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Brightsparks Workbench thread- DJH S15


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Before moving onto the loco body…

 

I’ll make it clear now that I am a little way ahead of the write-up. Although not too far as I have hit a few snags and have had to backtrack. However, in the background of the shots above you may have seen glimpses of the rest of the model.

So here she is, more or less, at the present moment.

 

20200310_220621.jpg.3effda575d57237b0704a2beb6d9e74f.jpg

While catching up with the various and wonderful entries on this forum, I saw that just above my last posting was DLT’s Southern Locos thread. He has thoughtfully created an index on page 1 where  he lists his build of the DJH S15 that he completed some 10 years ago.

 

Page 3 – 6:  S15 - DJH: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/&do=findComment&comment=190723

 

I would like to compliment DLT on the neatness of his work and his solutions to some of the problems inherent in this DJH kit.

 

DLT’s construction varies from mine in that his brief is to build the kit as far as possible straight from the box and not get hung up on too many of the inaccuracies of the kit. He was also building to OO gauge which can have some advantages with white metal. He was also building a later version of the kit with the more advanced chassis.

post-5825-128079048843_thumb1.jpg.5bcd5047bfb537bebf0168bf79f12305.jpg

 

Above is the chassis DLT got, below is the more basic version in the kit that I got. Note the edge meat for the driving wheel axles.

 

 

So that covers the deviation of the chassis.  The tender he left to the intended length and replaced with Hornby N15 bogies. I shall report on my solution later describing my use of the original castings, but I warn you now that it is not as neat.

 

20200324_200139.jpg

Edited by brightspark
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Hi Blandford,

Thanks.

It's a new cab. 

 

Here is a close up of mine and the original (copied from DLT's loco build thread).

20200310_220712.jpg.99fe14ae03212c78eb1c984f7516f334.jpg

 

post-5825-009248300201286639439_thumb1.jpg.15f4d6f525a0f05db620bc986651d5b3.jpg

 

Note that I have made the cabside cut-out smaller to match the tender. The lower part of the handrail will be added later. The boiler and cab are just resting on the footplate so the gap between them will disappear eventually.

I have relocated the wonky washout plug since the photo was taken.

The rivets are also a little uneven, but this doesn't look so bad when viewed at normal distance. (so long as that is in another room facing the opposite way with the lights turned off and reading a girly mag MRJ)

 

Hopefully having a sheet metal cab ups the game on a Chinese plastic conversion.

Edited by brightspark
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The Loco Body- Part 1 – The Cab

 

After examination of the prototype and reading the comments above, one could conclude that the parts supplied in this kit seem to provide a seemingly daunting amount of errors. But I believe that there is still some potential.

 

However, the cab was always going to be an issue. It’s one redeeming feature is that it will assemble without any trouble and you will get a cab shape that is approximate, just not the same shape that Mr Maunsell designed.

I know that some of you who read this are contemplating scratch building and wondering how to turn a piece of sheet metal into a say a loco cab.

 

For the benefit of that reader (and to see if I can write down a methodology that is coherent) I will describe my method and the issues I overcame.

 

How I did it.

 

The first thing to consider is what is really wrong with the cab provided in the kit. Apart from the wrong roof profile.

post-4587-0-07236800-1512943550_thumb1.jpg.0db140f0a3c121166eeaca2b8aeeda67.jpg

 

1.       As stated previously, the outside profile is wrong.

2.       The cab is a casting so is a bit thick at the ends. OK you can thin it down.

3.       That the lower edge of cut out on the side of the cab is not in line with the tender. 838 was one of the S15’s with a smaller cut out to match the profile.

4.       There was also a little bit of the casting was missing. But I could have filled that in.

 

The next thing to consider is what are the characteristics of the prototype. This is a case of comparing the drawings to photos of the prototype and playing spot the difference.

 

Always try to work from a photo of the actual prototype around the period that you are modelling. As you shall see 838 had some subtle changes in its life.

 

1.       The cab of the Maunsell S15 is an art deco design with a smooth flowing shape where the roof just rolls into the sides and is totally unlike the Edwardian cab of Urie that just looks dated when placed side by the side.

