Does track go dead over time.

[locomad]

Interesting topic I remember well my teenage layout quite a large Hornby-dublo 2 rail using such track very much like set track, each section had a fishplate attached permanently, which fitted into the next section.

 

I found recently a track diagram and quite surprised the number of what I called " jumpers" I had to fit over the years, short bits of copper wire to carry current round fishplates where the fishplates had failed to carry current. The layout lasted about 25 years so over time these fishplates failed I reckon now due to oxidation & dirt squeezing ends did help but only for a short while.

 

Using streamline the fishplates can be slid slightly if a fault developer while set-track cannot, having now got into 3 rail I've noticed no problems but there again I'am just using temporary track so assume by constantly joining and undoing track the insides are getting cleaned. Also using 3 foot sections of track you use less fishplates

 

So maybe track does go dead over time

[crazynitwit]

Interesting topic I remember well my teenage layout quite a large Hornby-dublo 2 rail using such track very much like set track, each section had a fishplate attached permanently, which fitted into the next section.

I found recently a track diagram and quite surprised the number of what I called " jumpers" I had to fit over the years, short bits of copper wire to carry current round fishplates where the fishplates had failed to carry current. The layout lasted about 25 years so over time these fishplates failed I reckon now due to oxidation & dirt squeezing ends did help but only for a short while.

Using streamline the fishplates can be slid slightly if a fault developer while set-track cannot, having now got into 3 rail I've noticed no problems but there again I'am just using temporary track so assume by constantly joining and undoing track the insides are getting cleaned. Also using 3 foot sections of track you use less fishplates

So maybe track does go dead over time

ye that's pretty much what I thought I found out in the end tho that it was just a dodgy piece of track so I've bought a new piece.

[DCMarvel]

Never known an old layout go dead, If it works well when new it continues to work for years. If you do a good job with soldering on the power supply droppers, they shouldn't fail. A quick track cleaner rub should have it as good as new in minutes.

[melmerby]

Never known an old layout go dead, If it works well when new it continues to work for years. If you do a good job with soldering on the power supply droppers, they shouldn't fail. A quick track cleaner rub should have it as good as new in minutes.

 

Lucky.

 

Yes track can go "dead"

Years ago I had a loft layout using Peco code 100 and insulfrog points. It was simple DC control

 

I laid it on chipboard and the track was pinned down and relied on Peco's joiners. There was only one feed per track section. (soldered to the rails)

After a period of time the track furthest from the feed (maybe 20 feet) was near as dammit dead.

I concluded the constant expansion/contraction moving the joiners had allowed oxidisation/dirt and I had to provide some extra droppers to feed the furthest tracks.

 

Now I have a similar size layout but with DCC and I made sure every track had a feed and not to rely on joiners - 100% reliable.

 

DC or DCC, both need reliable feeds, don't rely on the joiners.

 

Keith

Edited November 18, 2017 by melmerby

[The Johnster]

This is similar to my ultimately doomed teenage attic layout, which suffered from being in an attic converted for railway use by my dad, who thought he could do as good a job as any professional builder.  He couldn't.  The temperature variations were between outside ambient freezing in winter to full bake in the summer, and expansion and contraction literally tore the layout to bits, then mice got in, shat in the tunnels, and chewed the cables.

 

I have ever since made it a principle to not bother with a railway unless it can be housed in the heated and ventilated living area of the home.  The only layouts on which I have ever employed soldered droppers are exhibition layouts built to a club standard that required them; apart from that if your layout is in a reasonably conducive temperature controlled environment there is no need and I have have had very little trouble with track joiners.  I do solder my power feeds, as I find vibration eventually always loosens screw or clamp fixings, and crimping is only ever any use as a temporary solution.  Track joiners, painted over and sealed in position so that dirt or damp, which is the prime cause of oxidisation (rust), cannot get in, seem to work fine for me, but it is vital to ensure smooth and level track connection, or you are asking them to do a job they are not designed for.

[manna]

G'Day Folks

 

I'm in the  process of ballasting my layout, it's been working very well for about seven years, as soon as I've ballasted the track, Bang, dead track, finally worked out it was the PVA glue getting into the fishplate's and making a very effective insulator, a few minutes with a multi meter and a screwdriver, quickly got everything working again.

 

manna

[kevinlms]

G'Day Folks

 

I'm in the  process of ballasting my layout, it's been working very well for about seven years, as soon as I've ballasted the track, Bang, dead track, finally worked out it was the PVA glue getting into the fishplate's and making a very effective insulator, a few minutes with a multi meter and a screwdriver, quickly got everything working again.

 

manna

Yes, that is why relying on rail joiners is a bad idea! That PVA stuff gets in everywhere and its best to have wired alternative electrical paths.