Broken Realtrack Class 143 with OEM Sound

[Novco007]

HI All,

 

I had my 143 running for the first time during the summer, as I have an layout that can only be used outside, I am dependent on the weather.  I took a short video of the 143 with sound running, it was working fine, but when I tried to use it on the reverse direction it just would not work. Tried ii again in the ordinal direction it worked and stopped.  Sound working, but the motor was dead.

 

I have now taken apart the motor unit and found that the chip and sound is in the non motor.  Long story short. I connected a 9v DC battery directly to the motor and it spins.

 

But when I check continuity, I found that I can get the beep that continuity is there across the motor.  I assume that this should not be the case?

 

I also can see a small PCB around the edge of the chassis and a (IMG_5463) label section that shows the connections from the 8 pin joining connector used between the motor and no-motor units.  What is odd, that one of those connections has continuity to both sides of the motor and the other none?  One inspection I can not see anything that would be indicating a short?

 

 

 

Thanks

Edited October 14, 2017 by Novco007

[Chrisr40]

I'm not very technically minded but the solder joints on the wires far left of the last picture look decidedly manky. Have you tried cleaning them off with a bit of pick up cleaner or isopropyl alcohol ? In case there is a short between them.

 

Hope you find a fix

 

Chris

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

... I connected a 9v DC battery directly to the motor and it spins...

Good, motor is fine.

 

... when I check continuity, I found that I can get the beep that continuity is there across the motor.  I assume that this should not be the case?...

No. There has to be continuity between the motor brushes - via the commutator and windings - for the motor to work.

 

....a (IMG_5463) label section that shows the connections from the 8 pin joining connector used between the motor and no-motor units.  What is odd, that one of those connections has continuity to both sides of the motor and the other none?  One inspection I can not see anything that would be indicating a short?...

If both the motor connections had continuity to both sides of the motor, then you would have a running unit. It's not a short circuit you are looking for, but an open circuit: and it's in that motor connection that you found has no continuity to the motor.

 

Could be a dry solder joint, or a break in the copper cores inside the wire insulation, as the 'usual suspects'. These are typical of assembly faults that lead to 'infant mortality', which is exactly what you have described.

 

A simple fix, either for yourself or the retailer, according to taste...

[Oldddudders]

I am under the impression that Realtrack is one of the more user-friendly manufacturers. Have you spoken to them at all?

[Barry O]

I am under the impression that Realtrack is one of the more user-friendly manufacturers. Have you spoken to them at all?

They are at Peterborough this weekend....

[Barry O]

Have you tried a factory reset?

[Perfect Paul]

Sorry to hear about your recent issues with your model.

In my experience,I'm sure that when given information about your situation,Charlie & Arran's professionalism and passion for quality, as well as good old fashioned customer service would be clear for all to see.They really do strive for perfection.

 

(General disclaimer : I have no connection with Realtrack, other than being a very satisfied customer)

[charliepetty]

Have you tried a factory reset?

Hi there REALTRACK here!!  Is the unit 8 pin inter car coupling connected correctly, IE all 8 pins in the correct holes, not the 4 top males into the bottom 4 females??

 

1/  Have you tried the decoder in another loco??   Does it work that loco/

 

2/  If you fit a Blanking plate, does it work on DC.

 

3/  A common issue on layouts with tight curves is the motor wires can break between the plug & the circuit board on either car.

 

Charlie

[Novco007]

HI All,

 

Thanks for all the pointers.

 

I have yet to remove the body from the over unit that has the chip within.

 

But I think after the responses the wires in to the motor are OK from the locations I can check.  Even from under the PCB board where the connector is, the wires check out.

 

I am sure that I am connecting the two rows of pins correctly as I can turn the lights on and off using F0.

 

I will see if I can remove the body this weekend and check the cables within that unit.

 

Thanks

 

Chris

[Novco007]

On 15/10/2017 at 21:55, charliepetty said:

Hi there REALTRACK here!!  Is the unit 8 pin inter car coupling connected correctly, IE all 8 pins in the correct holes, not the 4 top males into the bottom 4 females??

 

1/  Have you tried the decoder in another loco??   Does it work that loco/

 

2/  If you fit a Blanking plate, does it work on DC.

 

3/  A common issue on layouts with tight curves is the motor wires can break between the plug & the circuit board on either car.

 

Charlie

 

Hi Charlie,

 

As we are now all at home, any chance you could take a look at the 143 I sent you in June?

 

Thanks 

 

Chris

[Novco007]

Hi Charlie,

 

i have called and and emailed you about returning my 143 that I sent to you to look at back in June 2018,  yes over two years ago.

 

i can I please get this returned.  It has sound and people within.

 

i appreciate that you are busy, but with a loco that cost £250 that does not work, I can at least recover the sound chip and fit in to one of my other Locos I have .

 

thanks

 

Chris