2.       There is also an overhang on the front of the cab that could be easily overlooked.

3.       As already mentioned, the lower edge of the cab cut-out must align with the tender.

4.       There is also the shape and position of the windows.

 

Before making the first cut, especially in your precious sheet of metal we must remember to

“MEASURE TWICE AND CUT ONCE”

This is a golden rule, stick to it and you find that you are the road to nirvana.

 

I found two “scaled” drawings of this variant of S15. The first is the reproduction of the official SR/BR weight diagram as in Russell. These are normally quite reliable and the drawings in his book are reproduced to almost to scale. I verified this by calculating known dimensions into 4mm scale and checking the drawing. These are very slightly undersize.

There is also a drawing by Beattie, copyright Railway Modeller, that appears in “Locomotives in Profile 4 Maunsell 4-6-0 King Arthur Class” by Peter Swift and published by Ian Alan. This drawing is slightly over size.

I also struck lucky with the Hornby website. As mentioned above, I printed off their low-resolution drawing and it came out at around 7mm scale. It’s not the exact variant of the Maunsell cab (it has the larger cut-out’s, but this is not an issue) I want but it does show detail not found on the other drawings.

The first thing to do is to then make a paper model to understand the shape and how it goes together. The cab front is easy, you photocopy one of the “scale” drawings and cut out the shape. The roof and sides become more interesting. To keeps that smooth flow, it seemed that the best approach would be to make the whole thing out of one piece of material.

This is where making a paper mock up or practice piece becomes a useful tool to have in your armoury. Because if you mess it up you can start again.  What makes this hard is that you have 3 curves to work out.

I did actually consider if it is practical to actually make the cab and perhaps the whole superstructure out of paper. But that is for another day.

The sides are quite easy as they are flat. The harder part is the main roof and the even harder part are the tight radiused corners. The main part of the roof is easy, just roll your ruler along the edge to get the length. If you happen to know the radius and the angle of the roof pitch you could calculate it more accurately and the small corners. However, the trusty ruler works well for the flat sides and to some extent the main part of the roof. For the tight bends I did a bit of guesstimating. I found it easier to estimate the radius and remembering that Π (Pi – you thought that you left him back at school) is three and a bit you can take that radius and give a good estimate that because there is a third of a semicircle there the material you need is about one radius.

 

(Circumference of a circle is 2Πr, therefore circumference of half a circle or semi-circle is Πr and a third of that is r)

 

Marking out your shape, start at the centre line and work outwards. Then roll your paper to shape using the cab front as a former. Glue it together and see how it looks on the model.

20200119_191441.jpg.df2e48dfd502cf7c8e0f78f3d23ece07.jpg

 

20200119_191717.jpg.d7193f994091a45e85ed3685d6bb7803.jpg

The cab windows proved to be an area of difficulty that I had not anticipated as both drawings in Russell and by Beattie seem to place the windows in slightly different positions. Even on each side of the centre line on each drawing!

I did consider just folding up the outside of the cab and using the DJH cab front with a bit of filler on the corners and removing some material from the top. My thinking being that at least the thing is symmetrical. You may see this in the photo above.

 

It’s at this point that you wish that you could pop down to the Bluebell to measure the prototype.

It was here that I remembered the Hornby drawing and this seemed to show and accurate and symmetrical image and the proportions also seemed to match photos.

 

So, with all the dimensions worked out the cutting and forming of the sheet metal was the quickest part of the process.

The rivet detail is not as even as I would like and I wonder if I should invest in a GW riveting tool and if that would make a neater job.

 

Finally, the cab was soldered together to make a nice square box with the roof brace added and Alan Gibson boiler band strips soldered into the cut-outs. The window frames are 0,4mm wire bent to shape (then checked that they match as a pair) soldered into position and flattened with a file.

The rain strip was also some fine wire bent to shape and soldered on.

 

Hopefully I have the shape right and the windows the correct shape and in the correct position.

