doilum Posted March 14, 2019 Share Posted March 14, 2019 39 minutes ago, Corbs said: Doilum - thanks for sharing the shots of your model. In a way you almost followed Hunslet's own development path turning the 48150 into a 50550! Cheers. The purchase of the kits was timely as they are currently unavailable. Looking forward to someone doing a full conversion in 4mm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted March 14, 2019 Share Posted March 14, 2019 Has any one tried to obtain any 50550 drawings from Hunslet archives? I believe the plans are held in Leeds. Gordon A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted March 14, 2019 Share Posted March 14, 2019 30 minutes ago, Gordon A said: Has any one tried to obtain any 50550 drawings from Hunslet archives? I believe the plans are held in Leeds. Gordon A Apart from the satisfaction of finding and owning them, lack of drawings should not be an impediment to building an accurate model in the indoor scales. Full depth frames with correct sized wheels and new deep buffer beams can be redrawn from the austerity drawings. Add a sloping rear to the reduced bunker and rain strips to the cab roof and you are almost there. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted March 14, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 14, 2019 3 hours ago, Gordon A said: Has any one tried to obtain any 50550 drawings from Hunslet archives? I believe the plans are held in Leeds. Gordon A Hunslet drawings are at Statfold, they are very helpful, email the works number(s) you are looking for and they will tell you what they have. There's a GA or a pipe and rod diagram for most HE locos. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted March 19, 2019 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2019 No.3 now sporting the correct gib and cotter rods, many many thanks to Paul for making them up for me, I really appreciate it! Completes the look of the loco for me. 8 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted March 19, 2019 Share Posted March 19, 2019 Spot on. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
calvin Streeting Posted March 19, 2019 Share Posted March 19, 2019 love the private livery look... going to nick that idea.. but not the same livery.. just idea 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rope runner Posted March 20, 2019 Share Posted March 20, 2019 Glad to be of assistance, looks excellent Paul A. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 6, 2019 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 6, 2019 Hi chaps, been having a spot of bother with this loco. The coupling rods have much smaller holes than the Hornby originals and sit on top of the collar rather than around them. This means if I tighten the rod bolts down, the wheels can't turn, but if I back the bolts off, they soon unscrew and fall off. Has anyone else had this issue? I'm trying to work out a solution. I don't think reaming out the holes will work, because the size difference is quite a lot. Possibly I could use longer rod bolts, but can't find any for sale. Thanks in advance. Corbs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted November 6, 2019 Share Posted November 6, 2019 1 hour ago, Corbs said: Hi chaps, been having a spot of bother with this loco. The coupling rods have much smaller holes than the Hornby originals and sit on top of the collar rather than around them. This means if I tighten the rod bolts down, the wheels can't turn, but if I back the bolts off, they soon unscrew and fall off. Has anyone else had this issue? I'm trying to work out a solution. I don't think reaming out the holes will work, because the size difference is quite a lot. Possibly I could use longer rod bolts, but can't find any for sale. Thanks in advance. Corbs A drop of threadlok will allow you to leave a little play in the screw. If you need to remove the screw judicious use of a soldering iron will do the trick. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted November 7, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 7, 2019 12 hours ago, Corbs said: Hi chaps, been having a spot of bother with this loco. The coupling rods have much smaller holes than the Hornby originals and sit on top of the collar rather than around them. This means if I tighten the rod bolts down, the wheels can't turn, but if I back the bolts off, they soon unscrew and fall off. Has anyone else had this issue? I'm trying to work out a solution. I don't think reaming out the holes will work, because the size difference is quite a lot. Possibly I could use longer rod bolts, but can't find any for sale. Thanks in advance. Corbs A dab of nail varnish can stop this, but can be easily broken by unscrewing the nuts by gripping with a pair of pliers. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rope runner Posted November 8, 2019 Share Posted November 8, 2019 How much do they need to be opened out by? It may be time to invest in some small reamers, which are thoroughly useful. Paul A. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 13, 2019 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 13, 2019 I think it would be so much as to weaken the strength of the rods. The loco is coming back in to the works for conversion to RC soon , so can do the loctite at the same time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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