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Corbs

00 Yorkshire Engine Co. 0-6-0ST Build/Bash

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Here we are part way through installing the RC system in the YEC loco. The charging port has been glued in just behind the cab steps.

I've run out of slide switches, some will hopefully arrive Wednesday. I've left the leads deliberately long during this process so I can figure out how it all fits together. What I may do is add a plug so that the Rx and battery are both mounted in the body permanently, and I can unplug the motor and chassis.

There's also a tight spot in the chassis which needs sorting, possibly the wheels are slightly out of quarter.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_3481.JPG

Good luck with all that. I hope you'll get it working, soon.

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Getting this thing to work has been a headache.

So much hassle mounting the on/off switch, rough handling causing bits to break which then needed fixing, then the switch failing and having to be torn out again and re-done, then clearance issues.
It was binding really badly when first fired up. I've adjusted the quartering a bit but it's still happening. I've not really done quartering before, I think with Portbury I managed to get it bob-on but this is difficult.

You can see it binding in the video.

 

EDIT think I answered my own question. Swapped the wheels onto a spare DC chassis and bunged it in and it runs much more like Portbury. May just take out the RC gear on this one now as it actually doesn't run too badly. Coming round to the idea that RC may be better to design in from the beginning.

Then again, I could get a rolling road and let the DC bed the wheels in, then swap them back onto the RC chassis.

Edited by Corbs

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Getting this thing to work has been a headache.

So much hassle mounting the on/off switch, rough handling causing bits to break which then needed fixing, then the switch failing and having to be torn out again and re-done, then clearance issues.

It was binding really badly when first fired up. I've adjusted the quartering a bit but it's still happening. I've not really done quartering before, I think with Portbury I managed to get it bob-on but this is difficult.

You can see it binding in the video.

 

EDIT think I answered my own question. Swapped the wheels onto a spare DC chassis and bunged it in and it runs much more like Portbury. May just take out the RC gear on this one now as it actually doesn't run too badly. Coming round to the idea that RC may be better to design in from the beginning.

Then again, I could get a rolling road and let the DC bed the wheels in, then swap them back onto the RC chassis.

Marvellous demonstration video! I didn't know you had a YouTube channel.

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Here we are, advice sought.

 

On the rolling road the rocking is evident. Could this be something as silly as the wheels not being square on the axles? I am a complete novice when it comes to chassis etc., is there a jig one can use to ensure good quartering and square-ness?

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Here we are, advice sought.

 

On the rolling road the rocking is evident. Could this be something as silly as the wheels not being square on the axles? I am a complete novice when it comes to chassis etc., is there a jig one can use to ensure good quartering and square-ness?

GW models make a quartering jig. I've not used it but their rivet press is excellent. Having said that if the crankpins on one side are all at 6 O' clock and those at the other are all at 9 or 3 then you are not far out. Can the wheels be adjusted with a bit of force or are the axles splined? The binding doesn't look too bad in the video -You could check there's a little bit of slop where the rods fit over the crankpins, and open out the holes slightly if there isn't. Otherwise some serious running in on wander leads perhaps and a touch of light oil on the crankpins can help too. The rocking could be either a wheel not quite square, which should be tweakable, or a wheel not quite concentric which is not, though if there's some slop in the chassis it wouldn't be the end of the world. If you run it upside-down, then it will be apparent if one of the wheels isn't quite square on the axle.

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Thank you very much for the advice. The wheels aren't splined, just have a plastic collar in between, so they can be moved with some force. I'll have a look at the wheels as the model lifts out of the rollers slightly, which could suggest a wheel isn't square?

I'll have a look into the GW Models press and oil/run in as you suggest, thank you.

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Good luck with it - it's a great looking model. I think if it's lifting out of the rollers then maybe one of the wheels isn't as round as it could be. This wouldn't be a disaster as long as it doesn't stall (which presumably isn't an issue with R/C??) and as long as it doesn't derail. However if you can get another wheel then even better!