 

20200330_182357.jpg.f91176f4c976871cdba30bb18f918745.jpg

 

At the very least, I think that its an improvement on the DJH offering.

 

With the cab assembled it was time to consider the boiler and smokebox.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by brightspark
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The Loco Body – Part 2 – The boiler and smoke box.

 

I had been putting this off because as already discussed there is so much wrong and I wanted to have a clear plan as to how I was going to tackle this.

I had in mind several ideas that included rolling a new boiler and smoke box. In the end I found that I could retain the original casting with the advantage of the additional weight and detail of the whitemetal casting. However, some modification was still required.

 

The boiler length is correct if you fill up the area where the tab is. This I did with plastic strip and at the same time removed the cast boiler band.

 

By the way in reference to earlier posts, I did look at the SEF N15 boiler, actually I obtained a kit and was also given a half-assembled model. The boiler is the correct length but is still too thin. The other problem is that the N15 has a splasher and thus the SEF boiler has nothing below that line, so you would have to fill that with something.

 

The boiler will now fit flush up against the cab on a tab soldered to the front of the cab.

In the same manner as DLT I removed the base of the smoke box to get the smoke box height correct and to eliminate the gap between the underside of the boiler and the running board.

I then made three cuts on the boiler. The first is right behind the smoke box from the underside and upwards until the metal was weak enough for me to make a bend so that the boiler tilts upwards from the smoke box.

Then the second cut was made on the top of the boiler along side second boiler band (the one in front of the dome). Using the boiler band was helpful in making a straight cut but I later realised that it is in the wrong place and the bend should be further back and under the dome.

 

Both of these cuts only need to go just over halfway through the diameter of the casting.

 

The final cut was on the underside of the boiler along the centre line from the motor cut-out to the rear of the smoke box. I then pulled out the sides of the boiler so as the get the correct diameter over the firebox and running parallel to the aft cut and then moving forward to taper in to the rear of the smoke box.

 

I inserted plastic blocks into the cuts so that they held their position and then in the same manner as the tender glued in reinforcement strips on the inside and then used Milliput to fill the gap. Finally removing the moulded boiler band as I smoothed down the filler. These are replaced with Alan Gibson etched boiler bands where \I also corrected the position.

 

The firebox and footplate casting will need a bit of fettling as the former is now larger than the latter.

I did consider slotting open the smoke box but decided against it as the front of the boiler where it meets the smoke box is the correct diameter and keeping this whole ensured against the casting going oval when it was pulled out.

I suspect that DJH assumed that the boiler was parallel, where it has a slight taper.

To get over the undersize smokebox I made up a wrapper to the correct size and fitted it over the existing casting. There is a little step at the rear of the smoke box and I replicated this with one of the packing shims.

The front casting of the smokebox was shortened and glued into position. I glued a bit of Plastikard on top of the existing pimple that represents the front step. This comes out in the correct position and is quite prominent.

 

NOTE that the S15 smokebox is shorter than the N15. Which may explain why, in post 6, Horsetan thought that both the boiler and footplate were too short.

 

The handrail knob positions are in the wrong place and because I have changed the diameter of the boiler are at the wrong height. The old were filled and new holes drilled for the knobs. I fixed these into place and because there is no boiler lining, fitted the handrails. I also fitted the chimney, dome safety valves and whistle, after first checking and correcting their positions.

I also moved the washout plugs. These can be cut off with a sharp knife and reapplied with Araldite. Note that these are not directly opposite each other, DJH got this wrong as well. (sigh!)

 

So that is the main part of the body done.

20200119_191601_Burst01.jpg.f194fd819048ea54bdde83d8278238ca.jpg

Photo added - you may be able to make out the cuts and filler. 

Note that the slope on top of the boiler should start at the dome. 22-Dec-2023.

Edited by brightspark
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It was my mistake. I got a drawing, made new framed for EM compensated. It wouldn't fit under the footplate, which in my kit was very edge damaged. So I made a new one. Then the cab was wrong to the footplate I'd made. Boiler was then to short. So it went on. 

