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Corbs

Hunslet 50550 from J94 Build/Bash

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39 minutes ago, Corbs said:

Doilum - thanks for sharing the shots of your model. In a way you almost followed Hunslet's own development path turning the 48150 into a 50550!

Cheers.  The purchase of the kits was timely as they are currently unavailable. Looking forward to someone doing a full conversion in 4mm.

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Has any one tried to obtain any 50550 drawings from Hunslet archives?

I believe the plans are held in Leeds.

 

Gordon A

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30 minutes ago, Gordon A said:

Has any one tried to obtain any 50550 drawings from Hunslet archives?

I believe the plans are held in Leeds.

 

Gordon A

Apart from the satisfaction of finding and owning them, lack of drawings should not be an impediment to building an accurate model in the indoor scales. Full depth frames with correct sized wheels and new deep buffer beams can be redrawn from the austerity drawings. Add a sloping rear to the reduced bunker and rain strips to the cab roof and you are almost there.

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3 hours ago, Gordon A said:

Has any one tried to obtain any 50550 drawings from Hunslet archives?

I believe the plans are held in Leeds.

 

Gordon A

Hunslet drawings are at Statfold, they are very helpful, email the works number(s) you are looking for and they will tell you what they have. There's a GA or a pipe and rod diagram for most HE  locos. 

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No.3 now sporting the correct gib and cotter rods, many many thanks to Paul for making them up for me, I really appreciate it! Completes the look of the loco for me.

 

UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_be08.jpg.c78dcbc993e885f79915da92b70c59d7.jpg

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Hi chaps, been having a spot of bother with this loco. The coupling rods have much smaller holes than the Hornby originals and sit on top of the collar rather than around them.

This means if I tighten the rod bolts down, the wheels can't turn, but if I back the bolts off, they soon unscrew and fall off. Has anyone else had this issue?

I'm trying to work out a solution. I don't think reaming out the holes will work, because the size difference is quite a lot. Possibly I could use longer rod bolts, but can't find any for sale.

Thanks in advance.

Corbs

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1 hour ago, Corbs said:

Hi chaps, been having a spot of bother with this loco. The coupling rods have much smaller holes than the Hornby originals and sit on top of the collar rather than around them.

This means if I tighten the rod bolts down, the wheels can't turn, but if I back the bolts off, they soon unscrew and fall off. Has anyone else had this issue?

I'm trying to work out a solution. I don't think reaming out the holes will work, because the size difference is quite a lot. Possibly I could use longer rod bolts, but can't find any for sale.

Thanks in advance.

Corbs

A drop of threadlok will allow you to leave a little play in the screw. If you need to remove the screw judicious use of a soldering iron will do the trick.

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12 hours ago, Corbs said:

Hi chaps, been having a spot of bother with this loco. The coupling rods have much smaller holes than the Hornby originals and sit on top of the collar rather than around them.

This means if I tighten the rod bolts down, the wheels can't turn, but if I back the bolts off, they soon unscrew and fall off. Has anyone else had this issue?

I'm trying to work out a solution. I don't think reaming out the holes will work, because the size difference is quite a lot. Possibly I could use longer rod bolts, but can't find any for sale.

Thanks in advance.

Corbs

A dab of nail varnish can stop this, but can be easily broken by unscrewing the nuts by gripping with a pair of pliers.

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How much do they need to be opened out by? It may be time to invest in some small reamers, which are thoroughly useful. 

Paul A. 

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I think it would be so much as to weaken the strength of the rods. The loco is coming back in to the works for conversion to RC soon , so can do the loctite at the same time.

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