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Yes, pickup's not a problem on RC, but with the RC chassis installed (same wheelset) it causes the lurching, un-smooth movement. As the battery can only deliver 3.7v max it's a lot slower, so the lurching causes the loco to almost stop dead.

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I'll have a look into the GW Models press and oil/run in as you suggest, thank you.

The GW press only really works for fitting wheels freshly onto a 1/8th" axle.  Wheels that are already fitted to an axle would have to be (at least partly) removed and re-fitted.

Edited by 5050

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Here we are, advice sought.

 

On the rolling road the rocking is evident. Could this be something as silly as the wheels not being square on the axles? I am a complete novice when it comes to chassis etc., is there a jig one can use to ensure good quartering and square-ness?

What a lovely little tank engine you've done there, Sir! May I say, what a great and marvellous runner it is, too!

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That's kind of you to say, although the video was supposed to show how it wasn't running well ;)

 

I've been tweaking the quartering as well as the back to backs a lot and it's much better.

 

I made this video for a bit of fun. It's shot at 50fps and played back at 25fps (half speed) to give smoother motion, and the sounds were pinched from YouTube (so it's here as an Unlisted video for RMWebbers only)

 

Edited by Corbs

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Hello Corbs. This is a very long shot, and it may or may not make any difference, but the cylinders look steeply inclined to me. If it is possible to re-align them, try to angle them so that an imaginary line drawn back along the centre line of the cylinders passes through the centre line of the middle driving wheels.

 

May I say I am thoroughly enjoying all your highly imaginative threads, and wish you the very best of luck.

 

-Al.

Edited by Tiptonian

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I think you may be right, they look too steep (although I don't think it affects the running as it still binds with the connecting rods disconnected). They need some fernaggling to get the right angle.

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Mucking about with an app on my phone which can create some interesting effects.

 

post-898-0-62571500-1516792443.gif

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It is called Werble 

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It's actually cocaine. In hindsight not the cheapest method of producing model snow, but it was all I had to hand at the time.

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Hi Corbs

What a great loco! It really captures the look of the of the class, very handsome!

Its inspired me to use your method and build a very similar loco, if you don't mind, can I ask by how much you reduced the length of the tank? Do you have any advice for constructing the cab?

Thanks

Rhys

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Posted (edited)

Hiya,

 

Thanks! If I'm honest I didn't measure anything, I just eyeballed the whole thing, so it's not dimensionally accurate at all, but proportionally it kind of works out.

 

If I did it again, I'd make the cab out of styrene sheet rather than the massive cut and shut it is, it would be much easier to measure and draw it out to the right size and shape than trying to sculpt plastic and filler as much as I did, though the reason I did it was that I found it hard to picture the shape without a guide.

 

Bear in mind that the first tank I did was cut down in height, but you don't need to do that, it's fine as it comes height-wise.

If you have the LNER version you may be able to work out how much I chopped out from this pic?

IMG_2923.JPG

Edited by Corbs
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As mentioned elsewhere, I re-converted this to BPRC, having apparently solved the quartering issue some time this year and forgetting I had done it.

I had abandoned the RC gear inside the loco when converting it to DC, but the battery and receiver were fine.

The on/off switch had become locked solid with superglue, so it was replaced with a new one, this time set back into the body to avoid it fouling the wheels.

The cylinders need repositioning to prevent the crosshead contacting the rods when rounding certain corners, and it's a little bit juddery, but overall works ok.

 

It's now been assigned to the Barrow Hematite Steel Co. as their No.16.

 

 

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Finally sorted out the chimney, by using a resin copy of a Caley Coaches one, that was then cut down a little in height. It's at last the same height as the top of the dome, the discrepancy was really bothering me.

 

1BE903F8-88CD-473E-9357-F07F75AA2218.jpg.5d849b40a6e6d9a58b57401b9d20f8b7.jpg

Edited by Corbs
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