Valve gear was from memory just doubled up with nickel silver, so I could make forked joints. Made new slide bars as they are quite chunky. 

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A fellow member of SLAG is currently building a loco with forked joints. It looks a bit fiddly, but then he has similar views of compensation. 

I actually have the slidebars on the bench now having debonded (unglued) the cylinder assembly. 

The slidebars in the kit do look chunky but I wonder if it because we are used to seeing etches. I am thinking that the DJH supplied items are the correct width but just lack a rib running along it.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Testing my homebrewed chassis had proved to be somewhat troublesome and required much rework.

I found that all of the problems were associated with the front end of the model. This was due to a lack of attention my part.

I had taken great care to get the chassis square around the driving wheels, but,  had taken less care around the front end, mistakenly believing it to be just cosmetic. A bit of bending and light work with the soldering iron has hopefully sorted this out.

But it did indicate, with some hindsight, that there is not much room around the front bogie and that to get this loco to run right, you will need to keep your wits about you.

 

As usual, it seems with this type of loco, there were a few problems around the frame clearance of the bogie wheels.

But I getting alarmed at how much material I was removing as no matter what I did the wheels still touched.  I came to the conclusion that my method of supporting the bogie as part of the compensation system was the problem and needed reworking.

I had initially used the same method of mounting the front bogie as the Standard 5. That is a rubbing plate on the end of the compensating beam. Fixed onto the plate is the bogie pivot pin.

 

20191206_202345r.jpg.515ddfd5736a991db00e02f34dfea707.jpg

 

Unfortunately, there is a lot more movement on this model and this had the effect of allowing the bogie to move fore and aft as the beam pivoted around its axis.

The only solution was to have the pin fixed to the chassis and come to some other arrangement for the compensation beam.

The side control springs have been abandoned at the moment as all they do is cause derailments. I have, at the moment, just a spring link at the rear of the bogie. The effect of this, is to cause the front of the bogie to steer into the corner.

Although this seems to work, I would like a better solution. Again, DLT seems to have a good solution and might give this a go.

 

Hopefully the pictures below should show what is going on.

20200423_221753r.jpg.21d500d7af69c181b055eba36a9d6546.jpg

 

Assembled bogie. Note the U shape wire from the back of the bogie, going into a hole in the beam.

 

20200423_222007r.jpg.1ca4f72d1d82846bcb54d28d77320dbb.jpg

 

20200423_222025r.jpg.1a2e23ebee3d3f307d818ad41e336a90.jpg

 

I then moved onto the cylinders and J hangers (AKA slide-bar support brackets)

 

Iain Rice wrote in his Loco Chassis Construction book much about the DJH S15 and I was using this as guidance. He pointed out that there is an incline in the cylinders and that the J hanger was prominent. However, the photos of his finished model, show the cylinders horizontal and the J hangers omitted.

 

I was puzzled by this omission but then after offering up the cylinders in the horizontal realised that they don’t fit. They will only fit if you incline the cylinders to the correct angle.

That is by the way in direct line with the centre driving axle.

 

I reinforced the J hanger as DLT recommended in his thread. Oh, and the J hangers are positioned vertically and not perpendicular to the slide bars. I made that mistake and found that the rear bogie wheel fouls them.

 

 

[photo not recovered]

 

The cylinders are of interest.

 

On review I initially thought that DJH had got these wrong, by making them too long and so causing them to foul the rear bogie wheel by around 1,5mm or so.

I was also unhappy that they seemed to bind so I stripped them down by soaking them in Nitromors. This was a tip I found on this and other model railway forums. I took 48 hours to break down the thickest part of the araldite.

Before taking a file to them, I had a feeling that I was still wrong because somehow the cylinders in the photos of S15’s looked to be the same proportion as the DJH castings. But both the BR/SR weight diagram and the Beattie drawing showed them to be approximately 1.5mm shorter at the rear. This confirmed my thinking but created a conflict.

20200405_163829r.jpg.4cc455c19ae66f8abadb981bde8edb33.jpg

cleaned up cylinder casting on the Beattie drawing. Compare the position of the cylinder to photos of the real thing. 22-dec-2023.

