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millerhillboy
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Guys

I'm an N gauge modeller in essence but have always been taken by the improved subtlety of 2mm, in particular the peco code 55 track never mind code 80 has never came close to satisfying my eye whilst 2mm track really really looks so much better.

 

However due to a largish collection of rolling stock full blown conversion to 2mm does not interest me however I definitely am interested in utilising anything from the 2mm catalogue and as such I joined the 2mm society last week ans I intend to use what I can where I can.

 

My first area of interest is track and given I'm not going full 2mm I decided that the N scale finetrax solution would be my prefered way forward.

I then found out about the 2mm brass sleepers which I saw used as a point for adding droppers and to me looked extremely neat.

 

So onto my questions.

 

So would it be true to say that it will be OK to use the 2mm brass sleeepers, gapped appropriately with finetrax code 40 rail.

 

If so what should I use to gap the sleeper, I see the society sells 0.4mm cutting files. They sound like the right thing for the job.

 

Finally I've seen people using dress making pin of sorts out through a hole in the brass sleeper. I presume the thing is to drill a small hole, drop the pin through, seal it in with solder and then file flat. Then attach wires to the end of the dressmaking pin that pops through the other side of the baseboard.

 

Thanks in advance for any help you guys can offer.

 

Thanks

MHB

Edited by millerhillboy
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Why not just use a normal hacksaw to cut the brass sleeper  or a razor saw. you can cut it before laying and using the Finetrack or Easitrac (depending on whether N or 2mm track is wanted) either side they will hold it to gauge. You do need to be a member to purchase items but there is a lot of useful stuff available. 

 

Don

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Why not just use a normal hacksaw to cut the brass sleeper  or a razor saw. you can cut it before laying and using the Finetrack or Easitrac (depending on whether N or 2mm track is wanted) either side they will hold it to gauge. You do need to be a member to purchase items but there is a lot of useful stuff available. 

 

Don

I do have a fine razor saw, so basically cut the brass sleeper with that and then put the other half of the sleeper as a plastic finetrax/easitrac piece? I didnt think of that. I had seen pictures of a full brass sleeper with a gap cut down the centre.

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Do I need to solder the rail into the brass sleeper chair to ensure electrical connectivity.

 

Yes - you need as good a connection as possible. Rather than the dressmaker's pin method (which will work fine but does sound a bit fiddly), you could solder a dropper wire to the webbing either side of the sleeper. It'll be hidden by the ballast once you've laid the track.

 

Andy

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Is there webbing on the brass sleepers, i thought they were just single sleepers?

 

Pictures I ve seen seem to show single sleepers?

 

Edit : are you meaning like this?

 

post-81-0-01503100-1508277502.jpg

 

Thanks for your replies everyone, much appreciated.

Edited by millerhillboy
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So should I use a brass sleeper either side of the gap, seems like that might increase the prospect of a short. All uses of the brass sleeper I've seen online show it being used like this but to me it would seem more sensible to cut a brass sleeper in half and and easitrac/finetrax sleeper for the other half thus making it bit more safe, although I'm guessing once gapped and glued the chance of a short are next to nothing.

 

Do you fill the gap with something as well, filler or something.

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Is there webbing on the brass sleepers, i thought they were just single sleepers?

 

Pictures I ve seen seem to show single sleepers?

 

Edit : are you meaning like this?

 

attachicon.gifblogentry-7014-12637173807689_thumb.jpg

 

Thanks for your replies everyone, much appreciated.

 

Yes, that's it. The brass sleepers come as 2 panels of 6 sleepers - click on the photo icon next to 1-179 here to see what they look like.

 

I'd use half a brass sleeper with a plastic sleeper cut down to fit opposite - less chance of a short and a smaller gap to fill too.

 

Andy

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Thanks to all for your helpful replies, I've got a good idea how to progress.

 

Now I just need to suss out soldering at such a small scale having never done it before, but I'm keen to try some other etches particuarly buffer stops so I'll really need to get up to speed.

 

Thanks again guys, genuinely appreciated.

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