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Maid’s Morton


DavidMcKenzie
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13 hours ago, shanks522 said:

Love the last photo, the layout is looking great as is the 47! Its going to be hard to tell the difference between model and real thing! 

 

Graham. 

 

Thanks for the kind comment Graham. I've been really enjoying the modelling this winter and I think the enjoyment I've had is also slowly showing on the layout.

 

I'm very impressed with the work Farish have done on the new 47s. Even newbies like me can turn one into a satisfying and pretty realistic model with just a bit of weathering.

 

All the best

Dave

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1 hour ago, DavidMcKenzie said:

 

 

I'm looking forward to seeing your efforts on 47210. Your modelling is always top notch. Will that be a new addition for BOT? 

 

All the best

Dave

 

 

It will indeed sir!!

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

IMG_20190410_221230.jpg.324a8c26347267c29e17e5e948c50bd0.jpg

 

I didn't realize putting up fences would be so time consuming :) . But at least the far side of the track is now finished. It's the kind of thing that'll probably go un-noticed when it's finished, but should all add to making something half realistic in the end. 

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1 hour ago, RBE said:

Looking good. What did you use for the wires themselves?

Thanks for the kind comments :). I used EZ line. I am a fan of Swiss railways and layouts and although they often model the wires I didn't like the thick look of how it's often done with summerfield type wires, they just standout too much in my opinion. I like that the EZ line is there but it doesn't stand out. It is also more obvious from 'below' than 'above' which is think is probably typical of the real thing. The elastic is also very handy. I've already caught it a few time's and done no damage at all. It just pings back into place. One downside to it is that a panatograph probably couldn't ever touch the wires when a train's running. It's just sitting below the wire's.

 

There are a number of colours. I've gone for white, but have no experience of the other colours available, just read online to avoid the black because it disappears into the background. 

 

All the best

Dave

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Hi Dave I've heard of the EZ line method before. Doesn't look bad. I have considered it in the past but it doesnt look easy to make the curved top catenary wire and straight contact wire with droppers. It does look fine though. What diameter is it do you know?

 

As for colour, real wires look light green.

 

My next layout will be based on the ECML, mainly due to our class 91 project, and I was planning on doing guitar string OHLE again as I did with Outon Road, the wires would be a tad overscale though at 0.2mm diameter but I think it should still look good. Would like the pans to run on it but it depends how I do the pan design on our 2mm scale class 91.

 

Edited by RBE
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Absolutely stunning David . Set's the scene perfect.

You should be really proud of what you have achieved considering its not done very often in N 

 

Keep up the good work fella 

 

Phil 

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16 hours ago, RBE said:

Hi Dave I've heard of the EZ line method before. Doesn't look bad. I have considered it in the past but it doesnt look easy to make the curved top catenary wire and straight contact wire with droppers. It does look fine though. What diameter is it do you know?

 

As for colour, real wires look light green.

 

My next layout will be based on the ECML, mainly due to our class 91 project, and I was planning on doing guitar string OHLE again as I did with Outon Road, the wires would be a tad overscale though at 0.2mm diameter but I think it should still look good. Would like the pans to run on it but it depends how I do the pan design on our 2mm scale class 91.

 

The one I've used is '0.2mm' thick. If I was to do it again I would consider using the '0.5mm' for the lower wire. It seems to get thinner as it stretches and the lower wire is (I think) thicker in reality. I am also not sure the thickness quoted by EZ line is exact.

 

I will try to take some pictures as I go doing the next 3 lines. Like most things in life I found it easier after a bit of practice. What worked for me was to make the lower wire tight and the upper wire with just the slightest tension. Then I would glue the dropper wires to the upper first and then pull on the dropper wire to set the tension and the sag in the upper wire and then glue it to the lower whilst waiting for the glue to hold (usually around 30secs). It will probably be clearer with pictures and no need to do it the same way as me in the future. But it might be useful info if you are going to attempt something similar.

 

Looking again at some reference pictures I agree about the light green, I am now just worried it would all be hidden by the green background and not be vizable. If I am feeling brave I might attempt a light painting/washing.

 

Looking forward to seeing you ECML layout and the class 91 take shape :)

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Thanks to all for the kind comments.

 

Porkie It is a shame not more people give it a go in N gauge. I would not consider myself and expert modeller by any means, but the difference it makes to the feel of the layout is huge. I am sure there are people out there capable of doing better, just a shame most people seem put off by it.

 

Benjamin it would be great to see you turning the clock back to the mid/late 90s :)

 

All the best

Dave

Edited by DavidMcKenzie
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Thanks Dave.

 

The same diameter as the guitar string then. I think I will probably do it with wire just because I did before and its a know entity for me. It will also mean I can run the pan along the wire if possible.

 

You are correct that the contact wire is slightly thicker than the cantenary wire. The real contact wire is 15mm diameter and the cantenary if I can remember without my notes is nearer 10mm. On Outon Road I did the two the same at 0.22mm which works out around 17mm in 4mm scale.

 

The EZ line says 0.25mm as their diameter. The 0.22mm guitar string will be slightly thinner and the soldered construction shoukd be pretty robust.

 

Needless to say I will watch your progress with interest and start a thread on here with the new layout once I make a start.

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12 hours ago, DavidMcKenzie said:

 

 

Porkie It is a shame not more people give it a go in N gauge. I would not consider myself and expert modeller by any means, but the difference it makes to the feel of the layout is huge. I am sure there are people out there capable of doing better, just a shame most people seem put off by it.

 

 

All the best

Dave

 

If I wasn't using the Dapol masts, I would definitely be interested in trying to attach the wires. But just not possible at the moment as my masts rotate to give rail access for cleaning 

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Hi,

 

The pictures of constructing the wires on the 4th line didn't really show anything. It was very hard to see what was what (see below). So I've just added some photo's of a testing (playing) session once all four line's were completed.

All the best

Dave

 

IMG_20190416_174344.jpg.b77ce29ec2a58aea4ec7fe5ac5e32ada.jpg

 

IMG_20190418_220058.jpg.6f64a97387f3905bc5bd1b8e4e994aef.jpgIMG_20190418_220321.jpg.ec642f5fadfdc22c8a459278601f04f1.jpgIMG_20190418_220824.jpg.9debab7967ec6d665183396cf92b72a6.jpg

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