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TFW’s workshop


CF MRC
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I was looking forward to making the tender filler and water scoop gear boxes for Valour and they didn’t take too long to put together.  A few hacks into a lump of brass and some filing produced the quite complicated shape of the boxes and the rounded filler.

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The lids were made by sweating the brass to some 5 thou N/S sheet and then filing this just about back to the brass, leaving a lip behind. 
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The hinges and joints were made by scribing the top with a scalpel.  The handles were made by drilling a 0.3mm hole, soldering a shirt length of brass into it and then squeezing the round brass in the vice to flatten it.  The shape of the handle was then filed into the remaining material. 
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It all begins to make the tender look more businesslike.

 

Tim

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More progress on Valour, although maybe not immediately obvious from the previous overall shots. Steps on the engine & tender, water filler details on the tender and 22 x 0.3/0.5mm diameter holes in the boiler for washout plugs, handrail stanchions & mud hole doors. 
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I had one drill ‘separate’ (as endodontists call it) - maybe you can spot where?

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The boiler barrel was wrapped in some micro mesh abrasive cloth to hold it in the vice for drilling and avoid any marks from the jaws.  The TC drills are very sharp but need coolant (Rocol RTD - visible over the cross mark). 
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The tender top is now soldered on, but with it tightly in place, I needed to make a bit more room for the brass stay alive, with some modification to the coal cover.  Maybe buffers next. 
 

Tim

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9 hours ago, CF MRC said:

I had one drill ‘separate’ (as endodontists call it) - maybe you can spot where?

Second handrail knob from the left.  :declare:

Were you able to retrieve the broken part?   If not, will you still be able to achieve an apical seal, or will it require a retrograde filling?  :laugh:

 

Jim

 

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Valour now has the washout the plugs on one side of the firebox and some oval holes for the mud hole doors.   I have also represented an inspection hatch on the reversing gear with a bit of filing. 
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The front buffers were turned from some 15A plug brass (off an old Hornby Dublo controller that my son found).  They were parted off with a slitting file and the drill shank reversed and ‘up the hole’.   That way they do not fly off into outer space. 
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The same drill shank was used to help align the buffer stocks in the beam, whilst soldering into place.  Drill shanks will not accept normal soft solder.

589803A0-9982-48D6-B4A7-B19707CD289C_zps

 

The buffers were turned, oversize,  from steel and then filed top and bottom to make oval, using the slot in the collet as a guide (a pin chuck would also serve).   Remember to use a safe edged file!
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The over-thick top & bottom of the buffer heads were reduced by using abrasive points in the mini drill.

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Finally finished off with some micro mesh polishing cloth.

96C82BD2-E721-4380-AB7B-14B11A83D1D4_zps

 

Tim

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There are little steps on the buffer stops which are quite conspicuous and give them a bit of mass.  Putting the buffer steps on was easier than expected.  The step and stock were tinned and then the two held together with titanium tweezers. Quick flash with iron

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 and hey presto!

 

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The two small steps have subsequently been cured of droopiness btw. 

Tim

 

 

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Haven’t used plain eyesight for 20 years in loco building.  I use surgical telescopes (loupes) at 2.8 magnification with co-axial LED lighting.   They are very high quality but there are loads of cheaper versions out there - some are quite good.  

 

I can see with my reading glasses, but not do fine model making; I have only needed them for the last five years (I’m 64).  My left eye had a retinal operation and lens replacement last January which means that vertical lines are sometimes a bit wonky.  So I think twice, cut once & keep checking.  I also use my photos to check how things are looking - hence these posts. 
 

Tim

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The mud hole doors have been made by chain drilling five oval holes with a 0.5mm diameter drill on the shoulders of the firebox. 

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The covers were made up from a squeezed bit of brass rod.

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The cut off squeezed pieces were pushed into the holes and a small piece of multi core solder placed over the top of each. 

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The back of the firebox was slowly brought up to heat with a blow torch with a splash of acid flux to help the flow. 

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After knocking the corners off with a file and polishing, the mud hole doors finish off the firebox sides. 

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She’s looking awfully empty on top. 

 

Tim

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Tim,

 

The photos are very good, with what do you take them please? Sorry if this has already been explained earlier in the thread.

 

Regards,

Ian.

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Thanks Tim,

 

I've just got an iphone (2nd hand from the wife) ....I'll consult my technical assisstant (daughter) and see what we can come up with! It's about time that I started photographing things to post. Whilst I build mainly in 3mm I find the work that you 2mm chaps do quite inspiring and it never fails to impress me, I follow more 2mm threads than anything else. Looking forward to seeing the rest of Valour's build.

 

Many thanks,

Ian.

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It’s been a bit of a slow job over the last couple of days making the hinge for the smokebox door. This was filed up from 10 thou steel sheet.  It took three goes to get the shape right and the hinge pin correct.  
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I have also roughed out the smokebox dart and wheel.  This has a temporary LNWR five spoke wheel - it should be four spoke - from an etched brass Jumbo kit: it is clearly the wrong colour.  Incidentally, anyone interested in the loco & tender kit, let me know as it is not an engine I will be making.  Nigel Hunt has kindly offered me a nickel silver wheel which should look better.  However, I might have a go at making my own four spoke wheel in steel

 

Tim

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Does anyone know who would be best to contact to get some cab number plates made for Valour?  

Also anyone interested in the Jumbo 2-4-0 loco & tender kit? I also have another set of etchings for the B3.

 

Tim

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The smokebox hand wheel was made by drilling five 0.3mm diameter holes within a 1.5mm diameter circle in 0.26mm thick steel. 
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The circumference of the wheel was then filed into the steel. 
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An 08 NiTi K flex endodontic file was used to improve the shape of the holes.

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The wheel was then soldered onto the dart in front of an etched 2mm handrail knob, acting as the other hand (a jolly clever idea from Nick Mitchell)

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I think the end result looks more restrained than the five spoke wheel.  The handrails will finish off the smokebox, but I think my eyes need a rest, even though I was wearing 3.8x loupes for this job. 

Tim

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6 hours ago, CF MRC said:

Does anyone know who would be best to contact to get some cab number plates made for Valour?  

Also anyone interested in the Jumbo 2-4-0 loco & tender kit? I also have another set of etchings for the B3.

 

Tim

I’d like the Jumbo kit. It will go well with the Coal Tank I have. What would you like for it?

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