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Layout-in-a-box Construction


SquireBev
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For the little N-gauge Inglenook I'm planning, the idea is for the whole thing to be built inside a wooden box rather than on a traditional baseboard, so it can be easily transported and put away when not in use.

 

The track plan is designed to fill a space 2'x8", so assuming I use 9mm plywood, the finished box will be a little over 2'x8"x8", with a fixed base, back, and sides, and the top and front hinged in order to fold open and over the back to provide a working area for the controller etc. There'll be a batten along the "open" edge at the front/top.

 

Hopefully it'll make a bit more sense from this diagram:

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5MhNBRTd_ysanhhVi1OaHR0VTg

 

Although I have built layouts before, they've always been on traditional baseboards, with an MDF surface on a framework of timber battens. I'm rather feeling around in the dark on this one, so I'm hoping the more experienced modellers here can offer help and advice.

 

 

Firstly, is 9mm plywood the right thing to use? I'm hoping it'll be strong enough to hold its shape without requiring a supporting framework, while still being light enough to carry. I am a bit concerned about drilling into the ends of plywood, and finding suitable hinges and screws to fit them!

 

 

Any advice you can offer will be gladly received!

post-12808-0-34666400-1508241962_thumb.png

Edited by SquireBev
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Will you have actuators or point motors under the "baseboard"? If so you need to allow room for that - so make the box H shaped in section.

 

It's easier to fit panels together if you have some small battens at the joints because you can screw through ply into the batten rather than into the edge of plywood. And it's easier to fit batten exactly square and in line than to fix two bits of ply square and in line with each other.

 

If you use battened joints then the plywood is more about holding the box square than being structural in itself (providing "racking resistance") and in that case you could go down to 6mm for perhaps all the side and ends, leaving just the baseboard 9mm.

 

I started working out a similar plywood box for a OO Minories layout and posted some shots of a Sketchup model in the "Minories track plan wanted" thread. I'll link to it later (after work...)

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Ooh, righto. Plenty to think about.

 

The points will be manual, so no need for anything under the baseboard.

 

I'll have a think about how to hide battens in my scenery if you reckon that's the way to go.

 

Thanks for the quick reply!

Edited by SquireBev
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I suggest putting the battens on the outside and underneath so the inside of the box is clean and simple for modelling. That works fine if you don't mind what the outside looks like and the battens can be used as handles when it's closed.

Edited by Harlequin
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This was once all the rage with Ikea storage boxes.  I have tried looking for them but cannot find them.  They were ottoman/blanket box size and were ideal for small layouts.

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I found the name of the box (Apa) and several examples of their use on RMweb - this is an example:

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/81699-apa-park-n-gauge-in-an-ikea-box/

 

There may be some ideas in and around this and similar threads for you.

Interesting stuff. The idea of using the lid to extend the board is a very good one.

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Interesting stuff. The idea of using the lid to extend the board is a very good one.

 

Indeed, the whole idea of the kind of operational opportunities available in a small space fascinates me.  If only because then I only HAD a small space.  The thought of being able to fold things out of the way into a box to keep clean and safe was very interesting.  Paul's idea of a folding Minories is excellent - even more so in N gauge! Sadly I cannot see N gauge any more.

 

Have you seen: http://www.carendt.com/ Which gives even more ideas.

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Ahh yes, I used to follow Small Layout Scrapbook years ago. I'd no idea it was still updated!

 

Anyway, I've thought about it, and I've come up with two options for increasing the space available to me.

 

The first one is to build the box in two sections - front/top/left and base/back/right. The one can be slid off the other, turned upside down, and placed end-to-end, creating a scenic section twice as long.

 

The other is to have two sections base/back/sides and front/top, as in my original plan, but do away with hinges and have the front/top section placed end-to-end with the other, with the open side to the back, creating a fiddle yard and storage area. This option will be easier it'll avoid having to interlock the scenery in both halves, plus it'll keep with the Inglenook theme.

Edited by SquireBev
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So after a very quick play around in Sketchup (useful program, thanks for making me aware of it!), I've got plans for a closed box, and both options for opening:

 

post-12808-0-33853000-1508275790_thumb.png

 

post-12808-0-17936600-1508275804_thumb.png

 

post-12808-0-57467500-1508275817_thumb.png

 

Still reckon the second option is favourable for the reasons mentioned above, and also because it's always nice to have an "off-scene" section to work in.

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So after a very quick play around in Sketchup (useful program, thanks for making me aware of it!), I've got plans for a closed box, and both options for opening:

 

attachicon.gifLayoutBoxClosed.png

 

attachicon.gifLayoutBoxOpen1.png

 

attachicon.gifLayoutBoxOpen2.png

 

Still reckon the second option is favourable for the reasons mentioned above, and also because it's always nice to have an "off-scene" section to work in.

 

I would agree, UNLESS a) you have/want something like a traverser for your "fiddle yard" which may not fit in that configuration (you would have to raise the viewable area to allow for the traverser transport mechanism) or b) you want a roundy roundy in some way (where the fiddle yard was at the back with (say) a lift up flap to provide access).

 

Edit: just thought you could have a reversing loop in 2ft in N gauge.  Lots of ways of providing return traffic.

 

Basically an excellent idea for an N gauge model.

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Ooh, righto. Plenty to think about.

 

The points will be manual, so no need for anything under the baseboard.

 

I'll have a think about how to hide battens in my scenery if you reckon that's the way to go.

 

Thanks for the quick reply!

 

Even if no point motors, probably better to leave a bit of space below the baseboard for wiring.

 

You won't want square corners on your backscene anyway. So you can hide battens behind curved card backscene.

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Even if no point motors, probably better to leave a bit of space below the baseboard for wiring.

 

You won't want square corners on your backscene anyway. So you can hide battens behind curved card backscene.

Good point, though I'm hoping to disguise the corners as much as possible with tall mill buildings.

 

I think more SketchUp is needed.

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Think I'm getting there. I've moved and shrunk the ends so they fit inside the square rather than capping the outside end of it, as it'll help to support the top/front.

 

The next difficulty is actually cutting the boards, as I don't have the facility to do it myself anymore and so will have to rely on the in-store cutting service at my local B&Q.

 

It should only need seven cuts though to get all six sides from a 4'x2' sheet. Hopefully they'd do it for free?

 

I have toyed with the idea of getting it laser-cut so I could have proper joints at the corners and so reduce the need for battens, but it seemsm like unnecessary expense.

Edited by SquireBev
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I used APA style boxes for my layout: They're available on ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WOODEN-TOY-STORAGE-UNIT-BOX-CHILDRENS-KIDS-TOYS-CHEST-UNPAINTED-PERSONALISATION-/161969839530?var=&epid=1855584464&hash=item25b6279daa:m:mbVc5MYVxiUUweynv46e1VQ

 

I've used 3 on my Swiss layout, and will use 3 on my planned American HO, as I can store them in the spare wardrobe when not in use.

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