 

It was study of the Hornby drawing and scaling of the photographs that revealed the true picture.

That is that the cylinders need to be 1.5mm further forward and clear of the rear bogie wheel and that the DJH cylinders are the correct length. It is the two 4mm drawings that are wrong!

Other people on these forums have also reported that they moved the cylinder forward, but I get the impression that this was more out of desperation rather than by measurement.

So, anyone reading this, these are the critical dimensions that I think you need.

20200422_185624.jpg.1a68f93a106aedaf7d705695980a1ac6.jpg

 

These photos show the correct measurements with the datum point marked 0-0 being the front of the main body of the cylinder.

 

[photos lost- but picture above has the dimensions. The cylinders are angled at 1 in 24]

 

Hopefully these make sense. 

Dimensions are 18mm to the front of the buffer beam,  3,3mm to the top of the outside edge of the top of the curve on the footplate. Other dimension to the right are for the position of the J hanger and the end of the slide bars.

 

I know that it was a rubbish datum and if was doing it again I would work from the buffer beam at STN-O. By the way the Centre line is to the bogie pivot.

As you can see there is an awful lot of filler and a little bit of reshaping of the top front of the cylinder block. The fouling seems to be caused by the thickness of the whitemetal running plate/footplate.

The rest of the filler is replicate the shape of the casing around the cylinder on the prototype.

And that brings you up to date.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by brightspark
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At last Black Paint!

 

I was in a bit of a panic on Friday as the last bit of Halfords primer splattered over the half painted boiler and I had no more and wondered if I could get more.

Saturday was spent rubbing back the blobs while waiting for a text from my local Halfords that my order was ready to collect. Ordering on line was easy and an hour so later I made way to the other end of Woking to get pick it up.

The counter has been moved to the door and they only operate a click and collect service. 

Honestly it is essential supplies, as it is for my sanity. 

It was also a lot easier that normal. What a great service.

 

So the model has been primed, rubbed back re-primed and coated in Mr Halfords finest black in both satin and gloss.

 

Buffer beams now red.

I had a lovely reversing wheel that I picked up at a show for 20p. I had it on the bench ready for painting the same colour, and then it was gone...!

 

Also- what colour is the inside of the cab?

I have a photo of a preserved S15 cab, where the interior is a sort of khaki brown/ sand. So I painted it with some Humbrol sand colour. 

But it would be nice to get some accurate information. Doe anyone know what colour this should be for 1960?

 

Andy

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Left Hand side Valve gear fitted.

1428549005_LHside2-5-2020.jpg.10f2fd1c3eb4adb091ed3e01fd72a03d.jpg

 

Right hand side yet to do.

 

The aim is to have it ready for the test track at ExpoEM Spring on 16th 17th May. (That has been cancelled)

Even though the event isn't on, it's still good to have a target.

So RH side valve gear, buffers and AJ to be fitted by then.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Today should have seen 30838 proving itself (or disgracing itself) around the EMGS test track at Bracknell. Sadly ExpoEM Spring has had to be cancelled. The furthest that she has run is on a couple of yards of test track. One straight and one curved.

I am currently pondering how she (and the other locos in my stock box) will cope with the B6 points sold by the society.

 

Anyway here is progress to date. This morning I made up the new smoke deflectors as the DJH ones are too long. 

They are fine for a King Arthur though. That is where people go wrong trying to convert King Arthurs to S15's as the latter is shorter. I think that DJH made the same mistake here. Or were they planning on doing an Arthur?

 

680618265_oldandnewsmokedeflectors.jpg.025e05df8589767538253d3d3fd41e04.jpg

DJH King Arthur on top and my home made S15 below.

 

Anyway its starting to come along now and beginning to look like an S15.

 

20200516_132451.jpg.5f9970ab68658b72f98ca52ab9017821.jpg20200516_132522.jpg.5b38ef5cc1951b0be30b9cea58b67930.jpg

Battery box yet to be fixed in place, hence it leaning over.

 

Next job - get these off to paint and...

