scots region Posted November 5, 2017 Share Posted November 5, 2017 Hmm, I just mark both ends and use a deep razor saw as levelly as I can. What saw are you using? An Xacto, same as you, I'm probably just not very good at it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 5, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 5, 2017 One of these? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scots region Posted November 5, 2017 Share Posted November 5, 2017 One of these? Yes thats the one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 5, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 5, 2017 Hmm. When I glue them back together I use poly cement, thankfully the plastic used in the cheap locos from both Hornby and Bachmann seems to be absorbent of the stuff and they weld together well (the GBL models do not and need cyanoacrylate to get them to stick). When they are tacky they can be pushed together to help the bond. I then use green stuff putty applied with the handle of the tweezers like a trowel, sand it, then spray with filler primer to reveal any holes, sand and fill and spray as necessary. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 5, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 5, 2017 The glue 'n glaze is drying in the windows and I've re-mounted the cylinders enabling the body to be lower. I like the low, hunkered-down look of it now. It's gained a whistle, still needs a lubricator. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 7, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 7, 2017 After a coat of klear, and of matt lacquer, I applied some weathering. Mostly a smoke powder wash, with some dark earth around the smokebox door to give the impression of it being burned.A lot of people commented on the livery being similar to 16 (a Hunslet Austerity featured in one of the Railway Series stories), so I've numbered it as a homage to that character. Overall I'm pleased with this, still some bits and bobs to do (motion bracket and lubricator, for example). For a simple bodge of some Junior locos purely to scratch an itch, I think it's turned out well. My biggest gripe is I messed up the cab when I cut it down, if you look at it end-on, the edge of the roof is lower on one side. I should have spotted this at the primer stage but didn't pick up on it. From a side-on or three-quarter view it's fine, so not the end of the world. 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 9, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 9, 2017 I slapped some Klear on to seal the weathering and ended up removing a lot! So I applied some more last night before using the wet cotton bud to clean it up a bit. There's a loco under there somewhere.... A lot of photos of industrial locos show the tank having been overfilled and the water contrasting with the grubby loco. I tried using some glue 'n glaze applied with a brush to give this effect. 9 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 I was a bit dubious about this when you started but it's turned out quite good in the end. Just one thing though - there appears to be a gap between the front bufferbeam and the cylinders. Perhaps you ought to put some filler pieces in the frame to make it look more solid? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 9, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 9, 2017 Thanks Dave! Yes you are right, I need to extend the frames so they go all the way to the bufferbeams. I did the same on the 'Lambtonesque' 0-6-2T and it made a huge difference. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gpplumy Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 Which numbers did you use may u ask corbs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 9, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 9, 2017 They are from Fox Transfers sheet FG 1023 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 25, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 25, 2017 No.16 posed alongside SCC No.3, showing the dummy motion brackets. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNWR18901910 Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 No.16 posed alongside SCC No.3, showing the dummy motion brackets. fullsizeoutput_26ab.jpeg fullsizeoutput_26ac.jpeg SCC - Sodor Clay Company, right? Also, nice model. Could we please see a video of it in action? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 26, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 26, 2017 SCC - Sodor Clay Company, right? Also, nice model. Could we please see a video of it in action I had an RC receiver wired in that wasn't behaving itself so I've sent it back to Micron who will hopefully send me a new one Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNWR18901910 Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 I had an RC receiver wired in that wasn't behaving itself so I've sent it back to Micron who will hopefully send me a new one I'm sure they will. Also, how goes your James model? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 27, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 27, 2017 Still in imagination land 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNWR18901910 Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 Still in imagination land I see. Why not use the Bachmann J11 and perhaps swap the wheels around as well as the tender? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 27, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 27, 2017 (edited) Because it would be a J11 instead of a 3F which is what I want. It's not really relevant to this thread or section, not being an industrial loco Edited November 27, 2017 by Corbs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNWR18901910 Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 Because it would be a J11 instead of a 3F which is what I want. It's not really relevant to this thread or section, not being an industrial loco Sorry - I was only trying to help you and it was a thought. The J11 is roughly the closest you'd get to the L&YR Class 28, James' basis (that's what Gavin/Kunckles told me). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 27, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 27, 2017 Yes but mine is not a L&Y 28, it's a standard 3F 0-6-0 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNWR18901910 Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 Yes but mine is not a L&Y 28, it's a standard 3F 0-6-0 Yes, I know, but I personally felt that using the 3F was what Hornby do with their James model, so I tried to be different and use something that's loco-driven and not tender-driven. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 27, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 27, 2017 ok Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNWR18901910 Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 ok If you like, I could show you my Henry model, an early one I did. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 28, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 28, 2017 I'm subscribed to your loco thread so if you put pics up I will see it I would like to keep this one about my YEC loco. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted December 5, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 5, 2017 (edited) Here we are part way through installing the RC system in the YEC loco. The charging port has been glued in just behind the cab steps. I've run out of slide switches, some will hopefully arrive Wednesday. I've left the leads deliberately long during this process so I can figure out how it all fits together. What I may do is add a plug so that the Rx and battery are both mounted in the body permanently, and I can unplug the motor and chassis. There's also a tight spot in the chassis which needs sorting, possibly the wheels are slightly out of quarter. Edited December 5, 2017 by Corbs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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