to some bits and pieces I already had should give me enough to be going on with.

 

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If you look at the prices on there you can work out how long I've had some of them. This one I've had even longer......

 

DSCF0250.JPG.254f63f89ed86f3b350740c48d6fbf5e.JPG

 

To make going backwards and forwards easier I have removed the door bridging section.  Normally I just leave this in and crawl under.

 

P1060892.jpg.0c5ba7bb2f3e6561599b8244f81a275e.jpg

 

It will remain out until I've finished forming the scenery because there is a lot of cutting of formers etc and going back and forth.  .  It means the layout is no longer a full circuit but I can operate it end to end if I fancy a bit play.  As long as I don't forget and drive trains into the gap and over the edge!!!!

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I have decided to bridge the corner to the branch line with a viaduct I rescued from a previous layout.  I allows me at least to run trains.  I will replace it with a WHL style viaduct eventually.  Unless it grows on me, then I might say "stuff it" and just leave it in.

 

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P1060905.jpg.09ce2399cb48c81f5a057f66b8a880f9.jpg

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BoD that viaduct looks great. 

 

Found a bag of Peco scatter stuff my Dad bought.. cheaper than yours! 17p from NuSto... could be it is lot older than your - it appears  to have been green but is green with a hint of orange now..

 

Baz

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2 hours ago, young37215 said:

It's not a million miles away from the viaduct at Glen Ogle which would be a fantastic area to model.

 

 


I’ve driven up Glen Ogle a few times with one eye on the road and another on the scenery and path of the old railway.  It’s not that difficult to do when you’re stuck behind a caravan.  The whole area, Callander car park, , Killin and  Crianlarch Lower just oozes a ghostly historical atmosphere. 
 

Given the now fictitious nature of my layout that is a good excuse to keep that viaduct, especially as it us on the ‘branch’ line.  We shall see.

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