 

 

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Thank you for the compliments.

 

Hi Adam, I still think that the Hornby model is going to be better and an easier route to a EM/P4 than the DJH.

Still how about a head to head with them on the test track sometime?

 

Meanwhile, back in the Batcave...

 

Sometime in the past 30 plus years since the kit left DJH, a few bits went missing. Including the footsteps.

There are eight altogether but I only had four, three of one hand and one of the other. Luckily a pair was still on a sprue.

 

20200517_174315.jpg.d90ba1a42fb8d6fd4ecade073e6642e9.jpg

 

So this week I made up a mould  and cast my self some replacements.

 

20200517_174320.jpg.a7217efa2a940b7d3e318929b6e53df5.jpg

 

They didn't all come out the mould as nice as I would have liked, I could have spent more time working on  getting the flow right, but I got enough reasonable casts for my needs. 

These I will then modify the various shape steps that the S15 had.

 

I have just glued them  on and I can now see why DJH added a bit of length to the tender, as the rear bogies doesn't clear the steps. As it goes around a four foot radius it is not an issue.

 

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I said in the previous post that the tender goes around a 4' radius without having to clear the swing of the bogie.

That statement was true as far as the tender goes, but when coupled to the loco, it became a different story.

First of all you can get the clearance by thinning the step. You may want to do this anyway as whitemetal castings are a bit thick.

The next problem was that the loco started to spin. I eventually tracked this down to a poor design of tender drawbar. 

The DJH design has a drawbar that is fixed to the leading bogie of the tender, so that it is part of the bogie. The drawbar being a solid arm projecting forward. This is intended to engage with a white metal pin on the rear drag bracket/ drawbar beam. 

I decide to adopt this as I wanted to close the gap between loco and tender and put in something a bit more robust than a whitemetal pin. So further inboard I have put a screw that retain a bearing. The drag beam is a 1mm steel bar doubled in width. A bent paperclip formed into a loop and bent back along its length with a loop to go around the loco bearing and glued to the bogie frame.

So the design was similar in that there was a fixed beam to the leading bogie, but the bearing on the loco was further forward.

The effect of a tight corner was that the arm, being in line with the bogie was pulling the loco sideways.

There seems to be two possible solutions.

The first is to make a new loop to go around the bearing but very wide so the arm would have a Tee end with an oblong hole.

The second, and the one I went with was to have a drawbar that had two loops, one at each end. The forward one engaging with the Loco bearing in the dragbox and the tender picking up on the pin locating the front bogie.

And it seems to work as the loco-tender assembly now seems much happier running around the 4'.

 

I was going to take a photo, but its too dark. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am now making progress on the chassis. Again following DLT's build notes, I have fitted brakes from the mainly trains SR loco etch onto the loco. I was not so successful on finding a suitable set of brake gear for the tender. But the tender fret does have something suitable for other projects. 

 

At the moment I am fitting the sandpipes. These route down the front of the J hanger in exactly the area that I had freed up for the rear bogie wheel. I'll glue it in and then work out later how I get the clearance.

 

20200605_211916.jpg.eadbcdd6b43ce5d865bcfe89a5959a9c.jpg

Around the rear of the loco, the area under the cab looks very empty. So I am making up some injectors and trying to work out what else is under there.

 

20200605_211937.jpg.4adfe3c7060c7d1d3ddd4df247d126ff.jpg

These are meant to represent the Dreadnought type that were being installed from the late 50's. 

 

The modification to fit these onto the prototype also included a new steam valve, located on top of the boiler, that was straight and involved re-routing the steam feed pipe in front of the rear handrail knob. 

The pipework under the footplate was also routed differently with a curve that ran closer to the cab. The older system had pipes running at a straight angle.

Going back to the injectors, I have been studying photos to try and work out what is happening behind the step. There may be another valve body as the overflow pipe appears at the rear of the step slightly higher than the injector outlet. 

Does anyone have any information?

It looks like the modifications affected both the S15's and the King Arthurs.

 

Edited by brightspark
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Some photos of progress so far...

