Electrofrog points...

[matto21]

Hi all,

 

I'm new to using electrofrog points and I'm terrible at electrics generally.

 

As per my crude plan below, where would I need to use insulated fishplates?

 

Any advice gratefully accepted!

 

Matt

[Suzie]

assuming you will not be installing full cab control, common return, or full power routing, these two options are probably best to consider:-

 

 

[Butler Henderson]

And in the interests of not running wire the length of the layout for no necessary reason the red feed Suzie has marked to the left of point B can be applied at any location on that rail to the left of the blue isolating break. Equally the red feed to the right of point A can be anywhere along the same rail through point C to the end of the siding, while the black feed anywhere along the same rail through point B to the end of the headshunt.

[Suzie]

And in the interests of not running wire the length of the layout for no necessary reason the red feed Suzie has marked to the left of point B can be applied at any location on that rail to the left of the blue isolating break. Equally the red feed to the right of point A can be anywhere along the same rail through point C to the end of the siding, while the black feed anywhere along the same rail through point B to the end of the headshunt.

 

Correct, that will work fine.

 

 

The previous version was based on the idea that the main feed is likely to be where the track continues to the rest of the world.

[matto21]

Thank you both for commenting.

 

In the example above (post 4), and bear with me, how does the second rail to the bottom siding get power (i.e not connected to red)?

 

I'm also wanting to use point motors for the first time, anything I need to think about?

 

Matt

[Suzie]

Thank you both for commenting.

 

In the example above (post 4), and bear with me, how does the second rail to the bottom siding get power (i.e not connected to red)?

...

 

It is connected via the frogs of points 'A' and 'C' so the feed comes via whatever switching arrangement you have for the frogs.

 

 

...

I'm also wanting to use point motors for the first time, anything I need to think about?

 

Matt

 

You really need to have motors that include some form of frog switching, or will work with a frog switch.

 

Since you are DC it is best to get motors that have a double pole switch - one to switch the frog polarity, and the second pole to provide separate power routing should you want to go that way later on. For example the red feed to the left of point B is best fed via a switch that works in conjunction with point 'B' to make that stub self isolating and independent of point 'C'. This makes operating simpler and more intuitive at the expense of slightly more complex wiring. This becomes more important if you want to use common return wiring and cab control.

 

Suitable motors include:-

 

Solenoid - Peco PL10(E)(W) + PL15 switch

 

Slow Motion - Tortoise

 

Servo - Signalist SB1 with two V4 microswitches.

 

 

The different motor types require different control systems and wiring (solenoids require a CDU, fat wiring and high current switches, tortoise require double pole changeover switches or a split rail supply, and servos require a servo controller) so the choice is not always straightforward.

Edited October 5, 2017 by Suzie

[Dungrange]

The lower siding in post #4 will only be powered when both points A and C are correctly set: A to the diverging line and C to the straight line.  The current from the black feed will flow from left to right, through the switch at A and C to the siding.

[Spitfire2865]

If you wish to have all track powered at any given time, regardless of point throw, (DCC and recommended Modern DC wiring), you need an insulated joiner at the ends of every frog rail, and feeds for all track sections.  

Yes its more wiring, but in most cases relying on point blade contact for frog polarity and track power leads to headache later on.

If using Peco electrofrog, just make sure you snip the wires connecting the frog to the blades and its recommended to solder feeds from the stock rails to the blades to not rely on physical contact to keep the blades powered.  

Now you can power the frogs via a double throw switch.  

 

I would even recommend fitting power feeds to every individual section of track to not rely on rail joiners for power.  

[Butler Henderson]

For years I used electrofogs without bothering with wiring the frogs except when it became necessary on the odd one (and then never bothered to break the connection on the switch rails). Admittedly nowadays it is far simpler to wire the frogs as Peco have modified most of their Streamline points (but not the Code 100 Small Y) to enable the frog to be wired easily and ample space left for soldering a wire between the stock and switch rails