 

20200607_5r.jpg.492a5cb776c376ce7f0ad1498e28a499.jpg

I am finding that this build is dragging on a bit. Each time I sit down at the bench, I am starting to wonder "how much longer will this take?". But I want to finish this one so I can move onto the other projects that are lined up.

 

Anyway, eyes down and here we go.

 

20200607-1r.jpg.41fc8b8aae84e2861463db9e8238a41e.jpg

Right hand side. It looks a lot better now that the transfers have been applied. Detail below the footplate is starting to be added. Brakes, sand pipes, sand cleaning pipe (on the tender) and the cylinder drain cocks.

20200607_2r.jpg.4a15a6e13f6f07e79c8b73d47efa7cbe.jpg

 

"I see ya baby...shakin' that ass..shakin' that ass...shakin' that ass...I see you baby..."

 

20200607_3r.jpg.4d7bfc97c48e5c9628a7706c4af481cc.jpg

Left hand side, showing the AWS battery box and the two holes in the cab side for access to the AWS equipment.

 

 

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3/4 front view. Note the AWS equipment, as well as the battery box on the running board, there is the plate under the front buffer beam and the box of gubbin's bolted onto the front of the cab.

I need to reattach the stowing hook for the front coupling and also the vac pipe, that seems to have fallen off.

 

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A close up of the left hand side. 

Still to add are the Injectors (currently in the mould), associated pipework and the other bits that live under the cab.

It looks like there is a bracket that holds cranks for the drain cocks and the earlier type of pipework that included a water heater for the tender.

Basic weathering at the moment, which is a splash with a dirty paint brush and thinners, done while cleaning out the brush. The more subtle weathering will follow.

 

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The nearside sand washer needs shortening as is it just resting on the rail. I just ran the loco up and down the test track and there was a satisfy screech when reversing.

I will also reattach the cab doors at some point.

Note the later type steam feeder valve on the top of the boiler.

Also to be added is a pipe that comes out of the firebox. It will emerge from the bit you can see through the oval cut-out. It look like a boiler drain pipe. Anyone know differently?

(The handrail is not running up hill. It is where I tried to straighten the photo and it's gone a bit funny)

 

Andy

 

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Edited by brightspark
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  • 2 weeks later...

I think that I have gone as far as I can with this for the moment.

So finished.

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Front 3/4 view.  I think that this looks about right.

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Close up of the Left hand side.

The injector fills the gap nicely. This is my interpretation of the Dreadnought Injector.

It been confirmed that the pipe coming out of the ashpan is the Boiler drain.

I have also cleaned a shiny bit on the reversing rod where it sits in it's guide.

 

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This is about the same sort of angle as the photo of 30834 at Basingstoke 18/08/1962. This photo is often used to shew the AWS. 

Head code also to be added. 

 

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Overview of cab and loaded tender.

Its difficult to judge how much coal there should be in the tender. One would imagine that when passing through Swaynton from London it would be empty while those heading north would be stacked. 

I have looked a few photos and the evidence to support this is unclear. So I have half filled the tender and had the fireman draw the coal forward. I noticed that in a lot of photos that the coal at the front has been broken down quite fine and that large lumps are staked at the back.

 

 

All there is to do is to add crew and add the weathering. 

Oh and it needs testing on the layout.

I didn't manage to fit brakes to the tender but I think that I have a lead on that so it may not yet be over.

 

So onto the next project...

Edited by brightspark
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  • 1 month later...

I hope you are pleased with this fine loco after the frankly colossal efforts and perseverance involved.

 

I've toyed for a while with trying to convert a Hornby one into the earlier Urie version with raised footplate over the cylinders ( I model simply in OO), your thread has certainly given me food for thought.

 

John.

Edited by John Tomlinson
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John,

 

I agree, a nice piece of work, well done.

 

Regarding the Urie version of the S15. As you probably know, DJH also make a version of this loco too. Look out for a secondhand version of the kit which is K46. I picked one up a month or two back (£110 included Markit wheels). It is fairly straitforward to build.

 

Good luck !

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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